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Le Gavroche - review by Food_Snob

Thu, 06 Nov 2008 08:48:48 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: romantic, good value, crowded, expensive, french

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/le-gavroche-the-return-london/

Text-only Critique:

It was raining. It was cold. I was at Marble Arch station and I was early. â¬ÜIf I get there too soon, they will make me wait outside till they open,â¬" I thought to myself. But there was nothing else to do, nowhere else to go, so I headed down Park Lane. My toes had become numb from the short walk between Marble Arch and the restaurant, but as soon as I turned left onto Upper Brook Street, my heart, and my belly, were warmed by the fond memories of my last meal here. Instinctively, I started smiling to myself and my gait quickened, footsteps shortened, my heart began to beat a little faster. I felt the cold no longer.

Its discreet door is distinguished only by the simple signage above. As one approaches, a symbolic fleur-de-lis, the Relais & Chateaux logo, and caricature coq gaulois, the arms of the Traditions & QualitÃ© association, assure the diner they have arrived at one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde.

I rang the bell. Promptly one of Le Gavrocheâ¬"s ginger gemini allowed me in. â¬ÜSorry, I am so early,â¬" I yelped, â¬Üis it alright if I wait inside, it is freezing out there?â¬" â¬ÜOf course,â¬" the little lady assured me as she took my coat, â¬Üwe couldnâ¬"t leave you in the cold now, could we?â¬" And to think of the countless times I have been forced to wait outside a restaurantâ¬¦

I sat down on one of the plush couches in the cosy salon. Jumbo macadamias were set beside me and I requested the menu. I was pleased to have some time, before H came, to check le carte and I needed it; every dish read delicious. â¬ÜYouâ¬"re backâ¬" a French baritone boomed in my direction. I looked up. It was Emmanuel. He had recognised me although he had not seen me since July and warmly welcomed me. I felt guilty I had waited so long to return.

Once ready, my greeterâ¬"s ringer escorted me to my table; one of the lovely big, banquetted booths from which one can watch all the action of the dining room unfold. H, who I had not met with since Roussillon, arrived on time. Graciously, he left most of the food selection to me and after checking he had brought with him a healthy appetite, Emmanuel and I set about organising our order. It is late autumn, which means â¬"tis the season for game - jâ¬"adore mon gibier - and the ALC and chef propose were brimming with mouth-watering wild birds. I put forward a few of my preferences and let Emmanuel decide the rest.

Amuse Bouche 1: Langoustine Beignet and Curried Smoked Bacon. A small, shimmering serving-tray supplied our starting amuses of crunchy-coated, juicy langoustines swollen with sea-sweet succulence. I had to handover my enticing, but illicit cup of curried pork to H, who was pretty pleased with the unexpected present.

Les Pains: Country Roll; Rye; Baguette; and Mixed Cereal & Raisin. Artisan bread is bought in from French master-bakers, Bagatelle, but bestowed baking hot - every time. Each variety was good and even better than before. Country roll was crisp and yeasty; the baguette, soft, crusty and proved an effective sponge. I liked most the mixed cereal and rye equally; the wholemeal, triangular raisin rolls were thick and rustic while the rye, deeply flavoured and moist. Butter is sourced from two different purveyors: the super-creamy salted is from Le Gall, in Breton GuÃ©rande and is made with the townâ¬"s famous fleur de sel; and the unsalted is from Sarl Ets Beillevaire, an organic producer in Machecoul in the Loire.

Amuse Bouche 2: Artichoke Beignet, Mixed Salad and Balsamic Vinaigrette. Another amuse of pork mousse quenelle arrived, but informing them I could not eat it, within minutes, this replacement was brought in its stead. Lightly battered, crispy artichoke leaf lay on a bed of micro greens, dressed with balsamic vinegar. The nutty vegetable and vinaigrette balanced the bitterness of the greens, leaving just their fresh bite.

EntrÃ©e 1: SoufflÃ© Suissesse. Cheese soufflÃ© Cooked on Double Cream. Although I had tried this already, I did not resist it sneaking onto our agenda again (plus, it means I can recycle my description from my first post: very lazy, I know). The menuâ¬"s translation does not do this justice. Arguably Le Gavrocheâ¬"s most famous dish, certainly its oldest, this has been on the menu since day one. An ethereal island of rich GruyÃ¨re and cheddar cheese arrived floating upon a deep lake of bÃ©chamel and cream sauces. The initial savoury aroma of the baked cheese confection tantalised the taste buds. The appearance, grandiose and striking yet so precious, almost prevents one from violating that gentle crust, but each ambrosial spoonful that follows brushes all regrets aside. Every moist, indulgent, buttery bite is a palpable step closer towards an early, but richly deserved, grave.

EntrÃ©e 2: Coquille St. Jacques GrillÃ©e, Compote dâ¬"Aubergine et Fleur de Fenouil. Grilled Diver Caught Scallop, Spicy Aubergine, Fennel Pollen and Parsley Coulis. A char grilled, sizeable scallop sat atop spiced aubergine compote and alongside pea shoot salad and beetroot crisp, all upon dark pastel green purls of parsley coulis peppered with fennel pollen. The shellfish, suffused with clean, smoky savour, was soft yet firm. The creamy aubergine, seasoned with mustard seed, had a gentle kick to it, which, together with the peppery, grassy parsley, freshened the whole dish. Sugary-spinach-like, so slightly earthy, crisp pea shoots added some texture while the beetroot, salty and sweet, contributed crunch. Fennel pollen, which I had heard rumours of but not yet tried, was strongly aromatic with a honey-like, flowery taste, smoother than anise. The new, interesting and expensive - similarly priced as saffron, though liberally applied - enhancerâ¬"s light liquorice essence worked well with the scallop.

EntrÃ©e 3: Petit Chausson de Canard Sauvage et Pistaches, ChicorÃ©e Rotie Minute et Sauce Rouennaise. Hot Wild Duck Pie with Pistachios and Roasted Endive Salad. Flaky pastry filled with wild duck and pistachio was accompanied by roast endive in sauce Rouennaise. The pie was perfect: short, buttery crust, lined with moist inner layer and stuffed with steaming, strong, tender duck. The nuts offered mild sweetness and creamy chewiness; whilst the sauce, a Bordelaise (dry red wine, bone marrow, shallots and demi-glace) with purÃ©ed duck foie gras, was deliciously deep. Caramelised endive was delicately bitter and thus a good counterpoint to the richer meat and gravy. The exemplary execution and serious savours made this a wow.

