St. John - St John � Twice as Nice by laissezfare

laissezfare — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 18:16:44 +0000

Review by laissezfare

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7251 0848

Website: http://www.stjohnrestaurant.com/

[Non-photo Review]

For full review go to: http://wp.me/pwXBH-tC

St John â¬ Twice as Nice

The gist of it: St John serves simple, honest, delicious food that brings out the best of what its often humble ingredients can be. The dining space mirrors head chef Hendersonâ¬"s paired down philosophy and is reminiscent of a posh school canteen for grown-ups...in a good way. The thing about St John is that, while itâ¬"s brilliant, there should be places like this in every town across the UK, where you can find well-cooked everyday dishes that wonâ¬"t blow the bank. Itâ¬"s the kind of food you might have gotten at your Nanâ¬"s or Auntieâ¬"s house in days gone by, and itâ¬"s not rocket science, after all. If you havenâ¬"t been, by all means go, if only to taste the marrow and sample one of their brilliant puddings. I just canâ¬"t believe there arenâ¬"t more places like this in London and elsewhere throughout Britain.

Sundays at St John

St John had been on my hit list for a long time â¬ too long. So, when the weather began cooling and the days got darker, and when my stomach began craving for heart-warming comfort food, I happily discovered that St John was open for Sunday lunches. What a brilliant idea, I thought, and promptly booked myself in for the upcoming weekend.

I think that most readers of this blog will already know as much (or more) about St John, and its head chef Fergus Henderson, than I do, so I will spare you all of the literally gory details here. Suffice to say that the original outpost is located just opposite the Smithfield meat market in 1994 and that the building was formerly a smokehouse. Henderson is well-known for his â¬Ünose-to-tail eatingâ¬" philosophy (in fact, this was the title of his first cookbook), and the interior of the restaurant mirrors his style of food: it is paired down, simple and honest.

In 2003, Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver opened a second branch, imaginatively called St John Bread and Wine, near Spitalfields market (spot the trend?). The original restaurantâ¬"s baking operations had outgrown its existing baking capabilities, so this new site took care of the new baking needs and also housed a smaller, less formal restaurant serving food and drink throughout the day.

As you will read further down, Mrs. LF and I so much enjoyed our first visit to St John that we immediately booked Sunday lunch for the very next week upon leaving. So this review comprises two meals on two consecutive Sundays.

Meal 1: Initiation

It was a typically bleak autumn afternoon as we made our way East to the City of London, gliding stealthily beneath its dragon-crowned gates in the anonymity of the Circle Line. I had only ever seen St John from the outside, and didnâ¬"t realize there was a little bakery and bar on the ground floor, with the main restaurant on a slightly raised level up a small flight of stairs.

We made our way up and found the place to be about half full but with a nice but quiet buzz about it. Our waitress took us to our little table for two, which was nestled very cosily against the right wall. After being given the paper menu (a good deal of the dishes change every day, with only a few fixtures/signature dishes such as the infamous marrow), we were served some bread. It was a wonderful loaf of sourdough with a great crust and bags of perfect sourdough flavor. We loved it. And one of my unofficial rules that normally holds true in restaurants is that, if the bread is excellent, there is a very good chance youâ¬"re in for some good food, too.

We eventually ordered and took stock of the place. It is pretty much what I expected. Stark, basic, and mostly white. Industrial looking light fixtures, bistro-style wooden chairs, paper table cloths on top of the real ones, silverware that you can tell has been well used, waiting staff in kitchen whites. But most importantly, all of the diners there seemed to be genuinely having a good time. It was a posh school canteen for grown-ups.

After attempting to turn my eyes into binoculars while peering past the pass in the kitchen, to see what offal tricks these culinary wizards were conjuring, and soaking everything in, our efficient waitress came back with our starters.

