Latest reviews for Restaurants in Islington, London, United Kingdom

Banana Tree Canteen - Maybe they meant Rubber Tree.... by acrobat

acrobat — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 10:49:45 +0000

Review by acrobat

Rating: 1.00

Phone: (020) 7278 7565

The Banana Tree Canteen has opened near Angel - and I wanted to like the new addition to the southward spread restaurants at the top of St Johns St. It was alas pretty bad.

Poor service, with staff not really caring whether they took an order, brought a bill or in fact anything.

The food was bland - the curry laksa had no bite and the pad thai was a glutinous mess and with so many better options within easy reach of Angel I'd rather go somewhere else.

Its been described as 'casual chic' in some other reviews - it may aspire to that (or not), but it is a long long way from living up to the label.The Banana Tree Canteen has opened near Angel - and I wanted to like the new addition to the southward spread restaurants at the top of St Johns St. It was alas pretty bad.

Poor service, with staff not really caring whether they took an order, brought a bill or in fact anything.

The food was bland - the curry laksa had no bite and the pad thai was a glutinous mess and with so many better options within easy reach of Angel I'd rather go somewhere else.

Its been described as 'casual chic' in some other reviews - it may aspire to that (or not), but it is a long long way from living up to the label.

Gem - Uppers and Downers by up_shiraz

up_shiraz — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 17:19:19 +0000

Review by up_shiraz

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7359 0405

Tags: turkish, lively, good value

There are more eateries on Upper Street than one road neccesarily deserves. So how to choose one? Well the brief was...a few quick tastes at the Sampler, then a 1 hour slot for dinner and then down to the cinema to see Bond smoulder on the big screen before despatching a few bad guys through walls and stuff.

We'd been to Gem before because the name appeals to the young lady (I wonder why...?). We went back this time because of the fine food and the reasons above. It is a very friendly place with a partially unhinged waitress who's a bit of a hoot.

Little pancakes to start and then cold and hot mezze all round. The dips were tasty and the hot bits delicious. It wasn't complicated but it was well executed and everyone left feeling full and feeling that they'd got good value for their tenner. A beautiful bottle of Rioja on top and a bit of service and it was all in for Â£15 a head. And done in under an hour.

Government Warning: Do not arrive at the cinema after the hordes, sit right at the front and try to follow extreme Bond action camera movements on a full stomach of Kurdish food!There are more eateries on Upper Street than one road neccesarily deserves. So how to choose one? Well the brief was...a few quick tastes at the Sampler, then a 1 hour slot for dinner and then down to the cinema to see Bond smoulder on the big screen before despatching a few bad guys through walls and stuff.

We'd been to Gem before because the name appeals to the young lady (I wonder why...?). We went back this time because of the fine food and the reasons above. It is a very friendly place with a partially unhinged waitress who's a bit of a hoot.

Little pancakes to start and then cold and hot mezze all round. The dips were tasty and the hot bits delicious. It wasn't complicated but it was well executed and everyone left feeling full and feeling that they'd got good value for their tenner. A beautiful bottle of Rioja on top and a bit of service and it was all in for Â£15 a head. And done in under an hour.

Government Warning: Do not arrive at the cinema after the hordes, sit right at the front and try to follow extreme Bond action camera movements on a full stomach of Kurdish food!

Moro - Great tasting food by MoRaja

MoRaja — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:46:31 +0000

Review by MoRaja

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7833 8336

Website: http://www.moro.co.uk/

Tags: spanish, lively, good value

I love going to Moro. Whilst working in the area I would visit at least once a month for a treat. The food, especially the fish dishes are full of flavour and perfectly cooked. It can be very noisy when busy, so not always the best place to go if you want a serious conversation over dinner/lunch.I love going to Moro. Whilst working in the area I would visit at least once a month for a treat. The food, especially the fish dishes are full of flavour and perfectly cooked. It can be very noisy when busy, so not always the best place to go if you want a serious conversation over dinner/lunch.

Sen Nin (formerly Ah-So) - Please try harder, and charge me less! by dafinki

dafinki — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:19:57 +0000

Review by dafinki

Rating: 2.00

Tags: expensive, pretentious, japanese

Really not impressed. First of all we witnessed the most lacklustre display of teppenyaki cooking ever. Then they forgot our gyoza. Then we got the billÂ â¬Â almost Â£50 for a lunch with no alcohol. Not good value for money.

When is there going to be a decent Japanese restaurant on Upper Street?Really not impressed. First of all we witnessed the most lacklustre display of teppenyaki cooking ever. Then they forgot our gyoza. Then we got the billÂ â¬Â almost Â£50 for a lunch with no alcohol. Not good value for money.

When is there going to be a decent Japanese restaurant on Upper Street?

Indian Veg Bhelpoori House - Beat the credit crunch... by dafinki

dafinki — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 15:55:55 +0000

Review by dafinki

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7833 1167

Tags: indian, cheap eat, vegetarian

You really couldn't top this place for value for money. It's a vegan indian curry buffet with five curries, three types of rice and lots of other bits like onion bhaji, popadum, roti, pakora, salads and dry snacks.

The curries are tasty but not clever. There are three potato-based curries which are fairly indistinguishable, another a bit like motor paneer except it must have been tofu, and dhal. However, when you can eat as much as you like for Â£3.95 you can hardly complain. It's always fresh and frequently topped up and the drinks are cheap too.

While you're tucking in you can cast your eye over the veggie propaganda covering the walls; probably more entertaining than informative. Apart from that it's very standard cafÃ© decor but what else do you need? It's cheap, it's ethical, it's tasty â¬Â a guilt-free meal out in these tough times is definitely appreciated!You really couldn't top this place for value for money. It's a vegan indian curry buffet with five curries, three types of rice and lots of other bits like onion bhaji, popadum, roti, pakora, salads and dry snacks.

The curries are tasty but not clever. There are three potato-based curries which are fairly indistinguishable, another a bit like motor paneer except it must have been tofu, and dhal. However, when you can eat as much as you like for Â£3.95 you can hardly complain. It's always fresh and frequently topped up and the drinks are cheap too.