Plat Principal 1: Darne de Turbot GrillÃ©e et Beurre Blanc Ã la Ciboulette. Grilled â¬ÜTâ¬" Bone of Turbot, Chive Sauce, Chick Pea Chips and Courgette Cannelloni. Half a hunky chunk of T-bone Turbot, teamed with chive beurre blanc, came with thick-cut chickpea frites and ratatouille-packed courgette parcels. The charred fillet, flush with woody flavour, was great in texture and taste, its firm, white flesh falling off the fishy-spine in steak-like strips. The hot, buttery sauce, mildly onion and garlicky, was a superb condiment compliment. Ratatouille roll mops were filled with smoky, earthy eggplant, sweet red pepper, tomato and onions. The chips were well-made, but seemed maybe surplus to requirements.

Plat Principal 2: Le LiÃ¨vre Ã la Royale. Classic Braised Stuffed Saddle of Hare and Swiss Chard. Legendary LiÃ¨vre Ã la Royale is soaked in history and tradition and marked as the â¬Ümost mythical meal in French cuisineâ¬". Its actual recipe, however, is much disputed.

Original credit for the creation commonly lies with Senator Aristide Couteaux, who in November 1898, instead of his usual political column in Le Temps newspaper, published directions for a new dish. He reported of his week in Poitou hunting a special hare and, once catching it, taking the Paris train straight to his chef-friend, M. SpÃ¼ller in Rue Favart, famous in his day. Couteauxâ¬"s instructions are retold in Elizabeth Davidâ¬"s A Book of Mediterranean Food: one requires (and I summarise) a hare, â¬Ücleanly killedâ¬¦so not [to] have lost a drop of bloodâ¬"; goose fat; bacon; good wine vinegar; red wine; 20 garlic cloves; 40 shallot cloves; carrot; onion; bouquet garni; plus optional cognac for the hareâ¬"s blood. The meat is stewed for hours in wine and sauce thickened with blood; if properly prepared, it is â¬Üneedless to say, that to use a knife to serve the hare would be a sacrilege. A spoon alone is amply sufficient.â¬" As SpÃ¼ller cooked this, its aroma alone, wafting from the restaurant, apparently had crowds of passers-by sniffing, straining and shoving their way to his door.

However, Henri Babinski, writing in his Gastronomie Pratique (1907) under the brilliant anonym Ali Baba, contested the technique, claiming the animal should be boned, stuffed with foie gras and truffle, simmered slowly in wine and hare stock, with the end result resembling a ballotine served in thick slices with brandy-and-blood-thickened gravy.

And, of course, there is a third way. Prosper Montagne, in Larousse Gastronomique (1938), states the hare be stuffed with a mixture including truffles, goose foie gras and hare blood and giblets, before being braised in white wine and briefly browned in the oven.

Now, that was either Q.I. or quite boring, so let me return to Le Gavroche, whose chefs follow, fittingly, Ali Babaâ¬"s ten-page preparation (probably because Couteauxâ¬"s civet demands seven days spent hunting and seven hours in the kitchen). The ballotine of boned, foie gras-stuffed saddle of hare, sitting in red wine and blood sauce strewn with wild mushrooms, was served with Swiss chard gratin. The hare was lusciously strong and gamey; its dark red meat, robust and dense, contrasted well with the sweeter, softer foie gras-filling. Sticky, potent, powerful bloody gravy was lip-smackingly good and added essential moisture to le liÃ¨vre. The nutty, creamy GruyÃ¨re gratin of earthy chard was savoury-sweet and cheesy-rich, complementing the similarly earthy and nutty, plump mushrooms.

Plat Principal 3: Perdreau RÃ´ti en Cocotte Ã lâ¬"Alsacienne. Roast Partridge with Sauerkraut, Roast Potato and Alsace Bacon. Whole partridge, roasted then baked in a sealed pot with its accompanying vegetables, was presented en cocotte, then carved tableside. Half the bird, roasted potato pair, Chantenay carrot couple and sauerkraut serving were plated then dressed with brandy jus for each of us (normally Alsace bacon would also be included). The plump partridge had moist, tender flesh with delicate, subtly gaminess whilst the brandy, blended with jus roti, made for a lovely, not overpowering sauce. Carrots were crisp and honey-like; potatoes, roasted perfectly; and sour cabbage had nice smokiness. This delicious dish, in Alsatian style - which explains the Germanic influence - was soft yet satisfying; all the simple elements gelling gently and comfortably together.

Le Gavroche - review by Food_Snob

Thu, 06 Nov 2008 08:48:48 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: romantic, good value, crowded, expensive, french

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/le-gavroche-the-return-london/

Text-only Critique:

Dessert 1: Petite Tarte Tatin aux Pommes et Glace Ã la Vanille de Madagascar. Classic Upside Down Caramelised Apple Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream. Scrumptious apple tarte tatin, adorned with two fat quenelles of Madagascan vanilla ice cream and split sprig of vanilla pod, was encircled with aureoles of salted caramel. This salty-sweet sauce was as sticky as the crisp puff pastry that imprisoned soft, hot poached pommes. The heat from the tart slowly warmed the spoonfuls of thick ice cream, causing them to melt and mizzle over it, mingling with the caramel. The vanilla aroma and essence was felt instantly, the fragrant bouquet lingering pleasingly. Softness contrasted with crunch; hot with cold; sugary with salty; everything was just right, just rich enough; an irresistible dessert.

After gobbling down those yummy tartes tatin, Emmanuel surprised us with the offer to revisit the kitchen and watch the chef de patisserie prepare our second sweets, Hâ¬"s Oeufs Ã la Neige and my Omelette Rothschild. Like giddy schoolgirls we leapt from our table and skipped after him into cette cuisine connuâ¬¦

It was jolly good fun watching all those chefs at work, plus as it was getting late and dinner service was coming to an end, things were winding down and people were fairly at ease, joking with each other, joking with us. All made us welcome, from Head Chef Rachel Humphries - who was running the show superbly in Michelâ¬"s absence - down to the commis chefs.

The chef de patisserie took us under his wing whilst Emmanuel returned to the dining room. The chef then led us step by step through how to make my famous soufflÃ©. He whipped the egg whites; mixed the Cointreau with crÃ¨me patisserie; then whipped the two together. The fluffy, white meringue outcome was then scooped into a small pan; browned golden on the hob; then placed into the 180Âº oven for three/four minutes. Concurrently, we were able to see a millefeuille made and tarte tatin too. Once our desserts were done, Emmanuel came to fetch us and after thanking and saying goodbye to probably fifteen people, we finally sat down to enjoy the fruits of otherâ¬"s labours.

