Latest reviews by gastro1's friends

Paul A Young Fine Chocolates - review by Niamheen

Fri, 10 Oct 2008 15:53:38 +0000

Paul A Young Fine Chocolates - review by Niamheen

Rating: 5.0

Location: 33 Camden Passage, N1 8EA, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7424 5750

Website: http://www.paulayoung.co.uk/

Tags: artisan, luxury, treat, islington, chocolate

This really is an exceptional chocolate shop. A treasure trove of chocolate goodies, from salted caramels to chilli chocolate. It has an air of luxury about it and is a real treat. It's not cheap, but then why would it be? They sell gorgeous artisan chocolates and these come at a price. It's worth going alone for the hot chocolate, I had mine spiced with sichuan peppercorns and it was divine (check out the pic).

I say go and indulge, you'll thank me for it!

L'atelier des Chefs - review by Niamheen

Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:41:42 +0000

L'atelier des Chefs - review by Niamheen

Rating: 4.0

Location: 19 Wigmore St, London, W1U 1PH, London, United Kingdom

Phone: +44 207 499 658

Website: http://atelierdeschefs.co.uk/

Tags: quick, cooking school, cooking class, rare finds

I have a bit of an obssession with food, this is true. Even more so when cooking and trying new things. So, when I heard about a new cookery school that had opened in central London I had to try it.

Firstly, I was curious, l'atelier des Chefs are very popular already in France and their arrival in London has been highly publicised in the media and blogosphere. They've different types of classes, they run up to 5 sessions a day ranging from a half hour to two hours. For them it's about the food but also the social experience of sitting down and enjoying your meal with your fellow cooks and a glass of wine. One class runs for half an hour over lunch, called the "Cook, Eat & Run", then there's the 60 minute class covering two courses, the 90 minute class covering 3 courses and the 120 minute class covering 3 courses based around a theme (e.g. they've one coming up for foie gras). Secondly, I've been reading great things, Krista (on TrustedPlaces and of Londonelicious) was an immediate convert and she doesn't even like to cook! So, I registered for on of the "Cook, Eat & Run" lunchtime classes and off I went.

You chose your day around what they're cooking (at least I did!) and I chose to go the day that they were cooking Risotto di Gambas (prawn risotto for the non-French speakers amongst us - that includes me :-). I arrived a little early as I wanted to take a look around, and was quite impressed with the venue that greeted me, it's a bright airy space with a vast sparkling kitchen with lots of natural daylight coming through the skylights ahead. They were extremely friendly and offered a glass of water while I waited for the rest of my class to arrive which they did shortly after.

We were greeted by our chef Tony. Now, I am a fan of risotto and when I make it, it takes me some time, so I wondered just how are we going to get this done in half an hour? Well, many hands make light work, Tony took us through what we had to do, and within a few minutes we had been shown how to do everything and I was beheading and deshelling super fresh prawns. This particular recipe also included mushrooms (shitake and normal) and I was curious about how this would taste.

We spent a very sociable 17 minutes cooking our risotto (yes - we timed it :-), each person taking their turn stirring for risotto is a labour of love. Tony was on hand for any advice and tips along the way. Once the risotto was cooked we left the kitchen and sat at a table outside with our spoils, with white wine and bread to go with it. The risotto was delicious, and I plan to recreate it and experiment with the prawn/mushroom combination. We followed it with a fantastic chocolate mousse dessert and coffee which rendered me speechless temporarily.

It was a very sociable and uplifting experience, I didn't know any of my fellow cooks having arrived on my own. This didn't act as a barrier, everyone was so friendly and really into it, despite the differing levels of experience among the group. The staff were really friendly and encouraging.

One thing I hadn't read anywhere was how good the range of produce available to buy is. It's an eclectic mix from ceramic knives to silicone moulds to tomato vinegar and the El Bulli Spherificaion Kits which I haven't seen for sale in many places.

I had a great time, and I've recommended it to many people. I am looking forward to bringing friends and visitors there. It's a lovely experience.

Brill - review by Niamheen

Mon, 06 Oct 2008 14:59:27 +0000

Brill - review by Niamheen

Rating: 4.0

Location: 27 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7833 9757

Tags: cosy, wifi, good brew, quick bite, lively, cultured

Brill is a real gem. A gorgeous little independent music shop that also serves good coffee and has a small but very well chosen selection of music. It's the perfect antidote to our chain culture. It's almost like visiting a friends to raid their collection, only you get to buy and keep them ;) There's often good music deals too.

Not content with offering great music and coffee, you can also get brick lane bagels, pastries, brownies and there's free wifi. We need more of these places and we need to support the ones that are around. I would highly recommend you pop in and fall in love with Brill, as I have.

Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley (Petrus) - review by Food_Snob

Mon, 06 Oct 2008 08:54:45 +0000

Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley (Petrus) - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.0

Location: The Berkeley Hotel, SW1X 7RL, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7235 1200

Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com

Tags: lively, expensive, french

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/01/marcus-wareing-at-the-berkeley-london/

Text-only Critique:

I suppose most of you have already read that Waitrose Food Illustrated article for yourselves now. It is legendary and rightly so: I imagine James Steen must have soiled himself listening to Marcus Wareing (thatâ¬"s right - itâ¬"s Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley tonight! Can you feel the excitement?) launch into his sensationally blunt invective against that â¬Üsad b*st*rdâ¬", Gordon Ramsay - a reporterâ¬"s wet dream, indeed. Although grudgingly good entertainment, it is also a personal shame as I was secretly hoping to dispense with the now-expected, prolix preamble this post (or at least condense it somewhat) and get tucked straight into dinnerâ¬"s narrative; but how could I honestly ignore a feud that has rocked Londonâ¬"s dinnerland to its timbers or whose reverberations have, at the very least, shaken a few pristine pieces of cutlery out of their proper, precise places?

