Latest reviews for Restaurants in Mayfair, London, United Kingdom

The Ritz Restaurant - A bit pretentious.....true....but such style by Bowgreave

Bowgreave — Sat, 03 Jan 2009 11:32:50 +0000

Review by Bowgreave

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7493 8181

Website: http://www.theritzhotel.co.uk

Tags: expensive, pretentious, good food

Well it is the Ritz after all so we commoners should expect the doorstaff to give us a careful once over on entry, shouldn't we? Ah, but what a place to wander through with the ornate bars and corridors.....and the dining room is devine dahling.
We had the three course table d'hote menu and could have let them pick for us as everything appealed. Good food, beautifully cooked; so you can forgive the theatrically synchronised removal of the two silver plate covers as the main courses are 'presented' to us. Resisting the nagging temptation to say 'Aye pal, its me dinner' we soaked up a unique experience. Treat yourself!Well it is the Ritz after all so we commoners should expect the doorstaff to give us a careful once over on entry, shouldn't we? Ah, but what a place to wander through with the ornate bars and corridors.....and the dining room is devine dahling.
We had the three course table d'hote menu and could have let them pick for us as everything appealed. Good food, beautifully cooked; so you can forgive the theatrically synchronised removal of the two silver plate covers as the main courses are 'presented' to us. Resisting the nagging temptation to say 'Aye pal, its me dinner' we soaked up a unique experience. Treat yourself!

Chor Bizarre - India's Restaurant - Indi authentic by Adelien

Adelien — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 06:44:52 +0000

Review by Adelien

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7629 9802

Website: http://www.chorbizarre.com

Tags: indian, good value, lively

went to Chor Bizare after reading reviews and undoubtly itâ¬"s one of the best Indian Restaurant in London.went to Chor Bizare after reading reviews and undoubtly itâ¬"s one of the best Indian Restaurant in London.

The Grill Room at the Dorchester - The Place to Celebrate Anything! by Bowgreave

Bowgreave — Wed, 31 Dec 2008 17:52:45 +0000

Review by Bowgreave

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7317 6336

Website: http://www.thedorchester.com/restaurants_bars/grill.html

Tags: british, vegetarian dishes

If you've read the two previous reviews, you probably are running behind schedule, so I'll make this quick; just go.
The slightly longer version is book the pre-7.30 early evening table d'hote menu ( check their website)which is the same as the frequent Toptable offer - 3 courses (which are all genuine and major reductions on their a la carte menu but the same dishes and portions - unlike some spots!)and a glass of Champers thrown in.
The food is great, the staff are helpful and nice, it is unpretentious and it is the only place to celebrate anything worth celebrating.
Okay, so AA Gill (or Automobile Association as his mother prefers) might hate the jock warrior wallpaper but that may well be because said jock warrior bears more than a passing resemblance to a young kilted Gordon Brown. If that puts you off your food then look away but, as far as I'm concerned, they can put pink flock up there. This place is just great.If you've read the two previous reviews, you probably are running behind schedule, so I'll make this quick; just go.
The slightly longer version is book the pre-7.30 early evening table d'hote menu ( check their website)which is the same as the frequent Toptable offer - 3 courses (which are all genuine and major reductions on their a la carte menu but the same dishes and portions - unlike some spots!)and a glass of Champers thrown in.
The food is great, the staff are helpful and nice, it is unpretentious and it is the only place to celebrate anything worth celebrating.
Okay, so AA Gill (or Automobile Association as his mother prefers) might hate the jock warrior wallpaper but that may well be because said jock warrior bears more than a passing resemblance to a young kilted Gordon Brown. If that puts you off your food then look away but, as far as I'm concerned, they can put pink flock up there. This place is just great.

Damask - Pulling Rank by intoxicating

intoxicating — Wed, 24 Dec 2008 10:19:49 +0000

Review by intoxicating

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7499 3464

Website: http://www.athenaeumhotel.com

Tags: romantic, pretentious, expensive

â¬ÜTiny in stature but large in personality, Sally Bulloch could often be seen lunching with Sir Denis Thatcher, Richard Dreyfus or Albert Finney, or enjoying Champagne with Joan Collins, Dionne Warwick or Marti Pellow. MichÃ¦l Douglas once remarked: â¬SKnowing Sally Bulloch is like getting your raincoat caught in a fast-departing roller-coasterâ¬¦â¬â¬"
[Daily Telegraph]

â¬ÜThe AthenÃ¦umâ¬" is a gracious, feminine, family owned five star hotel overlooking Green Park. It has a well-qualified reputation for courting the stars. The Rank Organisation bought it in the 70â¬"s, exploiting links with Tinseltown so successfully that the â¬ÜHollywood Reporterâ¬" noted â¬Üâ¬¦there were more movie stars to be seen in the AthenÃ¦um than the Polo Lounge of the Beverly Hills Hotelâ¬¦â¬" Child actress turned Executive Manager and â¬Sfixerâ¬, Sally Bulloch helped stroke this ranking by recruiting â¬Ürestingâ¬" actors to front of house roles.

It must have been great fun in those glitzy days: glamour, gossip and free flowing bubbles. Five years following Bullochâ¬"s departure, on a crisp December afternoon, my breath condensing, I found a cosy haven rather than an artisteâ¬"s clubbyhole.

In culinary terms, it is the hotelâ¬"s tea ritual that pulls the plaudits, indeed the U.K. Guild awarded it â¬ÜTop London Afternoon Tea â¬Ü08â¬". Rather than indulge in colourful macaroons, I was in the mood for something more substantial that chilly lunchtime, however. Undeterred (maybe even spurred) by MichÃ¦l Winnerâ¬"s review entitled â¬Üthe worst meal of my lifeâ¬", I headed to the restaurant, â¬ÜDamaskâ¬" (formerly â¬ÜBullochâ¬"sâ¬"). A line of tall, tactile banquettes scattered with silk cushions snakes the centre of the room. Tabletops are a kind of dÃ©coupage of real onionskins. Pillars are made of buttons. A kitsch formica cabinet looks like it was salvaged from a car boot sale. Origami flowers are made of newspaper. A couth, gently lit whisky room ajoins, appetisingly equippedâ¬¦

The broadly British menu opens with a well-worn but still amusing Orson Welles quote: â¬ÜMy doctor told me to stop having intimate dinners for four. Unless there are three other people.â¬"

For (as is written) â¬ÜFirst Things Firstâ¬" I enjoyed excavating plentiful, fleshy bivalves from mussel and delicately scented saffron broth. Custard coloured, it tasted like metallic honey. My companionâ¬"s carpaccio of oak smoked venison with cranberry compote and nest of fresh cress had actually been briefly cooked, which rather undoes the description. It was tender, seriously tasty meat, however, and the clementine flavoured cranberry did more than use up leftover ingredients from the Norfolk turkey (manÅuvred around to other diners on a big silver cart).

â¬ÜThe Main Actâ¬": meaty Cod Steak wrapped in Smoked Bacon with Creamed Leeks, Crisp Potatoes and Chive Butter Sauce. I have frequently prepared this â¬ÜActâ¬" at home, applying an almost indecent amount of versatile vermouth, Noilly Prat to the sauce. This version was certainly no worse than mine: thick, crispy bacon insulating moist fish with almost game chips and lovely, comforting leek barks. I mopped the simple sauce with excellent warm bread.

The Spiced CrÃ¨me Caramel with Cider Stewed Plums was (as advertised) â¬ÜDelectably Deliciousâ¬". Two sweet islands swum in a rich, soothing alcoholic sauce, separated by a dark sprig of mint. Homemade clotted cream ice cream with white and dark chocolate straws, was grand and voluptuous.

A glass of sleek, five puttonyos Tokaji followed. This luscious kumquat and caramel scented elixir came from the legendary Oremus vineyard (revitalised 15 years ago by the minds behind Ribera del Duero, 'Vega Sicilia'). Glycerous, mouth-watering, and made with a certain lightness of touch.

At Â£25.50, three courses cost less then adopting an otter (and certainly provided more pleasure). This included fresh mint tea, poured from stout silverware into elegant bone china, and filo mince pies. If I must be critical, the latter were a little pathetic: a duo of crusty twee smudges. We also gleaned flutes of reasonable Champagne by booking through London-Eating. Abnormally, no automatic service charge was mounted.

Despite a lavish refurbishment, it feels like the luminaries checked out of The AthenÃ¦um long ago, drawn like fireflies to the marble splendour the grand cafÃ© at 160 Piccadilly (with its reassuring â¬Üno photographsâ¬" policy). Nonetheless, Sally Bullochâ¬"s presence is still palpable: her obituary is framed in polished silver in reception.

