St. John - St John � Twice as Nice by laissezfare

laissezfare — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 18:16:44 +0000

Review by laissezfare

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7251 0848

Website: http://www.stjohnrestaurant.com/

[Non-photo Review]

For full review go to: http://wp.me/pwXBH-tC

St John â¬ Twice as Nice

The gist of it: St John serves simple, honest, delicious food that brings out the best of what its often humble ingredients can be. The dining space mirrors head chef Hendersonâ¬"s paired down philosophy and is reminiscent of a posh school canteen for grown-ups...in a good way. The thing about St John is that, while itâ¬"s brilliant, there should be places like this in every town across the UK, where you can find well-cooked everyday dishes that wonâ¬"t blow the bank. Itâ¬"s the kind of food you might have gotten at your Nanâ¬"s or Auntieâ¬"s house in days gone by, and itâ¬"s not rocket science, after all. If you havenâ¬"t been, by all means go, if only to taste the marrow and sample one of their brilliant puddings. I just canâ¬"t believe there arenâ¬"t more places like this in London and elsewhere throughout Britain.

Sundays at St John

St John had been on my hit list for a long time â¬ too long. So, when the weather began cooling and the days got darker, and when my stomach began craving for heart-warming comfort food, I happily discovered that St John was open for Sunday lunches. What a brilliant idea, I thought, and promptly booked myself in for the upcoming weekend.

I think that most readers of this blog will already know as much (or more) about St John, and its head chef Fergus Henderson, than I do, so I will spare you all of the literally gory details here. Suffice to say that the original outpost is located just opposite the Smithfield meat market in 1994 and that the building was formerly a smokehouse. Henderson is well-known for his â¬Ünose-to-tail eatingâ¬" philosophy (in fact, this was the title of his first cookbook), and the interior of the restaurant mirrors his style of food: it is paired down, simple and honest.

In 2003, Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver opened a second branch, imaginatively called St John Bread and Wine, near Spitalfields market (spot the trend?). The original restaurantâ¬"s baking operations had outgrown its existing baking capabilities, so this new site took care of the new baking needs and also housed a smaller, less formal restaurant serving food and drink throughout the day.

As you will read further down, Mrs. LF and I so much enjoyed our first visit to St John that we immediately booked Sunday lunch for the very next week upon leaving. So this review comprises two meals on two consecutive Sundays.

Meal 1: Initiation

It was a typically bleak autumn afternoon as we made our way East to the City of London, gliding stealthily beneath its dragon-crowned gates in the anonymity of the Circle Line. I had only ever seen St John from the outside, and didnâ¬"t realize there was a little bakery and bar on the ground floor, with the main restaurant on a slightly raised level up a small flight of stairs.

We made our way up and found the place to be about half full but with a nice but quiet buzz about it. Our waitress took us to our little table for two, which was nestled very cosily against the right wall. After being given the paper menu (a good deal of the dishes change every day, with only a few fixtures/signature dishes such as the infamous marrow), we were served some bread. It was a wonderful loaf of sourdough with a great crust and bags of perfect sourdough flavor. We loved it. And one of my unofficial rules that normally holds true in restaurants is that, if the bread is excellent, there is a very good chance youâ¬"re in for some good food, too.

We eventually ordered and took stock of the place. It is pretty much what I expected. Stark, basic, and mostly white. Industrial looking light fixtures, bistro-style wooden chairs, paper table cloths on top of the real ones, silverware that you can tell has been well used, waiting staff in kitchen whites. But most importantly, all of the diners there seemed to be genuinely having a good time. It was a posh school canteen for grown-ups.

After attempting to turn my eyes into binoculars while peering past the pass in the kitchen, to see what offal tricks these culinary wizards were conjuring, and soaking everything in, our efficient waitress came back with our starters.

Starter 1: Roast Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad
And what a starter. Phwoah â¬ just look at those bad boys! This was the signature dish I had been waiting to order. Despite my expectations being ridiculously high for what is after all a very simple dish, I was not let down one bit. This was one of the best and most satisfying things Iâ¬"ve shoved down my gob in recent memory. It just worked on every level. The marrow was rich and smooth, with a half liquidized fat texture. Spread across the perfectly toasted bread (which was the right thickness for the dish), sprinkled with a bit of that chunky gray salt, and topped off with a good dose of fresh parsley and onions (with a faultless vinaigrette), I was eating way too fast. You had richness that was accented by salt and shot through the heart with fresh green acidity; you had smooth, you had crunchy you had chewy. It was all thereâ¬¦for about 2 minutes that is. Mrs. LF concurred and, had she been able to stomach it, would have had much more of it than she did (thank God she is slim and didnâ¬"t have the stomach for it!). No doubt, 10/10.

Starter 2: Split Pea Soup
Meanwhile, she was slurping up another wonderfully simple and rustic dish, a bowl of split pea soup. And what it lacked in looks, it certainly made up for in taste. It was one of the best pea soups Iâ¬"ve had, hands down. Pure sweet pea flavor, perfectly seasoned, with a great thick but not-too-thick texture, we couldnâ¬"t really fault it. Mrs. LF informed me that when she was growing up in the Normandy countryside, they often began their meals with a simple vegetable soup, and she thought it a great start to the meal. 9/10.