Here is the stereotypical tale of two teenage friends who grew up to become bitter enemies, conquering Londonâ¬"s restaurant scene along the way - did you know Team Ramsay-Wareing has amassed 15 Michelin stars? Thatâ¬"s within tasting distance of Robuchonâ¬"s 17! Impressive stuff. The story, and this is Marcusâ¬" story, starts in Lancashire, where a shy, quiet teenager decided to follow his brother, the chef, into a culinary career. Enrolling into catering college, under big brother Brianâ¬"s behest, turned young Wareingâ¬"s world upside down, suddenly he was brimful of confidence: â¬Üthe kitchen was my comfort zone and I felt good in whites.â¬" He was also the centre of attention and impressing peers, teachers and judges alike, enough so that one such referee referred him to a sous chef at the Savoy. Thus, aged 18, he had his foot in the door, becoming the Savoyâ¬"s new commis chef under the aegis of Anton Edelmann. Spending two years here, the galloping gastro then went through ten kitchens in ten years: he moved first to Le Gavroche, serving under another great, Albert Roux, and also where he first met Gordon; Marcus, 19, and Gordon, 22, hit it off instantly. Next came the Point, near NYC; the Grand Hotel, Amsterdam, joining Roux again; Gravetye Manor, West Sussex (where he met Jane, his wife); before arriving at Pierre Koffmannâ¬"s La Tante Claire. Here, he was reunited with Ramsay, but only for one week: the morning he arrived, Gordon (in an unrelated move) handed in his notice; he was opening Aubergine and wanted Marcus with him. The fortnight that followed, under the notoriously difficult Koffmann, was more than enough convincement to lead Marcus one night to Aubergineâ¬"s backdoor, where, almost on the spot, Marco Pierre White gave Marcus Wareing a job at Gordon Ramsayâ¬"s first restaurantâ¬¦starsâ¬¦dizzyâ¬¦The pair became inseparable, but after two years, side by side, sixteen hours a day, six days a week giving â¬Üthat guy everything [he] had,â¬" Marcus needed a break and returned to NYC, to Daniel Bouludâ¬"s Le Cirque (then Americaâ¬"s top restaurant). However, twelve months and visa problems later, he was back with Ramsay - via Guy Savoy, Paris - setting up lâ¬"Oranger. Within a year, he had won a Michelin star, within another, he had been sacked (the day after Ramsay quit) over internecine wrangling with owners, A-Z. Undaunted, Marcus recovered in style, becoming chef-patron of then St James Street sited PÃ©trus, named after his favourite wine, in 1999. It took him only seven months more to earn another Michelin star. Going from strength to strength now, in 2003 he also took over the Savoy Grill; opened Banquette, an American diner, above it; and moved PÃ©trus into La Tante Claireâ¬"s old spot at The Berkeley. In 2004, he also earned Savoy its first ever star.

Note the symmetrical circularity of Marcusâ¬" life: he begun at the Savoy, left, did a spell at Guy Savoy, then returned, thirteen years on, as head chef; also, after spending two weeks at La Tante Claire, ten years later he was back, replacing it with his own restaurant.

A year ago, everything looked grand: PÃ©trus had picked up star number two and Wareing was riding high, earning unanimous praise and plaudits aplenty -many touted PÃ©trus as Londonâ¬"s best restaurant - whilst Ramsay was opening restaurants across the world, recording TV shows and making his millions. What went wrong? Well, rumours of a rift had already begun surfacing in early 2007; apparently, Marcus had grown sick of the â¬Üshadowâ¬" sobriquet his relationship with Gordon had earned him, as well as the claustrophobic consequences of being another cog in the GRH machine - he was a man â¬Üconstrained, confined and trappedâ¬". In May, gossip had it that Gordon was about to fire Marcus, but Wareing must have sensed this himself and made a pre-emptive strike: GRHâ¬"s lease with The Berkeley was due to expire on 19 September, so he launched an independent bid for it. And got it. A summer of squabbling between the two super-chefs supervened. Eventually, an accord was reached: Gordon kept the name (supposedly on its way to La Noisetteâ¬"s old location), wine cellar and maÃ®tre dâ¬", Jean-Philippe Susilovic; Marcus kept his stars and won his freedom. After a one-week closure mid-September, Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley is now open.

The David Collins interior has remained intact. It is still sophisticated and dramatic yet warm and clubby; still very grown up. The belle Ã©poque theme is embodied by rich claret colouring, characteristic of PÃ©trus wine itself. The deep Burgundy walls and well-padded plum armchairs are contrasted against crisp white, double-layered tablecloths. Circles figure prominently too: ovular mirrors, round tables, white French blinds made of linking loops; and white, milk and dark chocolate-coloured boules upon two large abacuses that screen a wall of wine chillers. Well-spaced, large tables are dressed with a couple of calla lilies, white candleholder, Bernaudaud porcelain (Fat Duck, lâ¬"Atelier de JoÃ«l Robuchon in Paris and Jean Georges of New York are also fans) and thick, starched napkins. Fragrant bouquets of white hydrangeas and more calla lilies; opulent fittings; and dim lighting from glittering chandeliers and soft golden lamps adds to the sense of seduction and luxury.

Amuse Bouche 1: Confit of Foie Gras. First of the finger-foods were thin pastry feuille and foie gras sandwiches, crusted with cassis dust and atop a squiggle of golden quince purÃ©e. Creamy foie confit, flaky feuilles, biting blackcurrant and spur of sweet quince: these offered a very pleasant introduction to Monsieur Marcusâ¬" kitchen.

Amuse Bouche 2: Black Truffle Parmesan Risotto Croquettes. More nibbles to occupy my fingers followed: golden, crunchy spheres of hot, creamy, cheesy risotto and robust, tasty truffle were superb. The yielding grains of rice within the milky magma middles felt lovely on the tongue. The nutty parmesan squared up to the bold black truffle. The result: fireworks.

Les Pains: Country Bread; Swiss Brown; Sourdough; and Potato & Honey Bread. The country bread was rustic in taste and texture with a hard, thick crust; Swiss brown was lighter with a moist, porous filling and brittle coat; whilst the slightly nutty sourdough had a dense middle and chewy exterior. The best though was the potato and honey; the potato gave a delicate, open crumb and honey, a crunchy, caramelised, but not sweet, edge. Unfortunately, these were not made by the restaurant itself, being bought in from the Flour Station instead. This obviously meant they were served neither fresh nor hot out the oven. The butter was English, unsalted and frustratingly un-spreadable.

Amuse Bouche 3: Warm Pumpkin Soup with Parmesan Foam and Pumpkin Seed Grissini. The official amuse was a shot of thick pumpkin potage topped with parmesan mousse complete with parmesan-pumpkin seed breadsticks, The smooth, satisfying soup balanced salty, nutlike and earthy tang while the skinny, smoky grissini were crisp, rich and packed serious salty relish.

EntrÃ©e 1: Pan Fried Foie Gras - Glazed Black Figs, Espresso and Salted Caramel Popcorn. A thick, fat cut of foie gras, resting upon warm fig compote, was the centrepiece of the dish; whole popcorn pieces and a smear of espresso syrup strewn with salty, caramelised popcorn dust supported. The lush liver was indescribably delicious. Its auburn veneer, which submitted so readily to my fork that my knife was never touched, held within a juicy, almost runny core. The underlying fig, chopped and diced with skin still on, gave great textural variation to the overlaying liver: its skin was chewy, flesh smooth and seeds gritty and crunchy. The espresso was an excellent addition, with a strong, grounding flavour initially exciting the taste buds and contrasting well with the rich foie, then leaving behind a pleasing roasted residual finish.

