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    <title>Latest reviews for  Restaurants in Mayfair, London, United Kingdom</title>
    <link>http://trustedplaces.com</link>
    <description></description>
    <language>en</language>
    <item>
      <title>Sketch - wow! by sarah2009</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/117286x/sketch/1v5qp7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/94929_0f447f89.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_user.gif" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/sarah2009">sarah2009</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 5.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 0870 777 4488</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.sketch.uk.com</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=lively'>lively</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=trendy'>trendy</a></p>I had dinner with friends in the Gallery last week and wow&#33; I have never seen anything like it before; the food was delicious and we were entertained by the most amazing video art projections. I will definately visit again soon, if not for dinner then just to the bar.I had dinner with friends in the Gallery last week and wow&#33; I have never seen anything like it before; the food was delicious and we were entertained by the most amazing video art projections. I will definately visit again soon, if not for dinner then just to the bar.]]></description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 21 Nov 2008 14:55:56 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/117286x/sketch/1v5qp734085741</guid>
      <dc:creator>sarah2009</dc:creator>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>lively</category>
      <category>trendy</category>
      <georss:point>51.512295 -0.141839</georss:point>
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      <title>Maze - A-Mazing... Ha? by vexille</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/150387c/maze/1x8ev7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/123951_089597dc.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/vexille_b56ba0b1.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/vexille">vexille</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7107 0000</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://gordonramsay.com/maze/</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=french'>french</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=lively'>lively</a></p>It&#39;s great, but not, um, amazing.<br /><br />It&#39;s all you would expect from a restaurant run by a great chef, situated in the &#39;sophisticated&#39; part of town. You don&#39;t even need to have been here to imagine exactly what it&#39;ll look like. Everything is prim and proper yet remains convincingly unpretentious.<br /><br />Service is good, at one point we had 3 different waiters cleaning the table, seriving us wine and taking our order. You&#39;d almost expect them to spoon feed you so as not to crease your shirt or dirty your hands.<br /><br />The 7 course meal was very very tasty, but incredibly rich. I&#39;ve eaten in many places and this was the only one where I came out of still feeling peckish, but completely satisfied. The scallops are to die for.<br /><br />It&#39;s just missing something that makes me want to go again, lacks soul perhaps?<br /><br />Good for an experience / date but if you&#39;re looking for better I&#39;d goto Fifteen...It&#39;s great, but not, um, amazing.<br /><br />It&#39;s all you would expect from a restaurant run by a great chef, situated in the &#39;sophisticated&#39; part of town. You don&#39;t even need to have been here to imagine exactly what it&#39;ll look like. Everything is prim and proper yet remains convincingly unpretentious.<br /><br />Service is good, at one point we had 3 different waiters cleaning the table, seriving us wine and taking our order. You&#39;d almost expect them to spoon feed you so as not to crease your shirt or dirty your hands.<br /><br />The 7 course meal was very very tasty, but incredibly rich. I&#39;ve eaten in many places and this was the only one where I came out of still feeling peckish, but completely satisfied. The scallops are to die for.<br /><br />It&#39;s just missing something that makes me want to go again, lacks soul perhaps?<br /><br />Good for an experience / date but if you&#39;re looking for better I&#39;d goto Fifteen...]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:33:40 +0000</pubDate>
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      <dc:creator>vexille</dc:creator>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>french</category>
      <category>lively</category>
      <georss:point>51.512058 -0.151637</georss:point>
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      <title>Spacca Napoli - La vita e bella by nat08</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1k26m7a/spacca-napoli/1t5qg7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_place.gif" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/nat08_b266d978.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/nat08">nat08</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=italian'>italian</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=crowded'>crowded</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=lively'>lively</a></p>I first discovered this restaurant about 10 years ago in its first incarnation as "Bella Napoli" - and what a true find it was&#33; Thanks Miranda&#33; It was the most traditional restaurant in Soho, as far as I could see, and it made a welcome difference to all the other places trying to be cool and trendy and not focusing on the main event - the food&#33;&#33;<br /><br />It was such a gem that of course it&#39;s popularity grew and fans kept coming back for some wonderful food along with the personal touch that the owner Mimmo gives to each and every customer that walks through his door.<br /><br />A facelift came but still his fans poured through the door each and every night. Food is wonderful and portions are big - just the way I like my Italian food&#33; It&#39;s true comfort food at it&#39;s best - i love the Vitello Milanese - mouth-watering and just so tender and succulent - not chewy and bland as you can find many times with this dish.<br /><br />Pizzas are great and if you are in a big party it makes sense to get it by the meter and share - such a great way of making food fun as well as delicious&#33; And the atmosphere and service is first class. It&#39;s a great location too on Dean Street. <br /><br />So why not mosey on down to Dean Street and say Ciao to Spacca Napoli....I first discovered this restaurant about 10 years ago in its first incarnation as "Bella Napoli" - and what a true find it was&#33; Thanks Miranda&#33; It was the most traditional restaurant in Soho, as far as I could see, and it made a welcome difference to all the other places trying to be cool and trendy and not focusing on the main event - the food&#33;&#33;<br /><br />It was such a gem that of course it&#39;s popularity grew and fans kept coming back for some wonderful food along with the personal touch that the owner Mimmo gives to each and every customer that walks through his door.<br /><br />A facelift came but still his fans poured through the door each and every night. Food is wonderful and portions are big - just the way I like my Italian food&#33; It&#39;s true comfort food at it&#39;s best - i love the Vitello Milanese - mouth-watering and just so tender and succulent - not chewy and bland as you can find many times with this dish.<br /><br />Pizzas are great and if you are in a big party it makes sense to get it by the meter and share - such a great way of making food fun as well as delicious&#33; And the atmosphere and service is first class. It&#39;s a great location too on Dean Street. <br /><br />So why not mosey on down to Dean Street and say Ciao to Spacca Napoli....]]></description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 19 Nov 2008 20:03:39 +0000</pubDate>
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      <dc:creator>nat08</dc:creator>
      <category>italian</category>
      <category>crowded</category>
      <category>lively</category>
      <georss:point>51.515734687236 -0.13505727249512</georss:point>
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      <title>Wild Honey - delicious food in Mayfair by ProfMagellan</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1f8327m/wild-honey/1t4q87</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/159502_0496529b.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/sokratis_02802e83.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/ProfMagellan">ProfMagellan</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 5.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7758 9160</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk/</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=french'>french</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=good value'>good value</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=romantic'>romantic</a></p>Full marks to Wild Honey. A really good lunch. Nice modern room just south of Hanover Square (near Bond Street).<br />The service was very efficient and friendly and the menu<br />offered a wide variety of interesting dishes. The puds were especially good. We had an alcohol-free lunch so I cannot alas comment on the wine.<br />One gripe: there was a good value set lunch on offer but in tiny print buried at the bottom of the menu. Had I had a magnifying glass I might have seen it but it was only at the end of luncheon that I noticed it. I very much liked sister restaurant Arbutus<br />so my expectations were high and were well rewarded.<br />Not cheap - but good value as this was fine food in Mayfair.<br />A postscript: it was raining heavily as we were leaving. My (female) guest asked to borrow an umbrella and presto the maitre d provided one for her. That is the sort of positive attitude that makes one recommend Wild Honey<br />without reservation.Full marks to Wild Honey. A really good lunch. Nice modern room just south of Hanover Square (near Bond Street).<br />The service was very efficient and friendly and the menu<br />offered a wide variety of interesting dishes. The puds were especially good. We had an alcohol-free lunch so I cannot alas comment on the wine.<br />One gripe: there was a good value set lunch on offer but in tiny print buried at the bottom of the menu. Had I had a magnifying glass I might have seen it but it was only at the end of luncheon that I noticed it. I very much liked sister restaurant Arbutus<br />so my expectations were high and were well rewarded.<br />Not cheap - but good value as this was fine food in Mayfair.<br />A postscript: it was raining heavily as we were leaving. My (female) guest asked to borrow an umbrella and presto the maitre d provided one for her. That is the sort of positive attitude that makes one recommend Wild Honey<br />without reservation.]]></description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 19 Nov 2008 16:57:54 +0000</pubDate>
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      <dc:creator>ProfMagellan</dc:creator>
      <category>french</category>
      <category>good value</category>
      <category>romantic</category>
      <georss:point>51.512599 -0.143184</georss:point>
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      <title>Browns -  by NickR</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1p62s7o/browns/1e5qx8</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/1j31x70_0632d626.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/NickR_5f492ef7.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/NickR">NickR</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7491 4565</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.browns-restaurants.com</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=bar'>bar</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=air conditioning'>air conditioning</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=brasserie'>brasserie</a></p>A very nice atmospheric, but not too hectic place for an after work drink with friends. Food is good and service is attentive too. The dedor is great, with traditional quality brasserie style, which leave you feeling warm and comfortable.<br />A very nice atmospheric, but not too hectic place for an after work drink with friends. Food is good and service is attentive too. The dedor is great, with traditional quality brasserie style, which leave you feeling warm and comfortable.<br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Sat, 08 Nov 2008 11:58:58 +0000</pubDate>
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      <dc:creator>NickR</dc:creator>
      <category>bar</category>
      <category>air conditioning</category>
      <category>brasserie</category>
      <georss:point>51.5124262 -0.1439748</georss:point>
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      <title>Benares - Awesome, faultless food by Foodlovers</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1f1617t/benares/1d4qg8</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/1212d7b_4efe2145.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_user.gif" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/Foodlovers">Foodlovers</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 5.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7629 8886</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=indian'>indian</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=lively'>lively</a></p>Had a great experience from start to finish. We opted for the set menu which was &#0194;&#0163;30 and not disappointed. I had the tandoori rabbit which was gorgeous followed by the slow cooked lamb shoulder with a masala mash then a pistachio kulfi. What was so good about the set menu was not only did you get your 3 courses you each got a glass of wine, poppadoms and pickles, a pre appetiser which was a spicy artichoke soup with beetroot foam which warmed you up on a cold day and a palette freshening melon sorbet before your desert plus tea and coffee and petit four. It felt as if you were no less important than the people opting for the a la carte menu.<br />It was our friends birthday and they decorated a plate with extra petit fours and candle with a Happy Birthday on in chocolate.<br /> The attention to every detail was great and the food was mouthwatering and perfect that I have nothing negative to say&#33;&#33;<br />We even met the owner Atul Kocher whom was very pleasant and appreciative of our good comments.<br />With a bottle of wine as well the bill was &#0194;&#0163;186 and worth every penny.<br /> Only comment is it is a large restaurant great to go with friends and family but if you are after the quiet romantic spot probably wouldn&#39;t meet that criteria but the food definately makes up for it&#33;&#33;Had a great experience from start to finish. We opted for the set menu which was &#0194;&#0163;30 and not disappointed. I had the tandoori rabbit which was gorgeous followed by the slow cooked lamb shoulder with a masala mash then a pistachio kulfi. What was so good about the set menu was not only did you get your 3 courses you each got a glass of wine, poppadoms and pickles, a pre appetiser which was a spicy artichoke soup with beetroot foam which warmed you up on a cold day and a palette freshening melon sorbet before your desert plus tea and coffee and petit four. It felt as if you were no less important than the people opting for the a la carte menu.<br />It was our friends birthday and they decorated a plate with extra petit fours and candle with a Happy Birthday on in chocolate.<br /> The attention to every detail was great and the food was mouthwatering and perfect that I have nothing negative to say&#33;&#33;<br />We even met the owner Atul Kocher whom was very pleasant and appreciative of our good comments.<br />With a bottle of wine as well the bill was &#0194;&#0163;186 and worth every penny.<br /> Only comment is it is a large restaurant great to go with friends and family but if you are after the quiet romantic spot probably wouldn&#39;t meet that criteria but the food definately makes up for it&#33;&#33;]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 06 Nov 2008 19:35:25 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1f1617t/benares/1d4qg85883039</guid>