Dessert 2: Omelette Rothschild. Apricot & Cointreau SoufflÃ©. Not surprisingly, there are again two different stories of how this treat was invented. One relates that the omelette was originally made for the Baron (James Meyer) de Rothschild by CarÃªme in the 1820s. The other tells us that it came about during the Rothschild familyâ¬"s visit to a restaurant, when they demanded apricot soufflÃ© desserts. The chef, lacking soufflÃ© bowls, decided to prepare the mixture on the stove before covering and placing it in the oven and thus producing a thick pancakeâ¬¦whichever of these, if either, is true, the recipe was most certainly picked up by the senior Rouxs during their time as chefs to the Rothschild family after first arriving in London.

At this stage, I had already eaten seriously too much, but resisting was futile and I did not even want to try. Michelâ¬"s own words came to mind, â¬Üwhatever you have been eating before, even if you feel you have no more room for dessert, there is always room for soufflÃ©.â¬"

This graceful gossamer gift, a bright alabaster bubble dotted with tiny dark dots of vanilla seed and tinged ochre in the oven, was tilted over a cluster of Cointreau-soaked dried apricots and drizzled in thick apricot-Cointreau sauce, then double cream, at the table. Emmanuel watched over as my serveuse poured; â¬Ünon, non, you need more, you must have more, more is better, non?â¬" he winked as he took over the pourerâ¬"s post. The soufflÃ©, at first trembling as I teased her with my spoon, willingly succumbed to my pleasure once I penetrated her subtly tanned skin. It was everything I could have asked for: consummate in consistency - feather-light, smooth and spongy - and tasty on the tongue - delicately fruity and vanilla-rich. The mellow marshmallow-like delight was doused in contrastingly strong, thick sauce that boasted warm, orange, apricot sweetness, cut through by double cream. Plump apricots, with velvety veneers, were soft, deep and when bit, burst forth intoxicating juice. Clearly, I liked it, but I will let Michel have the final words, â¬ÜOooh gosh!â¬"

Petit Fours: CanelÃ©, Macarons de CafÃ©, Groseilles Vertes SucrÃ©es and Tuiles Poivre Noir et SÃ©same. A collection of macarons de cafÃ©, canelÃ©s, groseilles vertes sucrÃ©es and tuiles pavot sÃ©same accompanied our desserts. The macarons had good texture and taste. The groseilles (physalis), caramel-dipped and coconut-laced, had been transformed from soft fruit to hard-husked, molten-cored flavour grenades. The tuiles, made simply of sesame, black pepper and corn syrup, were crunchy, light and sticky; the pepper, replacing the previous poppy seeds, gave these a nicely spicy aftertaste. The best I saved till last: the canelÃ©s. Soft, tender custard centre; dark, thick caramelized crust; je les aime. Each breaking bite through that firm, crisp, tennÃ© coat, into the golden, vanilla, mushy egg mush in the middle, made me happier and the more I ate, the better they tasted. These are possibly my very favourite pastry.

It is clear I enjoyed it loved it. But how could I not? The menu is full of enticing choices and must-order dishes. These include both ones from Le Gavrocheâ¬"s own stable of nigh-forty-year-old classics - SoufflÃ© Suissesse, Omelette Rothschild, Mousseline de Homard au Champagne et Caviar are always there, plus Oeuf CarÃªme in the summertime, and Daube de Boeuf too - as well as those from the wider French tradition; like La LiÃ¨vre Ã la Royale, which I have never seen on offer outside France. On top of this, the ingredients are simply the best that can be found and the cooking, faultless. It was even an improvement on my last visit when, for instance, desserts were the weakest part of a great meal, but that could not be said again; both sweets were sublime and tonight Michel was not even in the kitchen! The food, though, was only part of what made this meal so memorable. Even had the grub been half as good, I would still have had a terrific time thanks to the staff.

At Le Gavroche nothing ever changes. Normally. However, in my absence, after 37 constant and outstanding years in office, the legendary maÃ®tre dâ¬"hÃ´tel, Silvano Giraldin, had retired. Such a potentially disruptive event could have easily and seriously unsettled the FOH. It did not. But this is no discredit to Silvano, instead it is a compliment to his successor, Emmanuel LandrÃ©; and to be honest, though I loved the service before, it too was better this time roundâ¬¦

Dining here is an experience, an occasion, made thus by, above all, the staff who, I must say, in my opinion, offer the best service in London. At Le Gavroche, it is all about the guest and making sure that they feel comfortable and enjoy their meal. Making a quick penny, actually letâ¬"s not forget where we are, a quick ten-pound-note, is the last thing on their minds. For example, Emmanuel could have easily served us each full portions and thus doubled the restaurantâ¬"s money, but instead, he arranged for us to share almost every plate. This not only lightened our bill, but meant we could first, try every dish we wanted, and secondly, not become ill from over-eating! Such consideration I have seen in only one other place, Passardâ¬"s lâ¬"ArpÃ¨ge (3*) in Paris. And needless to say, the whole behind-the-scenes adventure speaks for itself, but was obviously much-appreciated and will be fondly remembered.

For me, dining at Le Gavroche is like coming home. It is not that I am a â¬Üregularâ¬" - which makes it all the more remarkable - but rather the warm, welcome feeling I get being pampered and fed in my favourite restaurant in town.

I know not all will agree, not all have shared such a time, but, to be blunt, I do not care. I can only write of what I know and that is my experience and my opinion. And I think that Le Gavroche is so good, so very, very good.

43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR
tel: 020 7408 0881
nearest tube: Marble Arch
www.le-gavroche.co.uk

Le Gavroche - review by intoxicating

Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:40:53 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by intoxicating

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

â¬ÜWho are Michelin? -They don't pay the bills, the customers doâ¬¦â¬"
[Maitreâ¬"d, Silvio Girardin, who retired last month after serving 33 years. A fair man, apparently, although not one to cross. To upset him was to quash dreams of working in Londonâ¬"s better restaurants]

WHEN I collapsed into bed a few hours following a long lunch at â¬ÜLe Gavrocheâ¬" I was greeted by an ominous snap. Apparently a slat under the mattress had committed suicide under my heavy bones. The latest casualty to my tabletop adventures? -Nothing an RSJ cannot fix, I supposeâ¬¦

This immensely enjoyable vault of gastronomy, begun in the â¬Ü60â¬"s and relocated in the early â¬Ü80â¬"s (without losing a dayâ¬"s trading) is unanimously credited with introducing fine French fare into the mash and SPAM-strewn capital. Before it, the Michelin scoreboard read â¬ÜLondon: nul pointsâ¬"; today there are nearly 50 stars, two of which belong to â¬ÜGavrocheâ¬" (as Michel Roux Jnr. puts it). Even if you have not been, you will have digested its influence, which percolates like haute couture. The revered incubator has inspired a myriad of inspiring chefs. Alumni include: Rowley Leigh, Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing and Gordon Ramsay.

