Latest reviews by herrylaw

Tom's Kitchen

herrylaw — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 10:36:19 +0000

Rating: 3.2

Location: 27 Cale Street, SW3 3QP, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7349 0202

Website: http://www.tomskitchen.co.uk

Tags: lively, british, crowded, expensive, french

Pricey trendy noisy - but good!Went with daughter's friend who had worked there and were welcomed and given the star table (in the window, behind the coats where people can't easily see you, as opposed to the celeb tables where everyone can gawp at you to your heart's content) and had a pretty flawless evening. Good manhattans and cosmos (for the daughter) and a decent coupe for me followed by fois gras with eggs and bacon - amazingly delicious! We had to order bread - ok and baked on the premesis - to soak up the juices, pointing to the fact that you don't automatically get it when you sit down. I suspect that reflects its high quota of slender young things who try not to nibble....). The restaurant is strong on meats of the heartier variety and the party had roast belly of pork, which was just that - very tasty with plenty of crackling. My lemon sole was a disappointment - rather small and undistinguished, but they usually are so it was my poor choice. Daughter had a beautiful birthday dessert without the awful knot of waiters singing tunelessly but calvados was third-rate and only good for cooking. We had a fine Australian pinot noir from the short list and the whole meal ran out at about Â£6o a head....not bad for a noisy brasserie!

Number 22

herrylaw — Wed, 05 Dec 2007 22:44:37 +0000

Rating: 4.0

Location: 22 Half Moon Lane, SE24 9HU, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7095 9922

Website: http://www.number-22.com

Tags: spanish, family & home feel, good value

A Special Spanish in Herne HillGoing to a restaurant a second time is always instructive as the first occasion might have been an aberration - good or bad. Number 22 was already high on my return list, but as I am rarely in the Herne Hill area the need to entertain an old friend who lives on Half Moon Lane gave me the opportunity I needed. Booking on-line elicits an e-mail from the owner and the cheery open fire which greets you on a dark winter lunchtime raises one's expectations still more. The menu is tapas-orientated with a few more substantial plates. We nibbled on perfect breads and olive oil and had manchego and quince toasts (which were a little light on the quince), succulent pan-fried bass with mediterranean vegetables, clams in saffron sauce and a most delicious paprika and oregano pork dish. The only disappointment is that they only serve rather ordinary Serrano ham and not the beautiful - but admittedly very expensive - Gran Reserva ibÃ©rico ham - which would be worth coming to Herne Hill alone for. Number 22 has a pretty garden / terrace which would be a delight in the warmer months. There is a short but impressive wine and cocktail list from which we chose a beautiful Finca Valpiedra Reserva from the friendly and knowledgeable waitress and which kept out the chill wind on the walk home.

La Petite Maison

herrylaw — Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:32:50 +0000

Rating: 5.0

Location: 54 Brooks Mews, W1K 4EG, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7495 4774

Website: http://www.lpmlondon.co.uk/

Tags: lively, good value, crowded, expensive, french

New French Makes the GradeEagerly anticipated my first visit to La Petite Maison, being a fan of its parent in Nice (and the scary patronne, Nicole) and went for an early lunch - which was just as well, as the place had been booked up for later sittings several days before. The signature dish - poulet aux fois gras - is a large black-leg chicken stuffed with fois gras for two and must be ordered in advance, which I duly did - and then fielded no less than four calls on my mobile before I reached the restaurant, to determine if I was still coming (I was - and on time) and then the exact time that it should be served. Very correct - but a touch uber-enthusiastic nevertheless. We started with the famous salade d'artichauts - roughly chopped artichoke with parmesan - perhaps a little too much parmesan this time - washed down with a first-rate Sancerre Prestige. When the poulet came it was superb - and impressively substantial (see photo). I remember little of the rest of the meal as my companion is invariably entertaining but I noted that the menu was a replica of the Nice carte and had on it such dishes as loup de mer en croute de sel for which one formerly had to invest in ticket on the Blue Train to consume. The service was accomplished if not as memorable as in Nice, and the large bright room bore a contented lunchtime buzz and the smell of success.