      <dc:creator>Foodlovers</dc:creator>
      <category>indian</category>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>lively</category>
      <georss:point>51.509648 -0.145094</georss:point>
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    <item>
      <title>Le Gavroche - Le Gavroche, 30 October 2008 by Food_Snob</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1211v8s/le-gavroche/1c2q98</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/1211v8s_50a7b57e.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/Food_Snob_fa684dec.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/Food_Snob">Food_Snob</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7408 0881</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=french'>french</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=romantic'>romantic</a></p>Illustrated Critique:<br /><br />http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/le-gavroche-the-return-london/<br /><br />Text-only Critique:<br /><br />It was raining. It was cold. I was at Marble Arch station and I was early. &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;If I get there too soon, they will make me wait outside till they open,&#0226;&#0172;" I thought to myself. But there was nothing else to do, nowhere else to go, so I headed down Park Lane. My toes had become numb from the short walk between Marble Arch and the restaurant, but as soon as I turned left onto Upper Brook Street, my heart, and my belly, were warmed by the fond memories of my last meal here. Instinctively, I started smiling to myself and my gait quickened, footsteps shortened, my heart began to beat a little faster. I felt the cold no longer.<br /><br />Its discreet door is distinguished only by the simple signage above. As one approaches, a symbolic fleur-de-lis, the Relais & Chateaux logo, and caricature coq gaulois, the arms of the Traditions & Qualit&#0195;&#0169; association, assure the diner they have arrived at one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde.<br /><br />I rang the bell. Promptly one of Le Gavroche&#0226;&#0172;"s ginger gemini allowed me in. &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Sorry, I am so early,&#0226;&#0172;" I yelped, &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;is it alright if I wait inside, it is freezing out there?&#0226;&#0172;" &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Of course,&#0226;&#0172;" the little lady assured me as she took my coat, &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;we couldn&#0226;&#0172;"t leave you in the cold now, could we?&#0226;&#0172;" And to think of the countless times I have been forced to wait outside a restaurant&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;<br /><br />I sat down on one of the plush couches in the cosy salon. Jumbo macadamias were set beside me and I requested the menu. I was pleased to have some time, before H came, to check le carte and I needed it; every dish read delicious. &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;You&#0226;&#0172;"re back&#0226;&#0172;" a French baritone boomed in my direction. I looked up. It was Emmanuel. He had recognised me although he had not seen me since July and warmly welcomed me. I felt guilty I had waited so long to return.<br /><br />Once ready, my greeter&#0226;&#0172;"s ringer escorted me to my table; one of the lovely big, banquetted booths from which one can watch all the action of the dining room unfold. H, who I had not met with since Roussillon, arrived on time. Graciously, he left most of the food selection to me and after checking he had brought with him a healthy appetite, Emmanuel and I set about organising our order. It is late autumn, which means &#0226;&#0172;"tis the season for game - j&#0226;&#0172;"adore mon gibier - and the ALC and chef propose were brimming with mouth-watering wild birds. I put forward a few of my preferences and let Emmanuel decide the rest.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 1: Langoustine Beignet and Curried Smoked Bacon. A small, shimmering serving-tray supplied our starting amuses of crunchy-coated, juicy langoustines swollen with sea-sweet succulence. I had to handover my enticing, but illicit cup of curried pork to H, who was pretty pleased with the unexpected present.<br /><br />Les Pains: Country Roll; Rye; Baguette; and Mixed Cereal & Raisin. Artisan bread is bought in from French master-bakers, Bagatelle, but bestowed baking hot - every time. Each variety was good and even better than before. Country roll was crisp and yeasty; the baguette, soft, crusty and proved an effective sponge. I liked most the mixed cereal and rye equally; the wholemeal, triangular raisin rolls were thick and rustic while the rye, deeply flavoured and moist. Butter is sourced from two different purveyors: the super-creamy salted is from Le Gall, in Breton Gu&#0195;&#0169;rande and is made with the town&#0226;&#0172;"s famous fleur de sel; and the unsalted is from Sarl Ets Beillevaire, an organic producer in Machecoul in the Loire.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 2: Artichoke Beignet, Mixed Salad and Balsamic Vinaigrette. Another amuse of pork mousse quenelle arrived, but informing them I could not eat it, within minutes, this replacement was brought in its stead. Lightly battered, crispy artichoke leaf lay on a bed of micro greens, dressed with balsamic vinegar. The nutty vegetable and vinaigrette balanced the bitterness of the greens, leaving just their fresh bite.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 1: Souffl&#0195;&#0169; Suissesse. Cheese souffl&#0195;&#0169; Cooked on Double Cream. Although I had tried this already, I did not resist it sneaking onto our agenda again (plus, it means I can recycle my description from my first post: very lazy, I know). The menu&#0226;&#0172;"s translation does not do this justice. Arguably Le Gavroche&#0226;&#0172;"s most famous dish, certainly its oldest, this has been on the menu since day one. An ethereal island of rich Gruy&#0195;&#0168;re and cheddar cheese arrived floating upon a deep lake of b&#0195;&#0169;chamel and cream sauces. The initial savoury aroma of the baked cheese confection tantalised the taste buds. The appearance, grandiose and striking yet so precious, almost prevents one from violating that gentle crust, but each ambrosial spoonful that follows brushes all regrets aside. Every moist, indulgent, buttery bite is a palpable step closer towards an early, but richly deserved, grave.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 2: Coquille St. Jacques Grill&#0195;&#0169;e, Compote d&#0226;&#0172;"Aubergine et Fleur de Fenouil. Grilled Diver Caught Scallop, Spicy Aubergine, Fennel Pollen and Parsley Coulis. A char grilled, sizeable scallop sat atop spiced aubergine compote and alongside pea shoot salad and beetroot crisp, all upon dark pastel green purls of parsley coulis peppered with fennel pollen. The shellfish, suffused with clean, smoky savour, was soft yet firm. The creamy aubergine, seasoned with mustard seed, had a gentle kick to it, which, together with the peppery, grassy parsley, freshened the whole dish. Sugary-spinach-like, so slightly earthy, crisp pea shoots added some texture while the beetroot, salty and sweet, contributed crunch. Fennel pollen, which I had heard rumours of but not yet tried, was strongly aromatic with a honey-like, flowery taste, smoother than anise. The new, interesting and expensive - similarly priced as saffron, though liberally applied - enhancer&#0226;&#0172;"s light liquorice essence worked well with the scallop.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 3: Petit Chausson de Canard Sauvage et Pistaches, Chicor&#0195;&#0169;e Rotie Minute et Sauce Rouennaise. Hot Wild Duck Pie with Pistachios and Roasted Endive Salad. Flaky pastry filled with wild duck and pistachio was accompanied by roast endive in sauce Rouennaise. The pie was perfect: short, buttery crust, lined with moist inner layer and stuffed with steaming, strong, tender duck. The nuts offered mild sweetness and creamy chewiness; whilst the sauce, a Bordelaise (dry red wine, bone marrow, shallots and demi-glace) with pur&#0195;&#0169;ed duck foie gras, was deliciously deep. Caramelised endive was delicately bitter and thus a good counterpoint to the richer meat and gravy. The exemplary execution and serious savours made this a wow.<br /><br />Plat Principal 1: Darne de Turbot Grill&#0195;&#0169;e et Beurre Blanc &#0195;&#0160; la Ciboulette. Grilled &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;T&#0226;&#0172;" Bone of Turbot, Chive Sauce, Chick Pea Chips and Courgette Cannelloni. Half a hunky chunk of T-bone Turbot, teamed with chive beurre blanc, came with thick-cut chickpea frites and ratatouille-packed courgette parcels. The charred fillet, flush with woody flavour, was great in texture and taste, its firm, white flesh falling off the fishy-spine in steak-like strips. The hot, buttery sauce, mildly onion and garlicky, was a superb condiment compliment. Ratatouille roll mops were filled with smoky, earthy eggplant, sweet red pepper, tomato and onions. The chips were well-made, but seemed maybe surplus to requirements.<br /><br />Plat Principal 2: Le Li&#0195;&#0168;vre &#0195;&#0160; la Royale. Classic Braised Stuffed Saddle of Hare and Swiss Chard. Legendary Li&#0195;&#0168;vre &#0195;&#0160; la Royale is soaked in history and tradition and marked as the &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;most mythical meal in French cuisine&#0226;&#0172;". Its actual recipe, however, is much disputed.<br /><br />Original credit for the creation commonly lies with Senator Aristide Couteaux, who in November 1898, instead of his usual political column in Le Temps newspaper, published directions for a new dish. He reported of his week in Poitou hunting a special hare and, once catching it, taking the Paris train straight to his chef-friend, M. Sp&#0195;&#0188;ller in Rue Favart, famous in his day. Couteaux&#0226;&#0172;"s instructions are retold in Elizabeth David&#0226;&#0172;"s A Book of Mediterranean Food: one requires (and I summarise) a hare, &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;cleanly killed&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;so not [to] have lost a drop of blood&#0226;&#0172;"; goose fat; bacon; good wine vinegar; red wine; 20 garlic cloves; 40 shallot cloves; carrot; onion; bouquet garni; plus optional cognac for the hare&#0226;&#0172;"s blood. The meat is stewed for hours in wine and sauce thickened with blood; if properly prepared, it is &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;needless to say, that to use a knife to serve the hare would be a sacrilege. A spoon alone is amply sufficient.&#0226;&#0172;" As Sp&#0195;&#0188;ller cooked this, its aroma alone, wafting from the restaurant, apparently had crowds of passers-by sniffing, straining and shoving their way to his door.<br /><br />However, Henri Babinski, writing in his Gastronomie Pratique (1907) under the brilliant anonym Ali Baba, contested the technique, claiming the animal should be boned, stuffed with foie gras and truffle, simmered slowly in wine and hare stock, with the end result resembling a ballotine served in thick slices with brandy-and-blood-thickened gravy.<br /><br />And, of course, there is a third way. Prosper Montagne, in Larousse Gastronomique (1938), states the hare be stuffed with a mixture including truffles, goose foie gras and hare blood and giblets, before being braised in white wine and briefly browned in the oven.<br /><br />Now, that was either Q.I. or quite boring, so let me return to Le Gavroche, whose chefs follow, fittingly, Ali Baba&#0226;&#0172;"s ten-page preparation (probably because Couteaux&#0226;&#0172;"s civet demands seven days spent hunting and seven hours in the kitchen). The ballotine of boned, foie gras-stuffed saddle of hare, sitting in red wine and blood sauce strewn with wild mushrooms, was served with Swiss chard gratin. The hare was lusciously strong and gamey; its dark red meat, robust and dense, contrasted well with the sweeter, softer foie gras-filling. Sticky, potent, powerful bloody gravy was lip-smackingly good and added essential moisture to le li&#0195;&#0168;vre. The nutty, creamy Gruy&#0195;&#0168;re gratin of earthy chard was savoury-sweet and cheesy-rich, complementing the similarly earthy and nutty, plump mushrooms.<br /><br />Plat Principal 3: Perdreau R&#0195;&#0180;ti en Cocotte &#0195;&#0160; l&#0226;&#0172;"Alsacienne. Roast Partridge with Sauerkraut, Roast Potato and Alsace Bacon. Whole partridge, roasted then baked in a sealed pot with its accompanying vegetables, was presented en cocotte, then carved tableside. Half the bird, roasted potato pair, Chantenay carrot couple and sauerkraut serving were plated then dressed with brandy jus for each of us (normally Alsace bacon would also be included). The plump partridge had moist, tender flesh with delicate, subtly gaminess whilst the brandy, blended with jus roti, made for a lovely, not overpowering sauce. Carrots were crisp and honey-like; potatoes, roasted perfectly; and sour cabbage had nice smokiness. This delicious dish, in Alsatian style - which explains the Germanic influence - was soft yet satisfying; all the simple elements gelling gently and comfortably together.<br />Illustrated Critique:<br /><br />http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/le-gavroche-the-return-london/<br /><br />Text-only Critique:<br /><br />It was raining. It was cold. I was at Marble Arch station and I was early. &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;If I get there too soon, they will make me wait outside till they open,&#0226;&#0172;" I thought to myself. But there was nothing else to do, nowhere else to go, so I headed down Park Lane. My toes had become numb from the short walk between Marble Arch and the restaurant, but as soon as I turned left onto Upper Brook Street, my heart, and my belly, were warmed by the fond memories of my last meal here. Instinctively, I started smiling to myself and my gait quickened, footsteps shortened, my heart began to beat a little faster. I felt the cold no longer.<br /><br />Its discreet door is distinguished only by the simple signage above. As one approaches, a symbolic fleur-de-lis, the Relais & Chateaux logo, and caricature coq gaulois, the arms of the Traditions & Qualit&#0195;&#0169; association, assure the diner they have arrived at one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde.<br /><br />I rang the bell. Promptly one of Le Gavroche&#0226;&#0172;"s ginger gemini allowed me in. &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Sorry, I am so early,&#0226;&#0172;" I yelped, &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;is it alright if I wait inside, it is freezing out there?&#0226;&#0172;" &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Of course,&#0226;&#0172;" the little lady assured me as she took my coat, &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;we couldn&#0226;&#0172;"t leave you in the cold now, could we?&#0226;&#0172;" And to think of the countless times I have been forced to wait outside a restaurant&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;<br /><br />I sat down on one of the plush couches in the cosy salon. Jumbo macadamias were set beside me and I requested the menu. I was pleased to have some time, before H came, to check le carte and I needed it; every dish read delicious. &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;You&#0226;&#0172;"re back&#0226;&#0172;" a French baritone boomed in my direction. I looked up. It was Emmanuel. He had recognised me although he had not seen me since July and warmly welcomed me. I felt guilty I had waited so long to return.<br /><br />Once ready, my greeter&#0226;&#0172;"s ringer escorted me to my table; one of the lovely big, banquetted booths from which one can watch all the action of the dining room unfold. H, who I had not met with since Roussillon, arrived on time. Graciously, he left most of the food selection to me and after checking he had brought with him a healthy appetite, Emmanuel and I set about organising our order. It is late autumn, which means &#0226;&#0172;"tis the season for game - j&#0226;&#0172;"adore mon gibier - and the ALC and chef propose were brimming with mouth-watering wild birds. I put forward a few of my preferences and let Emmanuel decide the rest.