Elegance is ingrained within these walls. However whilst the public facing areas are as calm as a Gallic cucumber, the experience of working in the engine room would petrify mere mortals. In his first autobiography, â¬ÜHumble Pieâ¬", Ramsay wrote: â¬ÜI know of at least one chef who used to sleep in the kitchen, Sunday nights, so he was ready for the next morning. Thatâ¬"s how the regime affected you if you werenâ¬"t on top of thingsâ¬¦â¬"
Unfortunately, I was not firing on all cyclinders when I met my friend, Will, in the upstairs clubby tartan nook cum holding pen. Having stretched the previous evening into morning with a gaggle of Trusted Places bloggers, where booze flowed undamned, alas not a millilitre of ABV would pass my lips this lunchtime. A shame considering Gavrocheâ¬"s cellar features no fewer than 50,000 bottles (with more bins in bond).

We sat at the reflective brass counter facing the painting of Gavroche, the little urchin from â¬ÜLes Miserablesâ¬" who lent the restaurant his name. The story goes that the child needed a warm haven free from the prostitute peppered streets. Le Gavroche is meant to be that place. The ragamuffinâ¬"s story was not one of rags to riches, however...

A silver tray featuring a lightly curried quailâ¬"s egg convoyed our drinks. Dehydrated, I gulped an instantly replenished sparkling water.

As a direct threat to my bank account, we chose the â¬ÜMenu Exceptionnelâ¬", which extends to eight courses excluding the fripperies which topped and tailed. Once planted in the very softly lit forest green dining room, amidst scentless orchids, deep pile carpet and eclectic art relevant to the restaurantâ¬"s autobiography, I became mesmerised by our centrepiece. The outstandingly repellent frog was formed of recycled silver cutlery (yours for Â£1,500). Our forks had chef figures set into their handles. In the kitchen, eighteen real ones toiled to engage 65 diners. In the dining room, the ratio was one waiter to three guests. A sheer payroll, yes, but essential should you want to play 'drop the napkin'.
After under-seasoned, boring bread from Bagatelle, we were under starters orders. A lettuce trireme of Lobster with Mango, very ripe Avocado, Basil and Lime was mildly invigorating. The closing taste was sweet mango. This was partnered with what I know to be a classily packaged but unbalanced South African Chenin Blanc/Viognier from Vondeling. I know that Roux occasionally feeds artisan beers into his menu, matching, for example, Liefmanâ¬"s cherry with spicy seared tuna. Every liquid collaborator was vinous today, however, including at least three mature vintages. Temporarily tee-total, I relied on Will to relay the conversation between the matches.

SoufflÃ© Suisses is a signature starter which, rather like â¬ÜThe Archersâ¬", fanatics will not allow to die. It is certainly no beauty, resembling scrambled brains. Cooked on double cream, this lactic extravaganza consisted of â¬Sabout a 1000 calories a spoonful¬. It was surprisingly â¬Üopen planâ¬" on the palate, however, aerated in fact, with the puffed Gruyere and cheddar dissolving like candyfloss.

I thought I could smell this dish minutes before it arrived. It transpired that the well-endowed cheese cart was garaged next to us; our pungent neighbour for the duration. To gently paraphrase Will, he said that the oak matured, dense ten year-old Champagne dominated by raspberry and white truffles, echoed the richness of the dish, whilst also tensely scything through.

To follow, Grilled Scallops were adorned with Spicy Aubergine, Parsley Coulis the colour of the walls and Fennel Pollen, which looked like crushed pistachio. This was my first time with Fennel Pollen. It reminded me of the â¬ÜOmnivoreâ¬"s 100â¬", a list circulated to various bloggers, inviting them to mark which of the variously bizarre foodstuffs they had eaten. However nattily devised, it did not feature wild fennel pollen. The author is probably sucker for a nip of â¬ÜPiritolâ¬". Anyway, the â¬Üspice of Angelsâ¬" can be as expensive and potent as saffron â¬ not that you would know that considering Gavrocheâ¬"s easy hand. The best comes from coastal California. One writer describes it as a magic powder which â¬Ütransforms ordinary dishes into extraordinary onesâ¬". There are copious chefs who could argue that to so fuss a singularly sublime scallop is heretic and conceited. Perhaps, although I encountered a mesmerising semblance of astonishingly complementary, vibrant flavours all tufted around the firm marshmallow textured scallop. This was matched with a bravely mature, herb scented ProvenÃ§al pink.

Apart from the cost of them, tasting menus raise two further concerns. Considering the hiatus required to deliver numerous courses of food and wine and to explain them in often impenetrable accents, conversation halts. Secondly, it becomes hard to plan a loo break. And leaving midway through a dish is bad behaviour.

A properly sized, spectacular slab of succulent, tender, buttery Foie Gras was warm. This was not cursorily moussed giblets from the back of the battery barn, but the cream of a precise process originating from the Egyptians. On top, a wittily alcoholically saturated green grape (my hair of the dog), and alongside, a cinnamon scented crisp pancake filled with thinly torn duck. The sommelier recited details of the vinous match, a flaxen coloured, broad, rose and talc scented Alsatian Gewurtztraminer, with the elan of a candidate sitting an exam.

Lustrous, tenderly braised ox cheek, liberated and divided from its pot at table initially looked intimidating. Surely this would be too hearty, too stodgy? It was actually uplifting. Its fronds parted at the gentlest of pats. Parsnip purÃ©e retained a little nutty texture and a brisk flavour. I could taste the damp forest in the ceps. Minutely cubed bacon was vigorously smoked. More of the beef juices were soused. Will and I took an almost embarrassingly long time to inhale the collage. A smart Hermitage accompanied.

Minervois in magnum eased the passage of the requisite cheese course. Driven by the deputised big cheese, the trolley covered the couple of feet to our side. The pressed, rolled and ripened specimens looked ravishing. Each was named (in fact the labels were one of the few items in Gavroche not to bear the â¬ÜGavrocheâ¬" insignia). The assortment of slender biscuits made the bread at the beginning look ever more tedious.