While you're tucking in you can cast your eye over the veggie propaganda covering the walls; probably more entertaining than informative. Apart from that it's very standard cafÃ© decor but what else do you need? It's cheap, it's ethical, it's tasty â¬Â a guilt-free meal out in these tough times is definitely appreciated!

Cafe El Paso - Far from Mexican by CristinaA

CristinaA — Thu, 30 Oct 2008 13:37:40 +0000

Review by CristinaA

Rating: 2.00

Phone: 020 7739 4202

Tags: lively, crowded, central

Could do with some work inside, not really what Iâ¬"d call an authentic Mexican bar/restaurant.

I guess it depends what youâ¬"re used to, Iâ¬"ve been to Mexico and southern parts of America heavily populated by Latin Americans and the food doesnâ¬"t taste like this. The food tastes like it's all pre-cooked or frozen, just standard Mexican style pub food.

Staff are friendly and attentive.
Could do with some work inside, not really what Iâ¬"d call an authentic Mexican bar/restaurant.

I guess it depends what youâ¬"re used to, Iâ¬"ve been to Mexico and southern parts of America heavily populated by Latin Americans and the food doesnâ¬"t taste like this. The food tastes like it's all pre-cooked or frozen, just standard Mexican style pub food.

Staff are friendly and attentive.

Yelo - Take-away by CristinaA

CristinaA — Thu, 30 Oct 2008 11:21:27 +0000

Review by CristinaA

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7729 4626

Website: http://www.yelothai.com

Tags: thai, outside tables, cocktails

Bar Yelo in Shoreditch is not my idea of a good time. On the night I was there, the music was far too loud and the toilets disgusting.

Maybe I should have ordered a take away as the food wasn't bad, but based on my experience I don't think I'll be going back.
Bar Yelo in Shoreditch is not my idea of a good time. On the night I was there, the music was far too loud and the toilets disgusting.

Maybe I should have ordered a take away as the food wasn't bad, but based on my experience I don't think I'll be going back.

Puji Puji - Puji Puji by terryturbojr

terryturbojr — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:19:46 +0000

Review by terryturbojr

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 07501 721 106

Tags: malaysian, cheap eat

I've travelled around Malaysia quite a bit over the last few years and so was excited when this place opened just around the corner from my flat.

The first meal we ate there was a take away and we were very impressed: melt in the mouth rendang, flaky roti canai and great flame cooked satay - all of it tasting as it had in Malaysia.

Second time around we ate in though and weren't so impressed. Service was a bit slow, our beef rendang went to the table next door whilst we got their chicken (we got it back), the rice dish was the wrong one and the chicken satay had a couple that weren't cooked enough. Service and raw chicken aside the food was just as good as the first time so was a shame it had been spoilt by other bits.

The food is very good though so I'd recommend giving it a go if you're in the area, it's got the added bonus of being reasonably cheap and allowing you to bring your own alcohol.

One thing to bear in mind is it's cash only.

I've travelled around Malaysia quite a bit over the last few years and so was excited when this place opened just around the corner from my flat.

The first meal we ate there was a take away and we were very impressed: melt in the mouth rendang, flaky roti canai and great flame cooked satay - all of it tasting as it had in Malaysia.

Second time around we ate in though and weren't so impressed. Service was a bit slow, our beef rendang went to the table next door whilst we got their chicken (we got it back), the rice dish was the wrong one and the chicken satay had a couple that weren't cooked enough. Service and raw chicken aside the food was just as good as the first time so was a shame it had been spoilt by other bits.

The food is very good though so I'd recommend giving it a go if you're in the area, it's got the added bonus of being reasonably cheap and allowing you to bring your own alcohol.

One thing to bear in mind is it's cash only.

Tbilisi - Not quite right by neilgrayshon

neilgrayshon — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 11:27:42 +0000

Review by neilgrayshon

Rating: 2.00

Phone: 020 7607 2536

Tags: georgian, lively, romantic

Food good, atmosphere morgue like.Food good, atmosphere morgue like.

Almeida Wine Bar & Restaurant - Almeida, 16 October 2008 by Food_Snob

Food_Snob — Mon, 20 Oct 2008 05:08:51 +0000

Review by Food_Snob

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7354 4777

Website: www.almeida-restaurant.co.uk

Tags: french, good value, romantic

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/16/almeida-london/

Text-only Critique:

October 13th-19th is chocolate week. Paul A. Young is a chocolatier. Alan Jones is a chef. Together, they have created a special chocolate menu at Almeida restaurant. I love chocolate. I will eat this chocolate menu.

Logical, succinct and simple, my sentences have never been so short, nor so selfish. And it only gets worse. This is probably also my most indulgent, most useless greedy adventure yet: this carte chocolat is only on for one week - chocolate week (surprise, surprise). But chocolate week was last week.

Upper Street, Islington, dating from at least the 12th century, has had a long if not spectacular history. It has always been part of one of Englandâ¬"s greatest roads - the Great North Road, successor to the Roman Ermine Road and itself precursor to the present A1 - and also a stopping place for hungry farmers from the surrounding fertile fields en route to the Royal Agricultural Hall. It was this thoroughfare of tradesman that first attracted many pubs and inns to the area and although Islington has since become a trendy, modern North London enclave, it is still characterised by the extensive array of eateries that exist there.

Today, 580 yards of high street gastro heaven separate two more-ambitious foodie establishments: Almeida, part of the 20-restaurant-strong D&D chain (formerly Terence Conranâ¬"s eating-empire), and the original Paul A. Youngâ¬"s Fine Chocolates Camden Passage boutique.

Almeida is the newly refurbished French restaurant serving contemporary Bourgeois cuisine. Chef Alan Jones, who joined in June 2007 after stints at Foliage and as sous chef at Bath-based Relais & Chateaux hotel, Lucknam Park (1*), has introduced a more refined and lighter menu which focuses on using seasonal produce simply; â¬Ümy food is very fresh and inspired by the seasons, using clean flavours and combining colour and texture.â¬"

Yorkshire man, Young, after attending Durham and Leeds Metropolitan Universities, spent his early career working in some of Northern Englandâ¬"s best restaurants before being poached by Marco Pierre White (how does this fellow get his name into every other review I write?). Starting as a pastry chef at The Criterion Brasserie, then Titanic, he finally began earning recognition as Head Pastry Chef at Quo Vadis. Then, in a change of direction he became a desserts consultant for M&S and Sainsburyâ¬"s, during which time the success of a promotion he had made some chocolates for inspired him to go coco fulltime. One can now find him in a Georgian house in Islington crafting and creating confection in the basement; selling them on the ground floor; and living on the first.