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 1: Langoustine Beignet and Curried Smoked Bacon. A small, shimmering serving-tray supplied our starting amuses of crunchy-coated, juicy langoustines swollen with sea-sweet succulence. I had to handover my enticing, but illicit cup of curried pork to H, who was pretty pleased with the unexpected present.<br /><br />Les Pains: Country Roll; Rye; Baguette; and Mixed Cereal & Raisin. Artisan bread is bought in from French master-bakers, Bagatelle, but bestowed baking hot - every time. Each variety was good and even better than before. Country roll was crisp and yeasty; the baguette, soft, crusty and proved an effective sponge. I liked most the mixed cereal and rye equally; the wholemeal, triangular raisin rolls were thick and rustic while the rye, deeply flavoured and moist. Butter is sourced from two different purveyors: the super-creamy salted is from Le Gall, in Breton Gu&#0195;&#0169;rande and is made with the town&#0226;&#0172;"s famous fleur de sel; and the unsalted is from Sarl Ets Beillevaire, an organic producer in Machecoul in the Loire.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 2: Artichoke Beignet, Mixed Salad and Balsamic Vinaigrette. Another amuse of pork mousse quenelle arrived, but informing them I could not eat it, within minutes, this replacement was brought in its stead. Lightly battered, crispy artichoke leaf lay on a bed of micro greens, dressed with balsamic vinegar. The nutty vegetable and vinaigrette balanced the bitterness of the greens, leaving just their fresh bite.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 1: Souffl&#0195;&#0169; Suissesse. Cheese souffl&#0195;&#0169; Cooked on Double Cream. Although I had tried this already, I did not resist it sneaking onto our agenda again (plus, it means I can recycle my description from my first post: very lazy, I know). The menu&#0226;&#0172;"s translation does not do this justice. Arguably Le Gavroche&#0226;&#0172;"s most famous dish, certainly its oldest, this has been on the menu since day one. An ethereal island of rich Gruy&#0195;&#0168;re and cheddar cheese arrived floating upon a deep lake of b&#0195;&#0169;chamel and cream sauces. The initial savoury aroma of the baked cheese confection tantalised the taste buds. The appearance, grandiose and striking yet so precious, almost prevents one from violating that gentle crust, but each ambrosial spoonful that follows brushes all regrets aside. Every moist, indulgent, buttery bite is a palpable step closer towards an early, but richly deserved, grave.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 2: Coquille St. Jacques Grill&#0195;&#0169;e, Compote d&#0226;&#0172;"Aubergine et Fleur de Fenouil. Grilled Diver Caught Scallop, Spicy Aubergine, Fennel Pollen and Parsley Coulis. A char grilled, sizeable scallop sat atop spiced aubergine compote and alongside pea shoot salad and beetroot crisp, all upon dark pastel green purls of parsley coulis peppered with fennel pollen. The shellfish, suffused with clean, smoky savour, was soft yet firm. The creamy aubergine, seasoned with mustard seed, had a gentle kick to it, which, together with the peppery, grassy parsley, freshened the whole dish. Sugary-spinach-like, so slightly earthy, crisp pea shoots added some texture while the beetroot, salty and sweet, contributed crunch. Fennel pollen, which I had heard rumours of but not yet tried, was strongly aromatic with a honey-like, flowery taste, smoother than anise. The new, interesting and expensive - similarly priced as saffron, though liberally applied - enhancer&#0226;&#0172;"s light liquorice essence worked well with the scallop.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 3: Petit Chausson de Canard Sauvage et Pistaches, Chicor&#0195;&#0169;e Rotie Minute et Sauce Rouennaise. Hot Wild Duck Pie with Pistachios and Roasted Endive Salad. Flaky pastry filled with wild duck and pistachio was accompanied by roast endive in sauce Rouennaise. The pie was perfect: short, buttery crust, lined with moist inner layer and stuffed with steaming, strong, tender duck. The nuts offered mild sweetness and creamy chewiness; whilst the sauce, a Bordelaise (dry red wine, bone marrow, shallots and demi-glace) with pur&#0195;&#0169;ed duck foie gras, was deliciously deep. Caramelised endive was delicately bitter and thus a good counterpoint to the richer meat and gravy. The exemplary execution and serious savours made this a wow.<br /><br />Plat Principal 1: Darne de Turbot Grill&#0195;&#0169;e et Beurre Blanc &#0195;&#0160; la Ciboulette. Grilled &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;T&#0226;&#0172;" Bone of Turbot, Chive Sauce, Chick Pea Chips and Courgette Cannelloni. Half a hunky chunk of T-bone Turbot, teamed with chive beurre blanc, came with thick-cut chickpea frites and ratatouille-packed courgette parcels. The charred fillet, flush with woody flavour, was great in texture and taste, its firm, white flesh falling off the fishy-spine in steak-like strips. The hot, buttery sauce, mildly onion and garlicky, was a superb condiment compliment. Ratatouille roll mops were filled with smoky, earthy eggplant, sweet red pepper, tomato and onions. The chips were well-made, but seemed maybe surplus to requirements.<br /><br />Plat Principal 2: Le Li&#0195;&#0168;vre &#0195;&#0160; la Royale. Classic Braised Stuffed Saddle of Hare and Swiss Chard. Legendary Li&#0195;&#0168;vre &#0195;&#0160; la Royale is soaked in history and tradition and marked as the &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;most mythical meal in French cuisine&#0226;&#0172;". Its actual recipe, however, is much disputed.<br /><br />Original credit for the creation commonly lies with Senator Aristide Couteaux, who in November 1898, instead of his usual political column in Le Temps newspaper, published directions for a new dish. He reported of his week in Poitou hunting a special hare and, once catching it, taking the Paris train straight to his chef-friend, M. Sp&#0195;&#0188;ller in Rue Favart, famous in his day. Couteaux&#0226;&#0172;"s instructions are retold in Elizabeth David&#0226;&#0172;"s A Book of Mediterranean Food: one requires (and I summarise) a hare, &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;cleanly killed&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;so not [to] have lost a drop of blood&#0226;&#0172;"; goose fat; bacon; good wine vinegar; red wine; 20 garlic cloves; 40 shallot cloves; carrot; onion; bouquet garni; plus optional cognac for the hare&#0226;&#0172;"s blood. The meat is stewed for hours in wine and sauce thickened with blood; if properly prepared, it is &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;needless to say, that to use a knife to serve the hare would be a sacrilege. A spoon alone is amply sufficient.&#0226;&#0172;" As Sp&#0195;&#0188;ller cooked this, its aroma alone, wafting from the restaurant, apparently had crowds of passers-by sniffing, straining and shoving their way to his door.<br /><br />However, Henri Babinski, writing in his Gastronomie Pratique (1907) under the brilliant anonym Ali Baba, contested the technique, claiming the animal should be boned, stuffed with foie gras and truffle, simmered slowly in wine and hare stock, with the end result resembling a ballotine served in thick slices with brandy-and-blood-thickened gravy.<br /><br />And, of course, there is a third way. Prosper Montagne, in Larousse Gastronomique (1938), states the hare be stuffed with a mixture including truffles, goose foie gras and hare blood and giblets, before being braised in white wine and briefly browned in the oven.<br /><br />Now, that was either Q.I. or quite boring, so let me return to Le Gavroche, whose chefs follow, fittingly, Ali Baba&#0226;&#0172;"s ten-page preparation (probably because Couteaux&#0226;&#0172;"s civet demands seven days spent hunting and seven hours in the kitchen). The ballotine of boned, foie gras-stuffed saddle of hare, sitting in red wine and blood sauce strewn with wild mushrooms, was served with Swiss chard gratin. The hare was lusciously strong and gamey; its dark red meat, robust and dense, contrasted well with the sweeter, softer foie gras-filling. Sticky, potent, powerful bloody gravy was lip-smackingly good and added essential moisture to le li&#0195;&#0168;vre. The nutty, creamy Gruy&#0195;&#0168;re gratin of earthy chard was savoury-sweet and cheesy-rich, complementing the similarly earthy and nutty, plump mushrooms.<br /><br />Plat Principal 3: Perdreau R&#0195;&#0180;ti en Cocotte &#0195;&#0160; l&#0226;&#0172;"Alsacienne. Roast Partridge with Sauerkraut, Roast Potato and Alsace Bacon. Whole partridge, roasted then baked in a sealed pot with its accompanying vegetables, was presented en cocotte, then carved tableside. Half the bird, roasted potato pair, Chantenay carrot couple and sauerkraut serving were plated then dressed with brandy jus for each of us (normally Alsace bacon would also be included). The plump partridge had moist, tender flesh with delicate, subtly gaminess whilst the brandy, blended with jus roti, made for a lovely, not overpowering sauce. Carrots were crisp and honey-like; potatoes, roasted perfectly; and sour cabbage had nice smokiness. This delicious dish, in Alsatian style - which explains the Germanic influence - was soft yet satisfying; all the simple elements gelling gently and comfortably together.<br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 06 Nov 2008 08:48:48 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1211v8s/le-gavroche/1c2q981511531964</guid>
      <dc:creator>Food_Snob</dc:creator>
      <category>french</category>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>romantic</category>
      <georss:point>51.51066145416 -0.15544060219917</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Maze Grill - Joy to behold. by bellaphon</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1f56x86/maze-grill/175qp7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/300570_47375ab9.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/bellaphon_432d9c86.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/bellaphon">bellaphon</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 5.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7495 2211</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://gordonramsay.com/mazegrill</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=american'>american</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=romantic'>romantic</a></p>&#0226;&#0172;&#0220;A thing of beauty is a joy for ever:<br />Its loveliness increases; it will never<br />Pass into nothingness;&#0226;&#0172;" Endymion by John Keats.<br /><br />I have an idiosyncratic aunt, who loves her steak well done, in fact preferably charred to death. Many a time I&#0226;&#0172;"ve witnessed the piece of meat on her plate embarrassingly returned to the kitchen to be re-cooked because a slight hue of pinkyness had been detected. A good steak is primarily a wonderful thing and to have it cooked well done will most definitely pass into nothingness.<br /><br />I was and still am apprehensive about the ambience of the dining room. It&#0226;&#0172;"s got that clinically corporate thing about it. Being south facing, I can only assume the bright room is thus perfect for business lunches and the evenings will probably appeal to romantic couples who crave dark incandescent lighting. When booking go for table 228, this is where the entire dining room is under your watchful eyes and the happy kitchen just behind you. The service from the friendly staff was brilliant but only let down by the usual incomprehensible English spoken (as we all agree, it&#0226;&#0172;"s all too common in London) when describing the dishes.<br /> <br />Small plates of Salt and pepper squid and Padron peppers were I thought pretty much generous in portions and thankfully delicious as well. My Creekstone New York strip steak was simply profound, this piece of meat was so totally melting and buttery, you might as well order it rare instead of my regretted choice of medium. My companion&#0226;&#0172;"s Aberdeen Angus fillet was the best he&#0226;&#0172;"s had until he tried my Creekstone. Like Barrafina, where we don&#0226;&#0172;"t have to fly to Barcelona for decent tapas; the Maze Grill have also done us more than a favour with the steak served, which can only be as good as the one found at Peter Luger in New York. Incidentally my accompanying sauce of Red wine &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;bordelaise&#0226;&#0172;" with crispy bone marrow was mind blowingly yummy and it ought to be rightfully merited as a standalone dish. Companion&#0226;&#0172;"s pudding choice of Cider apple trifle with financiers and cider granit&#0195;&#0169; was suggested refreshing and perfect after a gratifying steak. My three separate servings of Cinnamon doughnut, caf&#0195;&#0169; coupe, hot chocolate were delightful; those doughnuts were simply the best I&#0226;&#0172;"ve had. <br /> <br />There&#0226;&#0172;"s one thing for sure, there&#0226;&#0172;"s simply no way I&#0226;&#0172;"m going to tell my aunt about this place. Secondly LTS (life&#0226;&#0172;"s too short), go and treat yourself to possibly the finest steak you&#0226;&#0172;"ll have in Blighty.<br />&#0226;&#0172;&#0220;A thing of beauty is a joy for ever:<br />Its loveliness increases; it will never<br />Pass into nothingness;&#0226;&#0172;" Endymion by John Keats.<br /><br />I have an idiosyncratic aunt, who loves her steak well done, in fact preferably charred to death. Many a time I&#0226;&#0172;"ve witnessed the piece of meat on her plate embarrassingly returned to the kitchen to be re-cooked because a slight hue of pinkyness had been detected. A good steak is primarily a wonderful thing and to have it cooked well done will most definitely pass into nothingness.<br /><br />I was and still am apprehensive about the ambience of the dining room. It&#0226;&#0172;"s got that clinically corporate thing about it. Being south facing, I can only assume the bright room is thus perfect for business lunches and the evenings will probably appeal to romantic couples who crave dark incandescent lighting. When booking go for table 228, this is where the entire dining room is under your watchful eyes and the happy kitchen just behind you. The service from the friendly staff was brilliant but only let down by the usual incomprehensible English spoken (as we all agree, it&#0226;&#0172;"s all too common in London) when describing the dishes.<br /> <br />Small plates of Salt and pepper squid and Padron peppers were I thought pretty much generous in portions and thankfully delicious as well. My Creekstone New York strip steak was simply profound, this piece of meat was so totally melting and buttery, you might as well order it rare instead of my regretted choice of medium. My companion&#0226;&#0172;"s Aberdeen Angus fillet was the best he&#0226;&#0172;"s had until he tried my Creekstone. Like Barrafina, where we don&#0226;&#0172;"t have to fly to Barcelona for decent tapas; the Maze Grill have also done us more than a favour with the steak served, which can only be as good as the one found at Peter Luger in New York. Incidentally my accompanying sauce of Red wine &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;bordelaise&#0226;&#0172;" with crispy bone marrow was mind blowingly yummy and it ought to be rightfully merited as a standalone dish. Companion&#0226;&#0172;"s pudding choice of Cider apple trifle with financiers and cider granit&#0195;&#0169; was suggested refreshing and perfect after a gratifying steak. My three separate servings of Cinnamon doughnut, caf&#0195;&#0169; coupe, hot chocolate were delightful; those doughnuts were simply the best I&#0226;&#0172;"ve had. <br /> <br />There&#0226;&#0172;"s one thing for sure, there&#0226;&#0172;"s simply no way I&#0226;&#0172;"m going to tell my aunt about this place. Secondly LTS (life&#0226;&#0172;"s too short), go and treat yourself to possibly the finest steak you&#0226;&#0172;"ll have in Blighty.<br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 02 Nov 2008 22:38:24 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1f56x86/maze-grill/175qp74421339</guid>