Main Course 1: Ox Heart, Carrots & Aioli
For my main course, I ordered something I had never eaten before â¬ we were in St John, after all. The ox heart had been masterfully cooked, being seared on the outside but with a very soft and buttery core (zoom in on the second photo to see what Iâ¬"m talking about), and I loved the way it felt in my mouth. The taste was quite full-on; after all, it is a frigginâ¬" heart weâ¬"re talking about. It is quite a lean meat (being a muscle), and you can taste its high mineral content on your palate (itâ¬"s high in both iron and copper), but not unpleasantly so. It had a nice little accompanying sauce and a lovely aioli on the side, which was good because it needed a little kick from time to time. I could see how eating the meat itself could become monotonous after a while as for me it wasnâ¬"t like a sumptuous steak youâ¬"d keep coming back to again and again without relief. For this reason the aioli and the simply cooked sweet carrots were well thought-out partners. Overall, I was really glad I tried this dish and enjoyed it. Would I order it again? Not necessarily, but it was well worth the experience. 7/10.

Main Course 2: Smoked Eel, Beetroot & Horseradish
Mrs. LF couldnâ¬"t believe how good her dish of smoked eel was, and neither could I when I tasted it. She commented that it had a â¬Srich and strong taste of eel, yet it was perfectly balanced, so flavorsome and distinct and unlike any other seafood dish Iâ¬"d had. The beetroot, which I never really loved before, was outstanding; it was as if they had marinated or cooked in some kind of vinegar, and that sharpness was the perfect accompaniment for the intense taste of the eel. I truly enjoyed this dish for its authenticity and honesty. 10/10.â¬

Dessert: Plum Jelly & Shortbread
The puddingsâ¬¦oohâ¬¦the puddings. My god, they all sounded so simple, so satisfying, so good. But alas, as one of Catherine Tateâ¬"s characters might say, â¬Swe was well fullâ¬ by then. So we decided to split one and rolled the dessert dice. Thank God we came up trumps.

We simply loved this dessert. It was a perfect jelly â¬ firm yet with a bit of wobble â¬ whose creators had achieved the miracle of blissful balance between the sweet and tart. But jelly on its own is not a proper pudding. Luckily, the good folks at St John agreed, and provided some cooked plums on the side, as well as a dollop of thick cream and two of the best rectangles of homemade shortbread Iâ¬"ve had. Just like the marrow, salad and toast â¬ it just all worked together. We wanted another one, but in the end, we were good little adult canteen goers. 9/10.

Meal 2: Conversion?
With an overwhelmingly positive first meal at St John, we were back the next Sunday, same bat time, same bat channel. But could Fergusâ¬" kitchen charm us twice?

Starter 1: Squid & Tomato
I had also heard good things about their calamari, and as they were on the menu that Sunday, I went for it. I was a bit underwhelmed. They were a little firmer than I thought they should be, but had good, sweet flavor and were well seasoned (like everything else at St John). The peppery rocket and sweet tomato provided good contrasts in both taste and texture, and I ate it quite happily though it was nothing compared to those towers of shins the week before. 6/10.

Starter 2: Pea & Ham Soup
Given Mrs. LFâ¬"s previously mentioned predisposition for a simple potage as the opening to the show, she again opted for the pea soup, although on this day there was some ham too. It was again an extremely satisfying soup which did everything it could possibly have. 9/10 once again.

Main Course 1: Whole Grouse with Bread Sauce & Grouse PÃ¢tÃ© on Toast
Being bang in the middle of grouse season, I thought I would have my first grouse of the year, and for that matter, my first grouse ever so far as I can remember. I knew that this bird has a very pronounced flavor, and I hoped I would like it. I was delighted to see that when I cut into the meat, it had been skilfully cooked â¬ perfectly reddish-pink in the middle. It did indeed have a strong flavor, which is quite hard to describe if youâ¬"ve never had it. Gamey and rich, I did enjoy it but didnâ¬"t fall in love. It does have a wonderful texture to it, though. I liked it best when eaten with some bread sauce (I needed that sweetness), and while Iâ¬"m sure youâ¬"d be hard pressed to find a better grouse that was better cooked in the UK, I just donâ¬"t think this bird is my bag. Saying that, the accompanying little slice of crispy toast with grouse pÃ¢tÃ© was divine, and they were right to only include one as it was insanely rich. I will give it a 7/10 because I think it was a well-executed dish but one whose main component wasnâ¬"t really to my taste.

Main Course 2: Braised Hare & Mash
Of her main course, Mrs. LF said: â¬SI chose this dish because I love rabbit, and since I never had hare before I thought that it would have similar taste to rabbit but in a more gamey way, which I imagined Iâ¬"d like. And like it I did. It had that raw, rural feel to it that reminded me of French boeuf mode (although not with beef!). The hare was perfectly braised, with the meat threading off the bone, and the rich sauce with its bits of carrots and onion was rustic and just right. 9/10.â¬

After being mildly disappointed so far, more with my menu selections than with the cooking itself, I was looking forward to those glorious puddings even more.

Dessert 1: Poached Plums & Spiced Ice Cream
After much heated debate, I had finally opted for the poached plums. After the success of last weekâ¬"s dessert, I was again a little let down with this course. Not that it was bad, far from it. It just didnâ¬"t deliver that punch I had been expecting. The plums were well poached and had a nice sweet and sour flavor about them. The ice cream was pleasant if a bit forgettable, and the toast was a good vessel for soaking up the juice of the plums. But the real reason for my mild state of depression was that Mrs. LF was going on about how great her dessert was. So, being me, I started to pillage and plunder, which didnâ¬"t go down too well. I would give the plums 7/10.

Dessert 2: Baked Egg Custard & Blueberries
Yes, now this was the business. This is what I had been dreaming about, another proper pudding that could hold its weight against last weekâ¬"s finale. The custard was thick, sweet and extremely more-ish. This was especially the case when you ate it in tandem with a little bit of the sweet blueberry compote. And those shortbreads were back again, there for dipping, dunking, defiling. As the little dog from the Churchill ad says, â¬SOh, yesâ¬. So we had our happy ending, the meal had been pulled back from the brink of slight disappointment. 9/10.