The duo share more than just a postcode though; besides the fact that Young is an Almeida regular and that he and Jones have become friends, the two men share a common past, having both at some time worked under Marco Pierre White. Together, they have spent the last six months testing and tasting different coco combinations, to construct a seven course seasonal chocolate carte. With Jonesâ¬" expressed intention â¬Üto show people that chocolate is a lot more than just a dessert component; it has a complexity and depth of flavour that enhances a menu at every turn,â¬" and Youngâ¬"s bold assertion that â¬Üthereâ¬"s nothing you cannot mix with chocolate,â¬" one is sure to expect something special.

It was Wednesday afternoon I first saw the Menuâ¬"s advertisement on London Eating and my interest was immediately piqued, I admit, more by the mention of Youngâ¬"s chocolates than Almeidaâ¬"s association; in my more mischievous moments, I have often made the short stroll to the chocolatierâ¬"s tiny Royal Exchange outpost to indulge in some of his fine handmade choc, especially, the award-winning salted caramel truffles and yummy brownies. D&D restaurants, on the other hand, are an unknown quantity to me. Anyway, it was a one-off occasion and good chocolate is worth the riskâ¬¦

Opposite the Almeida Theatre, upon the eponymous side street is the eponymous eatery. Exposed corn-coloured brickwork encloses tall, white-latticed windows and the restaurantâ¬"s arched entrance. The inside space is considerable, 98 cover considerable. One side of the vast room is lined by felt burgundy banquette, the opposite side by a bar, where one hundred wineglasses dangle upside down in flawless formation. Across from the large glass front that allows the lovely sunlight in is a semi-open kitchen from which copper pots glisten and stainless steel saucepans shine. The oak dining room floor is partially covered by slate gray carpet and broken up by columns of Carolina blue. The centre space is filled with circle linen-covered tables, whilst bare, light-oak, square ones skirt the long settee; bentwood chairs abut both. Wooden salt and pepper shakers, plain glassware and cutlery and simple, white custom Conran crockery adorns tabletops. The openness is busied by hustle and bustle from the kitchen and diner; the room has the relaxed class of a classic bistro.

Amuse Bouche: Butternut squash veloutÃ©, chocolate and cumin stirrer. A cup of amber butternut squash soup was served with a baton of 72% Venezuelan chocolate studded with toasted cumin seeds. Hot, creamy and smooth, the squash set free a subtle, sweet aftertaste whilst the spiceâ¬"s earthy sharpness and natural sourness of Venezuelan choc worked well together. When the cumin-cocoa club was stirred through, little by little, as instructed, the seedâ¬"s warmth and bitterness balanced nicely with the sweeter soup, but in the end, the blend was a little too rich.

Les Pains: Focaccia, brown, poppy seed and baguette. The baguette was crackly crisp; brown buns were thick, wholesome and made great sauce soppers; focaccia was fluffy and pleasantly greaseless; whilst, my preference, poppy, was so soft with a crunchy seedy crust. Rock salt sprinkled English butter accompanied. Although not baked onsite, the bread is at least delivered daily from the French Bakery and served, generally, warm.

EntrÃ©e: Salad of smoked eel, oysters and watercress, chocolate vinaigrette. A circular conga line of carved eel, shucked oysters and potato pieces came garnished with watercress leaf and syrupy spirals of chocolate vinaigrette. Both bivalves and fish were surprisingly mild with soft baked potato adding substance. The fresh, peppery cress was a good counterpoint to the briny seafood whilst the balsamic-sherry vinegar cut through the oily eel. The 64% Dominican chocolate was another gentle addition, whose nutty-smokiness linked the different elements nicely.

Plat Principal 1: Brill with hazelnut and cocoa crust, fricassee of wild mushrooms. Upon a verdant island of spinach, surrounded by a sea of creamy golden brown girolle and cÃ¨pe fricassee, a pan fried fillet of brill, encrusted with hazelnut, spinach and Venezuelan cracked cocoa nibs, sat. The fish was cooked delicately whilst the meaty mushrooms brought with them different texture, floating in a flavourful, earthy consommÃ©. The spinach was well prepared and though not crunchy, had nice bite. The veggy-nutty-coco coating was a splendid and interesting addition that complemented the whole dish: hazelnuts, a natural partner to chocolate enhanced the nuttiness of the mushrooms; a hint of choc came through the cocoa nibs - roasted cocoa beans separated from their husks and broken into small bits - that picked up on the fishâ¬"s soft sweetness whilst adding crunch; and the spinach provided warm mushiness.

â¬ÜPalate Refresherâ¬": Cucumber and lime chocolate. Next, â¬Üto refresh and invigorateâ¬" came a pair of truffles or more precisely, Venezuelan 70% Amedei chuao blended in water-based ganache with fresh cucumber and lime zest. The fruity and citrusy Amedei chocolate, which synchronised with its citrus lime contents, was pleasingly light with a clean, dry finish. However, the cucumber was rather overpowered by the lime.

Plat Principal 2: Pot roast Barbary duck, candied carrots, Madeira and chocolate jus. Delightfully dark pink Barbary duck slices were delivered fanned over Savoy cabbage and candied carrots; alongside a baked fondant potato carrying confit duck breast roll; and mizzled with Madeira and chocolate gravy. Initially, the cabbage-carrot commixture came with lardons of pancetta, which also cased the confit; only after tucking into the duck did I notice this and upon confirming the porkâ¬"s presence, the dish was immediately whisked away and a brand new one soon arrived. On both occasions the delicious duck, roasted in sealed pot, was tender and full-flavoured; the peppered flesh was coated with just enough succulent fat to moisten it without making one feel guilty. The vegetables, creamed with crÃ¨me fraiche, which countered the candied carrot, consisted also of crunchy cabbage; and smooth potato boasted the richest, most sensuous, slow-cooked duck breast. The Madeira, mixed with 66% Amedei Toscano black - a versatile chocolate tasting of subtle tobacco, liquorice with caramelised sweetness and definite, aromatic aftertaste - sumptuously super-glued all the elements together. This was warm, hearty and fulfilling food.