      <dc:creator>bellaphon</dc:creator>
      <category>american</category>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>romantic</category>
      <georss:point>51.511537487707 -0.15396403544654</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The Grill Room at the Dorchester - The Grill at the Dorchester, 23 Oct 2008 by Food_Snob</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1r32j61/the-grill-room-at-the-dorchester/127q57</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/ldc_1r32j61.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/Food_Snob_fa684dec.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/Food_Snob">Food_Snob</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7317 6336</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.thedorchester.com/restaurants_bars/grill.html</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=british'>british</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=vegetarian dishes'>vegetarian dishes</a></p>Illustrated Critique:<br /><br />http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/23/the-grill-at-the-dorchester-london/<br /><br />Text-only Critique:<br /><br />Another week, another trilogy realised: I have now eaten at all of the Dorchester Hotel&#0226;&#0172;"s three restaurants. China Tang was long ago now and, bar maybe the best egg-fried rice I have ever had, was rather forgettable. Widely derided Alain Ducasse was a disappointment; here, again only one dish - Filets de sole &#0195;&#0160; la florentine, crevettes et champignons de Paris, sauce Ch&#0195;&#0162;teau Chalon - shone (very brightly), whilst desserts I thought terrible and I did try three.<br /><br />Already, automatically almost, I am inclined to favour the Grill. This is solely because it is the common casualty of some uncalled-for criticism from celebrated critic, AA Gill. Together with a favourite of mine, l&#0226;&#0172;"Ambassade de l&#0226;&#0172;"Ile, the Grill was awarded a single star (out of five) by this aforesaid assessor. Do not misunderstand - I do not mind if my judgment differs from his, but I do think that, after describing dishes as &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;utterly brilliant, deliciously flavoured&#0226;&#0172;" and all the cooking as &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;craftsmanlike, considered and thoughtful,&#0226;&#0172;" giving it only one star essentially because he did not like the d&#0195;&#0169;cor, is just misrepresentative. I will describe the Grill&#0226;&#0172;"s design in more detail later, but for now, let us just say Mr. Gill liked it even less than l&#0226;&#0172;"Ambassade&#0226;&#0172;"s.<br /><br />Built surprisingly recently, as late as 1931, the darling Dorchester is the babe of London&#0226;&#0172;"s bunch of grand hotels, but maybe my favourite. The Ritz oozes opulence; the Connaught is celebrated; Claridge&#0226;&#0172;"s, classy; the Savoy&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;shut; but the Dorchester endears, delights and has je ne sais quoi. In addition to its illustrious history of hospitality, the hotel also carries an important culinary legacy, of which the Grill is the greatest epitome. From here, Anton Mosimann revolutionised hotel dining in London with the 1975 introduction of his cuisine naturelle - a lighter, healthier way of eating - making the Dorchester&#0226;&#0172;"s the first hotel kitchen outside France to earn two Michelin stars. However, years past have seen such success stale and in an attempt to remedy this rot, 2006 saw the Dorchester Grill redubbed the Grill at the Dorchester and dramatically redesigned: from indulgently Iberian to scandalously Scottish. More significantly, a new chef was sought to replace the out-going (to Tom&#0226;&#0172;"s Kitchen) Ollie Couillard, who had struggled to stamp his mark on the restaurant. Indeed, the Grill is a tall order for any chef: first, there is its tradition as a bastion of Britishness to bear, but then there is the bad name gained for being the boring retreat of the blue-rinse mob.<br /><br />Aiden Byrne was approached. Young, dynamic and English, Aiden - the youngest chef ever to win a Michelin star - was seen as the ideal man to inherit the helm. However, he was at first hesitant. Visiting the restaurant did not help: after watching &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;people falling asleep in their bowls of soup&#0226;&#0172;", his wife forbade him taking the job - &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;you&#0226;&#0172;"re not coming here,&#0226;&#0172;" she decided. Ultimately though, the lure of London&#0226;&#0172;"s bright lights proved too persuasive and he accepted the job in October 2006. Aiden, who had been running Danesfield House near Marlow, previously worked at Tom Aikens (1*) as head chef; Pied &#0195;&#0160; Terre (2*) as sous chef; Adlards, Norwich (1*) as head chef also; and Roscoff, Peacock Alley and the Commons (all in Dublin), chronologically. Thus he had learned directly from the likes of David Adlard, Paul Rankin, Richard Neat and, his mentor, master emulsifier, Tom Aikens. Aiden also, aptly, brings with him a passion for British cooking and ingredients: &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;my aim has always been to shatter the myth that British food has to be heavy and old-fashioned and to highlight the fact they we have some of the finest suppliers and produce in the world.&#0226;&#0172;" Sounds like a marriage made in heaven&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;<br /><br />The Grill&#0226;&#0172;"s gilded gateway is found along the opulent promenade - which happens to stretch the same length as Nelson&#0226;&#0172;"s Column - that runs through the hotel&#0226;&#0172;"s heart. That doorway may as well be a wormhole; entering the dining room, one is transported three hundred years into the past and three hundred miles north, to Bonnie Scotland. The d&#0195;&#0169;cor was the million pound masterpiece of Thierry Despont, the same man charged with restoring nothing less than the Statue of Liberty. I can imagine what had happened: as deadline day drew near, this Frenchman, wrestling to overcome some mammoth mental roadblock and desperate for inspiration, must have found it in one of two places. The first was at the breakfast table: deliberating his dilemma over a bowl of porridge, his attention was arrested by the box, of Scott&#0226;&#0172;"s Porridge Oats of course, and his theme was determined then. But, on second thoughts, this is unlikely - they do not really do breakfast across la Manche, petit dejeuner there consists of cigarettes et caf&#0195;&#0169;, n&#0226;&#0172;"est-ce pas? The second scenario saw his motivation come from the menu itself, opening it, reading the first item &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Oak Smoked Scottish Salmon&#0226;&#0172;" - it must have been the Sunday lunch menu - he decided he had struck gold: reminiscences of the Auld Alliance, la Vieille Alliance, swelled in his breast and this witty Frenchman, in mocking, defiant stand against les Rosbifs built a shrine to all that is Scottish. Historical note: this accord between France and Scotland aimed specifically against England culminated in the 1421 Battle of Bauge when the &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Army of Scotland&#0226;&#0172;", part of the French royal service, defeated Albion&#0226;&#0172;"s army and earned themselves the appellation &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;antidote to the English&#0226;&#0172;".<br /><br />Getting back on track&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;tartan dominates the room: green-and-thatched-red tartan carpets the floor; two types of it - green/navy/red-pinstripe and red/scarlet/green-pinstripe - upholster the high-backed armchairs; the same green/navy one wraps the wine shelves on either side of the dining area; whilst the red tartan lines dresser screens. The focal point is a large four-sided centre-couch complete with comfy cushions and crowned by a large bronze urn filled with several dozen roses. The glossy, golden-brown burnished walls are adorned in &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Carry on Ceilidhing&#0226;&#0172;&#0220; style with the Grill&#0226;&#0172;"s most controversial feature -10ft tall highlanders and highland-lassies, unsurprisingly, togged up in more tartan. Other minor talking points include bright red, velvet bedsteads on some of the seating. Four large chandeliers hang from the cream ceiling. The restaurant, fitting about eighty, is filled with square tables dressed with white linen and finely furnished with elegant J.L. Coquet crockery, silver salt-and-pepper shakers made by Peugeot and a pair of fresh-cut roses. <br /><br />I could continue writing all day, but I best stop and cut to the chase: the food.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 1: Lemongrass and Carrot Soup. An attention-grabbing amuse of lemongrass and carrot complete with spherificated cylindrical of coriander awakened our taste-buds. Each spoonful surrendered short sweetness succeeded by a deep, almost sharp finish from the lemony, gingery grass. The bitter bubble burst with a warm, citric spiciness that complemented the lemongrass.<br /><br />Les Pains: Five seed & cereal; Brown rye; Walnut, thyme & onion; and Stilton. A four-strong selection of homemade breads was offered. A soft, wholemeal brown rye came plain or filled with five seeds and cereal. Walnut, thyme and onion was well-seasoned with the strong aroma and flavour of minty, lemon-like thyme and had a nice, nutty coat. The most interesting of all, however, was the Stilton. This fluffy, white bread with well-baked crust had a mellow, earthy essence; the potentially overpowering quality of the blue cheese was kept comfortably under control. Lescure butter from Normandy, with its characteristic gentle tang, was served alongside.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 1: Braised Chicken with potato and truffle cannelloni. An Aiden signature dish of three braised, boned chicken wings came sandwiched between two cannelloni - one of crispy spud filled with soup of potato, warm milk and truffle oil and another of chicken and truffle mousse - with a tater tuile, buckler-leaf sorrel garnish and dressed in truffle oil, chive and chicken jus sabayon. The mouth-watering wings, from Jason Wise of Ark Chicken, with sticky, caramelised skin, were succulent and flavourful. The pipe of pommes pur&#0195;&#0169;e was soft and smooth with earthy, fungi depth. The cylinder of chicken mousse, also containing crunchy, diced potato, was just as creamy. The buckler-leaf sorrel supplied a welcome acidic, clean note of lemon, whilst the gorgeous gravy had smoky intensity from the truffle and richness from the jus roti. of Pied &#0195;&#0160; Terre&#0226;&#0172;"s Shane Osborne described this as &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;one of my best dishes of the year,&#0226;&#0172;" whereas, for me, it brought back memories of mumsy&#0226;&#0172;"s mash.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 2: Peach and Tomato Salad with pine vinaigrette. A rather summery second starter followed the first: slices of peach, heirloom, ripe and unripe tomato, served with peach and tomato fondants, peach mousse and tomato foam, were presented peppered with pine nuts, drizzled in vinaigrette and bedecked with baby basil and dill. The juicy, fragrant peach and faintly tangy tomato made a refreshing pair that was balanced by the sweetly-acidic sherry vinaigrette. The herbs added subtle sweetness and faint pungency to the plate; toasted nuts, crunch and creaminess; whilst a little olive oil, vibrant fruity flavour. I particularly liked the use of uncommon green tomato, which sprinkled with salt, is a favourite summer snack of mine.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 3: Poached Scallops with autumn vegetables and lemon thyme butter. A plenteous portion of four poached scallops were produced accompanied by an assortment of autumnal vegetables and light lemon thyme butter sauce. Moist, soft, sweet shellfish, slow cooked in vegetable broth, had firm, fine texture, full flavour and fell effortlessly apart. The collection of carefully chopped, crunchy, al dente greens - carrot, celeriac, courgette, fennel and onion - had delicate sweetness; and lemon rind julienne were pleasingly sour without being harsh. The delightful dressing, brimming with citric buzz, brought together and enlivened all the elements on the dish. The minty thyme and trim of parsley added additional refreshing tang.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e de Mon Fr&#0195;&#0168;re: Watercress Soup with poached cod and hen&#0226;&#0172;"s egg. My brother&#0226;&#0172;"s menu du jour commenced with classic British watercress soup, suitably coloured British racing green. Partnering the potage was poached pairing of hen&#0226;&#0172;"s egg covering chunky cod. Good, gently grainy consistency was backed up with stimulating, peppery savour. The egg was well-cooked and agreeably gooey, whilst the cod, tender and flaky. The Stilton bread came into its own when called upon to clean up the remnants of the soup.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 4: Chilled Beetroot Gazpacho with avocado sorbet and vodka jelly. A Tyrian purple bloodbath of beetroot boasted two buoyant islands of cloudy vodka jelly and electric-chartreuse avocado sorbet quenelles. This second speciality of Aiden&#0226;&#0172;"s was pregnant with powerful and complicated flavours: the very unctuous concoction gushed with earthy, sour and sweet smokiness; the vodka shot was seriously strong and sharp, but just about kept in check by the creamy, cooling assistance of avocado. This was a witty reworking of traditional beet borsht, itself customarily complemented with vodka. The potent potion of cooked and uncooked beetroot, golden beet, vanilla, apple juice, vinegar and coriander leaf was striking both in presentation and on the palate. The enduring vision of le visage de mon petit fr&#0195;&#0168;re swollen with wide, surprised smile, showing off teeth sopping with bleeding beet juice just like a vampire, still amuses me.<br /><br />Plat Principal: Roasted Turbot with lobster, apple and rosemary. A tripartite delight of three of my most favoured foods - turbot, lobster and sweetbread - saw the harvest of the soil, shoreline and shallower sea amassed upon a single plate. The roasted, golden-tanned turbot, with its delectable, distinguished taste, was excellently cooked and flawlessly flaky (it also came with Parma ham, which I removed); the fishy fillet sat atop apple julienne. Half-tail of bouncy, lissom lobster, roasted in rosemary, was warmed by the woody sweetness of the herb. The unannounced, but not unwelcome cannelloni of succulent sweetbread, moist lobster meat and diced roasted apple (within and atop) was seasoned with Calvados - that in true trou Normand fashion rewoke my appetite. The deeply delicious and creamy, enjoyably chewy roll was rich and intoxicating. Apple and more robust rosemary pur&#0195;&#0169;e puddles mingled in the middle of the dish with concentrated, condensed sauce of veal jus, rosemary, roasted apple again and lobster oil. The successful application of apple, whose fruitiness underscored the subtly sweet savour of the shellfish, fish and meaty gland, was inspired. This intricate, intense dish was well-relished.<br /><br />Plat Principal de Mon Fr&#0195;&#0168;re: Angus Beef with Yorkshire Pudding. Served elegantly and traditionally tableside from the trolley by Victor, this was the second piece of British culinary culture on today&#0226;&#0172;"s carte. A plethora of porcelain ramekins and bronze bowls brimful of a variety of vegetables in light Hollandaise sauce; mustard, English and French (le meilleur, Victor nous a dit); horseradish; and Madeira gravy accompanied tender, pink carvings of medium-rare rib of Aberdeen Angus beef and jumbo crispy Yorkshire pudding. My brother&#0226;&#0172;"s beef was juicy and good quality; the roast potatoes were better than textbook with great crumbly coat; the saut&#0195;&#0169;ed-in-orange-juice carrots struck a pleasing chord with him; but he ignored the steamed broccoli. Digressing, I must mention the lovely handcrafted Laguiole-en-Aubrac steak knife set for this course that caught my eye.