Starter 1: Roast Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad
And what a starter. Phwoah â¬ just look at those bad boys! This was the signature dish I had been waiting to order. Despite my expectations being ridiculously high for what is after all a very simple dish, I was not let down one bit. This was one of the best and most satisfying things Iâ¬"ve shoved down my gob in recent memory. It just worked on every level. The marrow was rich and smooth, with a half liquidized fat texture. Spread across the perfectly toasted bread (which was the right thickness for the dish), sprinkled with a bit of that chunky gray salt, and topped off with a good dose of fresh parsley and onions (with a faultless vinaigrette), I was eating way too fast. You had richness that was accented by salt and shot through the heart with fresh green acidity; you had smooth, you had crunchy you had chewy. It was all thereâ¬¦for about 2 minutes that is. Mrs. LF concurred and, had she been able to stomach it, would have had much more of it than she did (thank God she is slim and didnâ¬"t have the stomach for it!). No doubt, 10/10.

Starter 2: Split Pea Soup
Meanwhile, she was slurping up another wonderfully simple and rustic dish, a bowl of split pea soup. And what it lacked in looks, it certainly made up for in taste. It was one of the best pea soups Iâ¬"ve had, hands down. Pure sweet pea flavor, perfectly seasoned, with a great thick but not-too-thick texture, we couldnâ¬"t really fault it. Mrs. LF informed me that when she was growing up in the Normandy countryside, they often began their meals with a simple vegetable soup, and she thought it a great start to the meal. 9/10.

Main Course 1: Ox Heart, Carrots & Aioli
For my main course, I ordered something I had never eaten before â¬ we were in St John, after all. The ox heart had been masterfully cooked, being seared on the outside but with a very soft and buttery core (zoom in on the second photo to see what Iâ¬"m talking about), and I loved the way it felt in my mouth. The taste was quite full-on; after all, it is a frigginâ¬" heart weâ¬"re talking about. It is quite a lean meat (being a muscle), and you can taste its high mineral content on your palate (itâ¬"s high in both iron and copper), but not unpleasantly so. It had a nice little accompanying sauce and a lovely aioli on the side, which was good because it needed a little kick from time to time. I could see how eating the meat itself could become monotonous after a while as for me it wasnâ¬"t like a sumptuous steak youâ¬"d keep coming back to again and again without relief. For this reason the aioli and the simply cooked sweet carrots were well thought-out partners. Overall, I was really glad I tried this dish and enjoyed it. Would I order it again? Not necessarily, but it was well worth the experience. 7/10.

Main Course 2: Smoked Eel, Beetroot & Horseradish
Mrs. LF couldnâ¬"t believe how good her dish of smoked eel was, and neither could I when I tasted it. She commented that it had a â¬Srich and strong taste of eel, yet it was perfectly balanced, so flavorsome and distinct and unlike any other seafood dish Iâ¬"d had. The beetroot, which I never really loved before, was outstanding; it was as if they had marinated or cooked in some kind of vinegar, and that sharpness was the perfect accompaniment for the intense taste of the eel. I truly enjoyed this dish for its authenticity and honesty. 10/10.â¬

Dessert: Plum Jelly & Shortbread
The puddingsâ¬¦oohâ¬¦the puddings. My god, they all sounded so simple, so satisfying, so good. But alas, as one of Catherine Tateâ¬"s characters might say, â¬Swe was well fullâ¬ by then. So we decided to split one and rolled the dessert dice. Thank God we came up trumps.

We simply loved this dessert. It was a perfect jelly â¬ firm yet with a bit of wobble â¬ whose creators had achieved the miracle of blissful balance between the sweet and tart. But jelly on its own is not a proper pudding. Luckily, the good folks at St John agreed, and provided some cooked plums on the side, as well as a dollop of thick cream and two of the best rectangles of homemade shortbread Iâ¬"ve had. Just like the marrow, salad and toast â¬ it just all worked together. We wanted another one, but in the end, we were good little adult canteen goers. 9/10.

Meal 2: Conversion?
With an overwhelmingly positive first meal at St John, we were back the next Sunday, same bat time, same bat channel. But could Fergusâ¬" kitchen charm us twice?