EntrÃ©e 2: Scallops and Cod - Confit, Cauliflower, Macadamia Nuts, Fourme dâ¬"Ambert and White Chocolate. A sizeable seared scallop, sliced open, was sat atop cauliflower purÃ©e, sprinkled with chopped Macadamia nuts and sided by a smearing of Fourme dâ¬"Ambert blue cheese; flakes of cod confit, squares of warm white chocolate and orange and purple pansies garnished the dish. My first taste was of nut-topped scallop spread with cheese; the formidable Fourme took hold of the shellfish and delivered a powerful punch proceeded by a clean, nutty aftertaste that complemented the crunchy Macadamias. Normally, I would have suggested the scallop could have done with a little more time in the pan, for though just about cooked through, the skin was still soft, but in this scenario, this suppler surface suited the scallopâ¬"s role as a transport for the stronger savours surrounding it. The firm cod cuts were full of flavour and combined nicely with the melting milky chocolate; the flowers added colour and texture; an accompaniment of grilled Irish soda bread was yummy - thick, moist and juicy. The plate was full of curious combinations, which came off rather well; dominant elements and more obliging ones worked together to create a very balanced whole.

EntrÃ©e 3: Roasted and Marinated Quail - Hispi Cabbage, Pommery Mustard and Baked Potato. Meaty fillets of roast quail lay on a bed of crisp hispi cabbage alongside baked potato foam within which was veiled quail leg and trompette fricassee. The birdâ¬"s skin was disconcertingly soggy, but on tasting, infused with Pommery mustard and anise, it delivered such strong, sweetish, sharp bursts that this was fast forgiven. The hispi, a sweeter, softer cabbage, was warm and snappy and also suffused with the palatial Pommery. I was long interested how something as unrefined as baked potato would be incorporated, but its foamy form was lighter than air with the subtlest creaminess to it. Within was a scrumptious surprise of quail legs, cooked till almost confit, coupled with black chanterelles; the gamey dark meat and deep, robust mushrooms were deliciously intense.

EntrÃ©e 4: Pan Fried Veal Sweetbread - Swiss Chard, Roasted Ceps and Celeriac, Sauternes Jus. Two thin tranches of celeriac served as an impromptu pancake for diced Swiss chard stalk and leaf, on top of which was placed a seriously seductive sweetbread slab. Surrounding this were bundles of roast ceps upon cep mousse adorned with black truffle julienne and an amber jus of veal stock and sauternes that had been added tableside. The glistening gamboge gland was exquisite: its blazing hot jacket proved ineffectual, but palatable, protection for the pretty pink, creamy kernel. The mini mushroom mounds were explosive in taste: the sweet-acidity the rich gravy had been absorbed by the meaty, smoky ceps, which together with the redolent, pungent truffle, were absolutely intoxicating. The subjacent Swiss chard was slightly bitter and crunchy, whilst its celeriac capsule was smooth and nutty: together, they were a nice earthy anchor for the deep intensity of this dish. This was sensual, epicurean eating. Wow!

Plat Principal 1: Scottish Halibut - Charred Leeks, Coddled Quail Egg, English Watercress and Creamed Caviar. A hunky hunch of halibut, braised, came carrying char gilled baby leek, cloven coddled quail egg and watercress-almond tuile. Smatterings of purÃ©ed watercress, spoonful of creamed Oscietra caviar, parmesan twirl and dark pansies filled the plate. The fishy filletâ¬"s expert execution enabled me to devour the delicate flesh flake by firm flake. The watercress three ways - warm, thick paste; peppery, almost mustard-like, garniture; and slightly bitter tuile - were a pleasing terrene contrast to the sweeter halibut. I found the caviar cream, though silky smooth, lacking in impression. The lovely leek was mellow and tender, but I was supplied with just a single stalk to savour. The quail egg, traditional caviar complement, was warm and creamy, but again paltry in provision - maybe the kitchen was considering my health; one quail egg contains the same cholesterol as several hen eggs.

Plat Principal 2: Poached and Glazed Anjou Pigeon - Scottish Girolles, Almonds and Amaretti. A plump pigeon breast, poached and glazed with black olive, almond and cobnut crumble, rested on a busy base of broken amaretti biscuit bits, baby gem lettuce, girolle mushrooms and sliced spear of white asparagus. The list of ingredients was enticing; the presentation, mouth-watering. Crunchy asparagus, sweet and subtly nutlike; full-bodied, fruity girolles soaked in pigeon vinaigrette; crunchy cobnuts; crisp, sugary amaretti; bitter black olives; earthy lettuce dripping with pigeon jus: these mingled marvellously, matching and bouncing tastes and textures around my mouth. However, it was all in vain. The alluring cerise-coloured guise of the pigeon steak was a siren call; it wooed me in, only to dash my hopes on proverbial rocks. OK, I exaggerate, but the bird was seriously bereft of flavour. This alone was bad enough, but with such quality trimmings and as this was the mealâ¬"s climatic main course, it was criminal.

Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley (Petrus) - review by Food_Snob

Mon, 06 Oct 2008 08:54:45 +0000

Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley (Petrus) - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.0

Location: The Berkeley Hotel, SW1X 7RL, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7235 1200

Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com

Tags: lively, expensive, french

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/01/marcus-wareing-at-the-berkeley-london/

Text-only Critique:

Pre-Dessert: Milk Chocolate & Raspberry GÃ¢teau; Eton Mess; and Lemon CrÃ¨me. A trio of sweets en miniature was served. There was a lovely chocolate and raspberry opera composed of fine layers of silky mousse and tart raspberry; with each bite, it felt like a hundred delicate feuilles were broken through. A petite quenelle of raspberry crÃ¨me and soft-baked meringue with crisp white chocolate biscuit tuile was an airy, fruity reincarnation of Eton mess. In a shot glass was, not surprisingly, a shot of gin sorbet sitting on lemon curd and studded with dried violet petals. The combination of sweetly-sour lemon, hard, ice-cold gin jolt and crunchy sugary violets was very refreshing.

Dessert 1: Orange CrÃ¨me, Spiced Brioche Crisps, Bitter Chocolate Sorbet. Though not a huge orange fan, the promise of bitter chocolate sorbet was an offer I could not refuse. Three thin, circular crisps of toasted brioche formed a double-decker club of marshmallow-like orange mousse. The sugar-dusted sandwich came topped with a sleek and shiny scoop of gold-powdered bitter chocolate sorbet and skirted by a splash of still-bitter cocoa crumb. The subtle, foamy crÃ¨me offered none of the sour acidity of an orange, only its fruity, sweet refreshment; the spicy feuilles were warm with nutmeg and cinnamon; whilst the thick, grainy chocolate was just a treat. Violating the immaculate composition, a secret surprise stash of skinned orange segments was uncovered within. The lovely understated flavours, crunchy brioche cushioned within the soft, cream pillows and juicy fruit made this dessert unexpectedly gratifying.