<br />Illustrated Critique:<br /><br />http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/23/the-grill-at-the-dorchester-london/<br /><br />Text-only Critique:<br /><br />Another week, another trilogy realised: I have now eaten at all of the Dorchester Hotel&#0226;&#0172;"s three restaurants. China Tang was long ago now and, bar maybe the best egg-fried rice I have ever had, was rather forgettable. Widely derided Alain Ducasse was a disappointment; here, again only one dish - Filets de sole &#0195;&#0160; la florentine, crevettes et champignons de Paris, sauce Ch&#0195;&#0162;teau Chalon - shone (very brightly), whilst desserts I thought terrible and I did try three.<br /><br />Already, automatically almost, I am inclined to favour the Grill. This is solely because it is the common casualty of some uncalled-for criticism from celebrated critic, AA Gill. Together with a favourite of mine, l&#0226;&#0172;"Ambassade de l&#0226;&#0172;"Ile, the Grill was awarded a single star (out of five) by this aforesaid assessor. Do not misunderstand - I do not mind if my judgment differs from his, but I do think that, after describing dishes as &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;utterly brilliant, deliciously flavoured&#0226;&#0172;" and all the cooking as &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;craftsmanlike, considered and thoughtful,&#0226;&#0172;" giving it only one star essentially because he did not like the d&#0195;&#0169;cor, is just misrepresentative. I will describe the Grill&#0226;&#0172;"s design in more detail later, but for now, let us just say Mr. Gill liked it even less than l&#0226;&#0172;"Ambassade&#0226;&#0172;"s.<br /><br />Built surprisingly recently, as late as 1931, the darling Dorchester is the babe of London&#0226;&#0172;"s bunch of grand hotels, but maybe my favourite. The Ritz oozes opulence; the Connaught is celebrated; Claridge&#0226;&#0172;"s, classy; the Savoy&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;shut; but the Dorchester endears, delights and has je ne sais quoi. In addition to its illustrious history of hospitality, the hotel also carries an important culinary legacy, of which the Grill is the greatest epitome. From here, Anton Mosimann revolutionised hotel dining in London with the 1975 introduction of his cuisine naturelle - a lighter, healthier way of eating - making the Dorchester&#0226;&#0172;"s the first hotel kitchen outside France to earn two Michelin stars. However, years past have seen such success stale and in an attempt to remedy this rot, 2006 saw the Dorchester Grill redubbed the Grill at the Dorchester and dramatically redesigned: from indulgently Iberian to scandalously Scottish. More significantly, a new chef was sought to replace the out-going (to Tom&#0226;&#0172;"s Kitchen) Ollie Couillard, who had struggled to stamp his mark on the restaurant. Indeed, the Grill is a tall order for any chef: first, there is its tradition as a bastion of Britishness to bear, but then there is the bad name gained for being the boring retreat of the blue-rinse mob.<br /><br />Aiden Byrne was approached. Young, dynamic and English, Aiden - the youngest chef ever to win a Michelin star - was seen as the ideal man to inherit the helm. However, he was at first hesitant. Visiting the restaurant did not help: after watching &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;people falling asleep in their bowls of soup&#0226;&#0172;", his wife forbade him taking the job - &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;you&#0226;&#0172;"re not coming here,&#0226;&#0172;" she decided. Ultimately though, the lure of London&#0226;&#0172;"s bright lights proved too persuasive and he accepted the job in October 2006. Aiden, who had been running Danesfield House near Marlow, previously worked at Tom Aikens (1*) as head chef; Pied &#0195;&#0160; Terre (2*) as sous chef; Adlards, Norwich (1*) as head chef also; and Roscoff, Peacock Alley and the Commons (all in Dublin), chronologically. Thus he had learned directly from the likes of David Adlard, Paul Rankin, Richard Neat and, his mentor, master emulsifier, Tom Aikens. Aiden also, aptly, brings with him a passion for British cooking and ingredients: &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;my aim has always been to shatter the myth that British food has to be heavy and old-fashioned and to highlight the fact they we have some of the finest suppliers and produce in the world.&#0226;&#0172;" Sounds like a marriage made in heaven&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;<br /><br />The Grill&#0226;&#0172;"s gilded gateway is found along the opulent promenade - which happens to stretch the same length as Nelson&#0226;&#0172;"s Column - that runs through the hotel&#0226;&#0172;"s heart. That doorway may as well be a wormhole; entering the dining room, one is transported three hundred years into the past and three hundred miles north, to Bonnie Scotland. The d&#0195;&#0169;cor was the million pound masterpiece of Thierry Despont, the same man charged with restoring nothing less than the Statue of Liberty. I can imagine what had happened: as deadline day drew near, this Frenchman, wrestling to overcome some mammoth mental roadblock and desperate for inspiration, must have found it in one of two places. The first was at the breakfast table: deliberating his dilemma over a bowl of porridge, his attention was arrested by the box, of Scott&#0226;&#0172;"s Porridge Oats of course, and his theme was determined then. But, on second thoughts, this is unlikely - they do not really do breakfast across la Manche, petit dejeuner there consists of cigarettes et caf&#0195;&#0169;, n&#0226;&#0172;"est-ce pas? The second scenario saw his motivation come from the menu itself, opening it, reading the first item &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Oak Smoked Scottish Salmon&#0226;&#0172;" - it must have been the Sunday lunch menu - he decided he had struck gold: reminiscences of the Auld Alliance, la Vieille Alliance, swelled in his breast and this witty Frenchman, in mocking, defiant stand against les Rosbifs built a shrine to all that is Scottish. Historical note: this accord between France and Scotland aimed specifically against England culminated in the 1421 Battle of Bauge when the &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Army of Scotland&#0226;&#0172;", part of the French royal service, defeated Albion&#0226;&#0172;"s army and earned themselves the appellation &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;antidote to the English&#0226;&#0172;".<br /><br />Getting back on track&#0226;&#0172;&#0166;tartan dominates the room: green-and-thatched-red tartan carpets the floor; two types of it - green/navy/red-pinstripe and red/scarlet/green-pinstripe - upholster the high-backed armchairs; the same green/navy one wraps the wine shelves on either side of the dining area; whilst the red tartan lines dresser screens. The focal point is a large four-sided centre-couch complete with comfy cushions and crowned by a large bronze urn filled with several dozen roses. The glossy, golden-brown burnished walls are adorned in &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Carry on Ceilidhing&#0226;&#0172;&#0220; style with the Grill&#0226;&#0172;"s most controversial feature -10ft tall highlanders and highland-lassies, unsurprisingly, togged up in more tartan. Other minor talking points include bright red, velvet bedsteads on some of the seating. Four large chandeliers hang from the cream ceiling. The restaurant, fitting about eighty, is filled with square tables dressed with white linen and finely furnished with elegant J.L. Coquet crockery, silver salt-and-pepper shakers made by Peugeot and a pair of fresh-cut roses. <br /><br />I could continue writing all day, but I best stop and cut to the chase: the food.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 1: Lemongrass and Carrot Soup. An attention-grabbing amuse of lemongrass and carrot complete with spherificated cylindrical of coriander awakened our taste-buds. Each spoonful surrendered short sweetness succeeded by a deep, almost sharp finish from the lemony, gingery grass. The bitter bubble burst with a warm, citric spiciness that complemented the lemongrass.<br /><br />Les Pains: Five seed & cereal; Brown rye; Walnut, thyme & onion; and Stilton. A four-strong selection of homemade breads was offered. A soft, wholemeal brown rye came plain or filled with five seeds and cereal. Walnut, thyme and onion was well-seasoned with the strong aroma and flavour of minty, lemon-like thyme and had a nice, nutty coat. The most interesting of all, however, was the Stilton. This fluffy, white bread with well-baked crust had a mellow, earthy essence; the potentially overpowering quality of the blue cheese was kept comfortably under control. Lescure butter from Normandy, with its characteristic gentle tang, was served alongside.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 1: Braised Chicken with potato and truffle cannelloni. An Aiden signature dish of three braised, boned chicken wings came sandwiched between two cannelloni - one of crispy spud filled with soup of potato, warm milk and truffle oil and another of chicken and truffle mousse - with a tater tuile, buckler-leaf sorrel garnish and dressed in truffle oil, chive and chicken jus sabayon. The mouth-watering wings, from Jason Wise of Ark Chicken, with sticky, caramelised skin, were succulent and flavourful. The pipe of pommes pur&#0195;&#0169;e was soft and smooth with earthy, fungi depth. The cylinder of chicken mousse, also containing crunchy, diced potato, was just as creamy. The buckler-leaf sorrel supplied a welcome acidic, clean note of lemon, whilst the gorgeous gravy had smoky intensity from the truffle and richness from the jus roti. of Pied &#0195;&#0160; Terre&#0226;&#0172;"s Shane Osborne described this as &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;one of my best dishes of the year,&#0226;&#0172;" whereas, for me, it brought back memories of mumsy&#0226;&#0172;"s mash.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 2: Peach and Tomato Salad with pine vinaigrette. A rather summery second starter followed the first: slices of peach, heirloom, ripe and unripe tomato, served with peach and tomato fondants, peach mousse and tomato foam, were presented peppered with pine nuts, drizzled in vinaigrette and bedecked with baby basil and dill. The juicy, fragrant peach and faintly tangy tomato made a refreshing pair that was balanced by the sweetly-acidic sherry vinaigrette. The herbs added subtle sweetness and faint pungency to the plate; toasted nuts, crunch and creaminess; whilst a little olive oil, vibrant fruity flavour. I particularly liked the use of uncommon green tomato, which sprinkled with salt, is a favourite summer snack of mine.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 3: Poached Scallops with autumn vegetables and lemon thyme butter. A plenteous portion of four poached scallops were produced accompanied by an assortment of autumnal vegetables and light lemon thyme butter sauce. Moist, soft, sweet shellfish, slow cooked in vegetable broth, had firm, fine texture, full flavour and fell effortlessly apart. The collection of carefully chopped, crunchy, al dente greens - carrot, celeriac, courgette, fennel and onion - had delicate sweetness; and lemon rind julienne were pleasingly sour without being harsh. The delightful dressing, brimming with citric buzz, brought together and enlivened all the elements on the dish. The minty thyme and trim of parsley added additional refreshing tang.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e de Mon Fr&#0195;&#0168;re: Watercress Soup with poached cod and hen&#0226;&#0172;"s egg. My brother&#0226;&#0172;"s menu du jour commenced with classic British watercress soup, suitably coloured British racing green. Partnering the potage was poached pairing of hen&#0226;&#0172;"s egg covering chunky cod. Good, gently grainy consistency was backed up with stimulating, peppery savour. The egg was well-cooked and agreeably gooey, whilst the cod, tender and flaky. The Stilton bread came into its own when called upon to clean up the remnants of the soup.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 4: Chilled Beetroot Gazpacho with avocado sorbet and vodka jelly. A Tyrian purple bloodbath of beetroot boasted two buoyant islands of cloudy vodka jelly and electric-chartreuse avocado sorbet quenelles. This second speciality of Aiden&#0226;&#0172;"s was pregnant with powerful and complicated flavours: the very unctuous concoction gushed with earthy, sour and sweet smokiness; the vodka shot was seriously strong and sharp, but just about kept in check by the creamy, cooling assistance of avocado. This was a witty reworking of traditional beet borsht, itself customarily complemented with vodka. The potent potion of cooked and uncooked beetroot, golden beet, vanilla, apple juice, vinegar and coriander leaf was striking both in presentation and on the palate. The enduring vision of le visage de mon petit fr&#0195;&#0168;re swollen with wide, surprised smile, showing off teeth sopping with bleeding beet juice just like a vampire, still amuses me.<br /><br />Plat Principal: Roasted Turbot with lobster, apple and rosemary. A tripartite delight of three of my most favoured foods - turbot, lobster and sweetbread - saw the harvest of the soil, shoreline and shallower sea amassed upon a single plate. The roasted, golden-tanned turbot, with its delectable, distinguished taste, was excellently cooked and flawlessly flaky (it also came with Parma ham, which I removed); the fishy fillet sat atop apple julienne. Half-tail of bouncy, lissom lobster, roasted in rosemary, was warmed by the woody sweetness of the herb. The unannounced, but not unwelcome cannelloni of succulent sweetbread, moist lobster meat and diced roasted apple (within and atop) was seasoned with Calvados - that in true trou Normand fashion rewoke my appetite. The deeply delicious and creamy, enjoyably chewy roll was rich and intoxicating. Apple and more robust rosemary pur&#0195;&#0169;e puddles mingled in the middle of the dish with concentrated, condensed sauce of veal jus, rosemary, roasted apple again and lobster oil. The successful application of apple, whose fruitiness underscored the subtly sweet savour of the shellfish, fish and meaty gland, was inspired. This intricate, intense dish was well-relished.<br /><br />Plat Principal de Mon Fr&#0195;&#0168;re: Angus Beef with Yorkshire Pudding. Served elegantly and traditionally tableside from the trolley by Victor, this was the second piece of British culinary culture on today&#0226;&#0172;"s carte. A plethora of porcelain ramekins and bronze bowls brimful of a variety of vegetables in light Hollandaise sauce; mustard, English and French (le meilleur, Victor nous a dit); horseradish; and Madeira gravy accompanied tender, pink carvings of medium-rare rib of Aberdeen Angus beef and jumbo crispy Yorkshire pudding. My brother&#0226;&#0172;"s beef was juicy and good quality; the roast potatoes were better than textbook with great crumbly coat; the saut&#0195;&#0169;ed-in-orange-juice carrots struck a pleasing chord with him; but he ignored the steamed broccoli. Digressing, I must mention the lovely handcrafted Laguiole-en-Aubrac steak knife set for this course that caught my eye.<br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 30 Oct 2008 04:12:46 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1r32j61/the-grill-room-at-the-dorchester/127q57101169930</guid>
      <dc:creator>Food_Snob</dc:creator>
      <category>british</category>
      <category>vegetarian dishes</category>