Maybe the new year will bring another stage manager to â¬Ücatch another raincoatâ¬"?â¬ÜTiny in stature but large in personality, Sally Bulloch could often be seen lunching with Sir Denis Thatcher, Richard Dreyfus or Albert Finney, or enjoying Champagne with Joan Collins, Dionne Warwick or Marti Pellow. MichÃ¦l Douglas once remarked: â¬SKnowing Sally Bulloch is like getting your raincoat caught in a fast-departing roller-coasterâ¬¦â¬â¬"
[Daily Telegraph]

â¬ÜThe AthenÃ¦umâ¬" is a gracious, feminine, family owned five star hotel overlooking Green Park. It has a well-qualified reputation for courting the stars. The Rank Organisation bought it in the 70â¬"s, exploiting links with Tinseltown so successfully that the â¬ÜHollywood Reporterâ¬" noted â¬Üâ¬¦there were more movie stars to be seen in the AthenÃ¦um than the Polo Lounge of the Beverly Hills Hotelâ¬¦â¬" Child actress turned Executive Manager and â¬Sfixerâ¬, Sally Bulloch helped stroke this ranking by recruiting â¬Ürestingâ¬" actors to front of house roles.

It must have been great fun in those glitzy days: glamour, gossip and free flowing bubbles. Five years following Bullochâ¬"s departure, on a crisp December afternoon, my breath condensing, I found a cosy haven rather than an artisteâ¬"s clubbyhole.

In culinary terms, it is the hotelâ¬"s tea ritual that pulls the plaudits, indeed the U.K. Guild awarded it â¬ÜTop London Afternoon Tea â¬Ü08â¬". Rather than indulge in colourful macaroons, I was in the mood for something more substantial that chilly lunchtime, however. Undeterred (maybe even spurred) by MichÃ¦l Winnerâ¬"s review entitled â¬Üthe worst meal of my lifeâ¬", I headed to the restaurant, â¬ÜDamaskâ¬" (formerly â¬ÜBullochâ¬"sâ¬"). A line of tall, tactile banquettes scattered with silk cushions snakes the centre of the room. Tabletops are a kind of dÃ©coupage of real onionskins. Pillars are made of buttons. A kitsch formica cabinet looks like it was salvaged from a car boot sale. Origami flowers are made of newspaper. A couth, gently lit whisky room ajoins, appetisingly equippedâ¬¦

The broadly British menu opens with a well-worn but still amusing Orson Welles quote: â¬ÜMy doctor told me to stop having intimate dinners for four. Unless there are three other people.â¬"

For (as is written) â¬ÜFirst Things Firstâ¬" I enjoyed excavating plentiful, fleshy bivalves from mussel and delicately scented saffron broth. Custard coloured, it tasted like metallic honey. My companionâ¬"s carpaccio of oak smoked venison with cranberry compote and nest of fresh cress had actually been briefly cooked, which rather undoes the description. It was tender, seriously tasty meat, however, and the clementine flavoured cranberry did more than use up leftover ingredients from the Norfolk turkey (manÅuvred around to other diners on a big silver cart).

â¬ÜThe Main Actâ¬": meaty Cod Steak wrapped in Smoked Bacon with Creamed Leeks, Crisp Potatoes and Chive Butter Sauce. I have frequently prepared this â¬ÜActâ¬" at home, applying an almost indecent amount of versatile vermouth, Noilly Prat to the sauce. This version was certainly no worse than mine: thick, crispy bacon insulating moist fish with almost game chips and lovely, comforting leek barks. I mopped the simple sauce with excellent warm bread.

The Spiced CrÃ¨me Caramel with Cider Stewed Plums was (as advertised) â¬ÜDelectably Deliciousâ¬". Two sweet islands swum in a rich, soothing alcoholic sauce, separated by a dark sprig of mint. Homemade clotted cream ice cream with white and dark chocolate straws, was grand and voluptuous.

A glass of sleek, five puttonyos Tokaji followed. This luscious kumquat and caramel scented elixir came from the legendary Oremus vineyard (revitalised 15 years ago by the minds behind Ribera del Duero, 'Vega Sicilia'). Glycerous, mouth-watering, and made with a certain lightness of touch.

At Â£25.50, three courses cost less then adopting an otter (and certainly provided more pleasure). This included fresh mint tea, poured from stout silverware into elegant bone china, and filo mince pies. If I must be critical, the latter were a little pathetic: a duo of crusty twee smudges. We also gleaned flutes of reasonable Champagne by booking through London-Eating. Abnormally, no automatic service charge was mounted.

Despite a lavish refurbishment, it feels like the luminaries checked out of The AthenÃ¦um long ago, drawn like fireflies to the marble splendour of the grand cafÃ© at 160 Piccadilly (with its reassuring â¬Üno photographsâ¬" policy). Nonetheless, Sally Bullochâ¬"s presence is still palpable: her obituary is framed in polished silver in reception.

Maybe the new year will bring another stage manager to â¬Ücatch another raincoatâ¬"?

Sakura - they don't want customers by ginsoc

ginsoc — Mon, 22 Dec 2008 00:04:05 +0000

Review by ginsoc

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7629 2961

Tags: japanese, crowded, expensive

If only I can give them ZERO star.

Most disgusting experience. Their service is getting worse and worse. 3 of us placed our sushi orders with our hot food orders at the same time. Yet we waited for 45 mins (at least) for our hot food. When we asked about our missing hot food, the waitresses and waiters just stared blank at us, then formed a group standing near us, and talked, laughed, pointed & stared at us. When we asked for the manager, the girl took our order (an hour ago) replied there is no manager angrily. Then we pointed at the middle aged slim man in the suit standing by the cashier. She said he is not the manager, we said we wanted to speak to him anyway. Meanwhile no one has gone into the kitchen to check the whereabout of our food. Slim man came over & confirmed that he wasn't the manager, but the owner. And he made it really clear that he wasn't interested in what we had to say, that we waited by now over an hour for our food, (they weren't busy). Almost as if we were trouble maker, under appreicating whatever it was that they were offering us!! He walked off with the world most faked "sorry".

Food came at the end, and was good although I had my suspicious whether there was added on ingrediant....

We have always adored Japanses food & we have been there a few time before. Sadly each time all of them get worse and worse. There aren't many Japanese restaurants open on Sundays, but we'd rather do without than go back there to be insulted.

They must be doing ok at the credit cruch time that they are actually trying their upmost best to disgust and get rid of customers.

BTW, while we were waiting, I have observed the same rudeness were applied to other customers, mostly non-Japaneses.

Chinese waiters in China town have a reputation, but really, they are just lacking smiles & chit-chats, at least they listen & bring food on time.

Sakura beats that reputation, they are truely 100% rude. Ruins all good Japanese reputations.If only I can give them ZERO star.

Most disgusting experience. Their service is getting worse and worse. 3 of us placed our sushi orders with our hot food orders at the same time. Yet we waited for 45 mins (at least) for our hot food. When we asked about our missing hot food, the waitresses and waiters just stared blank at us, then formed a group standing near us, and talked, laughed, pointed & stared at us. When we asked for the manager, the girl took our order (an hour ago) replied there is no manager angrily. Then we pointed at the middle aged slim man in the suit standing by the cashier. She said he is not the manager, we said we wanted to speak to him anyway. Meanwhile no one has gone into the kitchen to check the whereabout of our food. Slim man came over & confirmed that he wasn't the manager, but the owner. And he made it really clear that he wasn't interested in what we had to say, that we waited by now over an hour for our food, (they weren't busy). Almost as if we were trouble maker, under appreicating whatever it was that they were offering us!! He walked off with the world most faked "sorry".

Food came at the end, and was good although I had my suspicious whether there was added on ingrediant....

We have always adored Japanses food & we have been there a few time before. Sadly each time all of them get worse and worse. There aren't many Japanese restaurants open on Sundays, but we'd rather do without than go back there to be insulted.

They must be doing ok at the credit cruch time that they are actually trying their upmost best to disgust and get rid of customers.

BTW, while we were waiting, I have observed the same rudeness were applied to other customers, mostly non-Japaneses.

Chinese waiters in China town have a reputation, but really, they are just lacking smiles & chit-chats, at least they listen & bring food on time.

Sakura beats that reputation, they are truely 100% rude. Ruins all good Japanese reputations.

Galvin at Windows - Awesome views by LukeG

LukeG — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 13:30:19 +0000

Review by LukeG

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7208 4021

Website: http://www.galvinatwindows.com/

Tags: french, romantic, expensive

Fabulous Mahnattan feel after dark, breathtaking views in all directions, especially towards the City.
The service is excellent, the place is open late and has a reasonably good restaurant next door.
They play cool house music and the crowd is chic. Not sure if it's busy every night though.Fabulous Mahnattan feel after dark, breathtaking views in all directions, especially towards the City.
The service is excellent, the place is open late and has a reasonably good restaurant next door.
They play cool house music and the crowd is chic. Not sure if it's busy every night though.