Pre-Dessert: Milk and white Chocolate ice cream. This pre-dessert differed from standard sorbet: a multi-layered milk and white chocolate shot topped with hundreds-and-thousands arrived accompanied by a pickâ¬"n'mix platter of vanilla and strawberry marshmallow, roasted almond flakes, cocoa nibs and tiny dies of truffle: essentially a tongue-in-cheek, make-your-own sundae. The Ecuadorian 55% pure Arriba bean (from small producer Lourdes Delgado, exclusively for Paul A. Young) and 35% cocoa butter white chocolate was well balanced, mildly bitter and sweet in turn. The hundreds-and-thousands and almonds added crunch, as did the cocoa nibs - sometimes described as the essence of chocolate - which imparted a delicate, unsweetened touch of choc. The marshmallow was nice and light, whilst the truffles, gorgeous; melting in the mouth, airy and with an unusual grainy, crumbly consistency.

Dessert 1: Dark chocolate, prune and Armagnac. A simply presented trio of coco fondant; Armagnac-soaked, pitted prune festooned with julienne orange zest; and Armagnac ice cream atop an almond-hazelnut crumb base came with an artistic application of dark chocolate. The prune was sticky and serious; the fabulous fondant, the best example I have had in a long, long time: warm, crispy crust of moist, rich sponge served to suppress a lush lake of hot, liquid cocoa that ran like molten magma. The cool ice cream supplied a smooth, refreshing, real fruity spirit slap without which it would not have been able to stand up to the unusually yet not unpleasantly strong 68% Ghanaian dark coco.

Dessert 2: Passion fruit soufflÃ©, yoghurt sorbet. So impressive was the first dessert, I was worried that any that followed would undoubtedly disappoint; however after some stern supplication from my serveur, Giancarlo, I could not snub the offer of a sugar-dusted, rustic passion fruit soufflÃ© and liberal scoop of yoghurt sorbet. Lighter-than-air, I was able to almost breathe in the treat, but contrary to its good texture, I found the passion fruitâ¬"s tart-sweetness quite overpowered by the sour sorbet.

Chocolat chaud et Petit Fours: Hot ganache. To complete this celebration of chocolate came strong and spicy hot chocolate made with spring water and 85% African cocoa and a pinch of black cardamom. The thick brew was lovely and rich, thoroughly warming oneâ¬"s cockles. In addition, petit fours of the same choc were crafted three ways - thins, ganache and crÃ¨me demi-truffle. These were well made with intense, tannic African chocolate and floral, smoky flavour from the spice.

First, a quick comment on the service is warranted. It was very friendly, warm and thoughtful. The aforesaid Giancarlo was talkative, attentive and clearly enjoyed his job. He possessed a good knowledge of the food and was willing to go into as much detail as was desired. After learning that the soufflÃ©, a personal favourite of his, did not match the fondant, he even offered not to charge me for it. The fussiness with which the duck dish was replaced was also notable.

As regards the food, as mentioned already, I was unsure what to expect. I am glad to say though, I was pleasantly surprised: the cooking was difficult to fault; the produce, good quality; and presentation, professional. One could maybe make the comment that there is an absence of some of the finer ingredients of haute cuisine, but that is not what Almeida is trying to be and at the prices charged, there can be no complaint. Plus, it is not as if any corners are carelessly cut: brill is a good alternative to turbot, Maldon oysters can be obtained fresher than Cancale ones, etc. I also felt that the special menu itself was successful; Jones and Youngâ¬"s aim to show how coco â¬Üis such a versatile and creative ingredientâ¬" definitely came off. Never did I get the impression that chocolate was forced upon or thrown onto a plate, instead it was worked in gently, softly into each course in a carefully considered and fully thought-out manner. The chocolate was not the dishâ¬"s focus and I do not think it was ever meant to be; my impression was that it was to be seen as any other element and not designed to distract or shock, but simply enhance the accompanying parts. After all, let us not forget, as if Young would let us, â¬Üchocolate is supposed to be fun and quite naughty.â¬" This meal proved just that and more; good food with an interesting twist.

In post-meal conversation, Chef Jones himself admitted, â¬ÜIâ¬"m not trying to change the world.â¬" Maybe not Alan, but you have made it a little sweeter.

Almeida:
30 Almeida Street, Islington, N1 1AD
tel: 020 7354 4777
nearest tube: Angel, Highbury & Islington
www.almeida-restaurant.co.uk

Paul A. Young:
33 Camden Passage, Islington, N1 8EA
tel. 020 7424 5750
nearest tube: Angel
www.paulayoung.co.uk
Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/16/almeida-london/

Text-only Critique:

October 13th-19th is chocolate week. Paul A. Young is a chocolatier. Alan Jones is a chef. Together, they have created a special chocolate menu at Almeida restaurant. I love chocolate. I will eat this chocolate menu.

Logical, succinct and simple, my sentences have never been so short, nor so selfish. And it only gets worse. This is probably also my most indulgent, most useless greedy adventure yet: this carte chocolat is only on for one week - chocolate week (surprise, surprise). But chocolate week was last week.

Upper Street, Islington, dating from at least the 12th century, has had a long if not spectacular history. It has always been part of one of Englandâ¬"s greatest roads - the Great North Road, successor to the Roman Ermine Road and itself precursor to the present A1 - and also a stopping place for hungry farmers from the surrounding fertile fields en route to the Royal Agricultural Hall. It was this thoroughfare of tradesman that first attracted many pubs and inns to the area and although Islington has since become a trendy, modern North London enclave, it is still characterised by the extensive array of eateries that exist there.