Dessert 2: Warm Chocolate Moelleux, Banana Jelly, Banana Ice Cream. Positioned in the plateâ¬"s centre was a warm curvaceous cocoa cake, beside it was a boule of banana ice cream beset atop candied banana peel and chocolate chips. A sprinkling of rosemary sugar dust ran rim-to-rim opposite, intersected by a faint banana caramel line whose course was channelled by little jelly cubes of more banana-caramel. The moelleux, of connoisseursâ¬" choice 70% Valrhona, proved more than just a cake. Easing a spoon into the spongy, rough surface, the mini-enigma erupted with hot, dark liquid chocolate: a pleasant and pleasantly bitter surprise - this specific cacao is noted for its full variety of natural essences, ranging between fruity, coffee, floral and nutty. The well-made ice cream and jellies both had distinct, clear banana intensity. The rosemaryâ¬"s subtly sour woody-lemon spark was an appreciated extra.

Dessert 3: Peanut Parfait, Valrhona Chocolate Mousse, Salt Caramel Jelly, Raspberry CrÃ¨me. A pillar of peanut parfait, propped upon a caramelised peanut plinth and boasting a milk chocolate mousse capital on which balanced a cocoa tuile, was constructed shaduf-like over a small milk chocolate cup containing hidden raspberry coulis beneath raspberry crÃ¨me and sugared nut; a dollop of salt caramel jelly and rice crispy clusters finished off the plate. Again the distinction and clarity of each element stood out whilst the variation of textures also played its part - smooth parfait; crispy rice; sticky, crunchy nut; soft chocolate. The raspberry picked up on the discreet fruity tones of the Valrhona and its partnership with the peanut was a deft redesign of traditional peanut butter and jelly.

Petit Fours: Bon Bon Trolley - Passion Fruit & Mango; Turkish Delight; Almond Praline; Dark Chocolate Ganache; White Chocolate & Blackcurrant; and Salted Caramel. A small serving cart carrying a large silver sculpture holding hanging bowls filled with an assortment of homemade chocolates was trolleyed over. Naturally, I tried one of each: the first had a fine liquid centre of powerful passion fruit tempered with cool mango; significantly better than average Turkish delight featured smooth jelly middle; praline, with crunchy nut shell and soft ganache, was good. Dark chocolate was nice and bitter; white chocolate had vinous, velvety fruit filling; and the salty caramel was lovely and strong, surprising my taste buds.

It is difficult to decide how much I enjoyed this meal. Beforehand, expectations were staggeringly high - I was anticipating 3* cooking (or something very close to it). Dinner started well: good amuses; great foie gras; good scallop and quail; stunning sweetbread. However, mains failed to impress and desserts, bar a very nice orange crÃ¨me, were just decent. Marcus has a reputation for technical brilliance and sophistication and he deserves it: the food was faultless in preparation with clean, focused dishes featuring one or two showpiece ingredients simply teamed with just a small number of well-thought-out accompaniments. However, textbook execution is not enough on its own. I wanted to be awed and overwhelmed; I wasnâ¬"t (tough the sweetbread will remain with me for a long, long time). The food was definitely agreeable and though there were no â¬Übadâ¬" courses, my satisfaction was somewhat shackled by imperfect service.

At this level, impeccable service ought to be de rigueur. On the night, it ranged from friendly to frustrating to neglectful. No one was rude or made any major mistakes, but, as I have often written, it is the little details that matter most. Such little details that derailed my dining delight included the unwillingness of staff to appreciate my wish to learn more about dishes than simply their menu descriptions; one would think that after two/three times of asking, they would appreciate this. Another annoyance was, when asking for seconds from the bonbon trolley (foodslob rears his fat face again), I was demanded, politely, to limit my request. Now, this was me being greedy, but no is the last thing I want to hear somewhere such as this; it should not be in their vocabulary. Once, asking for more bread - actually, I had to ask for more every time I wanted some - I had to wait fifteen minutes for it. Another time, I questioned one serveuse about an ingredient; she insisted she would find out, but after a lengthy disappearance, she needed prompting after finally returning to inform me of the answer. More serious criticism however goes to the sometimes rushed treatment I received. I was not hurried through the meal, but staff did not always have/find/make time to actually stop at the table with food delivered and literally described on-the-go. There may have been problems with the FOH, generally, that night: I overheard an adjacent table complain about delayed main courses; apparently, twenty minutes was far beyond necessary and usual to wait for this gentleman, who seemed rather eager to impress his parents/in-laws and wife with his big-boy behaviour.

To be honest, I was very excited about this restaurant; I was desperate to love it, ready to preach the Gospel according to Marcus. However, ultimately the food was just good and service not perfect; as much as I wanted it to, as much as I willed it, the ground did not move for me, the spirit did not possess meâ¬¦

Londonâ¬"s best? Sadly, I cannot concur.

The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RL
tel: 020 7255 1200
nearest tube: Hyde Park Corner, Knightsbridge
www.the-berkeley.co.uk

Bo Zin - review by Food_Snob

Thu, 02 Oct 2008 09:38:06 +0000

Bo Zin - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 2.5

Location: Route de L'Ourika, 40000, Marrakech, Morocco

Phone: +212(0)24388))&

Website: http://bo-zin.com/

Tags: lively, north african, crowded, thai

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/08/18/bo-zin-marrakech/

Text-only Critique:

A short stretch outside the city walls of Marrakech, on the road to lâ¬"Ourika valley, sits BÃ´ & Zin. One needs a taxi and a guide to get there; the first, because of the distance and the second, because one would certainly not find it unless they knew exactly where it was. Though upon the main road, one of Marrakechâ¬"s most exciting nightspots is concealed within an ochre-red brick walled bunker. From without, like most Moroccan riads/restaurants/buildings in general, it is nothing to behold, but from within, it is contemporary, capacious and chic.

Actually it is more than capacious, it is colossal: there is room for around 400 guests spread between a pergola (fitting 50-70), a bar (50-80), two verandas (40 each), an interior lounge (70-90) and a garden (100-120). Inside, there is a laid-back cool emanating from plush sofas, fireplaces, candles and dim lighting. The mood changes as, walking through the more rustic verandas filled with bamboo cane armchairs, white linen liveried furniture and large earthenware pottery, one reaches the exotic gardens. Out here, on one side is a long bar, on the other the dining area and in between a litter of torches, tents and braziers.