The Wolseley - Oooh I say by stantoncarlisle

stantoncarlisle — Tue, 16 Dec 2008 14:54:03 +0000

Review by stantoncarlisle

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7499 6996

Website: http://www.thewolseley.com/

Tags: lively, expensive, good value

Nearer Green Park station than Piccadilly and just a few doors up from the Savoy. Used to be a car showroom or something like that. This place is huge with alot of the trappings of elegance and romance. Wrought-metal spiral staircases sliding up onto another floor, drapes, wall hangings, and a hint of mystery. The mystery comes from the size, not just the decor - there's too much for your peripheral vision to take in and the eclectic mix of folk make it perfect for people watching. Food here is variable. Tumbling in at just under a tenner,the special Hot chocolate with brandy topped with thick-thick cream and powdered chocolate is pretty fine, the cheese on toast nifty - I'm coming back for the cucumber sandwiches. Food is secondary. The decor provides a good backdrop for peeping at the urban menagerie at play.Nearer Green Park station than Piccadilly and just a few doors up from the Savoy. Used to be a car showroom or something like that. This place is huge with alot of the trappings of elegance and romance. Wrought-metal spiral staircases sliding up onto another floor, drapes, wall hangings, and a hint of mystery. The mystery comes from the size, not just the decor - there's too much for your peripheral vision to take in and the eclectic mix of folk make it perfect for people watching. Food here is variable. Tumbling in at just under a tenner,the special Hot chocolate with brandy topped with thick-thick cream and powdered chocolate is pretty fine, the cheese on toast nifty - I'm coming back for the cucumber sandwiches. Food is secondary. The decor provides a good backdrop for peeping at the urban menagerie at play.

Hibiscus - Beyond Good by bellaphon

bellaphon — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 21:39:40 +0000

Review by bellaphon

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7629 2999

Website: http://www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk/

Tags: french, expensive, good value

There were three very distinct reasons why my dining companion (DC) and I stood out from the rest of the other diners in the packed out room at lunch today. Firstly we werenâ¬"t wearing suits, secondly we were probably the youngest diners in the room (now thatâ¬"s saying something!) and lastly we were also the only table not to have ordered any alcohol as we were both teatotallers (every restaurateursâ¬" nightmare).

Without further delay I wish to declare that I had one of the best meals this year at Hibiscus, and to think it was only the set lunch that we had. I was pretty sure that every table in the dining room opted for the same deal as well, so weâ¬"re all in inspired company. The ambience was gratifyingly classy but without the stuffiness, one neednâ¬"t whisper to each other nor feel severely awkward. The service was exemplary and an absolute masterclass in front of room affairs run by the gafferâ¬"s wife. Usual quibble, although minor, included the usual incomprehensible Anglais spoken by the waiters.

My starter of Terrine of Welsh Mutton and Foie Gras was quite simply spectacular, the mutton was packed full of flavour and melt in the mouth. DCâ¬"s winter offering of swede veloutÃ© was deemed excellent. My fantastic mains of veal cottage pie wasnâ¬"t your everyday generic type but a posher bespoke version and in more ways than one a concoction worthy of bettering your mumâ¬"s version. DCâ¬"s Cornish Pollock was sublime and for a Monday dish, the fish tasted super fresh. The superiority of the starters and mains meant they were difficult acts to follow, but thankfully the puddings we had passed with flying colours and proved their equal to the other two courses. My Iced Date Parfait with Shortbread was inspiring and a memorable, and the companionâ¬"s Sweet Potato Tart was judged to be faultless and a perfect end to his own experience.

This set lunch thingy, a testament to M. Bosi, is also an absolutely brilliant ploy to ensure that we all come back for more. I can only imagine his Ã la carte or tasting menu as nothing short of profoundly enlightening. Hibiscus is at the very least 2 stars material or maybe even three in the not too long future. We Londoners; weâ¬"re indeed a worthy and lucky bunch.

NB Table 6, perfect for couples and people watching.
There were three very distinct reasons why my dining companion (DC) and I stood out from the rest of the other diners in the packed out room at lunch today. Firstly we werenâ¬"t wearing suits, secondly we were probably the youngest diners in the room (now thatâ¬"s saying something!) and lastly we were also the only table not to have ordered any alcohol as we were both teatotallers (every restaurateursâ¬" nightmare).

Without further delay I wish to declare that I had one of the best meals this year at Hibiscus, and to think it was only the set lunch that we had. I was pretty sure that every table in the dining room opted for the same deal as well, so weâ¬"re all in inspired company. The ambience was gratifyingly classy but without the stuffiness, one neednâ¬"t whisper to each other nor feel severely awkward. The service was exemplary and an absolute masterclass in front of room affairs run by the gafferâ¬"s wife. Usual quibble, although minor, included the usual incomprehensible Anglais spoken by the waiters.

My starter of Terrine of Welsh Mutton and Foie Gras was quite simply spectacular, the mutton was packed full of flavour and melt in the mouth. DCâ¬"s winter offering of swede veloutÃ© was deemed excellent. My fantastic mains of veal cottage pie wasnâ¬"t your everyday generic type but a posher bespoke version and in more ways than one a concoction worthy of bettering your mumâ¬"s version. DCâ¬"s Cornish Pollock was sublime and for a Monday dish, the fish tasted super fresh. The superiority of the starters and mains meant they were difficult acts to follow, but thankfully the puddings we had passed with flying colours and proved their equal to the other two courses. My Iced Date Parfait with Shortbread was inspiring and a memorable, and the companionâ¬"s Sweet Potato Tart was judged to be faultless and a perfect end to his own experience.

This set lunch thingy, a testament to M. Bosi, is also an absolutely brilliant ploy to ensure that we all come back for more. I can only imagine his Ã la carte or tasting menu as nothing short of profoundly enlightening. Hibiscus is at the very least 2 stars material or maybe even three in the not too long future. We Londoners; weâ¬"re indeed a worthy and lucky bunch.

NB Table 6, perfect for couples and people watching.

Murano - Met our expectations. by mange

mange — Fri, 05 Dec 2008 02:42:21 +0000

Review by mange

Rating: 4.00

Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/murano

Tags: italian, expensive, romantic

Nice room and very genial staff, we were more than adequately looked after. Portion sizes were generous enough that I couldn't finish my meal, and there were plenty of gratis amuse bouches, sorbets, and petit fours. Between Murano and the Boxwood Cafe, I'd recommend Boxwood a little more just for the room and atmosphere; but despite the cost, they both offer good value for money, because you do get an awfully nice evening!Nice room and very genial staff, we were more than adequately looked after. Portion sizes were generous enough that I couldn't finish my meal, and there were plenty of gratis amuse bouches, sorbets, and petit fours. Between Murano and the Boxwood Cafe, I'd recommend Boxwood a little more just for the room and atmosphere; but despite the cost, they both offer good value for money, because you do get an awfully nice evening!

Sartoria - Good italian food - ambience? by Guy_Hutch

Guy_Hutch — Tue, 25 Nov 2008 10:42:05 +0000

Review by Guy_Hutch

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7534 7000

Website: www.sartoriabar.co.uk

Tags: italian, takeaway, cocktails

Recently came here on a top-table fixed price deal.
The restaurant looks very smart but is a little tucked away a bit off the bright lights of Regent Street.
The menu is excellent and the kitchen's execution is superb. In terms of value for money you couldn't be dissapointed.
However the restaurant was very quiet on the Saturday night we went and with the large open dining room the atmosphere was not as welcoming at is should have been.
The aircon was a bit OTT too - and when we highlighted it the staff didn't really seem to believe there was much they could do to ease the chill. Which didn't make much sense as it was snowing outside.
Great food, good value on fixed price menu but so many details to work on otherwise.Recently came here on a top-table fixed price deal.
The restaurant looks very smart but is a little tucked away a bit off the bright lights of Regent Street.
The menu is excellent and the kitchen's execution is superb. In terms of value for money you couldn't be dissapointed.
However the restaurant was very quiet on the Saturday night we went and with the large open dining room the atmosphere was not as welcoming at is should have been.
The aircon was a bit OTT too - and when we highlighted it the staff didn't really seem to believe there was much they could do to ease the chill. Which didn't make much sense as it was snowing outside.
Great food, good value on fixed price menu but so many details to work on otherwise.

Flash - Restaurant in a Box by intoxicating

intoxicating — Sun, 23 Nov 2008 15:11:37 +0000

Review by intoxicating

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 8880 6111

Website: http://www.bookflashnow.com/

Tags: american, crowded, lively

'The art of dining well is no slight art, the pleasure no slight pleasure...'
[Michel Eyquem de Montaigne, C.16]

THIS REVIEW is about a dining room called â¬ÜFlashâ¬", so please allow me to purge the clichÃ©s within the first paragraph. â¬SFlash in the pan, Flash fried, Flashy, you need to be flush at Flash, Flash light, gone in a Flashâ¬¦â¬ (etc. etc.) Suffice to say that all evidence of this rather couth restaurantâ¬"s 80 day existence will have been removed (or auctioned off) by February next year. It is part of the Royal Academyâ¬"s â¬ÜG.S.K.â¬" (Glaxo SmithKline) exhibition, which explores â¬Üart, performance, experimental theatreâ¬" and â¬Üan apocalyptic visionâ¬". Entering from Burlington Gardens, I was greeted by a soundtrack from the latter category: intensely unappetising, pitiful sobbingâ¬¦

Normally, I prefer to give a restaurant a little time to set into its stride rather than turn-up at the very first sitting, poised to poison it in print. I know that the Evening Standardâ¬"s Fay Maschler famously observed that if a venue is already charging full prices, they should expect little mercy. But I believe that the business of establishing something as intricate as a restaurant requires a little empathy from professional eaters. At least initially. But seeing that Flash shines for such a short season â¬ and because I was excited about the concept â¬ I ventured to the room within a room on opening night. My enthusiasm was only mildly dampened by a telephone call beforehand, which advised that the extraction system was as unhappy as the weeper in the foyer. There would be no grills tonight, although a half-price discount would be applied. This was later be annotated as â¬ÜPractice makes perfectâ¬" on the bill.