Today, 580 yards of high street gastro heaven separate two more-ambitious foodie establishments: Almeida, part of the 20-restaurant-strong D&D chain (formerly Terence Conranâ¬"s eating-empire), and the original Paul A. Youngâ¬"s Fine Chocolates Camden Passage boutique.

Almeida is the newly refurbished French restaurant serving contemporary Bourgeois cuisine. Chef Alan Jones, who joined in June 2007 after stints at Foliage and as sous chef at Bath-based Relais & Chateaux hotel, Lucknam Park (1*), has introduced a more refined and lighter menu which focuses on using seasonal produce simply; â¬Ümy food is very fresh and inspired by the seasons, using clean flavours and combining colour and texture.â¬"

Yorkshire man, Young, after attending Durham and Leeds Metropolitan Universities, spent his early career working in some of Northern Englandâ¬"s best restaurants before being poached by Marco Pierre White (how does this fellow get his name into every other review I write?). Starting as a pastry chef at The Criterion Brasserie, then Titanic, he finally began earning recognition as Head Pastry Chef at Quo Vadis. Then, in a change of direction he became a desserts consultant for M&S and Sainsburyâ¬"s, during which time the success of a promotion he had made some chocolates for inspired him to go coco fulltime. One can now find him in a Georgian house in Islington crafting and creating confection in the basement; selling them on the ground floor; and living on the first.

The duo share more than just a postcode though; besides the fact that Young is an Almeida regular and that he and Jones have become friends, the two men share a common past, having both at some time worked under Marco Pierre White. Together, they have spent the last six months testing and tasting different coco combinations, to construct a seven course seasonal chocolate carte. With Jonesâ¬" expressed intention â¬Üto show people that chocolate is a lot more than just a dessert component; it has a complexity and depth of flavour that enhances a menu at every turn,â¬" and Youngâ¬"s bold assertion that â¬Üthereâ¬"s nothing you cannot mix with chocolate,â¬" one is sure to expect something special.

It was Wednesday afternoon I first saw the Menuâ¬"s advertisement on London Eating and my interest was immediately piqued, I admit, more by the mention of Youngâ¬"s chocolates than Almeidaâ¬"s association; in my more mischievous moments, I have often made the short stroll to the chocolatierâ¬"s tiny Royal Exchange outpost to indulge in some of his fine handmade choc, especially, the award-winning salted caramel truffles and yummy brownies. D&D restaurants, on the other hand, are an unknown quantity to me. Anyway, it was a one-off occasion and good chocolate is worth the riskâ¬¦

Opposite the Almeida Theatre, upon the eponymous side street is the eponymous eatery. Exposed corn-coloured brickwork encloses tall, white-latticed windows and the restaurantâ¬"s arched entrance. The inside space is considerable, 98 cover considerable. One side of the vast room is lined by felt burgundy banquette, the opposite side by a bar, where one hundred wineglasses dangle upside down in flawless formation. Across from the large glass front that allows the lovely sunlight in is a semi-open kitchen from which copper pots glisten and stainless steel saucepans shine. The oak dining room floor is partially covered by slate gray carpet and broken up by columns of Carolina blue. The centre space is filled with circle linen-covered tables, whilst bare, light-oak, square ones skirt the long settee; bentwood chairs abut both. Wooden salt and pepper shakers, plain glassware and cutlery and simple, white custom Conran crockery adorns tabletops. The openness is busied by hustle and bustle from the kitchen and diner; the room has the relaxed class of a classic bistro.

Amuse Bouche: Butternut squash veloutÃ©, chocolate and cumin stirrer. A cup of amber butternut squash soup was served with a baton of 72% Venezuelan chocolate studded with toasted cumin seeds. Hot, creamy and smooth, the squash set free a subtle, sweet aftertaste whilst the spiceâ¬"s earthy sharpness and natural sourness of Venezuelan choc worked well together. When the cumin-cocoa club was stirred through, little by little, as instructed, the seedâ¬"s warmth and bitterness balanced nicely with the sweeter soup, but in the end, the blend was a little too rich.

Les Pains: Focaccia, brown, poppy seed and baguette. The baguette was crackly crisp; brown buns were thick, wholesome and made great sauce soppers; focaccia was fluffy and pleasantly greaseless; whilst, my preference, poppy, was so soft with a crunchy seedy crust. Rock salt sprinkled English butter accompanied. Although not baked onsite, the bread is at least delivered daily from the French Bakery and served, generally, warm.

EntrÃ©e: Salad of smoked eel, oysters and watercress, chocolate vinaigrette. A circular conga line of carved eel, shucked oysters and potato pieces came garnished with watercress leaf and syrupy spirals of chocolate vinaigrette. Both bivalves and fish were surprisingly mild with soft baked potato adding substance. The fresh, peppery cress was a good counterpoint to the briny seafood whilst the balsamic-sherry vinegar cut through the oily eel. The 64% Dominican chocolate was another gentle addition, whose nutty-smokiness linked the different elements nicely.

Plat Principal 1: Brill with hazelnut and cocoa crust, fricassee of wild mushrooms. Upon a verdant island of spinach, surrounded by a sea of creamy golden brown girolle and cÃ¨pe fricassee, a pan fried fillet of brill, encrusted with hazelnut, spinach and Venezuelan cracked cocoa nibs, sat. The fish was cooked delicately whilst the meaty mushrooms brought with them different texture, floating in a flavourful, earthy consommÃ©. The spinach was well prepared and though not crunchy, had nice bite. The veggy-nutty-coco coating was a splendid and interesting addition that complemented the whole dish: hazelnuts, a natural partner to chocolate enhanced the nuttiness of the mushrooms; a hint of choc came through the cocoa nibs - roasted cocoa beans separated from their husks and broken into small bits - that picked up on the fishâ¬"s soft sweetness whilst adding crunch; and the spinach provided warm mushiness.

â¬ÜPalate Refresherâ¬": Cucumber and lime chocolate. Next, â¬Üto refresh and invigorateâ¬" came a pair of truffles or more precisely, Venezuelan 70% Amedei chuao blended in water-based ganache with fresh cucumber and lime zest. The fruity and citrusy Amedei chocolate, which synchronised with its citrus lime contents, was pleasingly light with a clean, dry finish. However, the cucumber was rather overpowered by the lime.