A Tuscan truffle scented with rum was complimented by one of the few reds to heighten the sublime, spreading, melting texture of chocolate: lush, chilled red Banyuls.
Gloriously sticky, puff pastry, caramel circled Apple Tarte Tatin was punkily skewered by a baked Madagascan vanilla pod. This had been masochistically split several times most likely by a lackie tacked to his station. A lozenge of vanilla ice cream slowly dissolved alongside. Le Gavrocheâ¬"s own sticky from the legendary Klein Constantia region smelt like drying mangoes.

With good coffee which curdled filmically when cream was introduced, we were cluster bombed by two courses of petits fours (â¬Sjust in caseâ¬).

I felt excitement entering the restaurant. On leaving it I felt full (but fully contented too). Despite wholesome rather than artistic presentation, the cooking had been tender. The atmosphere, smart, but never hushed.

Incidentally, Will bought a signed book of Michel Rouxâ¬"s food and wine matching tome for his girlfriend. Such is the respect that the Roux's have acquired, I am told that she almost fainted when she saw it was signed.
If she had seen our bill, she would have needed smelling salts...

Le Gavroche - review by allyclaxy

Sun, 07 Sep 2008 13:33:37 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by allyclaxy

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: french

We went for the set menu with a half a bottle of wine and water that they offer monday to friday - there was 2 of us and after 5 beautiful courses we had to agree that the Â£110 spent was the best ever. The wine was amazing (which we didnt expect) and the food and service impeccable. We also liked the fact that we were not rushed at all even though we were not purchasing off the full menu. There are 3 choices for each course so plenty to go on - we have booked again for october!!

Le Gavroche - review by Food_Snob

Thu, 06 Nov 2008 08:48:48 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: romantic, good value, crowded, expensive, french

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/06/27/le-gavroche-london/

Text-only Critique:

The Le Gavroche. That is not an error that is emphasis. Londoners owe It a debt of gratitude. A huge debt. Before Its arrival, fine dining did not exist in the city. Eating well was not a priority/desire/care; â¬Üwe knew nothing of the British indifference to food because we had only ever cooked for the rich,â¬" Albert Roux has admitted. It was the sixties and Albert and younger brother Michel, already in London as personal chefs to the Cazelet and Rothschild families respectively, saw their opportunity. With their former employers turned patrons, Le Gavroche was established in 1967 and It changed everything.

Today such rudimentary ingredients as foie gras are taken for granted by luxury diners. However, when Le Gavroche first opened such foods were simply not available in England: Madame Roux herself would drive to France and smuggle foie gras and poulet de Bresse across the Channel and through customs. In fact, these selfsame diners should also be grateful to Le Gavroche for even having the choice to dine Ã la Michelin. It was the first English restaurant to be awarded a star, two stars and of course, the first to win three. Before Le Gavroche, London had no stars. Now, it has 45.

Although not Londonâ¬"s oldest, nor most expensive, no longer even the most starred - It only (only?) has two at the moment â¬ Le Gavroche is a hallowed name; a little ironic given that gavrocheâ¬"s literal translation is urchin (delightful French faux-modesty). It is arguably the single most influential, most monumental, most revolutionary restaurant to have ever graced Londonâ¬"s dining scene. To appreciate this, one has only to consider the many chefs who have worked their way through Its kitchen: Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Wareing, Phillip Howard, the list goes on and on and on. Le Gavroche symbolises the best of the best, the finest of the fine, la crÃ¨me de la crÃ¨me â¬ just the thought of It makes me smile â¬ and it is for me, one of the greatest gastro-experiences London has to offer.

Understandably therefore, for a long time, I was almost too worried to dine here; too worried that I might waste such a precious experience. I was simply unable to bring myself to spontaneously dine at Le Gavroche; that would be disrespectful. Over time however, my timidity naturally cowered to my curiosity â¬ so much for self-discipline and control â¬ and I decided to make reservations for the soonest special occasion available: Mumsyâ¬"s birthday. Calling a week in advance, I booked dinner for three the following Friday. Nonetheless, just in case, I also rang Gordon Ramsay @ RHR and PÃ©trus, but only made it onto their waiting lists: at least this way, should one of these become available, I could still â¬Üsaveâ¬" Le Gavroche.

As bad luck would have it, the day before dinner and her birthday (subconscious ordering of priorities here â¬ I am a bad, bad person), Mumsy fell ill and though it was nothing too serious (so no need for well-wishing comments etc, she will be fine), it was enough to prevent her going to dinner. Dilemma: confirm for one or cancel? Give in or hold out? I am weak, I am selfish, I am a gourmand: I didnâ¬"t just bite the solid gold bullet, I ate the whole damn thing and confirmed. I shall not deny it, it felt good. (For the record, sneaky PÃ©trus did try and test me, offering me a table last minute, but taking PÃ©trusâ¬" someoneâ¬"s anyoneâ¬"s sloppy seconds over Le Gavroche would be insolence personified. I declined).

All Friday, I was as giddy as a schoolgirl. It was like Christmas Eve: I was full of nervous energy and had no way to expend it. Needless to say, the seconds past slower, the minutes lasted longer and the hours never ended: it was a long day.

Patience paid off and eventually I found myself outside 43 Upper Brook Street, a nondescript town house: humble, discreet, unpretentious, just like Its orphan tramp namesake and perfect for Le Gavroche. Scaffolding even hid the â¬ÜLe Gavrocheâ¬" name and only the symbolic fleur-de-lis, the Relais & Chateaux logo, was visible.

Once through the fey portal, one is transported into a small, posh salon where one can order an aperitif, enjoy some canapÃ©s and peruse the menu. When ready, one is escorted downstairs into the main dining room. The atmosphere is very gentlemanâ¬"s club; furnishings are very soft; lights are very dim; the ceiling is very low; it is all very French. As Spartan as the exterior is, the interior is Croesian. Between plush green walls, low-backed claret-fabric chairs surround generously-spaced tables, each draped in heavy, pristine-white napery upon which polished silver glistens. Tables are garnished with a sterling salt-holder offering both sel gris and regular salt, a brass candle-holder, a small wooden pepper grinder and even a sterling sculpture of some creature unique to each table (mine was a lovely big fish). The silverware is monogrammed with a little chef figure and the crockery carries a caricature of the young Michel Roux Jr. The room has not changed with the times, permitting critics to label it out-dated, faded, even run down (the nerve!). However, fashion is something Le Gavroche is supremely indifferent to. In todayâ¬"s times, when restaurants are designed by architects and minimalism is celebrated, It revels in being too decorated, too indulgent, too flowery and instead of posturing to fashions, It prefers to allow fashions to return to It, as they probably will, eventually.

