Latest reviews for Restaurants in Hoxton, London, United Kingdom

Fifteen - Very nice atmosphere by Hmm

Hmm — Tue, 11 Nov 2008 10:36:11 +0000

Review by Hmm

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 0871 330 1515

Website: http://www.fifteenrestaurant.com

Tags: lively, expensive, italian

Staff is terrific and the food was very goodStaff is terrific and the food was very good

Gem - Uppers and Downers by up_shiraz

up_shiraz — Sun, 09 Nov 2008 17:19:19 +0000

Review by up_shiraz

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7359 0405

Tags: turkish, lively, good value

There are more eateries on Upper Street than one road neccesarily deserves. So how to choose one? Well the brief was...a few quick tastes at the Sampler, then a 1 hour slot for dinner and then down to the cinema to see Bond smoulder on the big screen before despatching a few bad guys through walls and stuff.

We'd been to Gem before because the name appeals to the young lady (I wonder why...?). We went back this time because of the fine food and the reasons above. It is a very friendly place with a partially unhinged waitress who's a bit of a hoot.

Little pancakes to start and then cold and hot mezze all round. The dips were tasty and the hot bits delicious. It wasn't complicated but it was well executed and everyone left feeling full and feeling that they'd got good value for their tenner. A beautiful bottle of Rioja on top and a bit of service and it was all in for Â£15 a head. And done in under an hour.

Government Warning: Do not arrive at the cinema after the hordes, sit right at the front and try to follow extreme Bond action camera movements on a full stomach of Kurdish food!There are more eateries on Upper Street than one road neccesarily deserves. So how to choose one? Well the brief was...a few quick tastes at the Sampler, then a 1 hour slot for dinner and then down to the cinema to see Bond smoulder on the big screen before despatching a few bad guys through walls and stuff.

We'd been to Gem before because the name appeals to the young lady (I wonder why...?). We went back this time because of the fine food and the reasons above. It is a very friendly place with a partially unhinged waitress who's a bit of a hoot.

Little pancakes to start and then cold and hot mezze all round. The dips were tasty and the hot bits delicious. It wasn't complicated but it was well executed and everyone left feeling full and feeling that they'd got good value for their tenner. A beautiful bottle of Rioja on top and a bit of service and it was all in for Â£15 a head. And done in under an hour.

Government Warning: Do not arrive at the cinema after the hordes, sit right at the front and try to follow extreme Bond action camera movements on a full stomach of Kurdish food!

Sen Nin (formerly Ah-So) - Please try harder, and charge me less! by dafinki

dafinki — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:19:57 +0000

Review by dafinki

Rating: 2.00

Tags: expensive, pretentious, japanese

Really not impressed. First of all we witnessed the most lacklustre display of teppenyaki cooking ever. Then they forgot our gyoza. Then we got the billÂ â¬Â almost Â£50 for a lunch with no alcohol. Not good value for money.

When is there going to be a decent Japanese restaurant on Upper Street?Really not impressed. First of all we witnessed the most lacklustre display of teppenyaki cooking ever. Then they forgot our gyoza. Then we got the billÂ â¬Â almost Â£50 for a lunch with no alcohol. Not good value for money.

When is there going to be a decent Japanese restaurant on Upper Street?

Indian Veg Bhelpoori House - Beat the credit crunch... by dafinki

dafinki — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 15:55:55 +0000

Review by dafinki

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7833 1167

Tags: indian, cheap eat, vegetarian

You really couldn't top this place for value for money. It's a vegan indian curry buffet with five curries, three types of rice and lots of other bits like onion bhaji, popadum, roti, pakora, salads and dry snacks.

The curries are tasty but not clever. There are three potato-based curries which are fairly indistinguishable, another a bit like motor paneer except it must have been tofu, and dhal. However, when you can eat as much as you like for Â£3.95 you can hardly complain. It's always fresh and frequently topped up and the drinks are cheap too.

While you're tucking in you can cast your eye over the veggie propaganda covering the walls; probably more entertaining than informative. Apart from that it's very standard cafÃ© decor but what else do you need? It's cheap, it's ethical, it's tasty â¬Â a guilt-free meal out in these tough times is definitely appreciated!You really couldn't top this place for value for money. It's a vegan indian curry buffet with five curries, three types of rice and lots of other bits like onion bhaji, popadum, roti, pakora, salads and dry snacks.

The curries are tasty but not clever. There are three potato-based curries which are fairly indistinguishable, another a bit like motor paneer except it must have been tofu, and dhal. However, when you can eat as much as you like for Â£3.95 you can hardly complain. It's always fresh and frequently topped up and the drinks are cheap too.

While you're tucking in you can cast your eye over the veggie propaganda covering the walls; probably more entertaining than informative. Apart from that it's very standard cafÃ© decor but what else do you need? It's cheap, it's ethical, it's tasty â¬Â a guilt-free meal out in these tough times is definitely appreciated!

Yelo - Take-away by CristinaA

CristinaA — Thu, 30 Oct 2008 11:21:27 +0000

Review by CristinaA

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7729 4626

Website: http://www.yelothai.com

Tags: thai, outside tables, cocktails

Bar Yelo in Shoreditch is not my idea of a good time. On the night I was there, the music was far too loud and the toilets disgusting.

Maybe I should have ordered a take away as the food wasn't bad, but based on my experience I don't think I'll be going back.
Bar Yelo in Shoreditch is not my idea of a good time. On the night I was there, the music was far too loud and the toilets disgusting.

Maybe I should have ordered a take away as the food wasn't bad, but based on my experience I don't think I'll be going back.

Almeida Wine Bar & Restaurant - Almeida, 16 October 2008 by Food_Snob

Food_Snob — Mon, 20 Oct 2008 05:08:51 +0000

Review by Food_Snob

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7354 4777

Website: www.almeida-restaurant.co.uk

Tags: french, good value, romantic

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/16/almeida-london/

Text-only Critique:

October 13th-19th is chocolate week. Paul A. Young is a chocolatier. Alan Jones is a chef. Together, they have created a special chocolate menu at Almeida restaurant. I love chocolate. I will eat this chocolate menu.

Logical, succinct and simple, my sentences have never been so short, nor so selfish. And it only gets worse. This is probably also my most indulgent, most useless greedy adventure yet: this carte chocolat is only on for one week - chocolate week (surprise, surprise). But chocolate week was last week.

Upper Street, Islington, dating from at least the 12th century, has had a long if not spectacular history. It has always been part of one of Englandâ¬"s greatest roads - the Great North Road, successor to the Roman Ermine Road and itself precursor to the present A1 - and also a stopping place for hungry farmers from the surrounding fertile fields en route to the Royal Agricultural Hall. It was this thoroughfare of tradesman that first attracted many pubs and inns to the area and although Islington has since become a trendy, modern North London enclave, it is still characterised by the extensive array of eateries that exist there.

Today, 580 yards of high street gastro heaven separate two more-ambitious foodie establishments: Almeida, part of the 20-restaurant-strong D&D chain (formerly Terence Conranâ¬"s eating-empire), and the original Paul A. Youngâ¬"s Fine Chocolates Camden Passage boutique.

Almeida is the newly refurbished French restaurant serving contemporary Bourgeois cuisine. Chef Alan Jones, who joined in June 2007 after stints at Foliage and as sous chef at Bath-based Relais & Chateaux hotel, Lucknam Park (1*), has introduced a more refined and lighter menu which focuses on using seasonal produce simply; â¬Ümy food is very fresh and inspired by the seasons, using clean flavours and combining colour and texture.â¬"

Yorkshire man, Young, after attending Durham and Leeds Metropolitan Universities, spent his early career working in some of Northern Englandâ¬"s best restaurants before being poached by Marco Pierre White (how does this fellow get his name into every other review I write?). Starting as a pastry chef at The Criterion Brasserie, then Titanic, he finally began earning recognition as Head Pastry Chef at Quo Vadis. Then, in a change of direction he became a desserts consultant for M&S and Sainsburyâ¬"s, during which time the success of a promotion he had made some chocolates for inspired him to go coco fulltime. One can now find him in a Georgian house in Islington crafting and creating confection in the basement; selling them on the ground floor; and living on the first.

The duo share more than just a postcode though; besides the fact that Young is an Almeida regular and that he and Jones have become friends, the two men share a common past, having both at some time worked under Marco Pierre White. Together, they have spent the last six months testing and tasting different coco combinations, to construct a seven course seasonal chocolate carte. With Jonesâ¬" expressed intention â¬Üto show people that chocolate is a lot more than just a dessert component; it has a complexity and depth of flavour that enhances a menu at every turn,â¬" and Youngâ¬"s bold assertion that â¬Üthereâ¬"s nothing you cannot mix with chocolate,â¬" one is sure to expect something special.

It was Wednesday afternoon I first saw the Menuâ¬"s advertisement on London Eating and my interest was immediately piqued, I admit, more by the mention of Youngâ¬"s chocolates than Almeidaâ¬"s association; in my more mischievous moments, I have often made the short stroll to the chocolatierâ¬"s tiny Royal Exchange outpost to indulge in some of his fine handmade choc, especially, the award-winning salted caramel truffles and yummy brownies. D&D restaurants, on the other hand, are an unknown quantity to me. Anyway, it was a one-off occasion and good chocolate is worth the riskâ¬¦

Opposite the Almeida Theatre, upon the eponymous side street is the eponymous eatery. Exposed corn-coloured brickwork encloses tall, white-latticed windows and the restaurantâ¬"s arched entrance. The inside space is considerable, 98 cover considerable. One side of the vast room is lined by felt burgundy banquette, the opposite side by a bar, where one hundred wineglasses dangle upside down in flawless formation. Across from the large glass front that allows the lovely sunlight in is a semi-open kitchen from which copper pots glisten and stainless steel saucepans shine. The oak dining room floor is partially covered by slate gray carpet and broken up by columns of Carolina blue. The centre space is filled with circle linen-covered tables, whilst bare, light-oak, square ones skirt the long settee; bentwood chairs abut both. Wooden salt and pepper shakers, plain glassware and cutlery and simple, white custom Conran crockery adorns tabletops. The openness is busied by hustle and bustle from the kitchen and diner; the room has the relaxed class of a classic bistro.