Plat Principal 2: Pot roast Barbary duck, candied carrots, Madeira and chocolate jus. Delightfully dark pink Barbary duck slices were delivered fanned over Savoy cabbage and candied carrots; alongside a baked fondant potato carrying confit duck breast roll; and mizzled with Madeira and chocolate gravy. Initially, the cabbage-carrot commixture came with lardons of pancetta, which also cased the confit; only after tucking into the duck did I notice this and upon confirming the porkâ¬"s presence, the dish was immediately whisked away and a brand new one soon arrived. On both occasions the delicious duck, roasted in sealed pot, was tender and full-flavoured; the peppered flesh was coated with just enough succulent fat to moisten it without making one feel guilty. The vegetables, creamed with crÃ¨me fraiche, which countered the candied carrot, consisted also of crunchy cabbage; and smooth potato boasted the richest, most sensuous, slow-cooked duck breast. The Madeira, mixed with 66% Amedei Toscano black - a versatile chocolate tasting of subtle tobacco, liquorice with caramelised sweetness and definite, aromatic aftertaste - sumptuously super-glued all the elements together. This was warm, hearty and fulfilling food.

Pre-Dessert: Milk and white Chocolate ice cream. This pre-dessert differed from standard sorbet: a multi-layered milk and white chocolate shot topped with hundreds-and-thousands arrived accompanied by a pickâ¬"n'mix platter of vanilla and strawberry marshmallow, roasted almond flakes, cocoa nibs and tiny dies of truffle: essentially a tongue-in-cheek, make-your-own sundae. The Ecuadorian 55% pure Arriba bean (from small producer Lourdes Delgado, exclusively for Paul A. Young) and 35% cocoa butter white chocolate was well balanced, mildly bitter and sweet in turn. The hundreds-and-thousands and almonds added crunch, as did the cocoa nibs - sometimes described as the essence of chocolate - which imparted a delicate, unsweetened touch of choc. The marshmallow was nice and light, whilst the truffles, gorgeous; melting in the mouth, airy and with an unusual grainy, crumbly consistency.

Dessert 1: Dark chocolate, prune and Armagnac. A simply presented trio of coco fondant; Armagnac-soaked, pitted prune festooned with julienne orange zest; and Armagnac ice cream atop an almond-hazelnut crumb base came with an artistic application of dark chocolate. The prune was sticky and serious; the fabulous fondant, the best example I have had in a long, long time: warm, crispy crust of moist, rich sponge served to suppress a lush lake of hot, liquid cocoa that ran like molten magma. The cool ice cream supplied a smooth, refreshing, real fruity spirit slap without which it would not have been able to stand up to the unusually yet not unpleasantly strong 68% Ghanaian dark coco.

Dessert 2: Passion fruit soufflÃ©, yoghurt sorbet. So impressive was the first dessert, I was worried that any that followed would undoubtedly disappoint; however after some stern supplication from my serveur, Giancarlo, I could not snub the offer of a sugar-dusted, rustic passion fruit soufflÃ© and liberal scoop of yoghurt sorbet. Lighter-than-air, I was able to almost breathe in the treat, but contrary to its good texture, I found the passion fruitâ¬"s tart-sweetness quite overpowered by the sour sorbet.

Chocolat chaud et Petit Fours: Hot ganache. To complete this celebration of chocolate came strong and spicy hot chocolate made with spring water and 85% African cocoa and a pinch of black cardamom. The thick brew was lovely and rich, thoroughly warming oneâ¬"s cockles. In addition, petit fours of the same choc were crafted three ways - thins, ganache and crÃ¨me demi-truffle. These were well made with intense, tannic African chocolate and floral, smoky flavour from the spice.

First, a quick comment on the service is warranted. It was very friendly, warm and thoughtful. The aforesaid Giancarlo was talkative, attentive and clearly enjoyed his job. He possessed a good knowledge of the food and was willing to go into as much detail as was desired. After learning that the soufflÃ©, a personal favourite of his, did not match the fondant, he even offered not to charge me for it. The fussiness with which the duck dish was replaced was also notable.

As regards the food, as mentioned already, I was unsure what to expect. I am glad to say though, I was pleasantly surprised: the cooking was difficult to fault; the produce, good quality; and presentation, professional. One could maybe make the comment that there is an absence of some of the finer ingredients of haute cuisine, but that is not what Almeida is trying to be and at the prices charged, there can be no complaint. Plus, it is not as if any corners are carelessly cut: brill is a good alternative to turbot, Maldon oysters can be obtained fresher than Cancale ones, etc. I also felt that the special menu itself was successful; Jones and Youngâ¬"s aim to show how coco â¬Üis such a versatile and creative ingredientâ¬" definitely came off. Never did I get the impression that chocolate was forced upon or thrown onto a plate, instead it was worked in gently, softly into each course in a carefully considered and fully thought-out manner. The chocolate was not the dishâ¬"s focus and I do not think it was ever meant to be; my impression was that it was to be seen as any other element and not designed to distract or shock, but simply enhance the accompanying parts. After all, let us not forget, as if Young would let us, â¬Üchocolate is supposed to be fun and quite naughty.â¬" This meal proved just that and more; good food with an interesting twist.

In post-meal conversation, Chef Jones himself admitted, â¬ÜIâ¬"m not trying to change the world.â¬" Maybe not Alan, but you have made it a little sweeter.

Almeida:
30 Almeida Street, Islington, N1 1AD
tel: 020 7354 4777
nearest tube: Angel, Highbury & Islington
www.almeida-restaurant.co.uk

Paul A. Young:
33 Camden Passage, Islington, N1 8EA
tel. 020 7424 5750
nearest tube: Angel
www.paulayoung.co.uk

Kika - Sunny side up by ben1982

ben1982 — Thu, 25 Sep 2008 17:09:37 +0000

Review by ben1982

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7288 2439

Tags: vegetarian dishes, philippine

A beautiful garden provides a stunning setting for a range of organic breakfast offerings - welsh rarebit served with poached egg; the organic beans; nutty toast with organic jams are all touches that elevate this above other nearby places. You do pay substantially for the privilege but if it is a sunny day, it is definitely worth the expense...A beautiful garden provides a stunning setting for a range of organic breakfast offerings - welsh rarebit served with poached egg; the organic beans; nutty toast with organic jams are all touches that elevate this above other nearby places. You do pay substantially for the privilege but if it is a sunny day, it is definitely worth the expense...