The dining area consists of a mix of white booths and chairs around onyx tables, all studded across white platforms and footbridges over decorative ponds. I apologise now for the general lack of photography, but it was â¬Üstrongly frowned uponâ¬" by the management; in fact, before the meal we were even put through the charade of forced posing whilst a staff member took photos of us together, hoping surely to stop us taking more later by controllably satisfying our appetites now.

The menu promised a â¬Üculinary cruise where flavours of Asia mingle with those of Morocco and the classics of International Cuisineâ¬". Queue raised eyebrows. What this translated into were dishes either Moroccan in design with Thai ingredients or Thai-style dishes using local produce; there was a couple of random entries too to comply with the international tag (Serrano smoked ham, â¬Üeggplants milfeuilleâ¬", etc.).

EntrÃ©es: BÃ´ & Zin << Thai>> Tasting Selection and BÃ´ & Zin << Japan>> Tasting Selection 14 Pieces. We were four so, for entrÃ©es, we ordered two tasting platters. The Thai offered â¬Üthe nem, the chicken satay, steam Thai, the glass noodles, prawns saladâ¬", whilst Japan gave us â¬Üsushis, sashimis, makis, California Rolls, Cucumber-sesame saladâ¬". To be honest, bar some salmon, I cannot name any Japanese components, much time has passed since, but that is not the reason; Wâ¬"s pithy comment summed it up nicely, â¬Üworst sushi Iâ¬"ve ever had, dudeâ¬". Thai hardly fared better, but put some deep-fried food on the table and, for certain, someone is going to eat it (sauf moi, Ã©videmment); the nems (spring rolls) and battered prawns were proof of this. Needless to say, a shameful quantity of food remained.

Plats Principals: As mains, we selected scallops, an assortment of kebabs, shark and lamb. Bear with me as I try with difficulty to recount my feelings and othersâ¬" opinions of each dish. The Scallops with Olive Oil and Leek Fondue were nicely presented, cooked correctly and served with caramelised cherry tomatoes and leeks. Actually, my cousin enjoyed this so much so that I did not get to taste any. The Kebabs Assortment - Beef, Lamb, Chicken, Salmon, Shark, Prawns was decent. I tried the salmon myself; it had good flavour, charred coat and moist middle. The Shark - in Tagine with Apricot and Courgette sounded very exciting, but seriously disappointed; the shark itself was rather horrible - dry and mushy at the same time - its sauce was decent, but had no chance of saving the dish. The Lamb - in Tagine, with Moroccan Truffle and Walnuts was the pick of the four. The meat, juicy and tender, fell off the bone at the slightest urging and was complemented well by the accompanying crunchy walnuts. The gravy that the sizeable shank sat in was delicious: sweet, rich and thick. In hindsight, I believe someone snatched that tubby truffle before I had even seen it! Judging by the leftovers - scallops (none); kebabs (very little); shark (loads); and lamb (not a drop) - this course was much preferred to the first.

Desserts: Choosing these caused some debate, probably as this course would make or break the meal. Much negotiation and polite coercion led to the ordering of macaroons, ice cream, crÃ¨me brÃ»lÃ©e and chocolate cake. First, the Macarons - Vanilla, Chocolate and Pistachio; these were utterly forgettable. The Bitter Chocolate, Date and Pistachio Ice Cream were alright and dispatched with quite quickly. My cousin was very keen on ordering the CrÃ¨me BrÃ»lÃ©e - in Trilogy, Vanilla, Pistachio and Honey-Saffron, but after an initial taste of each, she refused any more. She made some strong allegations against the honey-saffron especially, suggesting that it was unpalatable (euphemistic retelling here), but all three tasted the same or rather, were pretty tasteless, to me. Finally, the Chocolate - Melt BÃ´ & Zin Cake, Ice Cream; I would like to write something about this, but I cannot even remember what it looked like! However, chocolate is chocolate and this too was polished off.

The food left us unanimous in our dissatisfaction and disappointment. One, maybe two dishes were good (the lamb, maybe the scallops), but the rest were mediocre and forgettable at their best. However, though we were in accord that this was not probably a place noted for its cuisine, we all agreed that it seemed quite fashionable, fun and a good place to spend an evening with friends; but certainly more bar-cum-restaurant than restaurant-cum-bar.

As the night wore on, BÃ´ & Zin filled with a discerning crowd of well-groomed Moroccan socialites and well-tanned Euro expats. The music was pumping, the crowd was chichi, drinks were shockingly expensive - this was indeed the place to be seen. Apparently, it is a destination for many Western celebrities and affluent Europeans when in town: recently it has hosted parties for Christian Dior and Albert FrÃ¨re whilst Salma Hayek and Matt Damon have been seen partying here.

I cannot deny BÃ´ & Zin does have its charms - beautiful dÃ©cor, beautiful crowd, good music too - but without a doubt, this self-styled â¬Üdrinking & fooding oasisâ¬", is more about the drinking than the fooding.

Douar Lahna, Route de lâ¬"Ourika 3,5km, 40 000 Marrakech
tel: +212 (0) 24 388 012
email: contact@bo-zin.com
www.bo-zin.com

Brindisa - review by Niamheen

Wed, 01 Oct 2008 16:38:24 +0000

Brindisa - review by Niamheen

Rating: 4.5

Location: 32 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7713 1666

Website: http://www.brindisa.com

Tags: food, high quality, rare finds, delicatessen, spanish

I have a mild obssession with Brindisa. Ok, it's not so mild, it's a full on bona fide obssession. I start to think about it, and I can't think about anything else, I want to go there. This happens several times a week.

It all started quite innocently with a hunt for judion beans many years ago, those giant butter beans used in Spanish cooking. Even in a great sprawling city like London they are hard to find. Until you find Brindisa that is. A quick dash around the shop revealed many types of pulses, spices, meats, cheeses, chorizo, morcilla, even paella pans. I was hooked.

Then I discovered the stew and the sandwiches, the homemade tortilla and the gazpacho and for a while it was game over for all other lunch options. The staff are so friendly and knowledgable, it's a pleasure to shop there. Some of the produce is very expensive, but it's a worthwhile spend for most of it. For lunch you can't really go wrong with takeaway options like a fabulous roll with jamon iberico & *good* tomatoes for Â£3.95, or, chorizo & chickpea stew with bread for Â£4. They also support small time independent producers, ethically they've got things covered.

It's worth going for their cooking chorizo alone, it's my favourite by far and delis in the know also stock it. I love it there and I'll continue to go there as often as is reasonable. I'll probably be explaining it to a heart surgeon in years to come, but it will have been worth it*.

* Disclaimer: I hope this doesn't happen and if my future heart surgeon is reading this, sincere apologies and feel free to slap me around the head.