Amuse Bouche: Butternut squash veloutÃ©, chocolate and cumin stirrer. A cup of amber butternut squash soup was served with a baton of 72% Venezuelan chocolate studded with toasted cumin seeds. Hot, creamy and smooth, the squash set free a subtle, sweet aftertaste whilst the spiceâ¬"s earthy sharpness and natural sourness of Venezuelan choc worked well together. When the cumin-cocoa club was stirred through, little by little, as instructed, the seedâ¬"s warmth and bitterness balanced nicely with the sweeter soup, but in the end, the blend was a little too rich.

Les Pains: Focaccia, brown, poppy seed and baguette. The baguette was crackly crisp; brown buns were thick, wholesome and made great sauce soppers; focaccia was fluffy and pleasantly greaseless; whilst, my preference, poppy, was so soft with a crunchy seedy crust. Rock salt sprinkled English butter accompanied. Although not baked onsite, the bread is at least delivered daily from the French Bakery and served, generally, warm.

EntrÃ©e: Salad of smoked eel, oysters and watercress, chocolate vinaigrette. A circular conga line of carved eel, shucked oysters and potato pieces came garnished with watercress leaf and syrupy spirals of chocolate vinaigrette. Both bivalves and fish were surprisingly mild with soft baked potato adding substance. The fresh, peppery cress was a good counterpoint to the briny seafood whilst the balsamic-sherry vinegar cut through the oily eel. The 64% Dominican chocolate was another gentle addition, whose nutty-smokiness linked the different elements nicely.

Plat Principal 1: Brill with hazelnut and cocoa crust, fricassee of wild mushrooms. Upon a verdant island of spinach, surrounded by a sea of creamy golden brown girolle and cÃ¨pe fricassee, a pan fried fillet of brill, encrusted with hazelnut, spinach and Venezuelan cracked cocoa nibs, sat. The fish was cooked delicately whilst the meaty mushrooms brought with them different texture, floating in a flavourful, earthy consommÃ©. The spinach was well prepared and though not crunchy, had nice bite. The veggy-nutty-coco coating was a splendid and interesting addition that complemented the whole dish: hazelnuts, a natural partner to chocolate enhanced the nuttiness of the mushrooms; a hint of choc came through the cocoa nibs - roasted cocoa beans separated from their husks and broken into small bits - that picked up on the fishâ¬"s soft sweetness whilst adding crunch; and the spinach provided warm mushiness.

â¬ÜPalate Refresherâ¬": Cucumber and lime chocolate. Next, â¬Üto refresh and invigorateâ¬" came a pair of truffles or more precisely, Venezuelan 70% Amedei chuao blended in water-based ganache with fresh cucumber and lime zest. The fruity and citrusy Amedei chocolate, which synchronised with its citrus lime contents, was pleasingly light with a clean, dry finish. However, the cucumber was rather overpowered by the lime.

Plat Principal 2: Pot roast Barbary duck, candied carrots, Madeira and chocolate jus. Delightfully dark pink Barbary duck slices were delivered fanned over Savoy cabbage and candied carrots; alongside a baked fondant potato carrying confit duck breast roll; and mizzled with Madeira and chocolate gravy. Initially, the cabbage-carrot commixture came with lardons of pancetta, which also cased the confit; only after tucking into the duck did I notice this and upon confirming the porkâ¬"s presence, the dish was immediately whisked away and a brand new one soon arrived. On both occasions the delicious duck, roasted in sealed pot, was tender and full-flavoured; the peppered flesh was coated with just enough succulent fat to moisten it without making one feel guilty. The vegetables, creamed with crÃ¨me fraiche, which countered the candied carrot, consisted also of crunchy cabbage; and smooth potato boasted the richest, most sensuous, slow-cooked duck breast. The Madeira, mixed with 66% Amedei Toscano black - a versatile chocolate tasting of subtle tobacco, liquorice with caramelised sweetness and definite, aromatic aftertaste - sumptuously super-glued all the elements together. This was warm, hearty and fulfilling food.

Pre-Dessert: Milk and white Chocolate ice cream. This pre-dessert differed from standard sorbet: a multi-layered milk and white chocolate shot topped with hundreds-and-thousands arrived accompanied by a pickâ¬"n'mix platter of vanilla and strawberry marshmallow, roasted almond flakes, cocoa nibs and tiny dies of truffle: essentially a tongue-in-cheek, make-your-own sundae. The Ecuadorian 55% pure Arriba bean (from small producer Lourdes Delgado, exclusively for Paul A. Young) and 35% cocoa butter white chocolate was well balanced, mildly bitter and sweet in turn. The hundreds-and-thousands and almonds added crunch, as did the cocoa nibs - sometimes described as the essence of chocolate - which imparted a delicate, unsweetened touch of choc. The marshmallow was nice and light, whilst the truffles, gorgeous; melting in the mouth, airy and with an unusual grainy, crumbly consistency.

Dessert 1: Dark chocolate, prune and Armagnac. A simply presented trio of coco fondant; Armagnac-soaked, pitted prune festooned with julienne orange zest; and Armagnac ice cream atop an almond-hazelnut crumb base came with an artistic application of dark chocolate. The prune was sticky and serious; the fabulous fondant, the best example I have had in a long, long time: warm, crispy crust of moist, rich sponge served to suppress a lush lake of hot, liquid cocoa that ran like molten magma. The cool ice cream supplied a smooth, refreshing, real fruity spirit slap without which it would not have been able to stand up to the unusually yet not unpleasantly strong 68% Ghanaian dark coco.

Dessert 2: Passion fruit soufflÃ©, yoghurt sorbet. So impressive was the first dessert, I was worried that any that followed would undoubtedly disappoint; however after some stern supplication from my serveur, Giancarlo, I could not snub the offer of a sugar-dusted, rustic passion fruit soufflÃ© and liberal scoop of yoghurt sorbet. Lighter-than-air, I was able to almost breathe in the treat, but contrary to its good texture, I found the passion fruitâ¬"s tart-sweetness quite overpowered by the sour sorbet.

Chocolat chaud et Petit Fours: Hot ganache. To complete this celebration of chocolate came strong and spicy hot chocolate made with spring water and 85% African cocoa and a pinch of black cardamom. The thick brew was lovely and rich, thoroughly warming oneâ¬"s cockles. In addition, petit fours of the same choc were crafted three ways - thins, ganache and crÃ¨me demi-truffle. These were well made with intense, tannic African chocolate and floral, smoky flavour from the spice.

First, a quick comment on the service is warranted. It was very friendly, warm and thoughtful. The aforesaid Giancarlo was talkative, attentive and clearly enjoyed his job. He possessed a good knowledge of the food and was willing to go into as much detail as was desired. After learning that the soufflÃ©, a personal favourite of his, did not match the fondant, he even offered not to charge me for it. The fussiness with which the duck dish was replaced was also notable.

As regards the food, as mentioned already, I was unsure what to expect. I am glad to say though, I was pleasantly surprised: the cooking was difficult to fault; the produce, good quality; and presentation, professional. One could maybe make the comment that there is an absence of some of the finer ingredients of haute cuisine, but that is not what Almeida is trying to be and at the prices charged, there can be no complaint. Plus, it is not as if any corners are carelessly cut: brill is a good alternative to turbot, Maldon oysters can be obtained fresher than Cancale ones, etc. I also felt that the special menu itself was successful; Jones and Youngâ¬"s aim to show how coco â¬Üis such a versatile and creative ingredientâ¬" definitely came off. Never did I get the impression that chocolate was forced upon or thrown onto a plate, instead it was worked in gently, softly into each course in a carefully considered and fully thought-out manner. The chocolate was not the dishâ¬"s focus and I do not think it was ever meant to be; my impression was that it was to be seen as any other element and not designed to distract or shock, but simply enhance the accompanying parts. After all, let us not forget, as if Young would let us, â¬Üchocolate is supposed to be fun and quite naughty.â¬" This meal proved just that and more; good food with an interesting twist.

In post-meal conversation, Chef Jones himself admitted, â¬ÜIâ¬"m not trying to change the world.â¬" Maybe not Alan, but you have made it a little sweeter.

Almeida:
30 Almeida Street, Islington, N1 1AD
tel: 020 7354 4777
nearest tube: Angel, Highbury & Islington
www.almeida-restaurant.co.uk

Paul A. Young:
33 Camden Passage, Islington, N1 8EA
tel. 020 7424 5750
nearest tube: Angel
www.paulayoung.co.uk
Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/10/16/almeida-london/

Text-only Critique:

October 13th-19th is chocolate week. Paul A. Young is a chocolatier. Alan Jones is a chef. Together, they have created a special chocolate menu at Almeida restaurant. I love chocolate. I will eat this chocolate menu.