Parting Thoughts & Shots

Despite the fact that I didnâ¬"t particularly like some of what I ordered on our second visit, St John now holds a special place in both my, and my fair ladyâ¬"s, heart. We love the simply prepared and delicious food and the placeâ¬"s complete and utter lack of pretence. As I mentioned before, you get the best of what these often modest ingredients have to offer at St John. And if you like one of the meats or fish in particular, they are almost guaranteed to make a great dish out of it for you. I think their puddings deserve a special mention, because they are just so satisfying â¬ no tricks, gimmicks or unnecessary components, just plain good combinations.

One thing we did discuss at the end of our second meal was the fact that while most people think of St John as a thoroughly British affair, weâ¬"re not quite so sure. Of course, Henderson is a British chef, and some of the ingredients (i.e. the grouse I had) are native to the British Isles. But Mrs. LF reckons that the majority of the cooking techniques in the kitchen are, at their heart, those of good French home cooking. To wit, the flawless vinaigrette on my parsley salad, the hearty potages and the sauces. And she was also quick to point out that Britain is not the only country that utilizes a wide range of cheaper cuts of meat in its menus, as French country and bistro cooking does as well. Sure, the puddings are mostly British, but I think the woman makes a good point.

Another thing one might consider is the fact that some people reckon that St John is the 14th best restaurant in the world. While I would say it is probably a unique restaurant in my experience with London dining establishments â¬ and maybe the wider UK â¬ I think that, if true, this is a very sad fact.

Again, Mrs. LF piped up with some insightful thoughts, saying: â¬SYes, it is unique, but it shouldnâ¬"t be. There should be loads of places like St John all over the country. Itâ¬"s not rocket science after all. Not everyone wants poncy fine dining, but people should have ready access to this kind of food â¬ theyâ¬"re not cooking foie gras, caviar and truffles, are they? Every single town in England should have a place like St John â¬ I mean, why donâ¬"t British pubs, those ancient symbols of tradition, serve food like this? St John represents the things that are disappearing from our lives (not just in Britain, but in France too), where once upon a time you could eat like this every day, even at your family table. I mean, this is the kind of food youâ¬"d go to get at your best Auntieâ¬"s or Grandmaâ¬"s house.â¬

And this is unfortunately what makes St John unique; it is exactly that kind of amazing home cooked food that we should all be having much more of, both at home and when we decide to eat out.

But whatever the case, what is clear is that St John is surely worth a visit. For my money, I canâ¬"t imagine a better place to enjoy a leisurely Sunday lunch in the din of winter.

And one last thing. If you do believe it is the 14th best restaurant in the world, it is certainly pretty easy to get a table here compared to some of the others on that list. So go already.

Rating

Ambience: 8/10

For full review go to: http://wp.me/pwXBH-tC

St John â¬ Twice as Nice

The gist of it: St John serves simple, honest, delicious food that brings out the best of what its often humble ingredients can be. The dining space mirrors head chef Hendersonâ¬"s paired down philosophy and is reminiscent of a posh school canteen for grown-ups...in a good way. The thing about St John is that, while itâ¬"s brilliant, there should be places like this in every town across the UK, where you can find well-cooked everyday dishes that wonâ¬"t blow the bank. Itâ¬"s the kind of food you might have gotten at your Nanâ¬"s or Auntieâ¬"s house in days gone by, and itâ¬"s not rocket science, after all. If you havenâ¬"t been, by all means go, if only to taste the marrow and sample one of their brilliant puddings. I just canâ¬"t believe there arenâ¬"t more places like this in London and elsewhere throughout Britain.

Sundays at St John

St John had been on my hit list for a long time â¬ too long. So, when the weather began cooling and the days got darker, and when my stomach began craving for heart-warming comfort food, I happily discovered that St John was open for Sunday lunches. What a brilliant idea, I thought, and promptly booked myself in for the upcoming weekend.

I think that most readers of this blog will already know as much (or more) about St John, and its head chef Fergus Henderson, than I do, so I will spare you all of the literally gory details here. Suffice to say that the original outpost is located just opposite the Smithfield meat market in 1994 and that the building was formerly a smokehouse. Henderson is well-known for his â¬Ünose-to-tail eatingâ¬" philosophy (in fact, this was the title of his first cookbook), and the interior of the restaurant mirrors his style of food: it is paired down, simple and honest.

In 2003, Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver opened a second branch, imaginatively called St John Bread and Wine, near Spitalfields market (spot the trend?). The original restaurantâ¬"s baking operations had outgrown its existing baking capabilities, so this new site took care of the new baking needs and also housed a smaller, less formal restaurant serving food and drink throughout the day.

As you will read further down, Mrs. LF and I so much enjoyed our first visit to St John that we immediately booked Sunday lunch for the very next week upon leaving. So this review comprises two meals on two consecutive Sundays.

Meal 1: Initiation

It was a typically bleak autumn afternoon as we made our way East to the City of London, gliding stealthily beneath its dragon-crowned gates in the anonymity of the Circle Line. I had only ever seen St John from the outside, and didnâ¬"t realize there was a little bakery and bar on the ground floor, with the main restaurant on a slightly raised level up a small flight of stairs.

We made our way up and found the place to be about half full but with a nice but quiet buzz about it. Our waitress took us to our little table for two, which was nestled very cosily against the right wall. After being given the paper menu (a good deal of the dishes change every day, with only a few fixtures/signature dishes such as the infamous marrow), we were served some bread. It was a wonderful loaf of sourdough with a great crust and bags of perfect sourdough flavor. We loved it. And one of my unofficial rules that normally holds true in restaurants is that, if the bread is excellent, there is a very good chance youâ¬"re in for some good food, too.