Starter 1: Squid & Tomato
I had also heard good things about their calamari, and as they were on the menu that Sunday, I went for it. I was a bit underwhelmed. They were a little firmer than I thought they should be, but had good, sweet flavor and were well seasoned (like everything else at St John). The peppery rocket and sweet tomato provided good contrasts in both taste and texture, and I ate it quite happily though it was nothing compared to those towers of shins the week before. 6/10.

Starter 2: Pea & Ham Soup
Given Mrs. LFâ¬"s previously mentioned predisposition for a simple potage as the opening to the show, she again opted for the pea soup, although on this day there was some ham too. It was again an extremely satisfying soup which did everything it could possibly have. 9/10 once again.

Main Course 1: Whole Grouse with Bread Sauce & Grouse PÃ¢tÃ© on Toast
Being bang in the middle of grouse season, I thought I would have my first grouse of the year, and for that matter, my first grouse ever so far as I can remember. I knew that this bird has a very pronounced flavor, and I hoped I would like it. I was delighted to see that when I cut into the meat, it had been skilfully cooked â¬ perfectly reddish-pink in the middle. It did indeed have a strong flavor, which is quite hard to describe if youâ¬"ve never had it. Gamey and rich, I did enjoy it but didnâ¬"t fall in love. It does have a wonderful texture to it, though. I liked it best when eaten with some bread sauce (I needed that sweetness), and while Iâ¬"m sure youâ¬"d be hard pressed to find a better grouse that was better cooked in the UK, I just donâ¬"t think this bird is my bag. Saying that, the accompanying little slice of crispy toast with grouse pÃ¢tÃ© was divine, and they were right to only include one as it was insanely rich. I will give it a 7/10 because I think it was a well-executed dish but one whose main component wasnâ¬"t really to my taste.

Main Course 2: Braised Hare & Mash
Of her main course, Mrs. LF said: â¬SI chose this dish because I love rabbit, and since I never had hare before I thought that it would have similar taste to rabbit but in a more gamey way, which I imagined Iâ¬"d like. And like it I did. It had that raw, rural feel to it that reminded me of French boeuf mode (although not with beef!). The hare was perfectly braised, with the meat threading off the bone, and the rich sauce with its bits of carrots and onion was rustic and just right. 9/10.â¬

After being mildly disappointed so far, more with my menu selections than with the cooking itself, I was looking forward to those glorious puddings even more.

Dessert 1: Poached Plums & Spiced Ice Cream
After much heated debate, I had finally opted for the poached plums. After the success of last weekâ¬"s dessert, I was again a little let down with this course. Not that it was bad, far from it. It just didnâ¬"t deliver that punch I had been expecting. The plums were well poached and had a nice sweet and sour flavor about them. The ice cream was pleasant if a bit forgettable, and the toast was a good vessel for soaking up the juice of the plums. But the real reason for my mild state of depression was that Mrs. LF was going on about how great her dessert was. So, being me, I started to pillage and plunder, which didnâ¬"t go down too well. I would give the plums 7/10.

Dessert 2: Baked Egg Custard & Blueberries
Yes, now this was the business. This is what I had been dreaming about, another proper pudding that could hold its weight against last weekâ¬"s finale. The custard was thick, sweet and extremely more-ish. This was especially the case when you ate it in tandem with a little bit of the sweet blueberry compote. And those shortbreads were back again, there for dipping, dunking, defiling. As the little dog from the Churchill ad says, â¬SOh, yesâ¬. So we had our happy ending, the meal had been pulled back from the brink of slight disappointment. 9/10.

Parting Thoughts & Shots

Despite the fact that I didnâ¬"t particularly like some of what I ordered on our second visit, St John now holds a special place in both my, and my fair ladyâ¬"s, heart. We love the simply prepared and delicious food and the placeâ¬"s complete and utter lack of pretence. As I mentioned before, you get the best of what these often modest ingredients have to offer at St John. And if you like one of the meats or fish in particular, they are almost guaranteed to make a great dish out of it for you. I think their puddings deserve a special mention, because they are just so satisfying â¬ no tricks, gimmicks or unnecessary components, just plain good combinations.