Logical, succinct and simple, my sentences have never been so short, nor so selfish. And it only gets worse. This is probably also my most indulgent, most useless greedy adventure yet: this carte chocolat is only on for one week - chocolate week (surprise, surprise). But chocolate week was last week.

Upper Street, Islington, dating from at least the 12th century, has had a long if not spectacular history. It has always been part of one of Englandâ¬"s greatest roads - the Great North Road, successor to the Roman Ermine Road and itself precursor to the present A1 - and also a stopping place for hungry farmers from the surrounding fertile fields en route to the Royal Agricultural Hall. It was this thoroughfare of tradesman that first attracted many pubs and inns to the area and although Islington has since become a trendy, modern North London enclave, it is still characterised by the extensive array of eateries that exist there.

Today, 580 yards of high street gastro heaven separate two more-ambitious foodie establishments: Almeida, part of the 20-restaurant-strong D&D chain (formerly Terence Conranâ¬"s eating-empire), and the original Paul A. Youngâ¬"s Fine Chocolates Camden Passage boutique.

Almeida is the newly refurbished French restaurant serving contemporary Bourgeois cuisine. Chef Alan Jones, who joined in June 2007 after stints at Foliage and as sous chef at Bath-based Relais & Chateaux hotel, Lucknam Park (1*), has introduced a more refined and lighter menu which focuses on using seasonal produce simply; â¬Ümy food is very fresh and inspired by the seasons, using clean flavours and combining colour and texture.â¬"

Yorkshire man, Young, after attending Durham and Leeds Metropolitan Universities, spent his early career working in some of Northern Englandâ¬"s best restaurants before being poached by Marco Pierre White (how does this fellow get his name into every other review I write?). Starting as a pastry chef at The Criterion Brasserie, then Titanic, he finally began earning recognition as Head Pastry Chef at Quo Vadis. Then, in a change of direction he became a desserts consultant for M&S and Sainsburyâ¬"s, during which time the success of a promotion he had made some chocolates for inspired him to go coco fulltime. One can now find him in a Georgian house in Islington crafting and creating confection in the basement; selling them on the ground floor; and living on the first.

The duo share more than just a postcode though; besides the fact that Young is an Almeida regular and that he and Jones have become friends, the two men share a common past, having both at some time worked under Marco Pierre White. Together, they have spent the last six months testing and tasting different coco combinations, to construct a seven course seasonal chocolate carte. With Jonesâ¬" expressed intention â¬Üto show people that chocolate is a lot more than just a dessert component; it has a complexity and depth of flavour that enhances a menu at every turn,â¬" and Youngâ¬"s bold assertion that â¬Üthereâ¬"s nothing you cannot mix with chocolate,â¬" one is sure to expect something special.

It was Wednesday afternoon I first saw the Menuâ¬"s advertisement on London Eating and my interest was immediately piqued, I admit, more by the mention of Youngâ¬"s chocolates than Almeidaâ¬"s association; in my more mischievous moments, I have often made the short stroll to the chocolatierâ¬"s tiny Royal Exchange outpost to indulge in some of his fine handmade choc, especially, the award-winning salted caramel truffles and yummy brownies. D&D restaurants, on the other hand, are an unknown quantity to me. Anyway, it was a one-off occasion and good chocolate is worth the riskâ¬¦

Opposite the Almeida Theatre, upon the eponymous side street is the eponymous eatery. Exposed corn-coloured brickwork encloses tall, white-latticed windows and the restaurantâ¬"s arched entrance. The inside space is considerable, 98 cover considerable. One side of the vast room is lined by felt burgundy banquette, the opposite side by a bar, where one hundred wineglasses dangle upside down in flawless formation. Across from the large glass front that allows the lovely sunlight in is a semi-open kitchen from which copper pots glisten and stainless steel saucepans shine. The oak dining room floor is partially covered by slate gray carpet and broken up by columns of Carolina blue. The centre space is filled with circle linen-covered tables, whilst bare, light-oak, square ones skirt the long settee; bentwood chairs abut both. Wooden salt and pepper shakers, plain glassware and cutlery and simple, white custom Conran crockery adorns tabletops. The openness is busied by hustle and bustle from the kitchen and diner; the room has the relaxed class of a classic bistro.

Amuse Bouche: Butternut squash veloutÃ©, chocolate and cumin stirrer. A cup of amber butternut squash soup was served with a baton of 72% Venezuelan chocolate studded with toasted cumin seeds. Hot, creamy and smooth, the squash set free a subtle, sweet aftertaste whilst the spiceâ¬"s earthy sharpness and natural sourness of Venezuelan choc worked well together. When the cumin-cocoa club was stirred through, little by little, as instructed, the seedâ¬"s warmth and bitterness balanced nicely with the sweeter soup, but in the end, the blend was a little too rich.

Les Pains: Focaccia, brown, poppy seed and baguette. The baguette was crackly crisp; brown buns were thick, wholesome and made great sauce soppers; focaccia was fluffy and pleasantly greaseless; whilst, my preference, poppy, was so soft with a crunchy seedy crust. Rock salt sprinkled English butter accompanied. Although not baked onsite, the bread is at least delivered daily from the French Bakery and served, generally, warm.

EntrÃ©e: Salad of smoked eel, oysters and watercress, chocolate vinaigrette. A circular conga line of carved eel, shucked oysters and potato pieces came garnished with watercress leaf and syrupy spirals of chocolate vinaigrette. Both bivalves and fish were surprisingly mild with soft baked potato adding substance. The fresh, peppery cress was a good counterpoint to the briny seafood whilst the balsamic-sherry vinegar cut through the oily eel. The 64% Dominican chocolate was another gentle addition, whose nutty-smokiness linked the different elements nicely.

Plat Principal 1: Brill with hazelnut and cocoa crust, fricassee of wild mushrooms. Upon a verdant island of spinach, surrounded by a sea of creamy golden brown girolle and cÃ¨pe fricassee, a pan fried fillet of brill, encrusted with hazelnut, spinach and Venezuelan cracked cocoa nibs, sat. The fish was cooked delicately whilst the meaty mushrooms brought with them different texture, floating in a flavourful, earthy consommÃ©. The spinach was well prepared and though not crunchy, had nice bite. The veggy-nutty-coco coating was a splendid and interesting addition that complemented the whole dish: hazelnuts, a natural partner to chocolate enhanced the nuttiness of the mushrooms; a hint of choc came through the cocoa nibs - roasted cocoa beans separated from their husks and broken into small bits - that picked up on the fishâ¬"s soft sweetness whilst adding crunch; and the spinach provided warm mushiness.

â¬ÜPalate Refresherâ¬": Cucumber and lime chocolate. Next, â¬Üto refresh and invigorateâ¬" came a pair of truffles or more precisely, Venezuelan 70% Amedei chuao blended in water-based ganache with fresh cucumber and lime zest. The fruity and citrusy Amedei chocolate, which synchronised with its citrus lime contents, was pleasingly light with a clean, dry finish. However, the cucumber was rather overpowered by the lime.

Plat Principal 2: Pot roast Barbary duck, candied carrots, Madeira and chocolate jus. Delightfully dark pink Barbary duck slices were delivered fanned over Savoy cabbage and candied carrots; alongside a baked fondant potato carrying confit duck breast roll; and mizzled with Madeira and chocolate gravy. Initially, the cabbage-carrot commixture came with lardons of pancetta, which also cased the confit; only after tucking into the duck did I notice this and upon confirming the porkâ¬"s presence, the dish was immediately whisked away and a brand new one soon arrived. On both occasions the delicious duck, roasted in sealed pot, was tender and full-flavoured; the peppered flesh was coated with just enough succulent fat to moisten it without making one feel guilty. The vegetables, creamed with crÃ¨me fraiche, which countered the candied carrot, consisted also of crunchy cabbage; and smooth potato boasted the richest, most sensuous, slow-cooked duck breast. The Madeira, mixed with 66% Amedei Toscano black - a versatile chocolate tasting of subtle tobacco, liquorice with caramelised sweetness and definite, aromatic aftertaste - sumptuously super-glued all the elements together. This was warm, hearty and fulfilling food.

Pre-Dessert: Milk and white Chocolate ice cream. This pre-dessert differed from standard sorbet: a multi-layered milk and white chocolate shot topped with hundreds-and-thousands arrived accompanied by a pickâ¬"n'mix platter of vanilla and strawberry marshmallow, roasted almond flakes, cocoa nibs and tiny dies of truffle: essentially a tongue-in-cheek, make-your-own sundae. The Ecuadorian 55% pure Arriba bean (from small producer Lourdes Delgado, exclusively for Paul A. Young) and 35% cocoa butter white chocolate was well balanced, mildly bitter and sweet in turn. The hundreds-and-thousands and almonds added crunch, as did the cocoa nibs - sometimes described as the essence of chocolate - which imparted a delicate, unsweetened touch of choc. The marshmallow was nice and light, whilst the truffles, gorgeous; melting in the mouth, airy and with an unusual grainy, crumbly consistency.

Dessert 1: Dark chocolate, prune and Armagnac. A simply presented trio of coco fondant; Armagnac-soaked, pitted prune festooned with julienne orange zest; and Armagnac ice cream atop an almond-hazelnut crumb base came with an artistic application of dark chocolate. The prune was sticky and serious; the fabulous fondant, the best example I have had in a long, long time: warm, crispy crust of moist, rich sponge served to suppress a lush lake of hot, liquid cocoa that ran like molten magma. The cool ice cream supplied a smooth, refreshing, real fruity spirit slap without which it would not have been able to stand up to the unusually yet not unpleasantly strong 68% Ghanaian dark coco.