We eventually ordered and took stock of the place. It is pretty much what I expected. Stark, basic, and mostly white. Industrial looking light fixtures, bistro-style wooden chairs, paper table cloths on top of the real ones, silverware that you can tell has been well used, waiting staff in kitchen whites. But most importantly, all of the diners there seemed to be genuinely having a good time. It was a posh school canteen for grown-ups.

After attempting to turn my eyes into binoculars while peering past the pass in the kitchen, to see what offal tricks these culinary wizards were conjuring, and soaking everything in, our efficient waitress came back with our starters.

Starter 1: Roast Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad
And what a starter. Phwoah â¬ just look at those bad boys! This was the signature dish I had been waiting to order. Despite my expectations being ridiculously high for what is after all a very simple dish, I was not let down one bit. This was one of the best and most satisfying things Iâ¬"ve shoved down my gob in recent memory. It just worked on every level. The marrow was rich and smooth, with a half liquidized fat texture. Spread across the perfectly toasted bread (which was the right thickness for the dish), sprinkled with a bit of that chunky gray salt, and topped off with a good dose of fresh parsley and onions (with a faultless vinaigrette), I was eating way too fast. You had richness that was accented by salt and shot through the heart with fresh green acidity; you had smooth, you had crunchy you had chewy. It was all thereâ¬¦for about 2 minutes that is. Mrs. LF concurred and, had she been able to stomach it, would have had much more of it than she did (thank God she is slim and didnâ¬"t have the stomach for it!). No doubt, 10/10.

Starter 2: Split Pea Soup
Meanwhile, she was slurping up another wonderfully simple and rustic dish, a bowl of split pea soup. And what it lacked in looks, it certainly made up for in taste. It was one of the best pea soups Iâ¬"ve had, hands down. Pure sweet pea flavor, perfectly seasoned, with a great thick but not-too-thick texture, we couldnâ¬"t really fault it. Mrs. LF informed me that when she was growing up in the Normandy countryside, they often began their meals with a simple vegetable soup, and she thought it a great start to the meal. 9/10.

Main Course 1: Ox Heart, Carrots & Aioli
For my main course, I ordered something I had never eaten before â¬ we were in St John, after all. The ox heart had been masterfully cooked, being seared on the outside but with a very soft and buttery core (zoom in on the second photo to see what Iâ¬"m talking about), and I loved the way it felt in my mouth. The taste was quite full-on; after all, it is a frigginâ¬" heart weâ¬"re talking about. It is quite a lean meat (being a muscle), and you can taste its high mineral content on your palate (itâ¬"s high in both iron and copper), but not unpleasantly so. It had a nice little accompanying sauce and a lovely aioli on the side, which was good because it needed a little kick from time to time. I could see how eating the meat itself could become monotonous after a while as for me it wasnâ¬"t like a sumptuous steak youâ¬"d keep coming back to again and again without relief. For this reason the aioli and the simply cooked sweet carrots were well thought-out partners. Overall, I was really glad I tried this dish and enjoyed it. Would I order it again? Not necessarily, but it was well worth the experience. 7/10.

Main Course 2: Smoked Eel, Beetroot & Horseradish
Mrs. LF couldnâ¬"t believe how good her dish of smoked eel was, and neither could I when I tasted it. She commented that it had a â¬Srich and strong taste of eel, yet it was perfectly balanced, so flavorsome and distinct and unlike any other seafood dish Iâ¬"d had. The beetroot, which I never really loved before, was outstanding; it was as if they had marinated or cooked in some kind of vinegar, and that sharpness was the perfect accompaniment for the intense taste of the eel. I truly enjoyed this dish for its authenticity and honesty. 10/10.â¬

Dessert: Plum Jelly & Shortbread
The puddingsâ¬¦oohâ¬¦the puddings. My god, they all sounded so simple, so satisfying, so good. But alas, as one of Catherine Tateâ¬"s characters might say, â¬Swe was well fullâ¬ by then. So we decided to split one and rolled the dessert dice. Thank God we came up trumps.

We simply loved this dessert. It was a perfect jelly â¬ firm yet with a bit of wobble â¬ whose creators had achieved the miracle of blissful balance between the sweet and tart. But jelly on its own is not a proper pudding. Luckily, the good folks at St John agreed, and provided some cooked plums on the side, as well as a dollop of thick cream and two of the best rectangles of homemade shortbread Iâ¬"ve had. Just like the marrow, salad and toast â¬ it just all worked together. We wanted another one, but in the end, we were good little adult canteen goers. 9/10.

Meal 2: Conversion?
With an overwhelmingly positive first meal at St John, we were back the next Sunday, same bat time, same bat channel. But could Fergusâ¬" kitchen charm us twice?

Starter 1: Squid & Tomato
I had also heard good things about their calamari, and as they were on the menu that Sunday, I went for it. I was a bit underwhelmed. They were a little firmer than I thought they should be, but had good, sweet flavor and were well seasoned (like everything else at St John). The peppery rocket and sweet tomato provided good contrasts in both taste and texture, and I ate it quite happily though it was nothing compared to those towers of shins the week before. 6/10.

Starter 2: Pea & Ham Soup
Given Mrs. LFâ¬"s previously mentioned predisposition for a simple potage as the opening to the show, she again opted for the pea soup, although on this day there was some ham too. It was again an extremely satisfying soup which did everything it could possibly have. 9/10 once again.