Hunan

herrylaw — Sun, 12 Aug 2007 10:34:25 +0000

Rating: 4.8

Location: 51 Pimlico Road, SW1W 8LL, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7730 5712

Tags: expensive, family & home feel, chinese

Exceptional Chinese Cooking in PimlicoMost Chinese restaurants in Europe serve Cantonese food - the food of Southern China and Hong Kong - and although generally light and fresh, it can also be rather bland. Other regions of China feature more robust and spicy dishes . particularly the Sichuan and Hunanese styles. Hunan is an outstanding example of the latter and an entertaining experience as well. We began our evening with a glass of champagne at Carole Bamford's Dayleford Organics deli-cafe opposite the restaurant and arrived at Hunan smartly on time, as the owner, Mr Peng, is known to chew his guests up for breaches of etiquette. In fact he wasn't in attendance the night we went, but his son, who maintains his father's old-fashioned courtesy, was.

As recommended, we didn't ask for a menu, but said that we would leave it to him to bring us whatever he wished, save only that one of the party prefered vegetarian dishes. This is also to be recommended since they excel at vegetarian cooking and as all dishes can be shared, all can try everything. A eight-course banquet followed that was some of the best Chinese food I have ever had - even in China.

Fortunately somewhat 'nouvelle' in portion and style, the dishes flowed smoothly one by one (rather than being piled up on the table all at once) from our attentive waitress, with the spicing light and interesting and never fierce. Superb lamb, minced pork, salmon and seabream rolled together, double cooked pork, crunchy tofu and superbly sauced vegetables made for an outstanding meal. There was a full wine list, and Mr Peng is known to be an expert, but we washed the meal down with tea, the Chinese way.

The room is quite small and simply decorated with paintings of Chinese emperors and empresses and the atmosphere more French than Chinese, so don't go for a noisy convivial evening; just appreciate the superlative cooking and courtesy. Young Mr Peng shook our hands on leaving and wished us to return, which we certainly will.

Zuma

herrylaw — Thu, 02 Aug 2007 11:55:58 +0000

Rating: 4.4

Location: 5 Raphael Street, SW7 1DL, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7584 1010

Website: http://www.zumarestaurant.com

Tags: lively, smart, electronica, japanese, expensive

The best modern Japanese in LondonZuma is where we go for our extra-special-sod-the-wallet celebrations. Ayako, my wife loves it for the truly excellent modern Japanese food (generously overlooking the fact that the chef is German) while our daughter loves it for its high-class buzz and celebrity pulling-power (Russell Crowe et al). Service is exemplary; the waiters are brilliant at explaining the frankly rather complicated menu and recommending dishes - so that you end up with a smooth and seemingly endless feast that has to include: asparagus tempura, crispy fried squid with green chilli, mouthwatering wagyu beef, black cod with miso, superb sushi and sashimi (very unusual in London) and anything with wasabi mayonnaise. Everything should be shared and is, except, unfortunately, the bill. The wine list is long on spicy or smoky wines that go well with Japanese food, like the Franz Haas Traminer from Alto Adige. The sofa seating behind the bar is a good place to chose to eat and watch the parade of London's fashionable young things

Brula Bistrot

herrylaw — Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:19:41 +0000

Rating: 3.5

Location: 43 Crown Road, St Margarets, TW1 3EJ, Twickenham, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8892 0602

Website: http://www.brulabistrot.co.uk/

Tags: romantic, family & home feel, good value, french

A Gem in TwickenhamIn an unexciting street near St Margaret's Station, rather than near the Thames, Brula nevertheless overcomes its location by consistent high standards of cooking and service. On all ill-favoured Monday in the holiday season only three tables were taken at lunchtime, but the atmosphere was friendly and comfortable and the food of a high quality. I had a first-rate salad and a serviceable dourade royale (my fault for ordering fish on a Monday) but my colleague was ecstatic about his 'onglet' steak and I was able to pinch most of his chips while he was enthusing about it. We shared an excellent plate of regional cheeses and were only prevented by our car keys from having more of (in my case) a delicious Premier Cru Chablis than necessary.