Dessert 2: Passion fruit soufflÃ©, yoghurt sorbet. So impressive was the first dessert, I was worried that any that followed would undoubtedly disappoint; however after some stern supplication from my serveur, Giancarlo, I could not snub the offer of a sugar-dusted, rustic passion fruit soufflÃ© and liberal scoop of yoghurt sorbet. Lighter-than-air, I was able to almost breathe in the treat, but contrary to its good texture, I found the passion fruitâ¬"s tart-sweetness quite overpowered by the sour sorbet.

Chocolat chaud et Petit Fours: Hot ganache. To complete this celebration of chocolate came strong and spicy hot chocolate made with spring water and 85% African cocoa and a pinch of black cardamom. The thick brew was lovely and rich, thoroughly warming oneâ¬"s cockles. In addition, petit fours of the same choc were crafted three ways - thins, ganache and crÃ¨me demi-truffle. These were well made with intense, tannic African chocolate and floral, smoky flavour from the spice.

First, a quick comment on the service is warranted. It was very friendly, warm and thoughtful. The aforesaid Giancarlo was talkative, attentive and clearly enjoyed his job. He possessed a good knowledge of the food and was willing to go into as much detail as was desired. After learning that the soufflÃ©, a personal favourite of his, did not match the fondant, he even offered not to charge me for it. The fussiness with which the duck dish was replaced was also notable.

As regards the food, as mentioned already, I was unsure what to expect. I am glad to say though, I was pleasantly surprised: the cooking was difficult to fault; the produce, good quality; and presentation, professional. One could maybe make the comment that there is an absence of some of the finer ingredients of haute cuisine, but that is not what Almeida is trying to be and at the prices charged, there can be no complaint. Plus, it is not as if any corners are carelessly cut: brill is a good alternative to turbot, Maldon oysters can be obtained fresher than Cancale ones, etc. I also felt that the special menu itself was successful; Jones and Youngâ¬"s aim to show how coco â¬Üis such a versatile and creative ingredientâ¬" definitely came off. Never did I get the impression that chocolate was forced upon or thrown onto a plate, instead it was worked in gently, softly into each course in a carefully considered and fully thought-out manner. The chocolate was not the dishâ¬"s focus and I do not think it was ever meant to be; my impression was that it was to be seen as any other element and not designed to distract or shock, but simply enhance the accompanying parts. After all, let us not forget, as if Young would let us, â¬Üchocolate is supposed to be fun and quite naughty.â¬" This meal proved just that and more; good food with an interesting twist.

In post-meal conversation, Chef Jones himself admitted, â¬ÜIâ¬"m not trying to change the world.â¬" Maybe not Alan, but you have made it a little sweeter.

Almeida:
30 Almeida Street, Islington, N1 1AD
tel: 020 7354 4777
nearest tube: Angel, Highbury & Islington
www.almeida-restaurant.co.uk

Paul A. Young:
33 Camden Passage, Islington, N1 8EA
tel. 020 7424 5750
nearest tube: Angel
www.paulayoung.co.uk

Kika - Sunny side up by ben1982

ben1982 — Thu, 25 Sep 2008 17:09:37 +0000

Review by ben1982

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7288 2439

Tags: vegetarian dishes, philippine

A beautiful garden provides a stunning setting for a range of organic breakfast offerings - welsh rarebit served with poached egg; the organic beans; nutty toast with organic jams are all touches that elevate this above other nearby places. You do pay substantially for the privilege but if it is a sunny day, it is definitely worth the expense...A beautiful garden provides a stunning setting for a range of organic breakfast offerings - welsh rarebit served with poached egg; the organic beans; nutty toast with organic jams are all touches that elevate this above other nearby places. You do pay substantially for the privilege but if it is a sunny day, it is definitely worth the expense...

Med Kitchen - Med Kitchen Restaurant by ludster

ludster — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 19:04:28 +0000

Review by ludster

Rating: 4.00Pleasant Decor, comfortable/relaxed atomosphere.
Serving staff are okay (but should smile a little bit more often)
The Service is good, the time between meals was good(although it was a Monday evening when I ate there so I couldn't comment what it's like on a 'really' busy night??)
The food was good (quite a varied Menu, so something for everybody!), a shared 'Greek Style' Starter was very nice, For Main I had Grill Sea Bass which was lovely (and I'd recommend the Balsamic Grilled Veg!!), my friend has Swordfish which he thought was also good.
Price wise - about average, so quite good for the area.
Would I return, yes I would.Pleasant Decor, comfortable/relaxed atomosphere.
Serving staff are okay (but should smile a little bit more often)
The Service is good, the time between meals was good(although it was a Monday evening when I ate there so I couldn't comment what it's like on a 'really' busy night??)
The food was good (quite a varied Menu, so something for everybody!), a shared 'Greek Style' Starter was very nice, For Main I had Grill Sea Bass which was lovely (and I'd recommend the Balsamic Grilled Veg!!), my friend has Swordfish which he thought was also good.
Price wise - about average, so quite good for the area.
Would I return, yes I would.

Zigne House - by michael_k

michael_k — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 11:29:59 +0000

Review by michael_k

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 72267418

very nice eritrean restaurant with great food at great prices. try the buffet -it's really nice.very nice eritrean restaurant with great food at great prices. try the buffet -it's really nice.

Fredericks - Business dining... by foodbymark

foodbymark — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:14:00 +0000

Review by foodbymark

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 7359 2888

Website: www.fredericks.co.uk

Tags: smoking, business, al fresco

Frederick's is a bar and restaurant slightly hidden away in Camden Passage and has long established a reputation of delivering some of the best food in Islington serving up Modern European cuisine. The main area is through the back and is a large airy room with high vaulted glass ceiling. The atmosphere is perfect for business lunches and dinners.

As a quick trip we only ordered mains with sides. Dishes ordered included the Roasted cod, creamed leeks, pancetta & mash potato and Pan-fried salmon with scallops, cauliflower purÃ©e & broad bean dressing. Whilst all the dishes were beautifully prepared and balanced the service was a let down. Our sides, saute potatoes, hand cut chips and spinach and arrived at different times and the chips did not even end up coming as we had to leave after an hour and fiften minutes. The staff were friendly but despite it not being that busy, it was far too chaotic and a let down.

I feel that tonight was probably not the best night, although I have read somewhat often complaints of poor service at Frederick's. The food however was highly enjoyable and this a good location in Islington to entertain clients. 3 and a 1/2 stars!Frederick's is a bar and restaurant slightly hidden away in Camden Passage and has long established a reputation of delivering some of the best food in Islington serving up Modern European cuisine. The main area is through the back and is a large airy room with high vaulted glass ceiling. The atmosphere is perfect for business lunches and dinners.

As a quick trip we only ordered mains with sides. Dishes ordered included the Roasted cod, creamed leeks, pancetta & mash potato and Pan-fried salmon with scallops, cauliflower purÃ©e & broad bean dressing. Whilst all the dishes were beautifully prepared and balanced the service was a let down. Our sides, saute potatoes, hand cut chips and spinach and arrived at different times and the chips did not even end up coming as we had to leave after an hour and fiften minutes. The staff were friendly but despite it not being that busy, it was far too chaotic and a let down.

I feel that tonight was probably not the best night, although I have read somewhat often complaints of poor service at Frederick's. The food however was highly enjoyable and this a good location in Islington to entertain clients. 3 and a 1/2 stars!

Tortilla - What most Americans expect a burrito to taste like by opticnoodle

opticnoodle — Sat, 13 Sep 2008 15:15:54 +0000

Review by opticnoodle

Rating: 4.00

Website: www.tortilla.co.uk

Tags: lively, mexican, good value

A brief agreement with allolex's review.

My title about sums it up. I've had some good burritos in London (notably El Panzon in Brixton) but Tortilla is the only place I've been to in London where the taste and ingredients in the burrito were what I would expect to receive in an American burrito joint. I think it's important to make this distinction since the USA has so co-opted Mexican food and there's a proliferation of wrap/burrito joints which have cropped up across the country (especially in college towns) that have changed our expectation of what a burrito should taste like. Probably to the dis-taste of many Americans who are fans of their regional variation on mexican food.

My impression was also confirmed by the fact that just about everyone in the place was American!A brief agreement with allolex's review.

My title about sums it up. I've had some good burritos in London (notably El Panzon in Brixton) but Tortilla is the only place I've been to in London where the taste and ingredients in the burrito were what I would expect to receive in an American burrito joint. I think it's important to make this distinction since the USA has so co-opted Mexican food and there's a proliferation of wrap/burrito joints which have cropped up across the country (especially in college towns) that have changed our expectation of what a burrito should taste like. Probably to the dis-taste of many Americans who are fans of their regional variation on mexican food.

My impression was also confirmed by the fact that just about everyone in the place was American!