Main Course 1: Whole Grouse with Bread Sauce & Grouse PÃ¢tÃ© on Toast
Being bang in the middle of grouse season, I thought I would have my first grouse of the year, and for that matter, my first grouse ever so far as I can remember. I knew that this bird has a very pronounced flavor, and I hoped I would like it. I was delighted to see that when I cut into the meat, it had been skilfully cooked â¬ perfectly reddish-pink in the middle. It did indeed have a strong flavor, which is quite hard to describe if youâ¬"ve never had it. Gamey and rich, I did enjoy it but didnâ¬"t fall in love. It does have a wonderful texture to it, though. I liked it best when eaten with some bread sauce (I needed that sweetness), and while Iâ¬"m sure youâ¬"d be hard pressed to find a better grouse that was better cooked in the UK, I just donâ¬"t think this bird is my bag. Saying that, the accompanying little slice of crispy toast with grouse pÃ¢tÃ© was divine, and they were right to only include one as it was insanely rich. I will give it a 7/10 because I think it was a well-executed dish but one whose main component wasnâ¬"t really to my taste.

Main Course 2: Braised Hare & Mash
Of her main course, Mrs. LF said: â¬SI chose this dish because I love rabbit, and since I never had hare before I thought that it would have similar taste to rabbit but in a more gamey way, which I imagined Iâ¬"d like. And like it I did. It had that raw, rural feel to it that reminded me of French boeuf mode (although not with beef!). The hare was perfectly braised, with the meat threading off the bone, and the rich sauce with its bits of carrots and onion was rustic and just right. 9/10.â¬

After being mildly disappointed so far, more with my menu selections than with the cooking itself, I was looking forward to those glorious puddings even more.

Dessert 1: Poached Plums & Spiced Ice Cream
After much heated debate, I had finally opted for the poached plums. After the success of last weekâ¬"s dessert, I was again a little let down with this course. Not that it was bad, far from it. It just didnâ¬"t deliver that punch I had been expecting. The plums were well poached and had a nice sweet and sour flavor about them. The ice cream was pleasant if a bit forgettable, and the toast was a good vessel for soaking up the juice of the plums. But the real reason for my mild state of depression was that Mrs. LF was going on about how great her dessert was. So, being me, I started to pillage and plunder, which didnâ¬"t go down too well. I would give the plums 7/10.

Dessert 2: Baked Egg Custard & Blueberries
Yes, now this was the business. This is what I had been dreaming about, another proper pudding that could hold its weight against last weekâ¬"s finale. The custard was thick, sweet and extremely more-ish. This was especially the case when you ate it in tandem with a little bit of the sweet blueberry compote. And those shortbreads were back again, there for dipping, dunking, defiling. As the little dog from the Churchill ad says, â¬SOh, yesâ¬. So we had our happy ending, the meal had been pulled back from the brink of slight disappointment. 9/10.

Parting Thoughts & Shots

Despite the fact that I didnâ¬"t particularly like some of what I ordered on our second visit, St John now holds a special place in both my, and my fair ladyâ¬"s, heart. We love the simply prepared and delicious food and the placeâ¬"s complete and utter lack of pretence. As I mentioned before, you get the best of what these often modest ingredients have to offer at St John. And if you like one of the meats or fish in particular, they are almost guaranteed to make a great dish out of it for you. I think their puddings deserve a special mention, because they are just so satisfying â¬ no tricks, gimmicks or unnecessary components, just plain good combinations.

One thing we did discuss at the end of our second meal was the fact that while most people think of St John as a thoroughly British affair, weâ¬"re not quite so sure. Of course, Henderson is a British chef, and some of the ingredients (i.e. the grouse I had) are native to the British Isles. But Mrs. LF reckons that the majority of the cooking techniques in the kitchen are, at their heart, those of good French home cooking. To wit, the flawless vinaigrette on my parsley salad, the hearty potages and the sauces. And she was also quick to point out that Britain is not the only country that utilizes a wide range of cheaper cuts of meat in its menus, as French country and bistro cooking does as well. Sure, the puddings are mostly British, but I think the woman makes a good point.

Another thing one might consider is the fact that some people reckon that St John is the 14th best restaurant in the world. While I would say it is probably a unique restaurant in my experience with London dining establishments â¬ and maybe the wider UK â¬ I think that, if true, this is a very sad fact.

Again, Mrs. LF piped up with some insightful thoughts, saying: â¬SYes, it is unique, but it shouldnâ¬"t be. There should be loads of places like St John all over the country. Itâ¬"s not rocket science after all. Not everyone wants poncy fine dining, but people should have ready access to this kind of food â¬ theyâ¬"re not cooking foie gras, caviar and truffles, are they? Every single town in England should have a place like St John â¬ I mean, why donâ¬"t British pubs, those ancient symbols of tradition, serve food like this? St John represents the things that are disappearing from our lives (not just in Britain, but in France too), where once upon a time you could eat like this every day, even at your family table. I mean, this is the kind of food youâ¬"d go to get at your best Auntieâ¬"s or Grandmaâ¬"s house.â¬

And this is unfortunately what makes St John unique; it is exactly that kind of amazing home cooked food that we should all be having much more of, both at home and when we decide to eat out.

But whatever the case, what is clear is that St John is surely worth a visit. For my money, I canâ¬"t imagine a better place to enjoy a leisurely Sunday lunch in the din of winter.

And one last thing. If you do believe it is the 14th best restaurant in the world, it is certainly pretty easy to get a table here compared to some of the others on that list. So go already.