Malletti - review by Niamheen

Tue, 30 Sep 2008 16:55:55 +0000

Malletti - review by Niamheen

Rating: 4.0

Location: 174 - 176 Clerkenwell Rd, EC1R 5DD, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7713 8665

Tags: italian, cheap eat, lively

...now that Malletti has opened in Clerkenwell. Hurrah!

I love Malletti and have been going to their Noel St branch in Soho for years. It's the real deal, a proper pizza bar with a somewhat overwhelming variety of lovely thin based pizzas. They're fantastic quality and a real treat. There's also calzone, foccaccia sandwiches, risotto and pasta of the day. Today it was orechiette with sausage, I really found it difficult to choose. If you find yourself in that situation and you can't choose - go half|half and have them both.

It's very good value, a decent serving of pizza costs Â£3.50, calzones Â£4 and pasta and risotto from Â£4.50. Have a look at my photos and tell me that's not a good deal!

This branch is slightly bigger and has more room to sit down. It's a casual dining experience and very friendly. It's also super quick and perfect for lunch. Be warned, the Soho shop sells out and closes early every day, I expect this will be the same once people start to discover this place.

Wahaca - review by Niamheen

Mon, 29 Sep 2008 10:51:04 +0000

Wahaca - review by Niamheen

Rating: 3.7

Location: 66 Chandos Place, WC2N 4HG, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7240 1883

Website: http://www.wahaca.co.uk

Tags: lively, cheap eat, crowded, mexican

Let me set the scene. A friend of mine, a new Mum, had arranged a night off, one where she could leave her house for a few hours and indulge, priorities were nice food and cocktails and some company.

I had heard about Wahaca and was keen to try it, I love good Mexican food and it's not something that you can come across without some effort in London. I had heard that this was the real deal, a friend who had lived in Mexico was very impressed and highly recommended it. It's also in Covent Garden, a convenient point for both of us.

Another point of interest was that it was owned by winner of Masterchef, Thomasina Miers, someone I didn't have much affection for on the TV (at the time, she has since won me over with her Cooks Tour of Spain) but her knowledge of the cuisine and quest for authenticity appealed.

So, off we went, knowing the situation, our expectations were wagamama's canteen style eating and a cheap and authentic eat. We expected a queue and weren't surprised to find one. And so we queued.

While queueing we noticed alot of people were passing us out and it wasn't really very controlled. It seemed the guy manning it was more interested in theatrics and having everyone finding him funny than in being professional and efficient. At first I could ignore it, but, half an hour in I was beyond frustrated. Eventually we approached him and arranged to come back an hour later. This apparantly was the system and even though he was only 6 feet away from us, he didn't approach us at any point in that half an hour to tell us so. We trundled off an had a cocktail in nearby La Perla and returned promptly for our table only to be faced with the same scenario of lack of control or knowledge about who in the queue was next or when anyone would get a table.

About to leave, I expressed my frustration politely and it was handled very badly. The customer is always right, no? Not at Wahaca. Someone else took control and seated us, profusely apologising and provided drinks on the house. We had some nice mojitos and started to settle, things were getting better. We ordered some items from the street food menu and the mole. Both were very good, quite light and full of flavour, exactly what I would have expected.

The ambience? The decor is bright and modern, very nice. It's full on of a weekend evening, large groups, birthday parties, lots of noise, so great for groups but not so great if you just want to catch up with a friend. Happy Birthday was sang raucously more than once in our 2 hours here (there was even a tambourine) and while it was great for the birthday boy/girl, I could have done without it.

To sum up: the food is good and it's a vibrant place, nice decor, central location, but, the start of the evening left a sour taste in my mouth and did taint the experience for us. I wouldn't discount it and will try it again but for a nicer mexican street food experience I prefer the more intimate Taqueria in Westbourne Grove.

Atari-Ya - review by Niamheen

Sun, 28 Sep 2008 21:46:37 +0000

Atari-Ya - review by Niamheen

Rating: 4.0

Location: 20 James Street, W1U 1EH, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7491 1178

Tags: lively, good value, quick, central, japanese

When I returned from 10 days in Tokyo last year, I had a bit of a sashimi addiction. I wanted sashimi. I needed it. And I needed it to be every bit as good as that that I had been indulging in in Tokyo.

A tall order you might think, but not for Atari-Ya. They have several locations, but this little outpost off St Christopher's Place delivers. It's tiny with a thriving take away business. You can eat standing at the counter, or if you're lucky, at one of the two small tables to the side of it. Service is quick and very friendly, every inch of the experience is authentically Japanese. It's also very reasonable.I can't resist it and frequently pop in for melt in the mouthy scallop sashimi and hamachi. I recommend that you do too!

San Gennaro - review by Niamheen

Sun, 28 Sep 2008 21:01:03 +0000

San Gennaro - review by Niamheen

Rating: 3.0

Location: 22 Battersea Park Road, SW11 4HY, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7622 0475

I had a really pleasant and authentic Italian meal here recently. The staff were very friendly and efficient and the menu featured a favourite not often featured on menus here - Burrata. It was very reasonably priced and I am looking forward to going again. I'll update my thoughts when I do!

One-O-One - review by Food_Snob

Mon, 22 Sep 2008 06:05:22 +0000

One-O-One - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.5

Location: 101 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RN, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7290 7101

Website: http://www.oneoonerestaurant.com/

Tags: seafood

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/09/15/one-o-one-london/

Text-only Critique:

I love seafood. I eat it every single day, in fact, twice a day. Honest. I cannot even recall the last day I went without fish, mollusc or crustacean. Is that strange? Well, even if it were, I would not change. Never. For no one.

So where in London should such a stubborn slave to seafood go to sate themselves? Straightaway, Scottâ¬"s and J Sheekey come to mind; both specialise in this stuff. I am hard pressed to name more (obviously discounting fish and chip shops). Actually, there is one butâ¬¦am I allowed to tell you? You see, it is sort of a secret; not a calculated, chichi cabal, just somewhere that has happened to become one, slowly, over time, over the last ten years. OK, Iâ¬"ll take the plunge and squeal like a piggy (lovely mingling of metaphors): who has heard of One-O-One? I imagine a disappointed grown from my readers. Fine. I admit that was an anticlimax - if anything, this is Londonâ¬"s worst kept secret; everyone has heard how good it is, but no one goes!