Hoxton Apprentice - Different league to 15 by joslyoung

joslyoung — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:29:17 +0000

Review by joslyoung

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7749 2828

Website: http://www.hoxtonapprentice.com

Tags: good value, british, business

They say that this place is 'like' Jamie Oliver's 15, on the grounds that it also employs unemployed youngsters and trains them in professional kitchens. But as far as I'm concerned, that's where the similarity ends.
Unlike Jamie's place nearby, the Hoxton Apprentice is unpretentious (it doesn't charge Â£26 a plate for food described variously as 'Pucka' and 'Wicked' on the menu, for example). The food varies each week, and can include anything from basic and retro, like chicken kiev and chips (very nice it was too) to a more inspired Osso Bucco for supper. The service can be a little patchy, but one suspects that might be because the waiting staff are not longstanding professionals any more than are the staff in the kitchen, but they're unfailingly friendly so you forgive them. Prices are competitive for the area and good for the quality of food received. All round worth a visit...They say that this place is 'like' Jamie Oliver's 15, on the grounds that it also employs unemployed youngsters and trains them in professional kitchens. But as far as I'm concerned, that's where the similarity ends.
Unlike Jamie's place nearby, the Hoxton Apprentice is unpretentious (it doesn't charge Â£26 a plate for food described variously as 'Pucka' and 'Wicked' on the menu, for example). The food varies each week, and can include anything from basic and retro, like chicken kiev and chips (very nice it was too) to a more inspired Osso Bucco for supper. The service can be a little patchy, but one suspects that might be because the waiting staff are not longstanding professionals any more than are the staff in the kitchen, but they're unfailingly friendly so you forgive them. Prices are competitive for the area and good for the quality of food received. All round worth a visit...

Strada - Excellent good value food by hellyphant

hellyphant — Fri, 05 Sep 2008 15:33:12 +0000

Review by hellyphant

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7226 9742

Website: http://www.strada.co.uk

Tags: italian, good value, lively

I've been to Strada in Islington several times and have never left disappointed. They serve a variety of pasta dishes and pizzas and a great selection of fish. I ate a baby octupus for the first time in Strada!
The food arrived very quickly and was lovely and hot, portions were perfectly sized and left me feeling satisfied, rather than bloated, and with enough space for that all important desert.
Although they don't have an amazing selection, what they do serve is delicious. I can recommend the hot chocolate cake with vanilla icecream. Divine!I've been to Strada in Islington several times and have never left disappointed. They serve a variety of pasta dishes and pizzas and a great selection of fish. I ate a baby octupus for the first time in Strada!
The food arrived very quickly and was lovely and hot, portions were perfectly sized and left me feeling satisfied, rather than bloated, and with enough space for that all important desert.
Although they don't have an amazing selection, what they do serve is delicious. I can recommend the hot chocolate cake with vanilla icecream. Divine!

Sangria - Mediocre by alisonelm

alisonelm — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 17:47:14 +0000

Review by alisonelm

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7704 5253

Tags: spanish, good value, crowded

I went to Sangria for a friend's birthday and had read some pretty awful reviews so I wasn't expecting great things which is good as it's pretty mediocre and certainly lived up to its poor reputation.

The food itself was ok-but nothing out of the ordinary. Some dishes were bland, some dripping in oil, some lukewarm and some just nothingy. The paella they served was possibly the most tasteless thing I've ever eaten. There was just no point to eating it.

However, the food was the good part of the experience! The staff were woefully disinterested in actually waiting on their tables. It took me 6 requests to get a glass of lemonade, including my walking to the bar where the barman refused to pour it for me as my waiter had not asked him to. I then asked the waiter again and he blamed the barman. They said they would leave if off the bill and then didn't. Of course.

Service was haphazard, slow and at times rude.

There are many many restaurants I would far rather go to again than this one. Avoid at all cost.I went to Sangria for a friend's birthday and had read some pretty awful reviews so I wasn't expecting great things which is good as it's pretty mediocre and certainly lived up to its poor reputation.

The food itself was ok-but nothing out of the ordinary. Some dishes were bland, some dripping in oil, some lukewarm and some just nothingy. The paella they served was possibly the most tasteless thing I've ever eaten. There was just no point to eating it.

However, the food was the good part of the experience! The staff were woefully disinterested in actually waiting on their tables. It took me 6 requests to get a glass of lemonade, including my walking to the bar where the barman refused to pour it for me as my waiter had not asked him to. I then asked the waiter again and he blamed the barman. They said they would leave if off the bill and then didn't. Of course.

Service was haphazard, slow and at times rude.

There are many many restaurants I would far rather go to again than this one. Avoid at all cost.

Masala Zone - yummy food by beckyfox

beckyfox — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 14:42:07 +0000

Review by beckyfox

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7359 3399

Website: http://www.realindianfood.com

Tags: indian, lively, good value

I have been to the masala zone many times and have always found they serve great food which is also very good value for money. If you eat before 6 or 7 you can get 2 courses for 8 pounds bargain!! Best dish is a thali as you get a bit of everything! they do a great pineapple chutney a take on the typical mango chutney. also you have to try the mango lassi as it goes great with a hot curry. Staff are always really helpful and friendly especially if need help to decide what to have. the restaurant is also very modern in design and have lovely little booths.I have been to the masala zone many times and have always found they serve great food which is also very good value for money. If you eat before 6 or 7 you can get 2 courses for 8 pounds bargain!! Best dish is a thali as you get a bit of everything! they do a great pineapple chutney a take on the typical mango chutney. also you have to try the mango lassi as it goes great with a hot curry. Staff are always really helpful and friendly especially if need help to decide what to have. the restaurant is also very modern in design and have lovely little booths.

Cuba Libre & Bar Havana - Tantalising tapas! by izolda

izolda — Tue, 02 Sep 2008 14:10:02 +0000

Review by izolda

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7354 9998

Tags: lively, spanish, restaurant

This is a great place to have a drink and a bite to eat with friends if you're lucky enough to get a table! The place is very popular with young people due to the excellent tapas on offer and the great cocktails which can be ordered in an affordable jug which will keep 4-5 people happy. There is a wide selection of yummy tapas to choose from and they are very reasonably priced. However go before 10pm because they stop serving them after that time. Vibe of the place is laid back and relaxed, and the decoration is ethnic, bright, funky and inviting. Great for a nice evening out with friends.This is a great place to have a drink and a bite to eat with friends if you're lucky enough to get a table! The place is very popular with young people due to the excellent tapas on offer and the great cocktails which can be ordered in an affordable jug which will keep 4-5 people happy. There is a wide selection of yummy tapas to choose from and they are very reasonably priced. However go before 10pm because they stop serving them after that time. Vibe of the place is laid back and relaxed, and the decoration is ethnic, bright, funky and inviting. Great for a nice evening out with friends.

Fig & Olive - Delightful by LOVEANDKATE

LOVEANDKATE — Sun, 31 Aug 2008 21:29:23 +0000

Review by LOVEANDKATE

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7354 2605

Tags: romantic, brasserie, good value

I've never actually eaten dinner here but i do often pop in for coffee and cake in the evening if i'm out at the weekend but not partying.

The selection is fantastic and you can choose from a fresh cake counter! Last night I shared a pistachio tart and a lemon and cherry pie. Both with subtle flavours and were rich and delightful. I beleive they were Â£3.50 each which i think is very reasonable for the surroundings.

Coffee here is excellent and very strong.

restaurant is clean and dimly lit. The appearance is quite modern and fresh and the main courses always smell beautiful.

I should really go back and have dinner then review the place again but I can't see how it would dissapoint!I've never actually eaten dinner here but i do often pop in for coffee and cake in the evening if i'm out at the weekend but not partying.

The selection is fantastic and you can choose from a fresh cake counter! Last night I shared a pistachio tart and a lemon and cherry pie. Both with subtle flavours and were rich and delightful. I beleive they were Â£3.50 each which i think is very reasonable for the surroundings.

Coffee here is excellent and very strong.

restaurant is clean and dimly lit. The appearance is quite modern and fresh and the main courses always smell beautiful.

I should really go back and have dinner then review the place again but I can't see how it would dissapoint!

Le Mercury - FRIENDLY FRENCH RESTAURANT by LOVEANDKATE

LOVEANDKATE — Sun, 31 Aug 2008 19:34:38 +0000

Review by LOVEANDKATE

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7354 4088

Website: http://www.lemercury.co.uk/

Tags: french, romantic, good value

My friend and i ended up on Upper Street last night and as I always do when I'm in Angel, started browsing menus for food. I've been to most eateries in Angel so we decided to try something new.

We passed Le Mercury and decided to go in due to its cheap menu
Starters Â£3.95 and Mains Â£6.95 which is incredibly reasonable for the area.

i must admit, I was a bit scepticle at first- it was either going to be hit or miss. It also appeared to be rather busy and I wasnt sure we'd get a table.

However, like others have mentioned in previous reviews its not just an intimate restaurant crammed full of tables on the ground floor-theres 3 floors of crammed intimate restaurant space!!!!!, it just goes up and up and up rickety wooden stairs.

and yes, very dim candle lit, romantic and even though you're squished in we didnt notice or were aware of others sat around us. No idiots shouting or mis behaving. Infact the crowd was totally mixed- from 18 - 80.

The service staff were lovely and cracked jokes continuously, especially when I ashamedly asked for ketchup for my steak and chips [!!!!!]

We ordered a bottle of wine priced a couple of quid above the house and it was delightful.

food was not outstanding but very pleasant for the price and just the right amount so that you can actually eat both starter and main.

They also gave us enough time to rest inbetween courses and we ended up spending 3 hours in there.

I'd definitely go back- love the rustic and authenticity of the place.

My friend and i ended up on Upper Street last night and as I always do when I'm in Angel, started browsing menus for food. I've been to most eateries in Angel so we decided to try something new.

We passed Le Mercury and decided to go in due to its cheap menu
Starters Â£3.95 and Mains Â£6.95 which is incredibly reasonable for the area.

i must admit, I was a bit scepticle at first- it was either going to be hit or miss. It also appeared to be rather busy and I wasnt sure we'd get a table.