At least one loud stomach has already assessed a terminal gut reaction, describing Flash as pointless â¬ â¬Üit serves no purposeâ¬". In my opinion there is raison dâ¬"Ãªtre and integrity to this space, and that is pleasure by design. The large, but welcoming room is a collage of creative commissions. 191 plywood art storage crates form the structure. These are inlaid to resemble a trellis â¬ a reference to the original gardens once laid out where the site now stands. Behind this, various animals lurk in the â¬Üundergrowthâ¬". An opalescent painting of parrot pairs hangs above. The centrepiece of the room is a bold black, oversized snowflake of a chandellier, known as the â¬Üdeath starâ¬" by its designer. â¬ÜBrutal but beautifulâ¬", it is made of Swarovski crystal. China is supplied by Wedgewood, although the childlike dog, cat, bear and other animal heads that grace the crockery must be amongst the most avant-garde of designs in the firms 250 year history.

The menu itself is made of various layers of card lasered into a geometric pattern. We began with mauve Flash Ritaâ¬"s, ordered via a clued-up waitresses portable Play Station. From an unseen bar, gently American oak matured tequila was flawlessly blended with thick winterberry purÃ©e and a little cranberry juice. A small, cantaloupe coloured flower floated on top like a water lily.

It could be argued that a venue like Flash is more about concept and surroundings than anything culinary. The menu, which is stirred into life by Californian influences, hallowed the season. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with braised rabbit leg was languid: earthy, kind and comforting. The leg did not materialise, however: just a little knoll of lean meat, pulled from the bone, orbited by a truffle oil ring of Saturn. A pandaâ¬"s face emerged from the bowl's floor during the final excavations. My Ham Hock and Smoked Eel Terrine with Watercress Sauce was flawless. The moistly fatty, slightly sweet pink hock combined well with the discreetly smoked eel, jostled by the heady, inimitable cress. Incidentally, as a student, I remember trying to roast a hock in a Baby Belling, to little practical avail...Duck Confit with Spinach, Wild Mushrooms and Mustard Sauce was crisp and substantial and â¬ forgivably - mildly ugly. The slug-soft mushrooms were notably over-salted, however, a small opening night clanger with the sodium chloride. My Roast Cod with Baby Fennel, Sauce Vierge, Cherry Tomatoes and Fennel Cress (whatever that may be) was a joy. Soft white flesh with a crisp top urged into life by the nervy dressing. A side order of British racing green, lightly leathery curly kale was glossily bathed in blood orange juice.

From a short and snappy, interesting list, a glass of Western Australian Chardonnay (Cape Mentelle â¬"05) tidied up my palate: incisive lime, fig and flint within an unobtrusive oak picture-frame. Lemon trifle, almond cake and lemon granite was a little too spirited in the pith and acid department. Fig, raspberry, mascarpone custard, basil and praline pastry looked messy too (the coulis was thickly applied like squirted ketchup). The soft, sugary sandwich was given a hint of dynamism however thanks to the tangy baby basil leaves weaved within.

Keenly caffeinated Espresso Martinis were presented with floating beans arranged in the shape of the Mercedes star.

Flash is the second â¬Üpop-upâ¬" restaurant that the trio of minds behind (Pablo Flack, David Waddington and Tom Collins) have launched. Their first, â¬ÜReindeerâ¬", occurred two years ago at a â¬Ügrubbyâ¬", almost secret location. That three week rather than three month operation was to all accounts (most of them nostalgic) such a 'wildly exciting' success that neither love, money nor celebrity could secure a reservation once the diary was full.

From what I understand, Flash is not as immediately playful as that. Its punishment for daring to be less daring? -Scorn (it seems). Regardless, i is a shame that life will be short for Flash. It is one of the most relevant gallery restaurants I could imagine, especially when compared to culinary calamaties like the â¬ÜRex Whistlerâ¬" (Tate Britain). But then again, the most touching, most memorable narratives are brief encountersâ¬¦'The art of dining well is no slight art, the pleasure no slight pleasure...'
[Michel Eyquem de Montaigne, C.16]

THIS REVIEW is about a dining room called â¬ÜFlashâ¬", so please allow me to purge the clichÃ©s within the first paragraph. â¬SFlash in the pan, Flash fried, Flashy, you need to be flush at Flash, Flash light, gone in a Flashâ¬¦â¬ (etc. etc.) Suffice to say that all evidence of this rather couth restaurantâ¬"s 80 day existence will have been removed (or auctioned off) by February next year. It is part of the Royal Academyâ¬"s â¬ÜG.S.K.â¬" (Glaxo SmithKline) exhibition, which explores â¬Üart, performance, experimental theatreâ¬" and â¬Üan apocalyptic visionâ¬". Entering from Burlington Gardens, I was greeted by a soundtrack from the latter category: intensely unappetising, pitiful sobbingâ¬¦

Normally, I prefer to give a restaurant a little time to set into its stride rather than turn-up at the very first sitting, poised to poison it in print. I know that the Evening Standardâ¬"s Fay Maschler famously observed that if a venue is already charging full prices, they should expect little mercy. But I believe that the business of establishing something as intricate as a restaurant requires a little empathy from professional eaters. At least initially. But seeing that Flash shines for such a short season â¬ and because I was excited about the concept â¬ I ventured to the room within a room on opening night. My enthusiasm was only mildly dampened by a telephone call beforehand, which advised that the extraction system was as unhappy as the weeper in the foyer. There would be no grills tonight, although a half-price discount would be applied. This was later be annotated as â¬ÜPractice makes perfectâ¬" on the bill.

At least one loud stomach has already assessed a terminal gut reaction, describing Flash as pointless â¬ â¬Üit serves no purposeâ¬". In my opinion there is raison dâ¬"Ãªtre and integrity to this space, and that is pleasure by design. The large, but welcoming room is a collage of creative commissions. 191 plywood art storage crates form the structure. These are inlaid to resemble a trellis â¬ a reference to the original gardens once laid out where the site now stands. Behind this, various animals lurk in the â¬Üundergrowthâ¬". An opalescent painting of parrot pairs hangs above. The centrepiece of the room is a bold black, oversized snowflake of a chandellier, known as the â¬Üdeath starâ¬" by its designer. â¬ÜBrutal but beautifulâ¬", it is made of Swarovski crystal. China is supplied by Wedgewood, although the childlike dog, cat, bear and other animal heads that grace the crockery must be amongst the most avant-garde of designs in the firms 250 year history.

The menu itself is made of various layers of card lasered into a geometric pattern. We began with mauve Flash Ritaâ¬"s, ordered via a clued-up waitresses portable Play Station. From an unseen bar, gently American oak matured tequila was flawlessly blended with thick winterberry purÃ©e and a little cranberry juice. A small, cantaloupe coloured flower floated on top like a water lily.

It could be argued that a venue like Flash is more about concept and surroundings than anything culinary. The menu, which is stirred into life by Californian influences, hallowed the season. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with braised rabbit leg was languid: earthy, kind and comforting. The leg did not materialise, however: just a little knoll of lean meat, pulled from the bone, orbited by a truffle oil ring of Saturn. A pandaâ¬"s face emerged from the bowl's floor during the final excavations. My Ham Hock and Smoked Eel Terrine with Watercress Sauce was flawless. The moistly fatty, slightly sweet pink hock combined well with the discreetly smoked eel, jostled by the heady, inimitable cress. Incidentally, as a student, I remember trying to roast a hock in a Baby Belling, to little practical avail...Duck Confit with Spinach, Wild Mushrooms and Mustard Sauce was crisp and substantial and â¬ forgivably - mildly ugly. The slug-soft mushrooms were notably over-salted, however, a small opening night clanger with the sodium chloride. My Roast Cod with Baby Fennel, Sauce Vierge, Cherry Tomatoes and Fennel Cress (whatever that may be) was a joy. Soft white flesh with a crisp top urged into life by the nervy dressing. A side order of British racing green, lightly leathery curly kale was glossily bathed in blood orange juice.

From a short and snappy, interesting list, a glass of Western Australian Chardonnay (Cape Mentelle â¬"05) tidied up my palate: incisive lime, fig and flint within an unobtrusive oak picture-frame. Lemon trifle, almond cake and lemon granite was a little too spirited in the pith and acid department. Fig, raspberry, mascarpone custard, basil and praline pastry looked messy too (the coulis was thickly applied like squirted ketchup). The soft, sugary sandwich was given a hint of dynamism however thanks to the tangy baby basil leaves weaved within.