After taking my seat along the comfy banquette, my senses swelled with the smell of sweet flowers; gladiola, pussy willows, orchids and rubrum lilies, whose large, fresh, (more) green, (more) red bouquets adorned the walls and intoxicated diners, were the first flavours of my dinner. There is no music â¬ it is almost too serious for that â¬ instead there is the gentle clinking of cutlery upon crockery. The staff, possibly outnumbering the guests, were formally dressed and French. Emmanuel, my serveur en chef, welcomed me. He was refined, slick, obliging; I felt in good hands. I warned him that I came to enjoy an obscenely indulgent meal, but needed help constructing a carte sur mesure. At once he set to work and after a lengthy discussion, wherein he demonstrated great patience and consideration, we settled upon a three-entrÃ©e-one-plat-principal-two-dessert menu. After dispatching my order (and probably as it was still early and quiet), I was offered a chance to see the kitchen which, after feigning only a polite curiosity for the staffsâ¬" benefit (I was totally tickled on the inside), I accepted.

Nervous and eager, I followed Emmanuel into the inner sanctum: I was about to pop my restaurant-kitchen cherry with the Casanova-Don-Juan-Romeo-all-rolled-into-one of restaurants. This was, after all, the Roux kitchen; a name that is the natural heir to Escoffier and CarÃªme and run by the very dauphin of the family, Michel Roux Jr. Michel is a real chefâ¬"s chef, preferring to lead his kitchen instead of running a business empire or making television programmes. He approached. He greeted me. I tried to act suave and cool. I barely managed to mumble something about what a pleasure it was to meet him. He continued asking me questions. I continued gushing barely coherent responses. However, his super-friendly, relaxed, easy manner meant this did not last long. He showed off his kitchen as we discussed topics from dining to football; it was all quite charming. Even his accent was disarming: he speaks like a typical Londoner, which coming from a man whose food is more French than most of that found in France, was unexpected. However, Michel was brought up an Englishmen; something that has not manifested itself in his cookery. Along with the cooking gene, he also inherited a love of and allegiance to classic French cuisine from his father, Albert. In fact, the food, probably a little lighter than it was, is now even more French. Anyhow, (gently refocusing the narrative on me) after Michel wished me bon appÃ©tit, I was returned to my table and the adventure was allowed to continueâ¬¦

Amuse Bouche 1: Millefeuille de Foie Gras. Two squares of foie came enrobed in wafer-thin layers of pastry. The very delicate, slightly sweet foie melted in the mouth, whilst une feuille simple ou deux of pastry teased the palate with a flaky, crunchy texture. As mentioned in previous posts, I am not overly keen on pÃ¢tÃ©s, terrines, rillettes and the like, but this was not at all bad.

Amuse Bouche 2: Fromage Bleu sur de Pain de Gingembre. A whip of blue cheese studied with candied fruit was served atop a thick gingerbread cracker. The formidable cheese, fridge-firm initially, yielded quickly enough, but the sticky cracker proved rather resistant, finally betraying only a weak taste of ginger. The mousse/crunch contradiction was brought into play once more.

Amuse Bouche 3: Rouleau de Printemps de Canard. A translucent spring roll of coarsely shredded duck, flavoured with oriental spices, was accompanied by compote of aubergine. The duck, springy almost in texture, was uncompromising in taste: the birdâ¬"s natural savour combined with the Chinese sauce to make it spicy, rich and sweet. The earthy aubergine complemented the spring roll well. This dish hinted at Chef Rouxâ¬"s proclivity for Oriental cuisine, surely picked up whilst working in Hong Kong in his earlier days.

Les Pains: After les amuses came and went, the bread basket arrived, offering four choices: country, cereal, brown and white baguette. Each was warm, each beautifully bucolic in appearance but, though decent tasting, lacked an essential lightness and fluffiness. I probably preferred the brown, which was rather dense and had a very organic taste. Both salted and unsalted butters supplemented the bread.

EntrÃ©e 1: SoufflÃ© Suissesse. Cheese soufflÃ© cooked on double cream. The menuâ¬"s translation does not do this justice. Arguably Le Gavrocheâ¬"s most famous dish, certainly its oldest, this has been on the menu since day one. An ethereal island of rich Gruyere cheese arrived floating upon a deep lake of bÃ©chamel and cream sauces. The initial savoury aroma of the baked cheese confection tantalised the taste buds. The appearance, grandiose and striking yet so delicate, almost prevents one from violating that gentle crust, but each ambrosial spoonful that follows brushes all regrets aside. Each moist, indulgent, buttery bite is a palpable step closer towards an early, but richly deserved, grave.

EntrÃ©e 2: Gratin de Langoustines et Escargots au Persil et Pimet dâ¬"Espelette. Three plump escargots lay with six lazy langoustines curled up in a heavenly waterbed of hollandaise sauce enlivened with Basque pepper and parsley. Each element came together perfectly, complementing and contrasting different flavours and textures, to seduce the eater. This inspired and original reinvention of the â¬Üclassicâ¬" surf-â¬"nâ¬"-turf combined deep, earthy, mushroom-like snails and their smooth, sweet, seafaring cousins, the candy-like langoustines. The introduction of pimet dâ¬"Espelette gave the dish a lovely Pyrenean-peppery heat and the sour lemon zest and unctuous eggy creaminess of the hollandaise provided a cooling balance. Each drowning petite prÃ©cieux, once rescued from the amber emulsion, oozed bubbling-warm buttery goodness from every orifice. This dish was a delicious wow.

EntrÃ©e 3: Escalope de Foie Gras Chaud et Pastilla Ã la Cannelle. A thick, generous lobe of foie gras and open pancake fat with thinly shredded duck came resting atop a berry coulis; this was another example of Rouxâ¬"s affection for the Orient. The exotic, sweet smell of warm cinnamon from the pancake was the first flavour hit; it enticed the eater in. My second taste was the pancake itself whose perfectly crafted, crisp pastry cracked to uncover rich, intensely-spiced, densely-packed canard laquÃ©. My attention and my knife then turned on the foie; upon piercing the lacquered burgundy seared skin, the blade literally fell through the milky, melting middle. The sour sweet berry coulis tempered the luscious meats. This was the best foie gras I have ever had and another wow.