However, like others have mentioned in previous reviews its not just an intimate restaurant crammed full of tables on the ground floor-theres 3 floors of crammed intimate restaurant space!!!!!, it just goes up and up and up rickety wooden stairs.

and yes, very dim candle lit, romantic and even though you're squished in we didnt notice or were aware of others sat around us. No idiots shouting or mis behaving. Infact the crowd was totally mixed- from 18 - 80.

The service staff were lovely and cracked jokes continuously, especially when I ashamedly asked for ketchup for my steak and chips [!!!!!]

We ordered a bottle of wine priced a couple of quid above the house and it was delightful.

food was not outstanding but very pleasant for the price and just the right amount so that you can actually eat both starter and main.

They also gave us enough time to rest inbetween courses and we ended up spending 3 hours in there.

I'd definitely go back- love the rustic and authenticity of the place.

The Angel Curry Centre - BEST CURRY IN LONDON by LOVEANDKATE

LOVEANDKATE — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 23:16:27 +0000

Review by LOVEANDKATE

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7837 5727

Tags: indian, lively, romantic

I'VE EATEN MY WAY THROUGH 60% OF THE CURRY HOUSES ON BRICK LANE AND NONE OF THEM ARE EVEN CLOSE TO THIS LITTLE GEM!!!

STEREOTYPICALLY FOR INDIANS IN ENGLAND IT APPEARS TO BE SET OUT LIKE AN AUNTIES LOUNGE AND MAY NOT SEEM PARTICULARLY ENTICING BUT ONCE YOU'RE IN YOU WON'T TURN BACK!

IT CAN PROBABLY SEAT ABOUT 25-30 TOPS AT ONE TIME AND IS OFTEN BEST TO BOOK LATER ON IN THE WEEK AND AT WEEKENDS. BUT THEY WILL ALWAYS TRY AND FIT YOU IN. ANGEL RESIDENTS IN THE KNOW OFTEN FLOCK HERE IN LARGE PARTIES AND IT CAN GET JOLLYFULLY ROWDY AT TIMES. IN THE WEEK IT TENDS TO BE RELAXED AND MANY DINE ALONE IN COMFORT.

IT IS CLEAN AND THE SERVICE IS POLITE, HUMBLE AND FRIENDLY. THEY OPEN THE DOOR FOR YOU WHEN YOU ARRIVE AND LEAVE AND ARE MORE THAN HAPPY TO ASSIST IN ANY WAY THEY CAN.

MENU IS FANTASTIC, NOT OILY AND GREASY BUT COOKED FRESH AND AUTHENTIC SERVED ON CRISP WHITE PLATES.

POPPADOMS COME WITH A RICH MANGO CHUTNEY, LIME PICKLE, ONION SALAD AND MINT SAUCE WITHOUT EVEN HAVING TO ASK.

I'VE NEVER SPENT MORE THAN Â£15 IN ONE VISIT

NO ATTITUDE, FAB INDIAN - A MUST TO TRY - A SHORT WALK FROM BARS AND LIFE OF ANGEL

LOVE IT!!!!

I'VE EATEN MY WAY THROUGH 60% OF THE CURRY HOUSES ON BRICK LANE AND NONE OF THEM ARE EVEN CLOSE TO THIS LITTLE GEM!!!

STEREOTYPICALLY FOR INDIANS IN ENGLAND IT APPEARS TO BE SET OUT LIKE AN AUNTIES LOUNGE AND MAY NOT SEEM PARTICULARLY ENTICING BUT ONCE YOU'RE IN YOU WON'T TURN BACK!

IT CAN PROBABLY SEAT ABOUT 25-30 TOPS AT ONE TIME AND IS OFTEN BEST TO BOOK LATER ON IN THE WEEK AND AT WEEKENDS. BUT THEY WILL ALWAYS TRY AND FIT YOU IN. ANGEL RESIDENTS IN THE KNOW OFTEN FLOCK HERE IN LARGE PARTIES AND IT CAN GET JOLLYFULLY ROWDY AT TIMES. IN THE WEEK IT TENDS TO BE RELAXED AND MANY DINE ALONE IN COMFORT.

IT IS CLEAN AND THE SERVICE IS POLITE, HUMBLE AND FRIENDLY. THEY OPEN THE DOOR FOR YOU WHEN YOU ARRIVE AND LEAVE AND ARE MORE THAN HAPPY TO ASSIST IN ANY WAY THEY CAN.

MENU IS FANTASTIC, NOT OILY AND GREASY BUT COOKED FRESH AND AUTHENTIC SERVED ON CRISP WHITE PLATES.

POPPADOMS COME WITH A RICH MANGO CHUTNEY, LIME PICKLE, ONION SALAD AND MINT SAUCE WITHOUT EVEN HAVING TO ASK.

I'VE NEVER SPENT MORE THAN Â£15 IN ONE VISIT

NO ATTITUDE, FAB INDIAN - A MUST TO TRY - A SHORT WALK FROM BARS AND LIFE OF ANGEL

LOVE IT!!!!

Bacchus - CLOSED - Bacchus - 13 June 2008 by Food_Snob

Food_Snob — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:13:14 +0000

Review by Food_Snob

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 7739 7176

Website: http://www.bacchus-restaurant.co.uk/

Tags: friendly, good value, international

I appreciate it is no longer open, but I still thought I would share these notes I made a couple of months ago...

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/category/restaurant-reviews/bacchus-restaurant-reviews/

Text-only Critique:

Carbonation, emulsification, oil spherification, vacuum distillationâ¬¦alright, settle down, I am not reviewing el Bulli, itâ¬"s not Fat Duck either (well, this week anyway), but of course you already know this from the post heading. Yes, it is Bacchus of Hoxton. Of where? Of Hoxton. You would be forgiven for not having heard of it before; it is a pretty miserable, impoverished and ugly area just north of the City, so miserable, impoverished and ugly in fact, it is rather trendy. Actually, it is not all bad; Hoxton did give the world the Kray twins, Lenny McLean (actor, bouncer, bare-knuckle boxer and â¬Ühardest man in Britainâ¬") and Jamie Oliver. Well, OKâ¬¦maybe it is that bad.

I had never before been and most probably never would have gone to Hoxton were it not â¬Üthanksâ¬" to Nuno Mendes. Nestled away behind a council estate, a few minutesâ¬" walk from Old Street, sits his Bacchus; former pub, current laboratoire gastronomique, or more appropriately, laboratÃ³rio gastronÃ´mico. Chef Nuno, formerly of el Bulli and Jean-Georges, has established an impressive outpost (or blockhouse, considering the neighbourhood) of creative cooking. His mission is to bring avant-garde cuisine to the masses; his motto, â¬Üfine dining in trainersâ¬".

The restaurant its very self is a combination of contrasts: well-maintained, large and painted completely white, it stands out clean and precise amongst grubbier surroundings; yet, it is also slightly anonymous, the signage almost unnoticeable and the front door easy to miss. However, it works.

Entering the restaurant, you are instantly absorbed by a welcoming, comfy ambience: windows draped with heavy curtains, warm woods and candles on each table combine to create a disarming charm. The faux Parisian bar and open kitchen add a further layer of intimacy, allowing guests to watch the chefs at play and encouraging a fuller dining experience.

After being greeted at the door, I was politely escorted to a table where the menu, printed on a single sheet of paper, awaited me. There were only two choices: the full tasting menu, 7 courses, Â£60 or the reduced tasting menu, 4 courses, Â£45. Brilliant! Bacchus made it too easy. Both my sad inability to make quick, decisive dish choices and my desire to sample as much of the menu as possible (reading between the lines - eat as much as I can), were simultaneously neutralised; the full menu please. However, because I do not eat pork, I had to request one dish, Umami: Del Mar La Montagna - Memories of San Sebastian, be substituted. Although informed this would not be a problem for the kitchen, I was quite disappointed. I had already learnt that Chef Nuno had a special fondness for San Sebastian, so I could not help but expect that this dish was close to his heart and probably something rather special. Câ¬"est la vie!

My order dispatched, I sat back and contemplated the menu. I had barely started this when I was distracted by the appearance of Chef Nuno himself, who looks like a cross between artist, mad scientist and wizard, hunched over a large canister at the serving station. Suddenly, a mysterious mist, oozing out this magic container, began to envelop his features; I was immensely curious. After some more technical, scientific â¬Üfiddlingâ¬", the sorcererâ¬"s, sorry, chefâ¬"s creation was presented to me.

â¬SYour first amuse boucheâ¬¦â¬ I was probably as excited at the intimation that more surprises from the kitchen were to follow as I was to discover what I had before me, â¬Sâ¬¦nitro cocktail of ginger and whiskey, ginger and whiskey tea.â¬ Liquid nitrogen had been used to transform the cocktail from liquid to cold, refreshing solid, lumps of which now floated in a sharp, yet sweet pool of tea that had been poured tableside. It was a pleasant surprise.

A selection of breads were then brought out: olive oil infused savoury biscotti, cinnamon & icing sugar Pain Ã la Grecque, parmesan choux, romanesco sauce. I thought this an interesting take on traditional bread and butter service. Not only did the taste differ, but each offering varied in texture. Each was pleasant, but the melt-in-your-mouth choux was my favourite.

A second amuse bouche followed. Parmesan Porridge, Mushroom ConsommÃ©. I liked the consommÃ©, but wasnâ¬"t moved by the porridge; my clumsy palate could not taste the parmesan nor did I find the mixture creamier for the alleged cheese.