Keenly caffeinated Espresso Martinis were presented with floating beans arranged in the shape of the Mercedes star.

Flash is the second â¬Üpop-upâ¬" restaurant that the trio of minds behind (Pablo Flack, David Waddington and Tom Collins) have launched. Their first, â¬ÜReindeerâ¬", occurred two years ago at a â¬Ügrubbyâ¬", almost secret location. That three week rather than three month operation was to all accounts (most of them nostalgic) such a 'wildly exciting' success that neither love, money nor celebrity could secure a reservation once the diary was full.

From what I understand, Flash is not as immediately playful as that. Its punishment for daring to be less daring? -Scorn (it seems). Regardless, it is a shame that life will be short for Flash. It is one of the most relevant gallery restaurants I could imagine, especially when compared to culinary calamaties like the â¬ÜRex Whistlerâ¬" (Tate Britain). But then again, the most touching, most memorable narratives are brief encountersâ¬¦

Sketch - wow! by sarah2009

sarah2009 — Fri, 21 Nov 2008 14:55:56 +0000

Review by sarah2009

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 0870 777 4488

Website: http://www.sketch.uk.com

Tags: expensive, lively, trendy

I had dinner with friends in the Gallery last week and wow! I have never seen anything like it before; the food was delicious and we were entertained by the most amazing video art projections. I will definately visit again soon, if not for dinner then just to the bar.I had dinner with friends in the Gallery last week and wow! I have never seen anything like it before; the food was delicious and we were entertained by the most amazing video art projections. I will definately visit again soon, if not for dinner then just to the bar.

Maze - A-Mazing... Ha? by vexille

vexille — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 18:33:40 +0000

Review by vexille

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7107 0000

Website: http://gordonramsay.com/maze/

Tags: expensive, french, lively

It's great, but not, um, amazing.

It's all you would expect from a restaurant run by a great chef, situated in the 'sophisticated' part of town. You don't even need to have been here to imagine exactly what it'll look like. Everything is prim and proper yet remains convincingly unpretentious.

Service is good, at one point we had 3 different waiters cleaning the table, seriving us wine and taking our order. You'd almost expect them to spoon feed you so as not to crease your shirt or dirty your hands.

The 7 course meal was very very tasty, but incredibly rich. I've eaten in many places and this was the only one where I came out of still feeling peckish, but completely satisfied. The scallops are to die for.

It's just missing something that makes me want to go again, lacks soul perhaps?

Good for an experience / date but if you're looking for better I'd goto Fifteen...It's great, but not, um, amazing.

It's all you would expect from a restaurant run by a great chef, situated in the 'sophisticated' part of town. You don't even need to have been here to imagine exactly what it'll look like. Everything is prim and proper yet remains convincingly unpretentious.

Service is good, at one point we had 3 different waiters cleaning the table, seriving us wine and taking our order. You'd almost expect them to spoon feed you so as not to crease your shirt or dirty your hands.

The 7 course meal was very very tasty, but incredibly rich. I've eaten in many places and this was the only one where I came out of still feeling peckish, but completely satisfied. The scallops are to die for.

It's just missing something that makes me want to go again, lacks soul perhaps?

Good for an experience / date but if you're looking for better I'd goto Fifteen...

Wild Honey - delicious food in Mayfair by ProfMagellan

ProfMagellan — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 16:57:54 +0000

Review by ProfMagellan

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7758 9160

Website: http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk/

Tags: french, good value, romantic

Full marks to Wild Honey. A really good lunch. Nice modern room just south of Hanover Square (near Bond Street).
The service was very efficient and friendly and the menu
offered a wide variety of interesting dishes. The puds were especially good. We had an alcohol-free lunch so I cannot alas comment on the wine.
One gripe: there was a good value set lunch on offer but in tiny print buried at the bottom of the menu. Had I had a magnifying glass I might have seen it but it was only at the end of luncheon that I noticed it. I very much liked sister restaurant Arbutus
so my expectations were high and were well rewarded.
Not cheap - but good value as this was fine food in Mayfair.
A postscript: it was raining heavily as we were leaving. My (female) guest asked to borrow an umbrella and presto the maitre d provided one for her. That is the sort of positive attitude that makes one recommend Wild Honey
without reservation.Full marks to Wild Honey. A really good lunch. Nice modern room just south of Hanover Square (near Bond Street).
The service was very efficient and friendly and the menu
offered a wide variety of interesting dishes. The puds were especially good. We had an alcohol-free lunch so I cannot alas comment on the wine.
One gripe: there was a good value set lunch on offer but in tiny print buried at the bottom of the menu. Had I had a magnifying glass I might have seen it but it was only at the end of luncheon that I noticed it. I very much liked sister restaurant Arbutus
so my expectations were high and were well rewarded.
Not cheap - but good value as this was fine food in Mayfair.
A postscript: it was raining heavily as we were leaving. My (female) guest asked to borrow an umbrella and presto the maitre d provided one for her. That is the sort of positive attitude that makes one recommend Wild Honey
without reservation.

Browns - by NickR

NickR — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 11:58:58 +0000

Review by NickR

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7491 4565

Website: http://www.browns-restaurants.com

Tags: bar, air conditioning, brasserie

A very nice atmospheric, but not too hectic place for an after work drink with friends. Food is good and service is attentive too. The dedor is great, with traditional quality brasserie style, which leave you feeling warm and comfortable.
A very nice atmospheric, but not too hectic place for an after work drink with friends. Food is good and service is attentive too. The dedor is great, with traditional quality brasserie style, which leave you feeling warm and comfortable.

Benares - Awesome, faultless food by Foodlovers

Foodlovers — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 19:35:25 +0000

Review by Foodlovers

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7629 8886

Tags: indian, expensive, lively

Had a great experience from start to finish. We opted for the set menu which was Â£30 and not disappointed. I had the tandoori rabbit which was gorgeous followed by the slow cooked lamb shoulder with a masala mash then a pistachio kulfi. What was so good about the set menu was not only did you get your 3 courses you each got a glass of wine, poppadoms and pickles, a pre appetiser which was a spicy artichoke soup with beetroot foam which warmed you up on a cold day and a palette freshening melon sorbet before your desert plus tea and coffee and petit four. It felt as if you were no less important than the people opting for the a la carte menu.
It was our friends birthday and they decorated a plate with extra petit fours and candle with a Happy Birthday on in chocolate.
The attention to every detail was great and the food was mouthwatering and perfect that I have nothing negative to say!!
We even met the owner Atul Kocher whom was very pleasant and appreciative of our good comments.
With a bottle of wine as well the bill was Â£186 and worth every penny.
Only comment is it is a large restaurant great to go with friends and family but if you are after the quiet romantic spot probably wouldn't meet that criteria but the food definately makes up for it!!Had a great experience from start to finish. We opted for the set menu which was Â£30 and not disappointed. I had the tandoori rabbit which was gorgeous followed by the slow cooked lamb shoulder with a masala mash then a pistachio kulfi. What was so good about the set menu was not only did you get your 3 courses you each got a glass of wine, poppadoms and pickles, a pre appetiser which was a spicy artichoke soup with beetroot foam which warmed you up on a cold day and a palette freshening melon sorbet before your desert plus tea and coffee and petit four. It felt as if you were no less important than the people opting for the a la carte menu.
It was our friends birthday and they decorated a plate with extra petit fours and candle with a Happy Birthday on in chocolate.
The attention to every detail was great and the food was mouthwatering and perfect that I have nothing negative to say!!
We even met the owner Atul Kocher whom was very pleasant and appreciative of our good comments.
With a bottle of wine as well the bill was Â£186 and worth every penny.
Only comment is it is a large restaurant great to go with friends and family but if you are after the quiet romantic spot probably wouldn't meet that criteria but the food definately makes up for it!!

Le Gavroche - Le Gavroche, 30 October 2008 by Food_Snob

Food_Snob — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 08:48:48 +0000

Review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7408 0881

Website: http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk/

Tags: french, expensive, romantic

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/le-gavroche-the-return-london/

Text-only Critique:

It was raining. It was cold. I was at Marble Arch station and I was early. â¬ÜIf I get there too soon, they will make me wait outside till they open,â¬" I thought to myself. But there was nothing else to do, nowhere else to go, so I headed down Park Lane. My toes had become numb from the short walk between Marble Arch and the restaurant, but as soon as I turned left onto Upper Brook Street, my heart, and my belly, were warmed by the fond memories of my last meal here. Instinctively, I started smiling to myself and my gait quickened, footsteps shortened, my heart began to beat a little faster. I felt the cold no longer.

Its discreet door is distinguished only by the simple signage above. As one approaches, a symbolic fleur-de-lis, the Relais & Chateaux logo, and caricature coq gaulois, the arms of the Traditions & QualitÃ© association, assure the diner they have arrived at one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde.