One thing we did discuss at the end of our second meal was the fact that while most people think of St John as a thoroughly British affair, weâ¬"re not quite so sure. Of course, Henderson is a British chef, and some of the ingredients (i.e. the grouse I had) are native to the British Isles. But Mrs. LF reckons that the majority of the cooking techniques in the kitchen are, at their heart, those of good French home cooking. To wit, the flawless vinaigrette on my parsley salad, the hearty potages and the sauces. And she was also quick to point out that Britain is not the only country that utilizes a wide range of cheaper cuts of meat in its menus, as French country and bistro cooking does as well. Sure, the puddings are mostly British, but I think the woman makes a good point.

Another thing one might consider is the fact that some people reckon that St John is the 14th best restaurant in the world. While I would say it is probably a unique restaurant in my experience with London dining establishments â¬ and maybe the wider UK â¬ I think that, if true, this is a very sad fact.

Again, Mrs. LF piped up with some insightful thoughts, saying: â¬SYes, it is unique, but it shouldnâ¬"t be. There should be loads of places like St John all over the country. Itâ¬"s not rocket science after all. Not everyone wants poncy fine dining, but people should have ready access to this kind of food â¬ theyâ¬"re not cooking foie gras, caviar and truffles, are they? Every single town in England should have a place like St John â¬ I mean, why donâ¬"t British pubs, those ancient symbols of tradition, serve food like this? St John represents the things that are disappearing from our lives (not just in Britain, but in France too), where once upon a time you could eat like this every day, even at your family table. I mean, this is the kind of food youâ¬"d go to get at your best Auntieâ¬"s or Grandmaâ¬"s house.â¬

And this is unfortunately what makes St John unique; it is exactly that kind of amazing home cooked food that we should all be having much more of, both at home and when we decide to eat out.

But whatever the case, what is clear is that St John is surely worth a visit. For my money, I canâ¬"t imagine a better place to enjoy a leisurely Sunday lunch in the din of winter.

And one last thing. If you do believe it is the 14th best restaurant in the world, it is certainly pretty easy to get a table here compared to some of the others on that list. So go already.

Rating

Ambience: 8/10

For full review go to: http://wp.me/pwXBH-tC

St John â¬ Twice as Nice

The gist of it: St John serves simple, honest, delicious food that brings out the best of what its often humble ingredients can be. The dining space mirrors head chef Hendersonâ¬"s paired down philosophy and is reminiscent of a posh school canteen for grown-ups...in a good way. The thing about St John is that, while itâ¬"s brilliant, there should be places like this in every town across the UK, where you can find well-cooked everyday dishes that wonâ¬"t blow the bank. Itâ¬"s the kind of food you might have gotten at your Nanâ¬"s or Auntieâ¬"s house in days gone by, and itâ¬"s not rocket science, after all. If you havenâ¬"t been, by all means go, if only to taste the marrow and sample one of their brilliant puddings. I just canâ¬"t believe there arenâ¬"t more places like this in London and elsewhere throughout Britain.

Sundays at St John

St John had been on my hit list for a long time â¬ too long. So, when the weather began cooling and the days got darker, and when my stomach began craving for heart-warming comfort food, I happily discovered that St John was open for Sunday lunches. What a brilliant idea, I thought, and promptly booked myself in for the upcoming weekend.

I think that most readers of this blog will already know as much (or more) about St John, and its head chef Fergus Henderson, than I do, so I will spare you all of the literally gory details here. Suffice to say that the original outpost is located just opposite the Smithfield meat market in 1994 and that the building was formerly a smokehouse. Henderson is well-known for his â¬Ünose-to-tail eatingâ¬" philosophy (in fact, this was the title of his first cookbook), and the interior of the restaurant mirrors his style of food: it is paired down, simple and honest.