      <georss:point>51.509459 -0.155559</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Chor Bizarre - India's Restaurant - My Reviews by Witherspoon</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1i01f8k/chor-bizarre-india-s-restaurant/1h5po8</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/1i01f8k_4ae6804e.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_user.gif" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/Witherspoon">Witherspoon</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 5.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7629 9802</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.chorbizarre.com</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=indian'>indian</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=good value'>good value</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=lively'>lively</a></p>Well, me and my wife, we have been to Chor Bizarre many a times. To tell you we fell in love with the food on our first visit itself. We go their often and would recommend it to all Indian food lovers.They have a really amusing theme of the restaurant even the food is amongst the best being served by any Indian restaurant in London.Well, me and my wife, we have been to Chor Bizarre many a times. To tell you we fell in love with the food on our first visit itself. We go their often and would recommend it to all Indian food lovers.They have a really amusing theme of the restaurant even the food is amongst the best being served by any Indian restaurant in London.]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 16 Oct 2008 09:23:28 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1i01f8k/chor-bizarre-india-s-restaurant/1h5po82071252563</guid>
      <dc:creator>Witherspoon</dc:creator>
      <category>indian</category>
      <category>good value</category>
      <category>lively</category>
      <georss:point>51.509516 -0.142387</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Avista - As expected. Fine Dining. by neelmistry</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1g46f8p/avista/133p88</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_place.gif" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/neelmistry_6870451b.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/neelmistry">neelmistry</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 3.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7596 3399</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=italian'>italian</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=romantic'>romantic</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=good value'>good value</a></p>Went to Avista 3 days after its opening. I wasn&#39;t expecting much, but the quality of food was excellent, the staff friendly and efficient. I had the mozzarella and tomato tart to start which is little more than a large ball of cheese and pizza squares. The main was suitably better. I opted for the lamb gnocchi - delicious. They have a great wine list too. It&#39;ll get better. Ambiance and space wise - the restaurant is great, with a separate bar and one long table suitable for a party.Went to Avista 3 days after its opening. I wasn&#39;t expecting much, but the quality of food was excellent, the staff friendly and efficient. I had the mozzarella and tomato tart to start which is little more than a large ball of cheese and pizza squares. The main was suitably better. I opted for the lamb gnocchi - delicious. They have a great wine list too. It&#39;ll get better. Ambiance and space wise - the restaurant is great, with a separate bar and one long table suitable for a party.]]></description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 08 Oct 2008 22:01:04 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1g46f8p/avista/133p881158213850</guid>
      <dc:creator>neelmistry</dc:creator>
      <category>italian</category>
      <category>romantic</category>
      <category>good value</category>
      <georss:point>51.512109 -0.151645</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Hard Rock Cafe - Hard rock cafe by sexyuklad</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1p02u73/hard-rock-cafe/125pg7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/126795_154078dd.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/sexyuklad_99b88d8a.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/sexyuklad">sexyuklad</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 3.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7629 0382</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.hardrock.com</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=american'>american</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=lively'>lively</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a></p>I have only eaten here the once and probably wont eat there again as to me it is too expensive and the wait to be seated is unbelievable&#33;<br /><br />I will admit that the food portions were relatively big and tasted pretty good but the prices are just too much. I would only recommend going there as a treat or if you can afford their prices.<br /><br />You definitely need to pre-book your table as when I went there they gave us this little control thing that beeps when it is your turn but we waited for nearly two hours&#33;<br /><br />Oh they also have a little shop/museum thing next door.<br />I have only eaten here the once and probably wont eat there again as to me it is too expensive and the wait to be seated is unbelievable&#33;<br /><br />I will admit that the food portions were relatively big and tasted pretty good but the prices are just too much. I would only recommend going there as a treat or if you can afford their prices.<br /><br />You definitely need to pre-book your table as when I went there they gave us this little control thing that beeps when it is your turn but we waited for nearly two hours&#33;<br /><br />Oh they also have a little shop/museum thing next door.<br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Wed, 08 Oct 2008 16:03:45 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1p02u73/hard-rock-cafe/125pg72002906354</guid>
      <dc:creator>sexyuklad</dc:creator>
      <category>american</category>
      <category>lively</category>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <georss:point>51.504717 -0.149775</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Sakura - The worst dinning experience in my entire life by professionalabc</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1p62s7x/sakura/1w3oh8</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/126753_377c9765.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_user.gif" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/professionalabc">professionalabc</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 1.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7629 2961</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=japanese'>japanese</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=crowded'>crowded</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a></p>Sakura Japanese restaurant is the worst japanese restaurant I have ever been in my life. Awful services&#33; I arrived the restaurant in the afternoon. And I and my frd requested another table due to the noisy environment. We sat down, and one of the staff came and requested us to move to another table due to the closure of the particular area. We moved to a 4 person table and the manager came to us, and took our menus away from us very rudely, without saying a word, and forced us to another table which is the original one. We refused and the guy just stared at us very rudely. I can never believe I have ever been to a restaurant like this&#33;Sakura Japanese restaurant is the worst japanese restaurant I have ever been in my life. Awful services&#33; I arrived the restaurant in the afternoon. And I and my frd requested another table due to the noisy environment. We sat down, and one of the staff came and requested us to move to another table due to the closure of the particular area. We moved to a 4 person table and the manager came to us, and took our menus away from us very rudely, without saying a word, and forced us to another table which is the original one. We refused and the guy just stared at us very rudely. I can never believe I have ever been to a restaurant like this&#33;]]></description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 07 Oct 2008 17:39:23 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1p62s7x/sakura/1w3oh8367781599</guid>
      <dc:creator>professionalabc</dc:creator>
      <category>japanese</category>
      <category>crowded</category>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <georss:point>51.513722 -0.14283</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>El Pirata Of Mayfair - Great ambience and tapas by Camelia</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1n82h7m/el-pirata-of-mayfair/1z6nn8</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/123754_01d413d5.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_user.gif" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/Camelia">Camelia</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7409 1315</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.elpirata.co.uk</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=spanish'>spanish</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=romantic'>romantic</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=friendly'>friendly</a></p>A short walk from Green Park tube will take you to Down Street and a world away from the hustle and bustle of London, to soak up the taste of Spain.<br /><br />Having been to the home of tapas, Seville, I was transported back to Andalucia with the easy charm of the waiting staff and the delicious food and wine.  <br /><br />I chose the most Andalucian dishes I could find, to pretend that I was on holiday, instead of just up the road from the office.  The broad bean casserole with pancetta was delicious and the kidneys in sherry, sublime.<br /><br />Go on your own for a quiet lunch or take your friends - either way you can take advantage of the lunch special of 2 tapas and a glass of wine or beer for under a tenner.<br /><br />Muy bien&#33;A short walk from Green Park tube will take you to Down Street and a world away from the hustle and bustle of London, to soak up the taste of Spain.<br /><br />Having been to the home of tapas, Seville, I was transported back to Andalucia with the easy charm of the waiting staff and the delicious food and wine.  <br /><br />I chose the most Andalucian dishes I could find, to pretend that I was on holiday, instead of just up the road from the office.  The broad bean casserole with pancetta was delicious and the kidneys in sherry, sublime.<br /><br />Go on your own for a quiet lunch or take your friends - either way you can take advantage of the lunch special of 2 tapas and a glass of wine or beer for under a tenner.<br /><br />Muy bien&#33;]]></description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 30 Sep 2008 16:32:27 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1n82h7m/el-pirata-of-mayfair/1z6nn81274723044</guid>
      <dc:creator>Camelia</dc:creator>
      <category>spanish</category>
      <category>romantic</category>
      <category>friendly</category>
      <georss:point>51.50511 -0.148355</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Delfino - great Pizza in Mayfair by ProfMagellan</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1w1238a/delfino/1t7nw7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/ldc_1w1238a.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/sokratis_02802e83.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/ProfMagellan">ProfMagellan</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7499 1256</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=italian'>italian</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=pizzeria'>pizzeria</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=crowded'>crowded</a></p>I have always liked Mount Street despite the fact that the most unpleasant person whom I have ever encountered used to have an office there (he has since moved - though not, as I had rather hoped, to HM Prison Wandsworth).<br />On a drizzly autumn day this place was totally heaving.<br />Very close to the Connaught Hotel, Delfino is housed in one of those splendid redbrick buildings no doubt owned by his Grace the Duke of Westminster. I am not sure if his Lordship likes pizzas but, if he does, this would be a place he would go. A fabulous selection and, by Mayfair standards, fairly priced (lunch for two plus coffee and mineral water was around &#0194;&#0163;30). Most of the other punters seemed to be hedge fund managers in a hurry. So service was spectacularly fast, efficient and very friendly - from the manager&#39;s greeting on arrival to the time we left.<br />Tables are jam packed together; so good for a quick bite<br />rather than a big occasion. I would advise booking.I have always liked Mount Street despite the fact that the most unpleasant person whom I have ever encountered used to have an office there (he has since moved - though not, as I had rather hoped, to HM Prison Wandsworth).<br />On a drizzly autumn day this place was totally heaving.<br />Very close to the Connaught Hotel, Delfino is housed in one of those splendid redbrick buildings no doubt owned by his Grace the Duke of Westminster. I am not sure if his Lordship likes pizzas but, if he does, this would be a place he would go. A fabulous selection and, by Mayfair standards, fairly priced (lunch for two plus coffee and mineral water was around &#0194;&#0163;30). Most of the other punters seemed to be hedge fund managers in a hurry. So service was spectacularly fast, efficient and very friendly - from the manager&#39;s greeting on arrival to the time we left.<br />Tables are jam packed together; so good for a quick bite<br />rather than a big occasion. I would advise booking.]]></description>
      <pubDate>Sun, 28 Sep 2008 10:48:27 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1w1238a/delfino/1t7nw72059228544</guid>
      <dc:creator>ProfMagellan</dc:creator>
      <category>italian</category>
      <category>pizzeria</category>
      <category>crowded</category>
      <georss:point>51.510222 -0.148229</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Umu - Treat Yourself by hollowlegs</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1a52l8x/umu/1r3ni7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/107061_1cb75d8e.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/hollowlegs_95e95ff7.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/hollowlegs">hollowlegs</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7499 8881</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=japanese'>japanese</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=sushi'>sushi</a></p>I was treated to dinner at Umu by my wonderful boyfriend and what a treat it was. On approach down a back alley in Mayfair, the facade of the restaurant isn&#39;t particularly imposing. I liked the panel which said &#39;Touch Here&#39; - by placing your hand on it, the entrance door slides open. A bit cool.<br /><br />On first impressions, the restaurant was very sleek indeed. Dark wooden tables lined the windows and there was a central bar style of seating, with a chef concentrating hard on slicing some fish.<br /><br />We were talked through the menu by our charming waiter, and a rather hefty menu at that. There was normal a la carte, and then a sashimi and sushi menu, and lastly the Kaiseki menus. Kaiseki is a speciality of Kyoto and is a banquet style of meal. It is said to be an art form that balances the taste, texture, and appearance of food.