Some chefs are famous for their cooking, some famous for showing and telling as many as they can about their cooking; some even for not showing and telling anyone anything; and then, there is Pascal Proyart. Who? Exactly. Proyart is a self-confessed lover of all food aquatic; the man who first introduced the red king crab to England; and even the Norwegian Seafood Ambassador to the UK (no joke). A choir of critics have sung his praises and fellow chefs esteem him: Chavot (Capital, 2*) thinks that â¬Swhen it comes to fish, no one can touch him in England;â¬

One-O-One - review by Food_Snob

Mon, 22 Sep 2008 06:05:22 +0000

One-O-One - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.5

Location: 101 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7RN, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7290 7101

Website: http://www.oneoonerestaurant.com/

Tags: seafood

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/09/15/one-o-one-london/

Text-only Critique:

Dessert 1: Coupe LiÃ©geoise of Dark â¬ÜManjariâ¬" Chocolate, Coffee and Salt Caramel Ice Cream. Two dark chocolate brownies came straddling a sizeable scoop of salty caramel ice cream, all buried under coffee-cocoa crÃ¨me and atop a heap of honeycomb crumbs, with a dark chocolate shard as decoration. The ethereally light mousse carried a smooth, cool coffee taste, whilst the ice cream boasted of strong toffee. The dense duo of warm, moist brownies were very, very good; the dark Madagascan Manjari was not bitter, but faintly fruity instead. The saccharine honeycomb was brittle and clung affectionately to my teeth. A big mouthful brought with it a wealth of textures and temperatures; from cold to cool to warm and thick to frothy to creamy to crunchy. Digressingâ¬¦is it only me who thinks this looks rather strikingly like a tank?

Dessert 2: Juniper Berries & White Chocolate, Lemon Sorbet and Soft Gin & Tonic Jelly. A triangular sablÃ© biscuit base supported two rustic servings of white chocolate and juniper berry ice cream, upon which sat another triangle, this time a thick white chocolate feuile, decked with a neat quenelle of lemon sorbet; the final flourishes were an oversized biscuit tuile; scattered julienne orange rind; and triplet of gin and tonic jellies with mint leaf. The vertical boldness of this dish seized my attention whilst still across the room, but its purposeful, clear-cut and controlled flavours held onto it once in front of me. The star of the plate was the wonderfully fluffy ice cream pillows; the white chocolate was distinct and unadulterated whilst the berries brought a nice spicy-fruit bang. Every element played its part well: the sablÃ© was crumbly; gin and tonic, refreshing; orange rind, intense; and lemon, clean and sour. Little details like the creamy crack from the feuille, super subtle smearing of strong orange coulis across the plate and cooling mint that cleansed the palate made such a tasty difference.

Petit Fours: Raspberry & Lychee Jelly; White Chocolate Truffle with Pistachio; Coconut Macaron; and Salty Caramel Dark Chocolate Truffle. With the bill came petit fours including good quality jelly which, although I am getting bored of these now, merited some distinction for its exotic lychee essence; poor coconut macaron that had been baked until biscuity-dry; and two truffles, both excellent. First, white pistachio pleased with its mildly nutty, double-cream-like filling, then dark salted caramel delighted with its explosive rich middle.

Throughout, service was faultless and, whilst always attentive and helpful, it warmed up terrifically from a very formal start. All the usual boxes were checked (bread, water, good timing of courses), but there were also unexpected niceties that stood out, such as lemon in the tap water and constant, convincingly sincere smiles from all. Fabio was praiseworthy indeed - he found time to field all my questions, always determined to provide the answer even if he did not know it already; made some sublime selections including the foie gras, halibut and juniper dessert (arguably my favourite three courses!); and was a generally charming and amicable host.

I know some who would object to the food here. I can hear them now complaining that thereâ¬"s too much going on, the dish is too crowded, even that they cannot have meat and fish on the same plate! I disagree; Proyartâ¬"s cooking showed tremendous versatility and lots of confidence. The man obviously knows his fish, having been born in a small fishing village into a family of restaurateurs (going back three generations) and spending six years at Yves Mattagneâ¬"s Sea Grill (2*) in Brussels (then one of the top ten restaurants in the world) before moving to Le Divellec (2*) in Paris. Recently, whilst One-O-One was under refurbishment, he was also able to spend three months touring Europeâ¬"s Michelin-starred restaurants including Les Pres dâ¬"Eugenie (3*). The current menu draws on new ingredients, ideas and techniques garnered on these travels - he has mastered the water bath for one - to deliver traditional dishes improved with modern twists and touches. The food ranges from simple to elaborate, from classic to contemporary, but is always original, well-designed and visually stunning. Unfortunately, there were a couple of slips in the cooking (red mullet and lobster tail), but the foie gras with langoustine and the halibut were absolutely delicious with both desserts deserving special commendation.

All in all, this is some pretty serious cooking by someone determined to make a statement. Well, another statement actually, to go with this one: â¬SMy goal is to get this place two stars, Iâ¬"m really going for itâ¬¦Iâ¬"m ready to prove my point to the London public.â¬

The Ledbury - review by Food_Snob

Tue, 16 Sep 2008 06:49:30 +0000

The Ledbury - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.2

Location: 127 Ledbury Road, W11 2AQ, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7792 9090

Website: http://www.theledbury.com/

Tags: lively, good value, french

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/09/12/the-ledbury-london

Text-only Critique:

Eheu! We are in menu limbo - one of those funny times of the year when one season sluggishly becomes the next. Have you updated your menus recently? Do you know when you will be changing them? I am getting tired of asking these questions, though probably less tired than those having to answer them.

I have spoken to a gaggle of receptionists over the last couple of weeks as my list of eligible dining destinations has been whittled down to those already showcasing their new fall menus (do not ask me why this has become important: maybe, what with such a copious choice of restaurants in the city, any additional parameter that helps make selecting one easier, is welcome; or maybe it is just my OCD acting up). One restaurant that fulfils this criterion happens to be one that has also been on my â¬Ülistâ¬" for as long as I have had a â¬Ülistâ¬". It is also one that I have never heard anything but praise for with an exciting chef of tremendously fast-growing reputeâ¬¦

Aussie Brett Graham has impressed all his life. He impressed at age 15 when he began his cooking career scaling fish at a local Newcastle (Australia) restaurant before moving to Sydney to work under the well-travelled Liam Tomlin. He made an impression here too, winning the 1999 Josephine Pignolet Award as Sydneyâ¬"s best young chef at only 19. This was the impetus for his leap across the seas to London, where he landed at the prestigious Square. He spent the next five years studying under Phil Howard, creating enough of a stir to be awarded Young Chef of the Year by the Restaurant Association in 2003 and being made sous chef in the same year. In 2005, thanks to his continued loyalty and not inconsiderable skill, Howard and restaurateur Nigel Plattâ¬"s-Martin offered Graham the chance to head their latest venture, The Ledbury. He accepted and has since, of course, continued to impress everyone, becoming the youngest Australian to ever win a Michelin star in 2006. Now leading an ambitious, young team of predominantly Aussie cooks (seven of thirteen kitchen staff), Graham is pumping out accomplished, serious, beautiful dishes. His passion, instinctive understanding of food and imagination has left critics and diners drooling and made The Ledbury, all the way out in W11 in what was once â¬Ücrack squareâ¬", a destination restaurant with a faithful foodie following. Graham, who shuns the spotlight, refusing even to table hop, is also respected by his peers: Howard reckons that his success â¬Scomes as no surpriseâ¬

The Ledbury - review by Food_Snob

Tue, 16 Sep 2008 06:49:30 +0000

The Ledbury - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.2

Location: 127 Ledbury Road, W11 2AQ, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7792 9090

Website: http://www.theledbury.com/

Tags: lively, good value, french

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/09/12/the-ledbury-london

Text-only Critique:

With the serious eating done, it was time for a little frivolity. Sadly, satiation was starting to set in, so when the cheese cart was wheeled out, I passed. Generously though, I was still bidden to have a nibble of one or two, but I had to put my foot down here and insist that deserts were brought out.