In 2003, Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver opened a second branch, imaginatively called St John Bread and Wine, near Spitalfields market (spot the trend?). The original restaurantâ¬"s baking operations had outgrown its existing baking capabilities, so this new site took care of the new baking needs and also housed a smaller, less formal restaurant serving food and drink throughout the day.

As you will read further down, Mrs. LF and I so much enjoyed our first visit to St John that we immediately booked Sunday lunch for the very next week upon leaving. So this review comprises two meals on two consecutive Sundays.

Meal 1: Initiation

It was a typically bleak autumn afternoon as we made our way East to the City of London, gliding stealthily beneath its dragon-crowned gates in the anonymity of the Circle Line. I had only ever seen St John from the outside, and didnâ¬"t realize there was a little bakery and bar on the ground floor, with the main restaurant on a slightly raised level up a small flight of stairs.

We made our way up and found the place to be about half full but with a nice but quiet buzz about it. Our waitress took us to our little table for two, which was nestled very cosily against the right wall. After being given the paper menu (a good deal of the dishes change every day, with only a few fixtures/signature dishes such as the infamous marrow), we were served some bread. It was a wonderful loaf of sourdough with a great crust and bags of perfect sourdough flavor. We loved it. And one of my unofficial rules that normally holds true in restaurants is that, if the bread is excellent, there is a very good chance youâ¬"re in for some good food, too.

We eventually ordered and took stock of the place. It is pretty much what I expected. Stark, basic, and mostly white. Industrial looking light fixtures, bistro-style wooden chairs, paper table cloths on top of the real ones, silverware that you can tell has been well used, waiting staff in kitchen whites. But most importantly, all of the diners there seemed to be genuinely having a good time. It was a posh school canteen for grown-ups.

After attempting to turn my eyes into binoculars while peering past the pass in the kitchen, to see what offal tricks these culinary wizards were conjuring, and soaking everything in, our efficient waitress came back with our starters.

Starter 1: Roast Bone Marrow & Parsley Salad
And what a starter. Phwoah â¬ just look at those bad boys! This was the signature dish I had been waiting to order. Despite my expectations being ridiculously high for what is after all a very simple dish, I was not let down one bit. This was one of the best and most satisfying things Iâ¬"ve shoved down my gob in recent memory. It just worked on every level. The marrow was rich and smooth, with a half liquidized fat texture. Spread across the perfectly toasted bread (which was the right thickness for the dish), sprinkled with a bit of that chunky gray salt, and topped off with a good dose of fresh parsley and onions (with a faultless vinaigrette), I was eating way too fast. You had richness that was accented by salt and shot through the heart with fresh green acidity; you had smooth, you had crunchy you had chewy. It was all thereâ¬¦for about 2 minutes that is. Mrs. LF concurred and, had she been able to stomach it, would have had much more of it than she did (thank God she is slim and didnâ¬"t have the stomach for it!). No doubt, 10/10.

Starter 2: Split Pea Soup
Meanwhile, she was slurping up another wonderfully simple and rustic dish, a bowl of split pea soup. And what it lacked in looks, it certainly made up for in taste. It was one of the best pea soups Iâ¬"ve had, hands down. Pure sweet pea flavor, perfectly seasoned, with a great thick but not-too-thick texture, we couldnâ¬"t really fault it. Mrs. LF informed me that when she was growing up in the Normandy countryside, they often began their meals with a simple vegetable soup, and she thought it a great start to the meal. 9/10.

Main Course 1: Ox Heart, Carrots & Aioli
For my main course, I ordered something I had never eaten before â¬ we were in St John, after all. The ox heart had been masterfully cooked, being seared on the outside but with a very soft and buttery core (zoom in on the second photo to see what Iâ¬"m talking about), and I loved the way it felt in my mouth. The taste was quite full-on; after all, it is a frigginâ¬" heart weâ¬"re talking about. It is quite a lean meat (being a muscle), and you can taste its high mineral content on your palate (itâ¬"s high in both iron and copper), but not unpleasantly so. It had a nice little accompanying sauce and a lovely aioli on the side, which was good because it needed a little kick from time to time. I could see how eating the meat itself could become monotonous after a while as for me it wasnâ¬"t like a sumptuous steak youâ¬"d keep coming back to again and again without relief. For this reason the aioli and the simply cooked sweet carrots were well thought-out partners. Overall, I was really glad I tried this dish and enjoyed it. Would I order it again? Not necessarily, but it was well worth the experience. 7/10.