<br /><br />We decided to go with a Kaiseki menu. Two seasonal appetisers came cold; delicious. The flavour combinations were very clever indeed. A highlight was slowly cooked eel wrapped in marinated ginger. <br /><br />Next, the sashimi. Yellowtail, fatty tuna (I dribble at the memory) and sesame crusted mackerel. All super fresh, all delcious. Our waiter told us that the Japanese usually save a piece of fish for the end, whereby they wrap this fish and some grated daikon with the shiso leaf provided, and dunk it in the soy sauce. This we tried; it was interesting. The boyfriend proclaimed it delicious with the fatty tuna, but I found the  slightly astringent tang of the leaf overpowered my yellowtail. <br /><br />Next, a tofu-like (but was actually egg) stuffed with minced prawn in a savoury broth. Great texture and wobble. Here, our menus branched off as one of us had chosen the sushi royte. So while I had cold vegetables such as aubergine, pepper, turnip and okra with two pieces of octopus in a bonito jelly, the boyfriend had 3 pieces of nigiri. This was my least favourite dish of the meal. The flavours of the vegetables were very pure and fresh, balancing the octopus well, but there wasn&#39;t a lot to it. <br /><br />We then had a Shabu Shabu; a box each, complete with stock and a fierce tealight to keep it all cooking. Vegetables such as mushrooms, leeks and cabbage were provided as well as some thinly sliced fish and dipping sauces. All good fun, and the ponzu sauce was a favourite. <br /><br />The meal was drawing to a close with just a couple of courses left. A rather plain mushroom rice was jazzed up with all sorts of pickled vegetables and a deeply savoury red miso. Dessert was a highlight; plum seed jelly with seasonal fruits. Light and refreshing. <br /><br />I loved the meal we had here; it&#39;s unlike anything I&#39;ve eaten before, and it was all beautifully presented. The waiting staff were charming and inobtrusive. My only gripe is that they served some (ok, I counted; 3) of the courses while I had popped to the bathroom and so I missed some descriptions. So that&#39;s what that 1 remaining star is all about really. <br />I was treated to dinner at Umu by my wonderful boyfriend and what a treat it was. On approach down a back alley in Mayfair, the facade of the restaurant isn&#39;t particularly imposing. I liked the panel which said &#39;Touch Here&#39; - by placing your hand on it, the entrance door slides open. A bit cool.<br /><br />On first impressions, the restaurant was very sleek indeed. Dark wooden tables lined the windows and there was a central bar style of seating, with a chef concentrating hard on slicing some fish.<br /><br />We were talked through the menu by our charming waiter, and a rather hefty menu at that. There was normal a la carte, and then a sashimi and sushi menu, and lastly the Kaiseki menus. Kaiseki is a speciality of Kyoto and is a banquet style of meal. It is said to be an art form that balances the taste, texture, and appearance of food.<br /><br />We decided to go with a Kaiseki menu. Two seasonal appetisers came cold; delicious. The flavour combinations were very clever indeed. A highlight was slowly cooked eel wrapped in marinated ginger. <br /><br />Next, the sashimi. Yellowtail, fatty tuna (I dribble at the memory) and sesame crusted mackerel. All super fresh, all delcious. Our waiter told us that the Japanese usually save a piece of fish for the end, whereby they wrap this fish and some grated daikon with the shiso leaf provided, and dunk it in the soy sauce. This we tried; it was interesting. The boyfriend proclaimed it delicious with the fatty tuna, but I found the  slightly astringent tang of the leaf overpowered my yellowtail. <br /><br />Next, a tofu-like (but was actually egg) stuffed with minced prawn in a savoury broth. Great texture and wobble. Here, our menus branched off as one of us had chosen the sushi royte. So while I had cold vegetables such as aubergine, pepper, turnip and okra with two pieces of octopus in a bonito jelly, the boyfriend had 3 pieces of nigiri. This was my least favourite dish of the meal. The flavours of the vegetables were very pure and fresh, balancing the octopus well, but there wasn&#39;t a lot to it. <br /><br />We then had a Shabu Shabu; a box each, complete with stock and a fierce tealight to keep it all cooking. Vegetables such as mushrooms, leeks and cabbage were provided as well as some thinly sliced fish and dipping sauces. All good fun, and the ponzu sauce was a favourite. <br /><br />The meal was drawing to a close with just a couple of courses left. A rather plain mushroom rice was jazzed up with all sorts of pickled vegetables and a deeply savoury red miso. Dessert was a highlight; plum seed jelly with seasonal fruits. Light and refreshing. <br /><br />I loved the meal we had here; it&#39;s unlike anything I&#39;ve eaten before, and it was all beautifully presented. The waiting staff were charming and inobtrusive. My only gripe is that they served some (ok, I counted; 3) of the courses while I had popped to the bathroom and so I missed some descriptions. So that&#39;s what that 1 remaining star is all about really. <br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Fri, 26 Sep 2008 22:27:38 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1a52l8x/umu/1r3ni71511220429</guid>
      <dc:creator>hollowlegs</dc:creator>
      <category>japanese</category>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>sushi</category>
      <georss:point>51.510502444974 -0.1453590102878</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Patterson's - Worth it with the offer by hollowlegs</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1093y8t/patterson-s/124lg8</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/124042_9f44ccac.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/hollowlegs_95e95ff7.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/hollowlegs">hollowlegs</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 3.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7499 1308</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.pattersonsrestaurant.com/</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=restaurant'>restaurant</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=excellent food'>excellent food</a></p>We dined here on a 40% off deal through another website. I found the restaurant to be rather lacking in ambience, especially as we were sat at the back in close proximity to a group of loud and very obnoxious pensioners. <br /><br />The food was very flavoursome. However, the lamb I ordered was meant to be lamb 3 ways, one of them being a stuffed saddle of lamb which they replaced with a lamb chop and didn&#39;t tell me about it. Very naughty of them. Unfortunately I only noticed when I thought back to it the next day. <br /><br />The waiting staff were very professional, if a bit cold. <br />We dined here on a 40% off deal through another website. I found the restaurant to be rather lacking in ambience, especially as we were sat at the back in close proximity to a group of loud and very obnoxious pensioners. <br /><br />The food was very flavoursome. However, the lamb I ordered was meant to be lamb 3 ways, one of them being a stuffed saddle of lamb which they replaced with a lamb chop and didn&#39;t tell me about it. Very naughty of them. Unfortunately I only noticed when I thought back to it the next day. <br /><br />The waiting staff were very professional, if a bit cold. <br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Thu, 11 Sep 2008 14:49:25 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1093y8t/patterson-s/124lg8596009993</guid>
      <dc:creator>hollowlegs</dc:creator>
      <category>restaurant</category>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>excellent food</category>
      <georss:point>51.512369 -0.142073</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Artisan - Artisan re-opens after soft refurbishment Sept 08 by westbury</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1f9346d/artisan/109kl7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/159565_3ea405b2.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/img/empty_user.gif" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/westbury">westbury</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 5.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7629 7755</p><p><b>Website:</b> http://www.westburymayfair.com/artisan.html</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=posh'>posh</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=business'>business</a></p>Located within The Westbury Hotel on Bond Street, Artisan is the latest creation of designer Alex Kravetz, whose pervious projects include: Badrutt&#0226;&#0172;"s Palace Hotel, St Moritz and Associated Newspapers HQ. Crystal chandeliers, parquet flooring, rich oaks and champagne coloured walls create the perfect hue for this art deco restaurant. <br /> <br />The concept of the Artisan restaurant is based on &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;experience&#0226;&#0172;". The meaning of artisan is &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;made from the hand&#0226;&#0172;" with this in mind, the menu, service and ambience has been designed around these words; Artisan and Experience.<br /><br />The menu is created by Roux Scholar Andrew Jones. With Michelin star experience and instruction from Michel Bras, one of the great talents of world cooking, The Artisan restaurant showcases Jones&#0226;&#0172;" innovative cuisine in visually warm and quietly sensual surroundings. <br /><br />On the plate, Andrew&#0226;&#0172;"s ingredients complement each other while maintaining their own identity. Visually, the first impression is that the dishes are highly complex, but on closer inspection the fabric of the dish is there to see and therefore understand. There is a transparency to Andrew&#0226;&#0172;"s work, which comes from his understandable confidence. <br /><br />Andrew Jones delivers a signature menu, focusing on the best possible ingredients and his unique style of cooking. Start with roasted Dorset diver scallops, garnished with butternut squash and rosehip jelly. Mains include, roast saddle of West Devonshire lamb garnished with plum tomato confied in Vallee des Baux olive oil stuffed with aubergine and basil, balsamic sorrel and basil jus. Finish with deserts such as Heart of Guanaja 80% chocolate fondant with butternut squash and bourbon vanilla ice cream.<br /><br />The Artisan&#0226;&#0172;"s extensive wine list is a veritable catalogue of the new and old worlds, which will delight any oenophile. Our experienced in-house Sommelier is available to advise on the perfect match for each particular dish. <br /><br />Artisan at The Westbury hosts an elegant private dining room The Regency, adjacent to the restaurant. Here you can experience the height of Mayfair dining within a sumptuous and warm environment. <br />Located within The Westbury Hotel on Bond Street, Artisan is the latest creation of designer Alex Kravetz, whose pervious projects include: Badrutt&#0226;&#0172;"s Palace Hotel, St Moritz and Associated Newspapers HQ. Crystal chandeliers, parquet flooring, rich oaks and champagne coloured walls create the perfect hue for this art deco restaurant. <br /> <br />The concept of the Artisan restaurant is based on &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;experience&#0226;&#0172;". The meaning of artisan is &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;made from the hand&#0226;&#0172;" with this in mind, the menu, service and ambience has been designed around these words; Artisan and Experience.<br /><br />The menu is created by Roux Scholar Andrew Jones. With Michelin star experience and instruction from Michel Bras, one of the great talents of world cooking, The Artisan restaurant showcases Jones&#0226;&#0172;" innovative cuisine in visually warm and quietly sensual surroundings. <br /><br />On the plate, Andrew&#0226;&#0172;"s ingredients complement each other while maintaining their own identity. Visually, the first impression is that the dishes are highly complex, but on closer inspection the fabric of the dish is there to see and therefore understand. There is a transparency to Andrew&#0226;&#0172;"s work, which comes from his understandable confidence. <br /><br />Andrew Jones delivers a signature menu, focusing on the best possible ingredients and his unique style of cooking. Start with roasted Dorset diver scallops, garnished with butternut squash and rosehip jelly. Mains include, roast saddle of West Devonshire lamb garnished with plum tomato confied in Vallee des Baux olive oil stuffed with aubergine and basil, balsamic sorrel and basil jus. Finish with deserts such as Heart of Guanaja 80% chocolate fondant with butternut squash and bourbon vanilla ice cream.<br /><br />The Artisan&#0226;&#0172;"s extensive wine list is a veritable catalogue of the new and old worlds, which will delight any oenophile. Our experienced in-house Sommelier is available to advise on the perfect match for each particular dish. <br /><br />Artisan at The Westbury hosts an elegant private dining room The Regency, adjacent to the restaurant. Here you can experience the height of Mayfair dining within a sumptuous and warm environment. <br />]]></description>
      <pubDate>Tue, 09 Sep 2008 12:50:28 +0000</pubDate>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">/review/uk/london/restaurant/1f9346d/artisan/109kl71675981481</guid>
      <dc:creator>westbury</dc:creator>
      <category>expensive</category>
      <category>posh</category>
      <category>business</category>
      <georss:point>51.511378349707 -0.14388225859356</georss:point>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>The Square - The Square - 25 August 2008 by Food_Snob</title>
      <link>http://trustedplaces.com/review/uk/london/restaurant/1l5117g/the-square/1k6jx7</link>
      <description><![CDATA[<img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/placepics/1l5117g_ebddac7e.140.jpg" /><img src="http://trustedplaces.com/uploads/userpics/Food_Snob_fa684dec.120.jpg" /><br /><b>Review by <a href="http://trustedplaces.com/user/Food_Snob">Food_Snob</a></b><br /><br /><b>Rating:</b> 4.00<p><b>Phone:</b> 020 7495 7100</p><p><b>Tags:</b> <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=french'>french</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=expensive'>expensive</a>, <a href='http://trustedplaces.com/places/search?tags=business'>business</a></p>Illustrated Critique:<br /><br />http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/08/25/the-square-london/<br /><br />Text-only Critique:<br /><br />It is Bank Holiday Monday, but W and I forgot that. We had a couple of ideas where we she wanted to dine, but they were all closed. Then inspiration hit - The Square. It has been on my list for some time and I had already made a couple of abortive reservations over the last few months, never managing to actually enjoy a meal there. I was excited.<br /><br />A welcoming smile greeted us at the front door and our coats and bags were taken swift stewardship of before we were escorted over the black-and-white mosaic floor, past the wooden bar, fresh bouquets of orchids and pussy willows and large comfy couches, into the surprisingly large, very aptly square-shapen main dining area.<br /><br />It is a modern space, quite stylish and cool, but discrete and sophisticated too. The back wall is burgundy and features three full length mirrors; the opposite wall faces onto the street outside, but large polished glass grills in front of each window limit outsiders view in. Both vellum-coloured flanks of the room are decorated with the most singular, arresting aspect of the d&#0195;&#0169;cor: large, striking modern works of art in assertive colours by English artist Deborah Lanyon that enables The Square, if emptied, to easily impersonate a gallery. The room itself is sparsely filled with well-spaced and well-sized alternating square and circle tables, decked in pristine white starched tablecloths and taupe grey under-cloths and teamed with woollen dark russet and dark chestnut terracotta-patterned chairs. Tables are adorned with charger plates bearing Kandinsky-style Russian prints, originally from Marco Pierre White&#0226;&#0172;"s Hyde Park Hotel; sleek slim vases of blossoming pink rosebuds; and beautiful Christofle silverware. The colour theme is dominated by fine vanillas and creams contrasted against rich, warm browns: an immaculate white ceiling and light walls are framed by a dark wood, herringbone-parquet floor. Lighting, from recessed spotlights, randomly dotted lamps and almost-Oriental mini pendant lanterns, is quite bright. The minimalist almost functional interior educes an elegant and refined atmosphere, typified by the smart black formal attire of the staff.<br /><br />The first question I asked upon our prompt receipt of the menus was whether Chef Howard was cooking tonight. He was not. Just my luck - the chef who is never away from his stove, happens to be away tonight. It turns out another chef is in charge and though his name eludes me, I know it is not Robert Weston, Howard&#0226;&#0172;"s number two. So, a mysterious number three is at the helm? Sounds ominous, but I am more disappointed at the current AA Chef&#0226;&#0172;"s Chef of the Year&#0226;&#0172;"s absence than at having monsieur trois cooking my dinner.