Plat Principal: CÃ´te de Veau RÃ´tie aux Morilles, Chartreuse de LÃ©gumes et Pommes Mousseline. A whole rib of roasted French veal was carved tableside and plated with a carrot and haricot vert chartreuse and a helping of mashed potato, over which a creamy morel sauce was generously poured. The liberal rib cut, cooked until chocolate auburn outside, concealed a tender rosy pink core. Slicing open the cleverly constructed chartreuse revealed the lightest, airiest spinach puree. The pommes had great consistency; creamy and buttery with just a touch of palate-clinging stickiness to allow the serious savouring of any lingering sapour.

The star of the dish, however, was the magnificently ugly mushrooms. Each morel morsel was a taste explosion; a taste so distinct, yet so difficult to articulate. A mottled mix of earthy, nutty, smoky and sweet tones only offers a hint to their genuine flavour. These spongy, honeycomb enigmas swam in a thick bitter sweet jus that proved an excellent foil.

Dessert 1: SoufflÃ© aux Fruits de la Passion et Glace Ivoire. A perfect passion fruit soufflÃ© came served with luxurious white chocolate ice cream. The precisely and adeptly executed delicacy would not be confined to its white porcelain prison, rising to expose its crisp, but fragile lemon chiffon sugar-dusted skin. Upon presentation, this delicate skin was ruptured and warm passion fruit sauce was poured into the open wound, on top of which a thick scoop of ivory ice cream was nestled. The soufflÃ© had impeccable consistency; smooth, fluffy and mellow. The passion fruit gave a strong citric sweetness, which was cooled by the incredibly flavourful, balsamic ice cream; no small feat given that white chocolate is one of the harder flavours to instil and is so often lost. Passion fruit seeds, hidden like buried gems at the ramekinâ¬"s base, added an unexpected crunch. The soufflÃ©, as to be expected with passion fruit, was very rich and very intense, forcing me to enjoy second (and third) helpings of ice cream.

Dessert 2: La DÃ©gustation aux Framboises. This marathon meal was concluded in mini-epic manner with a raspberry-themed collection of mini-gourmandises: Beignet au Coulis; SoufflÃ©; Sorbet; and Millefeuille. The arrangement was delightful; a veritable feast for the eyes. Unfortunately, the one error in execution (that I observed anyway) happened during the final course: the beignet (â¬Üraspberry coulis with warm sugar-coated jam doughnutâ¬"), instead of light and fluffy, was heavy and hard. However, this is but a niggling point and can easily be overlooked. Next, I enjoyed another excellent mini soufflÃ©, followed by a refreshing sorbet, which rested upon a bed of dark chocolate embers. The shift from hot, soft, sweet soufflÃ© to cool, hard, sour sorbet manipulated textures, temperatures and tastes. Finally, I progressed to the refined and dainty millefeuille, crafted from thin dark chocolate wafers, ripe raspberries and scrumptious crÃ¨me Chantilly.

CafÃ© et Petit Fours: A collection of canelÃ©s, macarons de noix de coco, groseilles vertes sucrÃ©es and tuiles pavot sÃ©same accompanied my strong, creamy smooth espresso. The macarons had good texture and taste; coconut essence is also difficult to capture well. The groseilles (physalis), caramel-dipped and coconut-laced, had been transformed from soft fruit to hard-husked, molten-cored flavour grenades. The tuiles, made simply of sesame, poppy and corn syrup, were crunchy, light and sticky, but did not have me picking seeds indelicately out of my teeth (surprisingly and pleasingly). The best I saved till last: the canelÃ©s. Soft, tender custard centre; dark, thick caramelized crust; je les adore. Each breaking bite through that firm, crisp, tennÃ© coat, into the golden, mushy egg mush in the middle, made me happier and

The Brown Dog - review by Ludovic

Tue, 26 Aug 2008 15:41:01 +0000

The Brown Dog - review by Ludovic

Rating: 3.2

Location: 28 Cross Street, SW13 0AP, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8392 2000

Website: http://www.thebrowndog.co.uk/

Tags: posh, gastro pub, mature, cool & smart, young professionals, beer garden, different pub food

We went back to the Brown Dog the other day, hoping to confirm it's the next Victoria (in Temple Sheen) as the latter had gone madly overpriced. We were disappointed by this gastropub, feeling the quality had slipped. Good, still good value but no longuer special in our opinion. Annie's not far away knows how to cook good meat blue (why is it a challenge to explain this to Eastern-European waitresses?)

The wine list is OK, just. Food is of European and French influences, perfectly recommendable. For instance I had cod with tapenade, very well done.

The Brown Dog - review by Corky

Wed, 07 May 2008 08:49:19 +0000

The Brown Dog - review by Corky

Rating: 3.2

Location: 28 Cross Street, SW13 0AP, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8392 2000

Website: http://www.thebrowndog.co.uk/

Tags: relaxed, gastro pub, mature, excellent pub food, beer garden, friendly

This is my local, so I have a slight interest, but I'm never disappointed with a visit here. My wife tries to persuade me to visit one of the many alternatives in Barnes, but there's no place like it for a relaxed Sunday lunch.

Top notch!

The Brown Dog - review by blueandblue

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 16:13:51 +0000

The Brown Dog - review by blueandblue

Rating: 3.2

Location: 28 Cross Street, SW13 0AP, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8392 2000

Website: http://www.thebrowndog.co.uk/

Tags: relaxed, gastro pub, mature, standard pub food

Our trip to TBD was as a group of four. We all love to cook and eat. As TBD is a local our hopes were high.
The interior is quaint and sets a homely railway pub atmosphere. The crowd on our night were all 40+ and the place was packed.
My first choice of main was already sold out at 8.30 and the rest of the menu was un-adventurous leading three of us to choose the same dish.
All starving, we asked for a bowl of chips/French fries for the table A.S.A.P and then waited over an hour until anything arrived, the chips arriving with our starters.
As hungry as we were no one was at all impressed with their starter and the chips were the only dish to get any praise. Unfortunately the mains were just as lame. A first for our outings was that nobody, except me, finished their dish, my wife gave up after a few mouthfuls, the word "stodgy" was used
It was exactly the sort of food the English used to be laughed at for cooking. Sure it was all seasonal but without any flavour or finesse, it was plain to the point of being unpleasant to eat.
At Â£22 a head plus wine it was far from expensive but we all left hungry and very disappointed. The waitress did apologised and said that they were short in the kitchen that night and offered us all free desserts, which we declined in favour of coffees.
Other than that we had a great night.