The Sterling

herrylaw — Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:45:41 +0000

Rating: 3.5

Location: 30 St Mary Axe, EC3A 8BF, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7929 3641

Website: http://www.lewisandclarke.com/sterling.html

Tags: lively, british, good wines, Gherkin, piazza, fish, business, good value, City, sofas, friendly staff, restaurant

Social hub of the CityThe Sterling is my 'local' when in the City and stands where my office used to be before the bombing of the Baltic Exchange. It's a slightly unprepossessing place squeezed along one 'side' of the Gherkin (officially the Swiss Re building), with its entrance rather lost behind one of the gigantic girders that support the now iconic edifice. The Sterling is redeemed by three things: the maitre d' and her staff, the food and the terrace. Naimh Stanford ('pronounced 'Neame') is a dream of Irish charm and enthusiasm and she hangs onto a friendly and efficient brigade as well as chefs who above all buy and cook fish exceptionally well. I can still remember the absolutely delicious haddock from one of my first visits and have never been disappointed since. Wines are well-chosen , but the coffee comes in mugs - a bit of a turn-off. The terrace, in the shadow of the tower later in the day, is huge and hums with life whenever the weather is clement - and often when it's barely tolerable (the wind can be savage). On a good day they have to cope with up to 500 people, which makes it 'the' City social hub, at least for the insurance quarter.

Anchor Inn

herrylaw — Tue, 24 Jul 2007 06:22:18 +0000

Rating: 3.0

Location: Exebridge, TA22 9AZ, Dulverton, United Kingdom

Much improved food and atmosphere, according to the locals. It's a bit unfair to order Indian food in a pub, but it was up on the wall - and it tasted fine (though it could have done with more spice). A new dining area has been added at the back but we sat in the cosy front bar and were quite happy

Woods Bar and Dining Room

herrylaw — Mon, 23 Jul 2007 08:47:33 +0000

Rating: 4.0

Location: 4 Bank Square, TA22 9AU, Dulverton, United Kingdom

Tags: romantic, british, family & home feel, good value

Excellence in ExmoorDulverton is a charming but tiny country town at the foot of Exmoor, which despite outraging my animal-loving wife by advertising 'duck racing' at the local fete, provided an exceptional evening at an unexpectedly good restaurant. Woods is great: a rustic bar at one end (complete with wise-cracking locals) and a restaurant at the other with a good British menu (eg 'samphire') of very high-class food. I had a delicious green salad (an infallible test) and a Cornish lobster that was unusually succulent. My wife's dish of plaice was constructed in the approved 'on a bed of' form and was perfect. I was also able to scrounge enough of my nephew's steak to know that it one of the best pieces of meat I have had in ages. The wine list showed an unusual range including some of my favourite Central Otago Pinots. We had the Carrick (2003) and it was absolutely delicious. But the astonishing highlight of the night was being given quite the best Calvados I have ever tasted - Reserve d'Adrien from Adrien Camut. It was worth driving the 200 miles from London just to snuffle some up!

The Bear

herrylaw — Sat, 14 Jul 2007 06:40:28 +0000

Rating: 4.0

Location: Park Street, OX20 1SZ, Woodstock, United Kingdom

Tags: romantic, british, family & home feel, good value

One of the great inns of EnglandThe Bear is famous - almost as famous as Blenheim Palace at whose gates it has sat since the 13th Century. An arcetypal coaching inn covered in ivy and exuding warmth and conviviality, the decor has been carefully updated (the bedrooms are very comfortable if rarther too hot) and business meetings catered for. The large but cosy beamed restaurant (seats 80+) serves excellent modern Britsh grub. I went in the evening when there was noisy fair in the street outside where pigs were being roasted on spits, so the ambience was exceptionally mediaeval - but the delightful maitre d' was from Latvia. It's not cheap, but a great get-away from London (1.5 hours) and you can climb upstairs to bed

Coq d'Argent

herrylaw — Fri, 13 Jul 2007 21:50:45 +0000

Rating: 4.7

Location: 1 Poultry, EC2R 8EJ, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7395 5000