Rating

Ambience: 8/10

Fish Central - No brainer - come here for perfect battered fish by ilovelucy

ilovelucy — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 16:24:12 +0000

Review by ilovelucy

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7253 4970

Website: http://www.fishcentral.co.uk/

Tags: lively, seafood, good value

My parents were coming to visit me at work one Friday afternoon and I asked them what they fancied to eat for lunch. "Its a Friday so Fish and Chips of course!" Dad replied. I set about searching for reputable fish and chips in the vicinty and luckily came across Fish Central which was not too far from my office and had really excellent reviews. We were not disappointed. The restaurant looked great. I was expecting a greasy spoon cafe, with bolted down chairs along sticky tables. It was not at all like that. Although there was the familiar lingering smell of a chippy the restaurant had an air of minimalist class - white walls, white chairs - interesting artwork though it carried no airs and graces. The menu was extensive with fried fish dominating it and specials adorned the blackboard. There was a lunch specials menu for Â£10 - 3 courses i think however my dad opted for the cod and chips, and mushy peas. I went for the special - hake and chips and mum chose the other special of grilled turbot with roasted winter vegetables with a creamy tarragon sauce. It was pricier that your average eat-in fish and chips shop - with our dishes ranging from Â£9 to about Â£13 (mum's) but apparently their fish is sustainable and the quality was probably was the best we had tasted in a long time. The fish was really fresh and kept its shape well. The batter was perfect, very light, not too thick. The portions were huge - my hake was about a foot long! Unfortunately the chips weren't so memorable as the fish was the real star of the plate. Mum enjoyed her turbot too. What I also liked about the place was that it wasn't poncy, I had to look at the menu again when I saw tea priced at 65p! If you're looking for a great fish restaurant with good prices and really fresh fish I'd really reccomend you travelling out of your way to Fish Central.My parents were coming to visit me at work one Friday afternoon and I asked them what they fancied to eat for lunch. "Its a Friday so Fish and Chips of course!" Dad replied. I set about searching for reputable fish and chips in the vicinty and luckily came across Fish Central which was not too far from my office and had really excellent reviews. We were not disappointed. The restaurant looked great. I was expecting a greasy spoon cafe, with bolted down chairs along sticky tables. It was not at all like that. Although there was the familiar lingering smell of a chippy the restaurant had an air of minimalist class - white walls, white chairs - interesting artwork though it carried no airs and graces. The menu was extensive with fried fish dominating it and specials adorned the blackboard. There was a lunch specials menu for Â£10 - 3 courses i think however my dad opted for the cod and chips, and mushy peas. I went for the special - hake and chips and mum chose the other special of grilled turbot with roasted winter vegetables with a creamy tarragon sauce. It was pricier that your average eat-in fish and chips shop - with our dishes ranging from Â£9 to about Â£13 (mum's) but apparently their fish is sustainable and the quality was probably was the best we had tasted in a long time. The fish was really fresh and kept its shape well. The batter was perfect, very light, not too thick. The portions were huge - my hake was about a foot long! Unfortunately the chips weren't so memorable as the fish was the real star of the plate. Mum enjoyed her turbot too. What I also liked about the place was that it wasn't poncy, I had to look at the menu again when I saw tea priced at 65p! If you're looking for a great fish restaurant with good prices and really fresh fish I'd really reccomend you travelling out of your way to Fish Central.

Club Mangia, The Punch Tavern - Great friendly pub! by KellyMcAuley12

KellyMcAuley12 — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:56:27 +0000

Review by KellyMcAuley12

Rating: 4.00

Tags: breakfast, good value, cheap eat

Lovely British Food!Lovely British Food!

Favela Chic - by ASMG

ASMG — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 16:11:50 +0000

Review by ASMG

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7613 5228

Website: http://www.favelachic.com

Tags: brazilian, cool, lively

The best pastÃ©is de nata in LondonThe best pastÃ©is de nata in London

Barbican Centre - favourite arts venue by LittleIsla

LittleIsla — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 14:58:50 +0000

Review by LittleIsla

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7382 7105

Website: http://www.barbican.org.uk

Tags: theatre, cultural, film

I absolutely love this place. It satisfies so many options. The cafe along the water always has some nice food, the cinema some great films showing, the library just a nice quiet place to browse and read, then every night there is theatre, or orchestras, or exhibitions of world class quality. It really is fantastic..I absolutely love this place. It satisfies so many options. The cafe along the water always has some nice food, the cinema some great films showing, the library just a nice quiet place to browse and read, then every night there is theatre, or orchestras, or exhibitions of world class quality. It really is fantastic..

The Well - the well by LittleIsla

LittleIsla — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 14:45:59 +0000

Review by LittleIsla

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7251 9363

Website: http://www.downthewell.com

Tags: french, smoking, special occasion

I really enjoy a post work drink here. It has a nice atmosphere, lots of lovely old wooden chairs and tables, and a great drink selection. They have some really nice beers, wines, and cocktails, or tasty juices if you are being good. The other end of St Johns Street, is all a bit much for me after work..I really enjoy a post work drink here. It has a nice atmosphere, lots of lovely old wooden chairs and tables, and a great drink selection. They have some really nice beers, wines, and cocktails, or tasty juices if you are being good. The other end of St Johns Street, is all a bit much for me after work..

Bleeding Heart Tavern - Bleeding awful more like...! by oogywawa

oogywawa — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 01:01:31 +0000

Review by oogywawa

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7404 0333

Tags: food, english, air conditioning

Adnams should hang their heads in shame. This place does everything wrong with the superb beer that they brew in deepest Suffolk in that wonderful upmarket seaside town of theirs.