I rang the bell. Promptly one of Le Gavrocheâ¬"s ginger gemini allowed me in. â¬ÜSorry, I am so early,â¬" I yelped, â¬Üis it alright if I wait inside, it is freezing out there?â¬" â¬ÜOf course,â¬" the little lady assured me as she took my coat, â¬Üwe couldnâ¬"t leave you in the cold now, could we?â¬" And to think of the countless times I have been forced to wait outside a restaurantâ¬¦

I sat down on one of the plush couches in the cosy salon. Jumbo macadamias were set beside me and I requested the menu. I was pleased to have some time, before H came, to check le carte and I needed it; every dish read delicious. â¬ÜYouâ¬"re backâ¬" a French baritone boomed in my direction. I looked up. It was Emmanuel. He had recognised me although he had not seen me since July and warmly welcomed me. I felt guilty I had waited so long to return.

Once ready, my greeterâ¬"s ringer escorted me to my table; one of the lovely big, banquetted booths from which one can watch all the action of the dining room unfold. H, who I had not met with since Roussillon, arrived on time. Graciously, he left most of the food selection to me and after checking he had brought with him a healthy appetite, Emmanuel and I set about organising our order. It is late autumn, which means â¬"tis the season for game - jâ¬"adore mon gibier - and the ALC and chef propose were brimming with mouth-watering wild birds. I put forward a few of my preferences and let Emmanuel decide the rest.

Amuse Bouche 1: Langoustine Beignet and Curried Smoked Bacon. A small, shimmering serving-tray supplied our starting amuses of crunchy-coated, juicy langoustines swollen with sea-sweet succulence. I had to handover my enticing, but illicit cup of curried pork to H, who was pretty pleased with the unexpected present.

Les Pains: Country Roll; Rye; Baguette; and Mixed Cereal & Raisin. Artisan bread is bought in from French master-bakers, Bagatelle, but bestowed baking hot - every time. Each variety was good and even better than before. Country roll was crisp and yeasty; the baguette, soft, crusty and proved an effective sponge. I liked most the mixed cereal and rye equally; the wholemeal, triangular raisin rolls were thick and rustic while the rye, deeply flavoured and moist. Butter is sourced from two different purveyors: the super-creamy salted is from Le Gall, in Breton GuÃ©rande and is made with the townâ¬"s famous fleur de sel; and the unsalted is from Sarl Ets Beillevaire, an organic producer in Machecoul in the Loire.

Amuse Bouche 2: Artichoke Beignet, Mixed Salad and Balsamic Vinaigrette. Another amuse of pork mousse quenelle arrived, but informing them I could not eat it, within minutes, this replacement was brought in its stead. Lightly battered, crispy artichoke leaf lay on a bed of micro greens, dressed with balsamic vinegar. The nutty vegetable and vinaigrette balanced the bitterness of the greens, leaving just their fresh bite.

EntrÃ©e 1: SoufflÃ© Suissesse. Cheese soufflÃ© Cooked on Double Cream. Although I had tried this already, I did not resist it sneaking onto our agenda again (plus, it means I can recycle my description from my first post: very lazy, I know). The menuâ¬"s translation does not do this justice. Arguably Le Gavrocheâ¬"s most famous dish, certainly its oldest, this has been on the menu since day one. An ethereal island of rich GruyÃ¨re and cheddar cheese arrived floating upon a deep lake of bÃ©chamel and cream sauces. The initial savoury aroma of the baked cheese confection tantalised the taste buds. The appearance, grandiose and striking yet so precious, almost prevents one from violating that gentle crust, but each ambrosial spoonful that follows brushes all regrets aside. Every moist, indulgent, buttery bite is a palpable step closer towards an early, but richly deserved, grave.

EntrÃ©e 2: Coquille St. Jacques GrillÃ©e, Compote dâ¬"Aubergine et Fleur de Fenouil. Grilled Diver Caught Scallop, Spicy Aubergine, Fennel Pollen and Parsley Coulis. A char grilled, sizeable scallop sat atop spiced aubergine compote and alongside pea shoot salad and beetroot crisp, all upon dark pastel green purls of parsley coulis peppered with fennel pollen. The shellfish, suffused with clean, smoky savour, was soft yet firm. The creamy aubergine, seasoned with mustard seed, had a gentle kick to it, which, together with the peppery, grassy parsley, freshened the whole dish. Sugary-spinach-like, so slightly earthy, crisp pea shoots added some texture while the beetroot, salty and sweet, contributed crunch. Fennel pollen, which I had heard rumours of but not yet tried, was strongly aromatic with a honey-like, flowery taste, smoother than anise. The new, interesting and expensive - similarly priced as saffron, though liberally applied - enhancerâ¬"s light liquorice essence worked well with the scallop.

EntrÃ©e 3: Petit Chausson de Canard Sauvage et Pistaches, ChicorÃ©e Rotie Minute et Sauce Rouennaise. Hot Wild Duck Pie with Pistachios and Roasted Endive Salad. Flaky pastry filled with wild duck and pistachio was accompanied by roast endive in sauce Rouennaise. The pie was perfect: short, buttery crust, lined with moist inner layer and stuffed with steaming, strong, tender duck. The nuts offered mild sweetness and creamy chewiness; whilst the sauce, a Bordelaise (dry red wine, bone marrow, shallots and demi-glace) with purÃ©ed duck foie gras, was deliciously deep. Caramelised endive was delicately bitter and thus a good counterpoint to the richer meat and gravy. The exemplary execution and serious savours made this a wow.

Plat Principal 1: Darne de Turbot GrillÃ©e et Beurre Blanc Ã la Ciboulette. Grilled â¬ÜTâ¬" Bone of Turbot, Chive Sauce, Chick Pea Chips and Courgette Cannelloni. Half a hunky chunk of T-bone Turbot, teamed with chive beurre blanc, came with thick-cut chickpea frites and ratatouille-packed courgette parcels. The charred fillet, flush with woody flavour, was great in texture and taste, its firm, white flesh falling off the fishy-spine in steak-like strips. The hot, buttery sauce, mildly onion and garlicky, was a superb condiment compliment. Ratatouille roll mops were filled with smoky, earthy eggplant, sweet red pepper, tomato and onions. The chips were well-made, but seemed maybe surplus to requirements.

Plat Principal 2: Le LiÃ¨vre Ã la Royale. Classic Braised Stuffed Saddle of Hare and Swiss Chard. Legendary LiÃ¨vre Ã la Royale is soaked in history and tradition and marked as the â¬Ümost mythical meal in French cuisineâ¬". Its actual recipe, however, is much disputed.

Original credit for the creation commonly lies with Senator Aristide Couteaux, who in November 1898, instead of his usual political column in Le Temps newspaper, published directions for a new dish. He reported of his week in Poitou hunting a special hare and, once catching it, taking the Paris train straight to his chef-friend, M. SpÃ¼ller in Rue Favart, famous in his day. Couteauxâ¬"s instructions are retold in Elizabeth Davidâ¬"s A Book of Mediterranean Food: one requires (and I summarise) a hare, â¬Ücleanly killedâ¬¦so not [to] have lost a drop of bloodâ¬"; goose fat; bacon; good wine vinegar; red wine; 20 garlic cloves; 40 shallot cloves; carrot; onion; bouquet garni; plus optional cognac for the hareâ¬"s blood. The meat is stewed for hours in wine and sauce thickened with blood; if properly prepared, it is â¬Üneedless to say, that to use a knife to serve the hare would be a sacrilege. A spoon alone is amply sufficient.â¬" As SpÃ¼ller cooked this, its aroma alone, wafting from the restaurant, apparently had crowds of passers-by sniffing, straining and shoving their way to his door.

However, Henri Babinski, writing in his Gastronomie Pratique (1907) under the brilliant anonym Ali Baba, contested the technique, claiming the animal should be boned, stuffed with foie gras and truffle, simmered slowly in wine and hare stock, with the end result resembling a ballotine served in thick slices with brandy-and-blood-thickened gravy.

And, of course, there is a third way. Prosper Montagne, in Larousse Gastronomique (1938), states the hare be stuffed with a mixture including truffles, goose foie gras and hare blood and giblets, before being braised in white wine and briefly browned in the oven.

Now, that was either Q.I. or quite boring, so let me return to Le Gavroche, whose chefs follow, fittingly, Ali Babaâ¬"s ten-page preparation (probably because Couteauxâ¬"s civet demands seven days spent hunting and seven hours in the kitchen). The ballotine of boned, foie gras-stuffed saddle of hare, sitting in red wine and blood sauce strewn with wild mushrooms, was served with Swiss chard gratin. The hare was lusciously strong and gamey; its dark red meat, robust and dense, contrasted well with the sweeter, softer foie gras-filling. Sticky, potent, powerful bloody gravy was lip-smackingly good and added essential moisture to le liÃ¨vre. The nutty, creamy GruyÃ¨re gratin of earthy chard was savoury-sweet and cheesy-rich, complementing the similarly earthy and nutty, plump mushrooms.