First course: Kingfish Sashimi; strawberries, almonds, foie gras. I imagine it is dishes like this that detractors of avant-garde cooking drool over; the personification of ponciness, random foods thrown on a plate, blah blah blah. I loved it. Juicy fish, prepared simply with olive oil, sake, and strawberry puree whose acidic sweetness cut through the fish; a heavenly morsel of foie gras; almond crumbs providing a contrast in texture; and sweet, fresh strawberry gel and creamy fennel spread linking the components together. I was left wanting more; a good sign.

Second course: Asparagus Chawanmushi; textures of asparagus, confit clams, milk kappa. Chawâ¬¦chawâ¬¦chawanwhat? I found out later this is a Japanese egg custard. A ceramic pot, sealed with a lid upon which sprigs of asparagus and succulent clams were enveloped in thin peppercorn-infused milk feuilles was brought out. The lid was lifted to reveal a poached egg atop an egg and parmesan custard. I could not get enough of what was on the lid, but, though the egg was well cooked, I found the Chawanmushi forgettable.

Third course: Oysters & Onions Old But New. This dish was able to show off the skill of the chef. Those who have heard of el Bulli may have also heard of the liquid pea ravioli served there; Chef Nuno applies the same technique, spherification, here. Sodium alginate and calcium chloride are added to onion soup to induce a chemical reaction, creating a very thin skin made only of the soup itself.

For the diner, this means two perfect bubbles of rich onion potage bathing in onion jus, upon which lay a slice of savoury biscotti topped with a dollop of oysters tartare, pomegranate seeds and charlotte pepper mÃ©lange.

Only recently I was served an oyster amuse bouche at le Bristol prepared in the same fashion, so though not my first exposure to spherification, it was nonetheless interesting and impressive. However, it was also my least favourite dish. I thought the individual flavours robust, but found it difficult to enjoy the ingredients together, due mainly to the physical impediment of having to eat the bulle dâ¬"air de soupe in one go (otherwise a big onion-y mess would result). Still, marks for effort.

Fourth course: In place of the San Sebastian tribute dish, came langoustine, pine nuts, smoked aubergine, honshimeji mushrooms, spring onions (this less than sexy title is my own manufacture). Mon Dieu! Any worries left over from the previous dish, were absolutely demolished; this was delicious. Tender langoustine, smoky aubergine, sweet mushroom, sweeter onion; each ingredient was superb and superbly partnered.

I was told that this was a new dish the Chef was developing for future menus, causing me to infer that I was some sort of gastronomic guinea pigâ¬¦never was there a more grateful test-subject! I must also mention the gentle, enchanting aroma of this dish; smell your food people!

Fifth course: Red Mullet Toast & Liquorice; courgette & crab, blood orange & saffron. A delicate courgette flower stuffed with creamy crab mousse and coconut tofu carrÃ© lay immersed together in a bath of blood orange, saffron, enoki mushrooms and liquorice cubes. Resting on the rim of the plate was a perfectly cooked, tasty red mullet fillet under a thin savoury cracker upon which nestled crunchy flowers. Sounds good? It was good. The red mullet, one of my favourite fish, and crab-stuffed flower really stood out for me. I would have preferred a stronger taste to the tofu and liquorice, which unfortunately, I found a little bland and I am also not a huge fan of oranges, but I cannot blame the kitchen for this. Coincidentally, the preparation of the fish was reminiscent of line-fished whiting from Saint-Gilles in a bread crust, yet another le Bristol offering.

Sixth course: Slow Cooked Squab; mangosteen, edamame beans, rhubarb, garlic. Sacredieu! Another stunning dish; it looked sexy, it tasted sexy, it even smelt sexy. The perfect pigeon was prepared in two ways; one portion came as a beautiful chunk of pigeon breast sat in a bed of soy beans, whilst another as a selection of different cuts entrenched with a plump mangosteen in sweet, piquant rhubarb jam. A smooth soy puree added further flourish to the plate. This was a feast for the eyes; the contrast between the beautiful falu red of the bird and summer garden green of the soy was evocative and arresting.

Seventh course: White Chocolate Mousse; mango, passion fruit gel, ginger iced milk, gingerbread crumbs. This was an excellent conclusion to the meal; light and refreshing, fruity and spicy, one was left suitably satisfied instead of sickly surfeit. A thick white chocolate sponge laden with sweet mango jelly and crunchy vanilla chilli tuile was served along with smooth ice cream spiced with ginger and atop ginger crumble. Embellishing the dish was a pool of passion fruit gel, stroke of pineapple oil and fantastic black olive caramel bubble. Sweet versus sharp was the major theme here, with a subtle interplay of textures in the background.

Petit Fours: Crema Catalana, passion fruit sponge, financier, chocolate truffle. A decent selection of PFs helped me digest my espresso. The crema Catalana was creamy and spot on sweet; the sponge was forgettable; and though I am generally indifferent towards financiers, I admit this was a fine example. I was glad I left the glorious truffle till last. One bite and I was in love - deep, velvety smooth and so wrong. I would have been happy had a single truffle been served to me as dessert.

After all this, it would be fair to assume that I was embarrassingly, uncomfortably stuffed - not so. Even though each plate left me wanting more - due to the profusion of flavours rather than paucity of quantity - I was indeed full, however, it was more of a belt-hugging-belly-dutifully satiety that felt very well earned. This is thanks to the light use of dairy and carbohydrates in Chef Nunoâ¬"s cooking, making the meal, for those calorie-conscious, a lot less guilt-inducing. This does not mean that anything is sacrificed: the always-evolving dishes are lessons in how the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Classic and unconventional ingredients are employed to create a full taste-texture-colour-smell experience. In a manner that stoked my memories of Alain Passardâ¬"s cooking, the Chef aims, through interesting combinations and much-perfected cooking methods, to extract and enhance the foodsâ¬" own natural flavours.

Bacchus is a genuinely delightful experience and one I would well encourage. The food is well thought out, well designed, well crafted, well presented and well worth itâ¬¦I do not want to gush, but after successive disappointments dining out, I am pleased to have finally left a restaurant with a fat smile on my face and warm feeling in my belly. The food needs no further tribute. The staff, polite, friendly, inquisitive, are each genuinely interested in your thoughts and share their own, encouraging a refreshingly honest dialogue; over my meal, I had a conversation with each of the three serveurs and Chef Nuno himself came out to meet his patrons. Throughout the evening, I had already observed him at the serving station diligently analysing every single dish as it left his kitchen; he is obviously someone who cares about his cooking and enjoys it too. In person, he is charming, passionate and intense and I was instantly won over by him.

I am glad that Bacchusâ¬" star is indeed rising; professional and â¬Üvoluntaryâ¬" reviews are becoming more consistent in their applause and were it not for Michelin inspectorsâ¬" emphasis and preference for classic, formal French cuisine, Bacchus would surely be starred, but I do not think that Chef Nuno is too concerned about this. He is more focused on his mission to make fine dining accessible to a wider audience and I do believe he is succeeding; the varied crowd I dined with - a pair of foreign tourists/bloggers (they were snapping photos of their food), a family celebrating something, a well dressed elderly couple and a group of mid-twenty-somethings in jeans and trainers - are testament to this.

177 Hoxton Street, London, N1 6PJ
tel: 020 7613 0477
nearest tube: Old Street, Farringdon
www.bacchus-restaurant.co.uk

I appreciate it is no longer open, but I still thought I would share these notes I made a couple of months ago...

Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/category/restaurant-reviews/bacchus-restaurant-reviews/

Text-only Critique:

Carbonation, emulsification, oil spherification, vacuum distillationâ¬¦alright, settle down, I am not reviewing el Bulli, itâ¬"s not Fat Duck either (well, this week anyway), but of course you already know this from the post heading. Yes, it is Bacchus of Hoxton. Of where? Of Hoxton. You would be forgiven for not having heard of it before; it is a pretty miserable, impoverished and ugly area just north of the City, so miserable, impoverished and ugly in fact, it is rather trendy. Actually, it is not all bad; Hoxton did give the world the Kray twins, Lenny McLean (actor, bouncer, bare-knuckle boxer and â¬Ühardest man in Britainâ¬") and Jamie Oliver. Well, OKâ¬¦maybe it is that bad.

I had never before been and most probably never would have gone to Hoxton were it not â¬Üthanksâ¬" to Nuno Mendes. Nestled away behind a council estate, a few minutesâ¬" walk from Old Street, sits his Bacchus; former pub, current laboratoire gastronomique, or more appropriately, laboratÃ³rio gastronÃ´mico. Chef Nuno, formerly of el Bulli and Jean-Georges, has established an impressive outpost (or blockhouse, considering the neighbourhood) of creative cooking. His mission is to bring avant-garde cuisine to the masses; his motto, â¬Üfine dining in trainersâ¬".

The restaurant its very self is a combination of contrasts: well-maintained, large and painted completely white, it stands out clean and precise amongst grubbier surroundings; yet, it is also slightly anonymous, the signage almost unnoticeable and the front door easy to miss. However, it works.

Entering the restaurant, you are instantly absorbed by a welcoming, comfy ambience: windows draped with heavy curtains, warm woods and candles on each table combine to create a disarming charm. The faux Parisian bar and open kitchen add a further layer of intimacy, allowing guests to watch the chefs at play and encouraging a fuller dining experience.