Med Kitchen - Med Kitchen Restaurant by ludster

ludster — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 19:04:28 +0000

Review by ludster

Rating: 4.00Pleasant Decor, comfortable/relaxed atomosphere.
Serving staff are okay (but should smile a little bit more often)
The Service is good, the time between meals was good(although it was a Monday evening when I ate there so I couldn't comment what it's like on a 'really' busy night??)
The food was good (quite a varied Menu, so something for everybody!), a shared 'Greek Style' Starter was very nice, For Main I had Grill Sea Bass which was lovely (and I'd recommend the Balsamic Grilled Veg!!), my friend has Swordfish which he thought was also good.
Price wise - about average, so quite good for the area.
Would I return, yes I would.Pleasant Decor, comfortable/relaxed atomosphere.
Serving staff are okay (but should smile a little bit more often)
The Service is good, the time between meals was good(although it was a Monday evening when I ate there so I couldn't comment what it's like on a 'really' busy night??)
The food was good (quite a varied Menu, so something for everybody!), a shared 'Greek Style' Starter was very nice, For Main I had Grill Sea Bass which was lovely (and I'd recommend the Balsamic Grilled Veg!!), my friend has Swordfish which he thought was also good.
Price wise - about average, so quite good for the area.
Would I return, yes I would.

Zigne House - by michael_k

michael_k — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 11:29:59 +0000

Review by michael_k

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 72267418

very nice eritrean restaurant with great food at great prices. try the buffet -it's really nice.very nice eritrean restaurant with great food at great prices. try the buffet -it's really nice.

Fish Central - Fab Fish Central by jammiedodger

jammiedodger — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:35:52 +0000

Review by jammiedodger

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7253 4970

Website: http://www.fishcentral.co.uk/

Tags: seafood, lively, takeaway

You'll receive a warm welcome and enjoy wonderful food at this fantastic family restaurant that has been here since the 1960s. A favourite among locals, it attracts regular repeat visits with its personal take on traditional 'fish and chips' (grilled or fried and cooked to perfection) as well as more adventurous cuisine and daily specials such as monkfish and scallops. There's plenty to attract the non-fish-eaters too. Tucked away between Barbican and Angel it's hard to stumble upon but worth seeking out.

It boasts a cool, crisp interior (although the chairs are not very luxurious) and a light, airy glass frontage that opens in summer months for almost al-fresco dining.

The food is great quality, all freshly prepared and the prices are reasonable. And the restaurant thankfully lacks the pretentions of so many other fish restaurants in the capital.You'll receive a warm welcome and enjoy wonderful food at this fantastic family restaurant that has been here since the 1960s. A favourite among locals, it attracts regular repeat visits with its personal take on traditional 'fish and chips' (grilled or fried and cooked to perfection) as well as more adventurous cuisine and daily specials such as monkfish and scallops. There's plenty to attract the non-fish-eaters too. Tucked away between Barbican and Angel it's hard to stumble upon but worth seeking out.

It boasts a cool, crisp interior (although the chairs are not very luxurious) and a light, airy glass frontage that opens in summer months for almost al-fresco dining.

The food is great quality, all freshly prepared and the prices are reasonable. And the restaurant thankfully lacks the pretentions of so many other fish restaurants in the capital.

Fredericks - Business dining... by foodbymark

foodbymark — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:14:00 +0000

Review by foodbymark

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7359 2888

Website: www.fredericks.co.uk

Tags: smoking, business, al fresco

Frederick's is a bar and restaurant slightly hidden away in Camden Passage and has long established a reputation of delivering some of the best food in Islington serving up Modern European cuisine. The main area is through the back and is a large airy room with high vaulted glass ceiling. The atmosphere is perfect for business lunches and dinners.

As a quick trip we only ordered mains with sides. Dishes ordered included the Roasted cod, creamed leeks, pancetta & mash potato and Pan-fried salmon with scallops, cauliflower purÃ©e & broad bean dressing. Whilst all the dishes were beautifully prepared and balanced the service was a let down. Our sides, saute potatoes, hand cut chips and spinach and arrived at different times and the chips did not even end up coming as we had to leave after an hour and fiften minutes. The staff were friendly but despite it not being that busy, it was far too chaotic and a let down.

I feel that tonight was probably not the best night, although I have read somewhat often complaints of poor service at Frederick's. The food however was highly enjoyable and this a good location in Islington to entertain clients. 3 and a 1/2 stars!Frederick's is a bar and restaurant slightly hidden away in Camden Passage and has long established a reputation of delivering some of the best food in Islington serving up Modern European cuisine. The main area is through the back and is a large airy room with high vaulted glass ceiling. The atmosphere is perfect for business lunches and dinners.

As a quick trip we only ordered mains with sides. Dishes ordered included the Roasted cod, creamed leeks, pancetta & mash potato and Pan-fried salmon with scallops, cauliflower purÃ©e & broad bean dressing. Whilst all the dishes were beautifully prepared and balanced the service was a let down. Our sides, saute potatoes, hand cut chips and spinach and arrived at different times and the chips did not even end up coming as we had to leave after an hour and fiften minutes. The staff were friendly but despite it not being that busy, it was far too chaotic and a let down.

I feel that tonight was probably not the best night, although I have read somewhat often complaints of poor service at Frederick's. The food however was highly enjoyable and this a good location in Islington to entertain clients. 3 and a 1/2 stars!

Santore - Pizza on Exmouth Market by sue

sue — Sat, 13 Sep 2008 19:11:17 +0000

Review by sue

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7812 1488

Tags: italian, family & home feel, good value

Exmouth Market is a happening place on a weekday lunch time, with market stalls and numerous restaurants and cafes catering to hungry office workers. Santore is an Italian restaurant on this lively strip, and I visited one day for lunch with my work mates.