I should have spotted the warning signs - most people were on wine, but alas not. Both pints that we ordered were flatter than a witches t#t, warmer than bearable and to add insult to injury served in steaming glasses straight from the dishwasher from an inept and disinterested employee.

Picture the scene - empty table, 2 half drunk pints, door swinging in the breezeAdnams should hang their heads in shame. This place does everything wrong with the superb beer that they brew in deepest Suffolk in that wonderful upmarket seaside town of theirs.

I should have spotted the warning signs - most people were on wine, but alas not. Both pints that we ordered were flatter than a witches t#t, warmer than bearable and to add insult to injury served in steaming glasses straight from the dishwasher from an inept and disinterested employee.

Picture the scene - empty table, 2 half drunk pints, door swinging in the breeze

Pho - herb heaven! by charlottalot

charlottalot — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:24:57 +0000

Review by charlottalot

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7253 7624

Website: http://www.phocafe.co.uk

Tags: vietnamese, cheap eat, lively

I have a confession to make.. I have an addiction.. The bun chicken with spicy sauce at this little cafe. It is delicious! It's a great mix of noodles, salad, a sprinkling of peanuts, and lots and lots of lovely fresh herbs. It's great.. You gotta try it..I have a confession to make.. I have an addiction.. The bun chicken with spicy sauce at this little cafe. It is delicious! It's a great mix of noodles, salad, a sprinkling of peanuts, and lots and lots of lovely fresh herbs. It's great.. You gotta try it..

Sosho - good night by anna98

anna98 — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 21:51:18 +0000

Review by anna98

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7920 0701

Website: http://www.matchbar.com

Tags: cool, late license, food

Went there with few friends last week and have to say I had really good time! The cocktails are absolutely stunning! the staff friendly and cool, and the crowd really friendly. Will defo be back for moreWent there with few friends last week and have to say I had really good time! The cocktails are absolutely stunning! the staff friendly and cool, and the crowd really friendly. Will defo be back for more

Taberna Etrusca - Excellent Italian by sokratis

sokratis — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 20:27:10 +0000

Review by sokratis

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7248 5552

Website: http://www.etruscagroup.co.uk

Tags: italian, good value, restaurant

This is an excellent spot for a business lunch near the City.
It's got an authentic Italian feel to it with old school posters hung on the walls. You will (expectedly) find quite a few suits, but the atmosphere remains relaxed. One small oddity is the pulpit that the receptionist sits in, but donâ¬"t let that put you off ï`
The thing that impressed me most with Taberna Etrusca was the service. We did go for a late lunch at 2pm and there were many customers left, but the speed that our plates came through was phenomenal. Excellent flow to the meal with a piping hot plate of spaghetti arriving as it should.
Both me and my friend went for Â£16 two-course offer, which did not disappoint. The deep-fried (sorry, I canâ¬"t call it Tempura as it said on the menu, because itâ¬"s not) white-bait and prawn was ok, but the Spaghetti Aragosta (lobster or langoustine) was delicious. Very well seaoned and well portioned, it was as good as any hearty spaghetti meal should be.
We didnâ¬"t try dessert as I was quite full with the starter and main course.
Overall, a definite recommendation for a simple, decent Italian meal that wonâ¬"t break the bank and will deliver on quality.
This is an excellent spot for a business lunch near the City.
It's got an authentic Italian feel to it with old school posters hung on the walls. You will (expectedly) find quite a few suits, but the atmosphere remains relaxed. One small oddity is the pulpit that the receptionist sits in, but donâ¬"t let that put you off ï`
The thing that impressed me most with Taberna Etrusca was the service. We did go for a late lunch at 2pm and there were many customers left, but the speed that our plates came through was phenomenal. Excellent flow to the meal with a piping hot plate of spaghetti arriving as it should.
Both me and my friend went for Â£16 two-course offer, which did not disappoint. The deep-fried (sorry, I canâ¬"t call it Tempura as it said on the menu, because itâ¬"s not) white-bait and prawn was ok, but the Spaghetti Aragosta (lobster or langoustine) was delicious. Very well seasoned and well portioned, it was as good as any hearty spaghetti meal should be.
We didnâ¬"t try dessert as I was quite full with the starter and main course.
Overall, a definite recommendation for a simple, decent Italian meal that wonâ¬"t break the bank and will deliver on quality.

26 Smithfield - Review by pbelly

pbelly — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 10:29:53 +0000

Review by pbelly

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 72482464

Tags: entertainment, toptable

From what could actually make the perfect music Venue (I was in there over a year ago where music was played on all three floors - with bands on the roof! - can't remember who those promoters were, but they were amazing) 26 Smithfield fails to deliver on the basis that the food and drinks are just too expensive, especially now in a time of the credit crunch. Generally the ambience is geared around drawing in high paying customers so unless you're a city slicker rolling in dosh, go find yourself a pub for the locals and the nightly Smithfield butchers.From what could actually make the perfect music Venue (I was in there over a year ago where music was played on all three floors - with bands on the roof! - can't remember who those promoters were, but they were amazing) 26 Smithfield fails to deliver on the basis that the food and drinks are just too expensive, especially now in a time of the credit crunch. Generally the ambience is geared around drawing in high paying customers so unless you're a city slicker rolling in dosh, go find yourself a pub for the locals and the nightly Smithfield butchers.

Cargo - by Hectorboece

Hectorboece — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 13:05:35 +0000

Review by Hectorboece

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7739 3440

Website: http://www.cargo-london.com

Tags: live music, cool, underground

Yeah, this is one of the coolest venues in London, from location to staff to the acts they bring in. Best to check what's on before you go if you're a little fussy about your music because it can be quite specific (usually without loss of quality!). The sound system in there is awesome, and the beer garden makes it easy to nip out for a cigarette or a cooldown when the dance floor gets too hot!Yeah, this is one of the coolest venues in London, from location to staff to the acts they bring in. Best to check what's on before you go if you're a little fussy about your music because it can be quite specific (usually without loss of quality!). The sound system in there is awesome, and the beer garden makes it easy to nip out for a cigarette or a cooldown when the dance floor gets too hot!