Website: http://www.conran.co.uk

Tags: french, business, crowded, expensive

An oasis in the skyLittle known outside the City's financial quarter, this is one of the best and most interesting restaurants in London. Accessed by discreet lifts on the ground floor of the unloved eyesore No 1 Poultry, one enters a magical rooftop garden and a calm, wide room with views over much of the City. Eyewateringly expensive and mouthwateringly good, a recent light lunch of a plate of fines de Claire and a vegetable tart washed down with a couple of glasses of house Sancerre knocked the top off £70. A dinner for two - still only drinking the house Sancerre - was £150. But after a meal, stroll outside onto the round terrace (where you can also eat among the wisteria) and through a gate, and be amazed at the view from the carefully-tended lawn and the lookout folly at the point overlooking Bank. Alternatively, just come up for a drink in the garden and watch the sun go down

San Lorenzo Fuoriporta

herrylaw — Thu, 12 Jul 2007 17:47:21 +0000

Rating: 3.0

Location: 38 Wimbledon Hill Road, SW19 7PA, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8946 8463

Tags: italian, good value

70s Trat Atmosphere But Excellent CookingAn almost out-of-town sibling of the wonderful San Lorenzo of Beauchamp Place, which maintains an almost mystical attraction for high society partly due to its refusal to take credit cards, making it necessary to be seriously cashed up - or be well enough known to Mara Berni to write a cheque. Ghigo Berni presides over the Wimbledon restaurant - or I suppose would do if he was there; but on the night we went he was absent and the staff were disappointingly ordinary, trying to give us an ill-favoured table even though we were well-dressed and the place was half empty The conservatory which might have been more atmospheric was closed and the rest of the decor is generally somewhat '70's trat'.

That aside, the food was excellent: delicious lobster salad, succulent calves' liver, an exceptional fillet of beef and a mouthwatering mixed grill of fish and shellfish. We finished sharing a beautifully well-balanced semifreddo al vin santo, the meal all washed down with a decent Pinot Bianco for only £17.50. £170 for four people including service made it a pretty reasonable night out - and they take credit cards!

Cecconi's

herrylaw — Sat, 07 Jul 2007 22:55:50 +0000

Rating: 4.4

Location: 5A Burlington Gardens, W1S 3EW, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7434 1500

Website: http://www.cecconis.co.uk/

Cecconi's is probably the top Italian restaurant in London when it comes to business; the River Cafe and Zafferano are both better for mainly social gatherings. As one reviewer has noted, Cecconi's is a place where one can run into 'heavies' - and not just one account of the size of their wallets. But go for some sublime dishes - the Tagliolini Verdi Gratiati comes immediately to mind - and superlative Italian wines - like the Sforza I had last time. You will leave much lighter that you came in - in the wallet department

Smith & Wollensky

herrylaw — Sat, 07 Jul 2007 22:42:26 +0000

Rating: 3.5

Location: 1 Washington Avenue, 33139, Miami, United States of America

Great place to watch the cruiseships pass by on Friday evenings

Carnevales

herrylaw — Fri, 06 Jul 2007 15:57:54 +0000

Rating: 4.0

Location: 558-560 Garratt Lane, SW17 0NY, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8944 9331

Tags: italian, light and airy, delicious pasta, good value, local, friendly, romantic, lively

An Italian gem in SW17A real find and probably the best place in the Earlsfield/Wimbledon area, according to locals. Last time I had had a wonderful dish of linguine and a delicious bottle of one of the house wines - Locatella Fruili (a reasonble £5 by the glass). The chef - Sabatini - comes from Cecconi's and cooks their sublime 'tagliolini verdi gratinati' on special days. This time my wife had 'linguine con vongole', which is often done indifferently, but was totally delicious, while I had the pasta of the day - taglioni stuffed with crab and lobster - which was good, though perhaps the sauce was a little predictable. The light and airy room, open whenever the weather allows, and the friendly but very experienced service made it an exceptional experience. Pretty reasonable at £66 for two including four glasses of wine included salads and two pannacottas swimming in enough grappa to induce my wife to kiss the maitre d' on leaving.