<br /><br />You see, Philip Howard, a softly spoken, self-effacing man who eschews the media spotlight in favour of actually running his kitchen and helping nurture young culinary talent, is acknowledged as one of the country&#0226;&#0172;"s best cooks - some achievement considering he is an Englishman cooking French cuisine and thus &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;competing&#0226;&#0172;" against French chefs in their own jardin gastronomique.<br /><br />An original path to Michelin stardom makes Howard&#0226;&#0172;"s story an engrossing one. First discovering cookery whilst studying microbiology at Kent University, upon graduating he almost went into pharmaceuticals, but decided instead to spend a year travelling, which culminated in a summer spent cooking in the Dordogne. Returning to London, he apprenticed with Roux Restaurants, catering in the City, but six months making sandwiches left him doubting his choices until an opportune move into directors&#0226;&#0172;" dining. Here he relished the leadership, fast pace and fast learning but, ambitious by nature, nine months later, he was ready to move on. So one night, after dinner at Harvey&#0226;&#0172;"s (Marco Pierre White&#0226;&#0172;"s first fine dining restaurant), having asked to meet Marco vis-&#0195;&#0160;-vis, Howard asked for a job. He got one. Aged 23, he became Harvey&#0226;&#0172;"s newest chef de partie. Only nine months more and he had verbally agreed to become MPW&#0226;&#0172;"s sous chef, when an unforgivable service cost Howard his job on the spot. Undeterred, he joined another great British chef of the time, Simon Hopkinson at Bibenbdum, spending a year under him. During this time, he and Marco made up and when MPW&#0226;&#0172;"s business partner, Nigel Platts-Martin, decided to open a new restaurant, he put Howard&#0226;&#0172;"s name forward for head chef. Thus, in 1991, with no formal training, cooking professionally for only three years and never having even been a sous chef, Howard had his own restaurant.<br /><br />Though inexperienced, he was certainly not unknowledgeable: as a scientist, he understood the chemical make-up of food; his Dordogne experience had fostered a love for the hearty, lavish cuisine of south-west France; MPW taught him to appreciate elegant, sophisticated French cooking; whilst under Hopkinson, he learnt to impress with flavour and simplicity, instead of simply presentation. It took him just three years to win a Michelin star and this was with an &#0226;&#0172;Sout of control&#0226;&#0172; kitchen and menus featuring a &#0226;&#0172;Sbizarre mismatch of things, many which [he&#39;d] never cooked before&#0226;&#0172;; he would decide each morning what to cook for dinner that evening. By 1998, finally finding his rhythm, he was awarded a second star and in 2001 moved The Square to its larger, current residence, where this story unfolds.<br /><br />Sophia, our serveuse ecossaise, guided us through the menu. And what a beautifully written menu it always is. I am impressed and frustrated; impressed by the delicious dish descriptions Howard constantly composes, but frustrated by how difficult he has made it to order. The food is distinctively modern and seriously French, boasting classical ingredients and combinations of flavour and employing techniques he has refined over time to fashion his own brand of imaginative, stylish and cultured cuisine bourgeoise. The menu is also markedly seasonal; Howard divides the year into five seasons, making a sincere effort to source the choicest produce, locally whenever possible. Eventually, with Sophia&#0226;&#0172;"s advice on board and her making more than one trip to the kitchen to enquire whether some of our little demands could be tolerated, we were decided. Starters are the strongest part of the menu (Howard himself confesses), but being our first time here, we immediately plumped for the two signature entr&#0195;&#0169;es, followed by three mains and two desserts.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 1: Parmesan Sabl&#0195;&#0169;; Cornetto of Foie Gras; Beetroot Flag Stuffed with Goat&#0226;&#0172;"s Cheese; Dill & Smoked Salmon Roulade; Herb Risotto Beignet; and Anchovy Frazzle. A custom-made wooden block was presented loaded with an assortment of five different dainties. First off was a cheesy, creamy, crumbly parmesan sabl&#0195;&#0169;; then a crisp cornet containing a rich foie gras mousse. Next, an amusing soft beet &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;flag&#0226;&#0172;" held strong goat&#0226;&#0172;"s cheese balanced with balsamic vinegar. A smooth, fresh roll of smoky salmon and almost-aniseed-flavoured dill followed. A warm, crunchy rice ball fritter was greaseless and molten in the middle and a crisp straw, mildly infused with anchovy, completed the canap&#0195;&#0169;s.<br /><br />Amuse Bouche 2: Sweet Corn Bavarois with Duck Jelly Consomm&#0195;&#0169;. A second amuse of thick, creamed sweet corn, topped with an intense duck jelly, light tarragon foam and girolle cr&#0195;&#0168;me and decorated with a fine pastry tuile, succeeded the first. The idea of matching the sugary corn, rich duck, bittersweet herb and earthy mushroom was decent, but the individual flavours were not clear and distinct enough, making this rather forgettable.<br /><br />Les Pains: French Baguette; Walnut-Raisin; and Brown Bread. The three varieties offered were each beautifully baked and delightfully detailed. The baguette was firm and very crunchy with nicely toasted tips. The nutty-fruit bread was even better with a good crust, moist middle and excellent, not too sweet taste. I also enjoyed the dense, wholesome brown. Most appealingly, throughout dinner the bread was consistently served warm; a simple, but significant touch. Both salted and unsalted butter arrived, intricately moulded, on flat whale-shaped frosted glass tiles.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 1: Lasagne of Cornish Crab with a Cappuccino of Shellfish and Champagne Foam. Alternating layers of circular cuts of crab and pasta came immersed in a thick, basil-infused langoustine and scallop mousseline and surrounded by a foam bath of champagne. The crab was fresh and sweet; the pasta, al dente. A serious, herby bisque-like shellfish sauce lay over the lasagne whilst an ethereally light and refreshing, coral-coloured champagne froth filled the bowl. This was delicate and airy, but buttery-rich and bursting with deep flavours; it was liquid luxury.<br /><br />Entr&#0195;&#0169;e 2: Saut&#0195;&#0169; of Scottish Langoustine Tails with parmesan Gnocchi and an Emulsion of Potato and Truffle. Three totem poles, each constructed with its own lush langoustine showpiece topped with crispy onion ringlets, were set on individual parmesan pasta dumpling plinths doused in a plashet of potato-truffle emulsion; a liberal garnish of girolle pur&#0195;&#0169;e accompanied the shellfish spires. The juicy langoustines tails were firm and bouncy, contrasting nicely with the creamy, soft gnocchi and crunchy onions. The already well-balanced, classic combination of salty-sweet shellfish and earthy mushroom was further enhanced with robust, musty truffle and subtly sweet onion. Another excellent dish.<br /><br />Plat Principal 1: &#0226;&#0172;SBouillabaisse&#0226;&#0172; with Sardine Chantilly. Bouillabaisse is something both W and I find irresistible so, after our starters, we snuck in one order to share between us. Superb servings of a selection of fish - sea bass, gurnard and monkfish - together with a scallop, a squid ink ravioli and spoonful of scampi mousseline sat on a warm pepperade of capsicum with a tuile cracker of anchovy paste. Tableside, a broth of more fish - sea bass, red mullet and John Dory - and aioli was poured over the seafood medley. The thick fillets of fish were tasty and well cooked, bar the slightly overdone sea bass. The scallop was good, pasta correct and anchovy pleasantly powerful. However, the pepperade was much too salty and almost inedible; the sauce was seasoned distinctly with garlic, but struggled to offer anything more; and there was not a trace of one essential bouillabaisse ingredient, saffron, whose spicy sharpness was surely missed. The speech marks within this dish&#0226;&#0172;"s title ought to have been a clue not to expect a &#0226;&#0172;Straditional&#0226;&#0172; version of this classic and later we were told the objective here was to use a simple sauce to showcase quality fish; it showed.<br /><br />Plat Principal 2: Fish of the Day - Roast Fillet of Turbot with Parmesan Gnocchi, Cep Mushroom, Golden Beetroot, Jerusalem Artichoke and Baby Spring Onion. A pleasing piece of roasted turbot, on a bed of parmesan gnocchi, porcini and artichoke slices, small golden beets and their wilted leaves and whole bulbs of baby spring onion, was lightly bathed in a golden yellow beurre blanc bath. The flaky fish, cooked until its pristine white flesh had tanned lovely ochre, had retained all its deliciously mild taste. It was complemented by smooth pasta, crunchy beetroot, spinach-like beet leaves and nutty artichoke. Earthy, creamy ceps, mushroom royalty, matched the meaty, refined turbot. Of special note were the sweet little onions, which dissembled in the mouth delightfully.<br /><br />Plat Principal 3: Breast of Gressingham Duck with a Tarte Fine of Caramelised Endive and Glazed Figs. The perfectly pink duck, resting in a reduction of its own juices, was dished with a warm tarte fine of endive, fig quenelle and orange pur&#0195;&#0169;e. The tender, juicy duck had a good sticky, sweet skin and rich sauce. The short pastry crumbled nicely and countered the bitter, peppery leaves, whilst the opposingly saccharine fig confit and bitter orange balanced agreeably. Textures also played their part with the soft duck, flaky tarte and grainy jam working well together. These bold flavours and beautiful breast of duck were impressive.<br /><br />Pre-dessert: Sweet Tomato & Vanilla. Preceding desserts was a shot glass, filled with a base of vanilla and sweet tomato yoghurt below a thin layer of apple coulis and rounded off with blackcurrant mousse, coupled with a warm sugar beignet. The concentrated fruity berry and apple cut through the thick, homemade sour yoghurt. The fluffy dough nugget was excellent; super light, sweet and handy for dipping into the shot glass.<br /><br />Dessert 1: Warm Roasted Pears with Tiramisu, &#0226;&#0172;&#0220;Dulce de Leche&#0226;&#0172;" Ice Cream and Salted Caramel Nougatine. Warm roast pear halves were dotted around a circular tiramisu sponge and accompanied by a feuille-wrapped cappuccino cr&#0195;&#0168;me, dollop of dulce de leche ice cream and dense dash of coffee jelly. The dish was also sprinkled with biscuit crumbs and splashes of salty caramel nougatine. The tiramisu, though of decent consistency, was rather too full with rum for my liking and the ice cream and caramel forgettable. That said, the pears, soft, sweet and moist, were nice, as was the inclusion of cappuccino and strong coffee. Excepting these little highlights, the flavours were weak, indistinct and disconcerted.<br /><br />Dessert 2: Fondant of Chocolate with Almond Milk Pur&#0195;&#0169;e and Caramelised Almond and Orange Ice Cream. A dark cocoa fondant covered in thick, warm chocolate sauce was served with an almond-orange ice cream sitting upon burnt crumble chips; splurges of almond milk pur&#0195;&#0169;e and a white chocolate tuile adorned the plate. The cake was light and moist with a molten liquid middle, with the chocolate itself delightfully intense and rich, but again, the rest of the dish failed to make an impact.<br /><br />Petit Fours 1: Dairy-free Caramel Truffles and Orangettes. We forwent coffee, but welcomed these after-dinner treats, which took the form of dusty, well-formed truffles filled with mild caramel centres and chewy, chocolate-dipped matchsticks of orange rind; both of which had been made without dairy (probably more as a proof of skill, rather than to improve the taste).<br /><br />Petit Fours 2: Assortment of Jellies - Apple Cider & Vanilla Jelly; Pineapple & Blueberry Jelly; Confit of Grapefruit; Turkish Delight; and Raspberry Summer Roll. In true haute-cuisine mode, the gifts kept coming. A spray of small jelly lollipops in five flavours finished off dinner. These tangy treats included a particularly memorable sweet, subtle grapefruit; sour, creamy Turkish delight; and sugary Swiss roll - although, all tasted fresh, fruity and distinct.<br /><br />Service throughout the meal was good enough to convince me all the FOH problems I recently read about have been successfully resolved. The staff were polite, inquisitive, on the spot when required, but discreet at all other times; we were always accommodated and never rushed. Sophia, in particular, proved able, attentive and charming.<br /><br />Without a doubt, the cooking is considered and there is talent in the kitchen - members of Howard&#0226;&#0172;"s brigade took all the podium places at the last Young Chef Awards - but I cannot help but have mixed feelings. Entr&#0195;&#0169;es were excellent and mains generally good, but desserts disappointed and this gradual diminuendo of enjoyment has no doubt prejudiced my final thoughts against the meal; I am sure that had we finished on a high, having started unimpressively, I would now feel very differently. After all, there were plenty of positive points: produce throughout was first rate, seasonal and fresh; if I ignore the bouillabaisse, technique tonight was faultless; if I also disregard desserts, then the dishes were all well-crafted and satisfying.<br /><br />Therefore, I shall not be writing The Square off just yet. I will return, but with some simple caveats: first, I will have to confirm that Chef Howard will be behind the stove; ansecondly, I will stick to fruity or pastry puddings (I have read somewhere these are more the kitchen&#0226;&#0172;"s forte). After all, in spite of everything, I know that sumptuous, innovative dishes, rich raw materials, serious flavours and precision cooking are all thIllustrated Critique:<br /><br />http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/08/25/the-square-london/<br /><br />Text-only Critique:<br /><br />It is Bank Holiday Monday, but W and I forgot that. We had a couple of ideas where we she wanted to dine, but they were all closed. Then inspiration hit - The Square. It has been on my list for some time and I had already made a couple of abortive reservations over the last few months, never managing to actually enjoy a meal there. I was excited.<br /><br />A welcoming smile greeted us at the front door and our coats and bags were taken swift stewardship of before we were escorted over the black-and-white mosaic floor, past the wooden bar, fresh bouquets of orchids and pussy willows and large comfy couches, into the surprisingly large, very aptly square-shapen main dining area.<br /><br />It is a modern space, quite stylish and cool, but discrete and sophisticated too. The back wall is burgundy and features three full length mirrors; the opposite wall faces onto the street outside, but large polished glass grills in front of each window limit outsiders view in. Both vellum-coloured flanks of the room are decorated with the most singular, arresting aspect of the d&#0195;&#0169;cor: large, striking modern works of art in assertive colours by English artist Deborah Lanyon that enables The Square, if emptied, to easily impersonate a gallery. The room itself is sparsely filled with well-spaced and well-sized alternating square and circle tables, decked in pristine white starched tablecloths and taupe grey under-cloths and teamed with woollen dark russet and dark chestnut terracotta-patterned chairs. Tables are adorned with charger plates bearing Kandinsky-style Russian prints, originally from Marco Pierre White&#0226;&#0172;"s Hyde Park Hotel; sleek slim vases of blossoming pink rosebuds; and beautiful Christofle silverware. The colour theme is dominated by fine vanillas and creams contrasted against rich, warm browns: an immaculate white ceiling and light walls are framed by a dark wood, herringbone-parquet floor. Lighting, from recessed spotlights, randomly dotted lamps and almost-Oriental mini pendant lanterns, is quite bright. The minimalist almost functional interior educes an elegant and refined at