Plat Principal 3: Perdreau RÃ´ti en Cocotte Ã lâ¬"Alsacienne. Roast Partridge with Sauerkraut, Roast Potato and Alsace Bacon. Whole partridge, roasted then baked in a sealed pot with its accompanying vegetables, was presented en cocotte, then carved tableside. Half the bird, roasted potato pair, Chantenay carrot couple and sauerkraut serving were plated then dressed with brandy jus for each of us (normally Alsace bacon would also be included). The plump partridge had moist, tender flesh with delicate, subtly gaminess whilst the brandy, blended with jus roti, made for a lovely, not overpowering sauce. Carrots were crisp and honey-like; potatoes, roasted perfectly; and sour cabbage had nice smokiness. This delicious dish, in Alsatian style - which explains the Germanic influence - was soft yet satisfying; all the simple elements gelling gently and comfortably together.
Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/30/le-gavroche-the-return-london/

Text-only Critique:

It was raining. It was cold. I was at Marble Arch station and I was early. â¬ÜIf I get there too soon, they will make me wait outside till they open,â¬" I thought to myself. But there was nothing else to do, nowhere else to go, so I headed down Park Lane. My toes had become numb from the short walk between Marble Arch and the restaurant, but as soon as I turned left onto Upper Brook Street, my heart, and my belly, were warmed by the fond memories of my last meal here. Instinctively, I started smiling to myself and my gait quickened, footsteps shortened, my heart began to beat a little faster. I felt the cold no longer.

Its discreet door is distinguished only by the simple signage above. As one approaches, a symbolic fleur-de-lis, the Relais & Chateaux logo, and caricature coq gaulois, the arms of the Traditions & QualitÃ© association, assure the diner they have arrived at one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde.

I rang the bell. Promptly one of Le Gavrocheâ¬"s ginger gemini allowed me in. â¬ÜSorry, I am so early,â¬" I yelped, â¬Üis it alright if I wait inside, it is freezing out there?â¬" â¬ÜOf course,â¬" the little lady assured me as she took my coat, â¬Üwe couldnâ¬"t leave you in the cold now, could we?â¬" And to think of the countless times I have been forced to wait outside a restaurantâ¬¦

I sat down on one of the plush couches in the cosy salon. Jumbo macadamias were set beside me and I requested the menu. I was pleased to have some time, before H came, to check le carte and I needed it; every dish read delicious. â¬ÜYouâ¬"re backâ¬" a French baritone boomed in my direction. I looked up. It was Emmanuel. He had recognised me although he had not seen me since July and warmly welcomed me. I felt guilty I had waited so long to return.

Once ready, my greeterâ¬"s ringer escorted me to my table; one of the lovely big, banquetted booths from which one can watch all the action of the dining room unfold. H, who I had not met with since Roussillon, arrived on time. Graciously, he left most of the food selection to me and after checking he had brought with him a healthy appetite, Emmanuel and I set about organising our order. It is late autumn, which means â¬"tis the season for game - jâ¬"adore mon gibier - and the ALC and chef propose were brimming with mouth-watering wild birds. I put forward a few of my preferences and let Emmanuel decide the rest.

Amuse Bouche 1: Langoustine Beignet and Curried Smoked Bacon. A small, shimmering serving-tray supplied our starting amuses of crunchy-coated, juicy langoustines swollen with sea-sweet succulence. I had to handover my enticing, but illicit cup of curried pork to H, who was pretty pleased with the unexpected present.

Les Pains: Country Roll; Rye; Baguette; and Mixed Cereal & Raisin. Artisan bread is bought in from French master-bakers, Bagatelle, but bestowed baking hot - every time. Each variety was good and even better than before. Country roll was crisp and yeasty; the baguette, soft, crusty and proved an effective sponge. I liked most the mixed cereal and rye equally; the wholemeal, triangular raisin rolls were thick and rustic while the rye, deeply flavoured and moist. Butter is sourced from two different purveyors: the super-creamy salted is from Le Gall, in Breton GuÃ©rande and is made with the townâ¬"s famous fleur de sel; and the unsalted is from Sarl Ets Beillevaire, an organic producer in Machecoul in the Loire.

Amuse Bouche 2: Artichoke Beignet, Mixed Salad and Balsamic Vinaigrette. Another amuse of pork mousse quenelle arrived, but informing them I could not eat it, within minutes, this replacement was brought in its stead. Lightly battered, crispy artichoke leaf lay on a bed of micro greens, dressed with balsamic vinegar. The nutty vegetable and vinaigrette balanced the bitterness of the greens, leaving just their fresh bite.

EntrÃ©e 1: SoufflÃ© Suissesse. Cheese soufflÃ© Cooked on Double Cream. Although I had tried this already, I did not resist it sneaking onto our agenda again (plus, it means I can recycle my description from my first post: very lazy, I know). The menuâ¬"s translation does not do this justice. Arguably Le Gavrocheâ¬"s most famous dish, certainly its oldest, this has been on the menu since day one. An ethereal island of rich GruyÃ¨re and cheddar cheese arrived floating upon a deep lake of bÃ©chamel and cream sauces. The initial savoury aroma of the baked cheese confection tantalised the taste buds. The appearance, grandiose and striking yet so precious, almost prevents one from violating that gentle crust, but each ambrosial spoonful that follows brushes all regrets aside. Every moist, indulgent, buttery bite is a palpable step closer towards an early, but richly deserved, grave.

EntrÃ©e 2: Coquille St. Jacques GrillÃ©e, Compote dâ¬"Aubergine et Fleur de Fenouil. Grilled Diver Caught Scallop, Spicy Aubergine, Fennel Pollen and Parsley Coulis. A char grilled, sizeable scallop sat atop spiced aubergine compote and alongside pea shoot salad and beetroot crisp, all upon dark pastel green purls of parsley coulis peppered with fennel pollen. The shellfish, suffused with clean, smoky savour, was soft yet firm. The creamy aubergine, seasoned with mustard seed, had a gentle kick to it, which, together with the peppery, grassy parsley, freshened the whole dish. Sugary-spinach-like, so slightly earthy, crisp pea shoots added some texture while the beetroot, salty and sweet, contributed crunch. Fennel pollen, which I had heard rumours of but not yet tried, was strongly aromatic with a honey-like, flowery taste, smoother than anise. The new, interesting and expensive - similarly priced as saffron, though liberally applied - enhancerâ¬"s light liquorice essence worked well with the scallop.

EntrÃ©e 3: Petit Chausson de Canard Sauvage et Pistaches, ChicorÃ©e Rotie Minute et Sauce Rouennaise. Hot Wild Duck Pie with Pistachios and Roasted Endive Salad. Flaky pastry filled with wild duck and pistachio was accompanied by roast endive in sauce Rouennaise. The pie was perfect: short, buttery crust, lined with moist inner layer and stuffed with steaming, strong, tender duck. The nuts offered mild sweetness and creamy chewiness; whilst the sauce, a Bordelaise (dry red wine, bone marrow, shallots and demi-glace) with purÃ©ed duck foie gras, was deliciously deep. Caramelised endive was delicately bitter and thus a good counterpoint to the richer meat and gravy. The exemplary execution and serious savours made this a wow.

Plat Principal 1: Darne de Turbot GrillÃ©e et Beurre Blanc Ã la Ciboulette. Grilled â¬ÜTâ¬" Bone of Turbot, Chive Sauce, Chick Pea Chips and Courgette Cannelloni. Half a hunky chunk of T-bone Turbot, teamed with chive beurre blanc, came with thick-cut chickpea frites and ratatouille-packed courgette parcels. The charred fillet, flush with woody flavour, was great in texture and taste, its firm, white flesh falling off the fishy-spine in steak-like strips. The hot, buttery sauce, mildly onion and garlicky, was a superb condiment compliment. Ratatouille roll mops were filled with smoky, earthy eggplant, sweet red pepper, tomato and onions. The chips were well-made, but seemed maybe surplus to requirements.

Plat Principal 2: Le LiÃ¨vre Ã la Royale. Classic Braised Stuffed Saddle of Hare and Swiss Chard. Legendary LiÃ¨vre Ã la Royale is soaked in history and tradition and marked as the â¬Ümost mythical meal in French cuisineâ¬". Its actual recipe, however, is much disputed.

Original credit for the creation commonly lies with Senator Aristide Couteaux, who in November 1898, instead of his usual political column in Le Temps newspaper, published directions for a new dish. He reported of his week in Poitou hunting a special hare and, once catching it, taking the Paris train straight to his chef-friend, M. SpÃ¼ller in Rue Favart, famous in his day. Couteauxâ¬"s instructions are retold in Elizabeth Davidâ¬"s A Book of Mediterranean Food: one requires (and I summarise) a hare, â¬Ücleanly killedâ¬¦so not [to] have lost a drop of bloodâ¬"; goose fat; bacon; good wine vinegar; red wine; 20 garlic cloves; 40 shallot cloves; carrot; onion; bouquet garni; plus optional cognac for the hareâ¬"s blood. The meat is stewed for hours in wine and sauce thickened with blood; if properly prepared, it is â¬Üneedless to say, that to use a knife to serve the hare would be a sacrilege. A spoon alone is amply sufficient.â¬" As SpÃ¼ller cooked this, its aroma alone, wafting from the restaurant, apparently had crowds of passers-by sniffing, straining and shoving their way to his door.