The restaurant has a relaxed feel, with smiling staff and a large menu. My colleagues all opted to order from the special 2 course lunch menu, whilst I, always the trouble maker, selected from the main menu.

I had the Rucola pizza, which had Parma ham, rocket and parmesan cheese. It was enjoyable, with generous toppings, though the middle was a but soggy. Everyone else seemed to enjoy their choices, and some people continued on to dessert too. I may have sampled the bosses giant serve of Tiramisu (apparently the waitress has a soft spot for him), which was a little too cream-focussed for my liking.Exmouth Market is a happening place on a weekday lunch time, with market stalls and numerous restaurants and cafes catering to hungry office workers. Santore is an Italian restaurant on this lively strip, and I visited one day for lunch with my work mates.

The restaurant has a relaxed feel, with smiling staff and a large menu. My colleagues all opted to order from the special 2 course lunch menu, whilst I, always the trouble maker, selected from the main menu.

I had the Rucola pizza, which had Parma ham, rocket and parmesan cheese. It was enjoyable, with generous toppings, though the middle was a but soggy. Everyone else seemed to enjoy their choices, and some people continued on to dessert too. I may have sampled the bosses giant serve of Tiramisu (apparently the waitress has a soft spot for him), which was a little too cream-focussed for my liking.

Tortilla - What most Americans expect a burrito to taste like by opticnoodle

opticnoodle — Sat, 13 Sep 2008 15:15:54 +0000

Review by opticnoodle

Rating: 4.00

Website: www.tortilla.co.uk

Tags: lively, mexican, good value

A brief agreement with allolex's review.

My title about sums it up. I've had some good burritos in London (notably El Panzon in Brixton) but Tortilla is the only place I've been to in London where the taste and ingredients in the burrito were what I would expect to receive in an American burrito joint. I think it's important to make this distinction since the USA has so co-opted Mexican food and there's a proliferation of wrap/burrito joints which have cropped up across the country (especially in college towns) that have changed our expectation of what a burrito should taste like. Probably to the dis-taste of many Americans who are fans of their regional variation on mexican food.

My impression was also confirmed by the fact that just about everyone in the place was American!A brief agreement with allolex's review.

My title about sums it up. I've had some good burritos in London (notably El Panzon in Brixton) but Tortilla is the only place I've been to in London where the taste and ingredients in the burrito were what I would expect to receive in an American burrito joint. I think it's important to make this distinction since the USA has so co-opted Mexican food and there's a proliferation of wrap/burrito joints which have cropped up across the country (especially in college towns) that have changed our expectation of what a burrito should taste like. Probably to the dis-taste of many Americans who are fans of their regional variation on mexican food.

My impression was also confirmed by the fact that just about everyone in the place was American!

Dollar Grills & Martinis - Porn Stars welcome! by VickieMac

VickieMac — Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:41:30 +0000

Review by VickieMac

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7278 0077

Tags: american, cocktails, expensive

I went here early on a Saturday evening for a special occasion meal and I was overwhelmed. First, it's beautiful inside. The upstairs has gorgeous lighting and the seats were super comfy. The downstairs is very plush and would be a great spot for a cocktail on a date. It has little alcoves that offer the right amount of intimacy for a public place. ;o)

But it wasn't the decor the sold me, it was the cocktails - A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! I had the pleasure of enjoying (among others) the Porn Star Martini and to this day have not found a drink I enjoyed more than this one. I take great pleasure in telling people that this is my favourite drink!

We also had food and although at the time I thoroughly enjoyed my fish soup thingy, it was only good enough to be remembered as a fish soup thingy. The cocktails simply stole the show.

I would definitely go here again and have but only for drinks. I'll have to try the burgers next time!I went here early on a Saturday evening for a special occasion meal and I was overwhelmed. First, it's beautiful inside. The upstairs has gorgeous lighting and the seats were super comfy. The downstairs is very plush and would be a great spot for a cocktail on a date. It has little alcoves that offer the right amount of intimacy for a public place. ;o)

But it wasn't the decor the sold me, it was the cocktails - A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! I had the pleasure of enjoying (among others) the Porn Star Martini and to this day have not found a drink I enjoyed more than this one. I take great pleasure in telling people that this is my favourite drink!

We also had food and although at the time I thoroughly enjoyed my fish soup thingy, it was only good enough to be remembered as a fish soup thingy. The cocktails simply stole the show.

I would definitely go here again and have but only for drinks. I'll have to try the burgers next time!

Hoxton Apprentice - Different league to 15 by joslyoung

joslyoung — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:29:17 +0000

Review by joslyoung

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7749 2828

Website: http://www.hoxtonapprentice.com

Tags: good value, british, business

They say that this place is 'like' Jamie Oliver's 15, on the grounds that it also employs unemployed youngsters and trains them in professional kitchens. But as far as I'm concerned, that's where the similarity ends.
Unlike Jamie's place nearby, the Hoxton Apprentice is unpretentious (it doesn't charge Â£26 a plate for food described variously as 'Pucka' and 'Wicked' on the menu, for example). The food varies each week, and can include anything from basic and retro, like chicken kiev and chips (very nice it was too) to a more inspired Osso Bucco for supper. The service can be a little patchy, but one suspects that might be because the waiting staff are not longstanding professionals any more than are the staff in the kitchen, but they're unfailingly friendly so you forgive them. Prices are competitive for the area and good for the quality of food received. All round worth a visit...They say that this place is 'like' Jamie Oliver's 15, on the grounds that it also employs unemployed youngsters and trains them in professional kitchens. But as far as I'm concerned, that's where the similarity ends.
Unlike Jamie's place nearby, the Hoxton Apprentice is unpretentious (it doesn't charge Â£26 a plate for food described variously as 'Pucka' and 'Wicked' on the menu, for example). The food varies each week, and can include anything from basic and retro, like chicken kiev and chips (very nice it was too) to a more inspired Osso Bucco for supper. The service can be a little patchy, but one suspects that might be because the waiting staff are not longstanding professionals any more than are the staff in the kitchen, but they're unfailingly friendly so you forgive them. Prices are competitive for the area and good for the quality of food received. All round worth a visit...