After being greeted at the door, I was politely escorted to a table where the menu, printed on a single sheet of paper, awaited me. There were only two choices: the full tasting menu, 7 courses, Â£60 or the reduced tasting menu, 4 courses, Â£45. Brilliant! Bacchus made it too easy. Both my sad inability to make quick, decisive dish choices and my desire to sample as much of the menu as possible (reading between the lines - eat as much as I can), were simultaneously neutralised; the full menu please. However, because I do not eat pork, I had to request one dish, Umami: Del Mar La Montagna - Memories of San Sebastian, be substituted. Although informed this would not be a problem for the kitchen, I was quite disappointed. I had already learnt that Chef Nuno had a special fondness for San Sebastian, so I could not help but expect that this dish was close to his heart and probably something rather special. Câ¬"est la vie!

My order dispatched, I sat back and contemplated the menu. I had barely started this when I was distracted by the appearance of Chef Nuno himself, who looks like a cross between artist, mad scientist and wizard, hunched over a large canister at the serving station. Suddenly, a mysterious mist, oozing out this magic container, began to envelop his features; I was immensely curious. After some more technical, scientific â¬Üfiddlingâ¬", the sorcererâ¬"s, sorry, chefâ¬"s creation was presented to me.

â¬SYour first amuse boucheâ¬¦â¬ I was probably as excited at the intimation that more surprises from the kitchen were to follow as I was to discover what I had before me, â¬Sâ¬¦nitro cocktail of ginger and whiskey, ginger and whiskey tea.â¬ Liquid nitrogen had been used to transform the cocktail from liquid to cold, refreshing solid, lumps of which now floated in a sharp, yet sweet pool of tea that had been poured tableside. It was a pleasant surprise.

A selection of breads were then brought out: olive oil infused savoury biscotti, cinnamon & icing sugar Pain Ã la Grecque, parmesan choux, romanesco sauce. I thought this an interesting take on traditional bread and butter service. Not only did the taste differ, but each offering varied in texture. Each was pleasant, but the melt-in-your-mouth choux was my favourite.

A second amuse bouche followed. Parmesan Porridge, Mushroom ConsommÃ©. I liked the consommÃ©, but wasnâ¬"t moved by the porridge; my clumsy palate could not taste the parmesan nor did I find the mixture creamier for the alleged cheese.

First course: Kingfish Sashimi; strawberries, almonds, foie gras. I imagine it is dishes like this that detractors of avant-garde cooking drool over; the personification of ponciness, random foods thrown on a plate, blah blah blah. I loved it. Juicy fish, prepared simply with olive oil, sake, and strawberry puree whose acidic sweetness cut through the fish; a heavenly morsel of foie gras; almond crumbs providing a contrast in texture; and sweet, fresh strawberry gel and creamy fennel spread linking the components together. I was left wanting more; a good sign.

Second course: Asparagus Chawanmushi; textures of asparagus, confit clams, milk kappa. Chawâ¬¦chawâ¬¦chawanwhat? I found out later this is a Japanese egg custard. A ceramic pot, sealed with a lid upon which sprigs of asparagus and succulent clams were enveloped in thin peppercorn-infused milk feuilles was brought out. The lid was lifted to reveal a poached egg atop an egg and parmesan custard. I could not get enough of what was on the lid, but, though the egg was well cooked, I found the Chawanmushi forgettable.

Third course: Oysters & Onions Old But New. This dish was able to show off the skill of the chef. Those who have heard of el Bulli may have also heard of the liquid pea ravioli served there; Chef Nuno applies the same technique, spherification, here. Sodium alginate and calcium chloride are added to onion soup to induce a chemical reaction, creating a very thin skin made only of the soup itself.

For the diner, this means two perfect bubbles of rich onion potage bathing in onion jus, upon which lay a slice of savoury biscotti topped with a dollop of oysters tartare, pomegranate seeds and charlotte pepper mÃ©lange.

Only recently I was served an oyster amuse bouche at le Bristol prepared in the same fashion, so though not my first exposure to spherification, it was nonetheless interesting and impressive. However, it was also my least favourite dish. I thought the individual flavours robust, but found it difficult to enjoy the ingredients together, due mainly to the physical impediment of having to eat the bulle dâ¬"air de soupe in one go (otherwise a big onion-y mess would result). Still, marks for effort.

Fourth course: In place of the San Sebastian tribute dish, came langoustine, pine nuts, smoked aubergine, honshimeji mushrooms, spring onions (this less than sexy title is my own manufacture). Mon Dieu! Any worries left over from the previous dish, were absolutely demolished; this was delicious. Tender langoustine, smoky aubergine, sweet mushroom, sweeter onion; each ingredient was superb and superbly partnered.

I was told that this was a new dish the Chef was developing for future menus, causing me to infer that I was some sort of gastronomic guinea pigâ¬¦never was there a more grateful test-subject! I must also mention the gentle, enchanting aroma of this dish; smell your food people!

Fifth course: Red Mullet Toast & Liquorice; courgette & crab, blood orange & saffron. A delicate courgette flower stuffed with creamy crab mousse and coconut tofu carrÃ© lay immersed together in a bath of blood orange, saffron, enoki mushrooms and liquorice cubes. Resting on the rim of the plate was a perfectly cooked, tasty red mullet fillet under a thin savoury cracker upon which nestled crunchy flowers. Sounds good? It was good. The red mullet, one of my favourite fish, and crab-stuffed flower really stood out for me. I would have preferred a stronger taste to the tofu and liquorice, which unfortunately, I found a little bland and I am also not a huge fan of oranges, but I cannot blame the kitchen for this. Coincidentally, the preparation of the fish was reminiscent of line-fished whiting from Saint-Gilles in a bread crust, yet another le Bristol offering.

Sixth course: Slow Cooked Squab; mangosteen, edamame beans, rhubarb, garlic. Sacredieu! Another stunning dish; it looked sexy, it tasted sexy, it even smelt sexy. The perfect pigeon was prepared in two ways; one portion came as a beautiful chunk of pigeon breast sat in a bed of soy beans, whilst another as a selection of different cuts entrenched with a plump mangosteen in sweet, piquant rhubarb jam. A smooth soy puree added further flourish to the plate. This was a feast for the eyes; the contrast between the beautiful falu red of the bird and summer garden green of the soy was evocative and arresting.

Seventh course: White Chocolate Mousse; mango, passion fruit gel, ginger iced milk, gingerbread crumbs. This was an excellent conclusion to the meal; light and refreshing, fruity and spicy, one was left suitably satisfied instead of sickly surfeit. A thick white chocolate sponge laden with sweet mango jelly and crunchy vanilla chilli tuile was served along with smooth ice cream spiced with ginger and atop ginger crumble. Embellishing the dish was a pool of passion fruit gel, stroke of pineapple oil and fantastic black olive caramel bubble. Sweet versus sharp was the major theme here, with a subtle interplay of textures in the background.

Petit Fours: Crema Catalana, passion fruit sponge, financier, chocolate truffle. A decent selection of PFs helped me digest my espresso. The crema Catalana was creamy and spot on sweet; the sponge was forgettable; and though I am generally indifferent towards financiers, I admit this was a fine example. I was glad I left the glorious truffle till last. One bite and I was in love - deep, velvety smooth and so wrong. I would have been happy had a single truffle been served to me as dessert.

After all this, it would be fair to assume that I was embarrassingly, uncomfortably stuffed - not so. Even though each plate left me wanting more - due to the profusion of flavours rather than paucity of quantity - I was indeed full, however, it was more of a belt-hugging-belly-dutifully satiety that felt very well earned. This is thanks to the light use of dairy and carbohydrates in Chef Nunoâ¬"s cooking, making the meal, for those calorie-conscious, a lot less guilt-inducing. This does not mean that anything is sacrificed: the always-evolving dishes are lessons in how the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Classic and unconventional ingredients are employed to create a full taste-texture-colour-smell experience. In a manner that stoked my memories of Alain Passardâ¬"s cooking, the Chef aims, through interesting combinations and much-perfected cooking methods, to extract and enhance the foodsâ¬" own natural flavours.

Bacchus is a genuinely delightful experience and one I would well encourage. The food is well thought out, well designed, well crafted, well presented and well worth itâ¬¦I do not want to gush, but after successive disappointments dining out, I am pleased to have finally left a restaurant with a fat smile on my face and warm feeling in my belly. The food needs no further tribute. The staff, polite, friendly, inquisitive, are each genuinely interested in your thoughts and share their own, encouraging a refreshingly honest dialogue; over my meal, I had a conversation with each of the three serveurs and Chef Nuno himself came out to meet his patrons. Throughout the evening, I had already observed him at the serving station diligently analysing every single dish as it left his kitchen; he is obviously someone who cares about his cooking and enjoys it too. In person, he is charming, passionate and intense and I was instantly won over by him.

I am glad that Bacchusâ¬" star is indeed rising; professional and â¬Üvoluntaryâ¬" reviews are becoming more consistent in their applause and were it not for Michelin inspectorsâ¬" emphasis and preference for classic, formal French cuisine, Bacchus would surely be starred, but I do not think that Chef Nuno is too concerned about this. He is more focused on his mission to make fine dining accessible to a wider audience and I do believe he is succeeding; the varied crowd I dined with - a pair of foreign tourists/bloggers (they were snapping photos of their food), a family celebrating something, a well dressed elderly couple and a group of mid-twenty-somethings in jeans and trainers - are testament to this.

177 Hoxton Street, London, N1 6PJ
tel: 020 7613 0477
nearest tube: Old Street, Farringdon
www.bacchus-restaurant.co.uk