However, Henri Babinski, writing in his Gastronomie Pratique (1907) under the brilliant anonym Ali Baba, contested the technique, claiming the animal should be boned, stuffed with foie gras and truffle, simmered slowly in wine and hare stock, with the end result resembling a ballotine served in thick slices with brandy-and-blood-thickened gravy.

And, of course, there is a third way. Prosper Montagne, in Larousse Gastronomique (1938), states the hare be stuffed with a mixture including truffles, goose foie gras and hare blood and giblets, before being braised in white wine and briefly browned in the oven.

Now, that was either Q.I. or quite boring, so let me return to Le Gavroche, whose chefs follow, fittingly, Ali Babaâ¬"s ten-page preparation (probably because Couteauxâ¬"s civet demands seven days spent hunting and seven hours in the kitchen). The ballotine of boned, foie gras-stuffed saddle of hare, sitting in red wine and blood sauce strewn with wild mushrooms, was served with Swiss chard gratin. The hare was lusciously strong and gamey; its dark red meat, robust and dense, contrasted well with the sweeter, softer foie gras-filling. Sticky, potent, powerful bloody gravy was lip-smackingly good and added essential moisture to le liÃ¨vre. The nutty, creamy GruyÃ¨re gratin of earthy chard was savoury-sweet and cheesy-rich, complementing the similarly earthy and nutty, plump mushrooms.

Plat Principal 3: Perdreau RÃ´ti en Cocotte Ã lâ¬"Alsacienne. Roast Partridge with Sauerkraut, Roast Potato and Alsace Bacon. Whole partridge, roasted then baked in a sealed pot with its accompanying vegetables, was presented en cocotte, then carved tableside. Half the bird, roasted potato pair, Chantenay carrot couple and sauerkraut serving were plated then dressed with brandy jus for each of us (normally Alsace bacon would also be included). The plump partridge had moist, tender flesh with delicate, subtly gaminess whilst the brandy, blended with jus roti, made for a lovely, not overpowering sauce. Carrots were crisp and honey-like; potatoes, roasted perfectly; and sour cabbage had nice smokiness. This delicious dish, in Alsatian style - which explains the Germanic influence - was soft yet satisfying; all the simple elements gelling gently and comfortably together.

Maze Grill - Joy to behold. by bellaphon

bellaphon — Sun, 02 Nov 2008 22:38:24 +0000

Review by bellaphon

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7495 2211

Website: http://gordonramsay.com/mazegrill

Tags: american, expensive, romantic

â¬ÜA thing of beauty is a joy for ever:
Its loveliness increases; it will never
Pass into nothingness;â¬" Endymion by John Keats.

I have an idiosyncratic aunt, who loves her steak well done, in fact preferably charred to death. Many a time Iâ¬"ve witnessed the piece of meat on her plate embarrassingly returned to the kitchen to be re-cooked because a slight hue of pinkyness had been detected. A good steak is primarily a wonderful thing and to have it cooked well done will most definitely pass into nothingness.

I was and still am apprehensive about the ambience of the dining room. Itâ¬"s got that clinically corporate thing about it. Being south facing, I can only assume the bright room is thus perfect for business lunches and the evenings will probably appeal to romantic couples who crave dark incandescent lighting. When booking go for table 228, this is where the entire dining room is under your watchful eyes and the happy kitchen just behind you. The service from the friendly staff was brilliant but only let down by the usual incomprehensible English spoken (as we all agree, itâ¬"s all too common in London) when describing the dishes.

Small plates of Salt and pepper squid and Padron peppers were I thought pretty much generous in portions and thankfully delicious as well. My Creekstone New York strip steak was simply profound, this piece of meat was so totally melting and buttery, you might as well order it rare instead of my regretted choice of medium. My companionâ¬"s Aberdeen Angus fillet was the best heâ¬"s had until he tried my Creekstone. Like Barrafina, where we donâ¬"t have to fly to Barcelona for decent tapas; the Maze Grill have also done us more than a favour with the steak served, which can only be as good as the one found at Peter Luger in New York. Incidentally my accompanying sauce of Red wine â¬Übordelaiseâ¬" with crispy bone marrow was mind blowingly yummy and it ought to be rightfully merited as a standalone dish. Companionâ¬"s pudding choice of Cider apple trifle with financiers and cider granitÃ© was suggested refreshing and perfect after a gratifying steak. My three separate servings of Cinnamon doughnut, cafÃ© coupe, hot chocolate were delightful; those doughnuts were simply the best Iâ¬"ve had.

Thereâ¬"s one thing for sure, thereâ¬"s simply no way Iâ¬"m going to tell my aunt about this place. Secondly LTS (lifeâ¬"s too short), go and treat yourself to possibly the finest steak youâ¬"ll have in Blighty.
â¬ÜA thing of beauty is a joy for ever:
Its loveliness increases; it will never
Pass into nothingness;â¬" Endymion by John Keats.

I have an idiosyncratic aunt, who loves her steak well done, in fact preferably charred to death. Many a time Iâ¬"ve witnessed the piece of meat on her plate embarrassingly returned to the kitchen to be re-cooked because a slight hue of pinkyness had been detected. A good steak is primarily a wonderful thing and to have it cooked well done will most definitely pass into nothingness.

I was and still am apprehensive about the ambience of the dining room. Itâ¬"s got that clinically corporate thing about it. Being south facing, I can only assume the bright room is thus perfect for business lunches and the evenings will probably appeal to romantic couples who crave dark incandescent lighting. When booking go for table 228, this is where the entire dining room is under your watchful eyes and the happy kitchen just behind you. The service from the friendly staff was brilliant but only let down by the usual incomprehensible English spoken (as we all agree, itâ¬"s all too common in London) when describing the dishes.

Small plates of Salt and pepper squid and Padron peppers were I thought pretty much generous in portions and thankfully delicious as well. My Creekstone New York strip steak was simply profound, this piece of meat was so totally melting and buttery, you might as well order it rare instead of my regretted choice of medium. My companionâ¬"s Aberdeen Angus fillet was the best heâ¬"s had until he tried my Creekstone. Like Barrafina, where we donâ¬"t have to fly to Barcelona for decent tapas; the Maze Grill have also done us more than a favour with the steak served, which can only be as good as the one found at Peter Luger in New York. Incidentally my accompanying sauce of Red wine â¬Übordelaiseâ¬" with crispy bone marrow was mind blowingly yummy and it ought to be rightfully merited as a standalone dish. Companionâ¬"s pudding choice of Cider apple trifle with financiers and cider granitÃ© was suggested refreshing and perfect after a gratifying steak. My three separate servings of Cinnamon doughnut, cafÃ© coupe, hot chocolate were delightful; those doughnuts were simply the best Iâ¬"ve had.

Thereâ¬"s one thing for sure, thereâ¬"s simply no way Iâ¬"m going to tell my aunt about this place. Secondly LTS (lifeâ¬"s too short), go and treat yourself to possibly the finest steak youâ¬"ll have in Blighty.

Avista - As expected. Fine Dining. by neelmistry

neelmistry — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 22:01:04 +0000

Review by neelmistry

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7596 3399

Tags: italian, romantic, good value

Went to Avista 3 days after its opening. I wasn't expecting much, but the quality of food was excellent, the staff friendly and efficient. I had the mozzarella and tomato tart to start which is little more than a large ball of cheese and pizza squares. The main was suitably better. I opted for the lamb gnocchi - delicious. They have a great wine list too. It'll get better. Ambiance and space wise - the restaurant is great, with a separate bar and one long table suitable for a party.Went to Avista 3 days after its opening. I wasn't expecting much, but the quality of food was excellent, the staff friendly and efficient. I had the mozzarella and tomato tart to start which is little more than a large ball of cheese and pizza squares. The main was suitably better. I opted for the lamb gnocchi - delicious. They have a great wine list too. It'll get better. Ambiance and space wise - the restaurant is great, with a separate bar and one long table suitable for a party.

Hard Rock Cafe - Hard rock cafe by sexyuklad

sexyuklad — Wed, 08 Oct 2008 16:03:45 +0000

Review by sexyuklad

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7629 0382

Website: http://www.hardrock.com

Tags: american, lively, expensive

I have only eaten here the once and probably wont eat there again as to me it is too expensive and the wait to be seated is unbelievable!

I will admit that the food portions were relatively big and tasted pretty good but the prices are just too much. I would only recommend going there as a treat or if you can afford their prices.

You definitely need to pre-book your table as when I went there they gave us this little control thing that beeps when it is your turn but we waited for nearly two hours!

Oh they also have a little shop/museum thing next door.
I have only eaten here the once and probably wont eat there again as to me it is too expensive and the wait to be seated is unbelievable!

I will admit that the food portions were relatively big and tasted pretty good but the prices are just too much. I would only recommend going there as a treat or if you can afford their prices.

You definitely need to pre-book your table as when I went there they gave us this little control thing that beeps when it is your turn but we waited for nearly two hours!

Oh they also have a little shop/museum thing next door.