Wunjo Guitars - Expensive accessories by 8ravo4lpha7ango

8ravo4lpha7ango — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 18:30:27 +0000

Review by 8ravo4lpha7ango

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7379 0737

Tags: guitars

I bought a slide for 12 pounds only to find out later that it had a list price of 7.65 and most other places sell the exact same one for 5 pounds or less. What a rip off!I bought a slide for 12 pounds only to find out later that it had a list price of 7.65 and most other places sell the exact same one for 5 pounds or less. What a rip off!

333 Club - by Pip_skip

Pip_skip — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 13:33:04 +0000

Review by Pip_skip

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7739 5949

Tags: trendy, reasonably priced, live music

Fun place to go. Although also had trouble with thieves in the bar. Lost my card and Â£500 was taken out of my account. The management needs to do something about this.Fun place to go. Although also had trouble with thieves in the bar. Lost my card and Â£500 was taken out of my account. The management needs to do something about this.

The Wall - by slim_cop

slim_cop — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 18:57:05 +0000

Review by slim_cop

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7588 4845

Website: http://www.thewallbar.co.uk

Tags: quiet, food, outdoor

This is possibly the worst place I have ever been in: we arrived around 2.30pm for a late lunch, the surly staff ushered us over to the far end next to the fire exit, they then proceeded to shift furniture around, opening the fire exit to carry things in and out thus letting in a howling wind. We had to ask them to take our order. The place was infested with barflys. The portions were pitifully small. The salmon was overdone. There was no soap in the toilets, and the pushdown tap stayed on full blast for the best part of two minutes. There was a general air of shambolic decay about the place. If it lasts another week I'll be shocked.This is possibly the worst place I have ever been in: we arrived around 2.30pm for a late lunch, the surly staff ushered us over to the far end next to the fire exit, they then proceeded to shift furniture around, opening the fire exit to carry things in and out thus letting in a howling wind. We had to ask them to take our order. The place was infested with barflys. The portions were pitifully small. The salmon was overdone. There was no soap in the toilets, and the pushdown tap stayed on full blast for the best part of two minutes. There was a general air of shambolic decay about the place. If it lasts another week I'll be shocked.

Body Basics - by SamUrq

SamUrq — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 11:34:06 +0000

Review by SamUrq

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7628 6404

Terrible service. My girlfriend bought a pair of gold shoes from this shop, which fell apart within a week. They then refused to refund the money or exchange them and were extremely rude in the process.

Avoid.Terrible service. My girlfriend bought a pair of gold shoes from this shop, which fell apart within a week. They then refused to refund the money or exchange them and were extremely rude in the process.

Avoid.

Finsbury Residences - OK by leenDV

leenDV — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 15:38:35 +0000

Review by leenDV

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7040 8811

Website: http://www.city.ac.uk

Tags: helpful staff

Nice and cheap place to stay, basic but all you need is there. Rooms are clean. There's a kitchen you can use, so if you're on a budget I would really recommend it!Nice and cheap place to stay, basic but all you need is there. Rooms are clean. There's a kitchen you can use, so if you're on a budget I would really recommend it!

The Bedroom Bar - Good DJ, bad bouncers! by Mattip

Mattip — Sat, 11 Jul 2009 12:56:17 +0000

Review by Mattip

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7739 5706

Tags: relaxed, food, trendy

The club itself is pretty awesome and the music is great. The only reason I'm rating it so low is because of the staff - vulgar, rude, and so discourteous to their customers. Who do they think they are? The barman was so obnoxious, and the doormen were actually physically aggressive (I saw a man get pushed by them when he was trying to sort out a reservation which the club had screwed up - it made everyone queuing noticeably uncomfortable). Avoid the place if you don't want to be treated like dirt.
The club itself is pretty awesome and the music is great. The only reason I'm rating it so low is because of the staff - vulgar, rude, and so discourteous to their customers. Who do they think they are? The barman was so obnoxious, and the doormen were actually physically aggressive (I saw a man get pushed by them when he was trying to sort out a reservation which the club had screwed up - it made everyone queuing noticeably uncomfortable). Avoid the place if you don't want to be treated like dirt.

Birley Sandwiches - by davinamini

davinamini — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 13:03:33 +0000

Review by davinamini

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7621 9645

Website: http://www.birleysandwiches.co.uk

Terrible people!!! To have bad customer service twice!Terrible people!!! To have bad customer service twice!

Trafik - food posoining by sillysnake

sillysnake — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 12:46:15 +0000

Review by sillysnake

Rating: 1.00

Tags: expensive, pretentious, international

I had dinner there with a friend and we both decided to grab a pizza. I have to say both of us felt seriously unwell afterwards. It ruined our whole day getting food poisoning from this place and I couldn't apologise enough to my friend for taking her there. WILL NEVER EVER GO TO AGAIN!!

My friends have said it is terrible for a night out also.

STAY AWAY!!!!!!!!!I had dinner there with a friend and we both decided to grab a pizza. I have to say both of us felt seriously unwell afterwards. It ruined our whole day getting food poisoning from this place and I couldn't apologise enough to my friend for taking her there. WILL NEVER EVER GO TO AGAIN!!

My friends have said it is terrible for a night out also.

STAY AWAY!!!!!!!!!

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