Pre-dessert: Terrine of Strawberries with Sour Cream, Hibiscus and Warm Vanilla Doughnuts. A jellied brick of strawberry and orange slices, bathing in Hibiscus consommÃ©, was superimposed with a scoop of sour cream ice cream, itself crowned with a strawberry slice tuile; a vanilla beignet was set along the rim of the plate. The tart terrine was highlighted by orange segments which exploded with refreshing juice; the stunning scarlet consommÃ© had a mild tangy-sharpness; and the high-quality sour ice cream cut through the treatâ¬"s saccharinity. However, a superfluous second sour note was struck by the beignet, which though strongly spiced with vanilla, was a little stodgy. Interestingly and pleasantly, this was a miniature of one of the dessert on the menu

Dessert 1: Raspberry SoufflÃ© with White Chocolate and Elderflower Ice Cream. A very fine rendition of a raspberry soufflÃ© was brought bursting forth from a perfect porcelain ramekin. A cute candy cane pinstripe skirted this little extravaganceâ¬"s edge, propping up a neat, sugar-dusted, tangerine top, which was pierced to allow the addition of a cold quenelle of silky smooth white chocolate and elderflower ice cream. The crisp skin concealed a lovely pink mellow middle that secretly hid hot whole raspberry rubies. The tart-sweetness of the fruit was well-tempered by the delicious ice cream. Very good.

Dessert 2: PavÃ© of Chocolate with Sunflower Seeds and Basil. The final dessert consisted of a black brick of dark chocolate, studied with a basil leaf, alongside a mossy-yellow scoop of basil ice cream atop a pasticcio of powdered elderflower, sunflower seeds and Oreo cookie crumbs; precise spots of pistou peppered the plate. The precious pavÃ© of bitter, velvety dark chocolate was lusciously wicked. Sweet, herby ice cream was a great foil for the rich cocoa. The nutty/seedy/Oreo olio was a simple, but effective textural balance. The pistou - a cold sauce of Provence made from cloves of garlic, fresh basil and olive oil - was unusual, but completely bland. Nevertheless, this was an indulgent pleasure.

The chocolate was a great finish to the mealâ¬¦or so I thought. The serveur approached with what I thought would be the offer of tea or coffee, but instead, he had a far more toothsome choice for me: ice cream - sour milk, cardamom and orange, basil and vanilla - or sorbet - pineapple, strawberry and passion fruit - to finish?

Dessert 3: Selection of Sorbet - Pineapple, Strawberry and Passion Fruit; and Thyme BrÃ»lÃ©e with Honey Ice Cream and Chocolate Madeleine. Having sampled most of their ice creams already, I plumped for the latter. A trio of fruity sorbets, each set upon a platform of their respective fruit chunks and embellished with their personal tuiles, came upon a pretty platter. Together, a lovely, thoughtful gift of thyme brÃ»lÃ©e, honey ice cream and cocoa madeleine was served. The excellent sorbets had distinct and superbly clear flavours with delightful garnishes. The brÃ»lÃ©e, with a firm sugary shell and herby, buttery centre, matched well with the honeyed ice cream. The madeleine was a little dense for my liking.

Petit Fours: Chocolate-Banana Macaroon; Eucalyptus Dark Chocolate; Elderflower Marshmallow; and White Chocolate Truffle. The serveuse arrived with a tray of tempting treats which were subsequently served on a bitter bed of cocoa beans. I picked four: a decent macaroon that boasted strong banana essence overpowering its weaker chocolate filling; a good, smooth dark choc; a mild marshmallow with nice consistency; and a crunchy-coasted, creamy-cored truffle of concentrated white chocolate.

I was impressed with the standard and consistency of the meal; nine courses included only a single dud (the sea bass). The starters of mackerel and grouse, the main of venison and the chocolate dessert were all brilliantly made and scrumptious. What I was particularly struck by was the fact that many of the dishes that I tried and enjoyed were made up with ingredients that would not normally be my first choice; for example, mackerel would always lose out to John Dory, turbot and Dover sole; and raspberry, which I thought I was sick of after a summer season surfeit with its sweets. The dishes were, almost without exception, perfect in execution and displayed strong, bold, startlingly clear savours. I also thought that the lack of sauces in Grahamâ¬"s cooking probably meant a much healthier meal than with more classical French cuisine (but whoâ¬"s counting calories?). Instead, he relies on using the natural juices of the meats and fish to accentuate the flavours already present; Grahamâ¬"s eschewal of heavier, thicker saucing is surprising given that he ran The Squareâ¬"s bourgeois sauce station for some time. Additionally, regarding lâ¬"addition, I must comment on what great value it was; actually being one of the cheapest meals I have had in London in sometime! I believe this relatively low cost stems from the absence of some more luxe produce from the menu, though this is made utterly unnoticeable by the quality and freshness of the raw materials actually used (the menu reads like a list of foods currently at their seasonal peak) and the finesse and talent they are used with.

Service was also irreproachable; Luca and his staff were attentive, warm, polite and efficacious in all that they did. Whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted it, there was someone present to provide it; bread was brought over before I even had the chance to request it; never did I thirst for water nor was I ever left twiddling my thumbs awaiting my next course or empty plate to be removed. I was pre-informed that I had the table until a specific time, but when the meal had concluded, we had already overran by almost an hour; however, at no point was I reminded of the time or hurried in anyway. One feels that The Ledbury wants its diners to enjoy themselves and staff will go out their way to ensure this. One memorable moment was when I left my seat to make a phone call and returned to find my napkin and cutlery replaced with a clean set. Another was when I arrived at the restaurant. Whilst my table was readied, I took a seat outside; as I waited, the hostess came out to greet me and struck up a nice little conversation. Itâ¬"s the little touches such as these and many others throughout the meal that make the difference between a good meal and an excellent one.