Le Gavroche - review by gastro1

Sat, 08 Mar 2008 16:44:23 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by gastro1

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: french, business, crowded, expensive

I have had some of my best meals in London in Le Gavroche both in Sloane Street and Mayfair.

The best beef cheek stew ever served with an amazing mouseline of potatoes as well as superb pan fried scallops with thin crispy vegetables and a touch of oriental spice.

It has remained at the top of fine French cuisine right through to Albert Roux handing over to his son Michel Roux Jr -despite losing it's third star at handover for me it was just as good for a few years - However this is no longer the case since around 2005 and I am not sure why ?

I suspect Michel is more interested in running Marathons and working out in the gym which is fine if like Ramsey at Royal Hospital Road you have sme of the best young talent wrking the stoves.

The Brown Dog - review by sue

Sun, 29 Jul 2007 19:25:33 +0000

The Brown Dog - review by sue

Rating: 3.2

Location: 28 Cross Street, SW13 0AP, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8392 2000

Website: http://www.thebrowndog.co.uk/

Tags: gastropub, dog, gastro pub, international, family & home feel, beer garden, independent pub

The Brown Dog is a gorgeous little gastropub hidden on a narrow residential street in Barnes. The fairly plain façade hides a colourful interior decorated in a mixture of design styles (note the odd combination of chandeliers and large retro-looking copper light fittings) along with the standard gastropub décor of scruffy looking tables and chairs. There is a small garden at the back, and a cute dog in residence.

We stopped by on a whim for lunch one Sunday - luckily we were early else I doubt we would have gotten a table without a booking. We were given a friendly greeting, and service was relaxed but efficient throughout our meal.

Alex started with the Foie Gras & Gressingham Duck Terrine with Fig & Black Cherry Chutney. It was a decent sized serve and got the thumbs up. Main courses were the Chargrilled boneless Quails with peas, pancetta, grellot onions, lentils & mint for him, and the Whole Lemon Sole with beurre noisette, brown shrimps, capers and samphire for me. Both meals were a good size, nicely cooked and well presented. My only complaint would be that there were way too many capers for my taste, though the samphire made up for it.

Unfortunately we didn't have room to try the famed Sticky toffee pudding, but I guess that just gives us a good excuse to return!

The Brown Dog - review by freddie5540

Wed, 01 Aug 2007 14:12:37 +0000

The Brown Dog - review by freddie5540

Rating: 3.2

Location: 28 Cross Street, SW13 0AP, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 8392 2000

Website: http://www.thebrowndog.co.uk/

Tags: good value, gastro pub, beer garden

A fantastic gastro-pub!! The bar is decorated in a homely fashion with up-turned wine cases making a shelf filled with books and games for the customers. There is an interesting collection of photos and cuttings hanging on the walls. Outside is a cute garden with more interesting pieces scattered around. It has the feel of a smoking garden waiting for the ban.

The food is well executed simple fare. Potted shrimps, rillettes. A lovely dish of duck breast with roast peach and watercress, potato and shallot salad. A mediteranean vegetable 'stack' was packed with flavour. Sticky toffee pudding is to die for and must be had by anyone who visits.

Alround a lovely place to go, look out for Mr Bojangles (the resident dog) and if you want bring your dog for a dried pigs ear available at the bar.

Le Gavroche - review by wyahaw

Fri, 18 May 2007 22:33:02 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by wyahaw

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

It is indeed one of the very top restaurants in London, right up there in the top five. A detailed review can be found at:

http://www.andyhayler.com/show_restaurant.asp?id=311&country=UK

Le Gavroche - review by nainishb

Fri, 18 May 2007 14:36:56 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by nainishb

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Over-rated, especially for price

Le Gavroche - review by freddie5540

Tue, 15 May 2007 17:41:19 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by freddie5540

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: expensive

There is a reason why this restaurant has been open for over 35 years, its bloody good!! The Gavroche could win anyone over with its impeccable service and ultra-refined cooking.

Silvano has been plying his trade here since the very beginning and is in full command of his dining room. Michel Roux jnr is a master behind the stoves. On my visit i had the pleasure of meeting him. I walked into the kitchen, unnannounced to find him on the pastry section preparing what i think was a souffle mix.

We ate like kings, the fricasse of langoustines with ginger that i ate was a lesson in subtle cookery with just the slightest hint of the fragrant ginger behind the sweetness of the perfectly cooked langoustine. A little butter sauce and delicate cucumber finished it off. My companion devoured a globe artichoke with foie gras and black truffles. I tasted it and wished i had ordered it myself! A fillet of beef with foie gras and white truffle maccaronni cheese followed for me. It was rich and satisfying, balancing strong flavours well. Whole lobster with jersusalem artichokes and wild mushrooms was magnificent, my partner again ordering very well.
We finished with the chefs selection of desserts allowing you to sample several of the a la carte dishes. Delicious.

The service is attentive yet not overwhelming. The room a grand, dimly lit basemnent in Mayfair. You get the feeling that many an important decision has been made under this roof. When your food arrives and the waiters lift of the kosh, it is like a ceremony.

We dined on Valentines day and were not surprised to see a proposal at a table opposite and every woman in the restaurant received a long stemmed red rose, very slick!

Very expensive, yet faultless. A part of London food history.

Le Gavroche - review by Hugo

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 05:34:05 +0000

Le Gavroche - review by Hugo

Rating: 4.5

Location: 43 Upper Brook Street, W1K 7QR, London, United Kingdom

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: french, poplular, souffle, tie, formal, michelin, roux, treat, exceptional, business, traditional, delicious, expensive

Nothing like being contraversial but this is certainly the finest restaurant I have ever eaten at in London.

Founded by the Roux duo in 1967 it was the first UK restaurant to be awarded 3 michelin stars, so you might expect something special. Now run by Michel Roux Jr and Silvano I have to say that I have never experienced anything quite like it (true to say that I am probably not well versed in eating in such pampered environs). You are literally waited on hand-over foot and the food is a sensation. I have been a few times now and I always forget quite how good it is. I object to paying huge amounts of money for posh restaurants and feel a skeptical as I approach the table but each time I have been won over. The food is a dream and the things that I have had that have wowed me especially are the souffles...in fact it was all exceptional. Each time it feels like a genuine treat and I am quite surpised at how good it is.

If I sound a little over the top it is because it is. Maybe it should be at the price but you get what you pay for.