Main Course 2: Smoked Eel, Beetroot & Horseradish
Mrs. LF couldnâ¬"t believe how good her dish of smoked eel was, and neither could I when I tasted it. She commented that it had a â¬Srich and strong taste of eel, yet it was perfectly balanced, so flavorsome and distinct and unlike any other seafood dish Iâ¬"d had. The beetroot, which I never really loved before, was outstanding; it was as if they had marinated or cooked in some kind of vinegar, and that sharpness was the perfect accompaniment for the intense taste of the eel. I truly enjoyed this dish for its authenticity and honesty. 10/10.â¬

Dessert: Plum Jelly & Shortbread
The puddingsâ¬¦oohâ¬¦the puddings. My god, they all sounded so simple, so satisfying, so good. But alas, as one of Catherine Tateâ¬"s characters might say, â¬Swe was well fullâ¬ by then. So we decided to split one and rolled the dessert dice. Thank God we came up trumps.

We simply loved this dessert. It was a perfect jelly â¬ firm yet with a bit of wobble â¬ whose creators had achieved the miracle of blissful balance between the sweet and tart. But jelly on its own is not a proper pudding. Luckily, the good folks at St John agreed, and provided some cooked plums on the side, as well as a dollop of thick cream and two of the best rectangles of homemade shortbread Iâ¬"ve had. Just like the marrow, salad and toast â¬ it just all worked together. We wanted another one, but in the end, we were good little adult canteen goers. 9/10.

Meal 2: Conversion?
With an overwhelmingly positive first meal at St John, we were back the next Sunday, same bat time, same bat channel. But could Fergusâ¬" kitchen charm us twice?

Starter 1: Squid & Tomato
I had also heard good things about their calamari, and as they were on the menu that Sunday, I went for it. I was a bit underwhelmed. They were a little firmer than I thought they should be, but had good, sweet flavor and were well seasoned (like everything else at St John). The peppery rocket and sweet tomato provided good contrasts in both taste and texture, and I ate it quite happily though it was nothing compared to those towers of shins the week before. 6/10.

Starter 2: Pea & Ham Soup
Given Mrs. LFâ¬"s previously mentioned predisposition for a simple potage as the opening to the show, she again opted for the pea soup, although on this day there was some ham too. It was again an extremely satisfying soup which did everything it could possibly have. 9/10 once again.

Main Course 1: Whole Grouse with Bread Sauce & Grouse PÃ¢tÃ© on Toast
Being bang in the middle of grouse season, I thought I would have my first grouse of the year, and for that matter, my first grouse ever so far as I can remember. I knew that this bird has a very pronounced flavor, and I hoped I would like it. I was delighted to see that when I cut into the meat, it had been skilfully cooked â¬ perfectly reddish-pink in the middle. It did indeed have a strong flavor, which is quite hard to describe if youâ¬"ve never had it. Gamey and rich, I did enjoy it but didnâ¬"t fall in love. It does have a wonderful texture to it, though. I liked it best when eaten with some bread sauce (I needed that sweetness), and while Iâ¬"m sure youâ¬"d be hard pressed to find a better grouse that was better cooked in the UK, I just donâ¬"t think this bird is my bag. Saying that, the accompanying little slice of crispy toast with grouse pÃ¢tÃ© was divine, and they were right to only include one as it was insanely rich. I will give it a 7/10 because I think it was a well-executed dish but one whose main component wasnâ¬"t really to my taste.

Main Course 2: Braised Hare & Mash
Of her main course, Mrs. LF said: â¬SI chose this dish because I love rabbit, and since I never had hare before I thought that it would have similar taste to rabbit but in a more gamey way, which I imagined Iâ¬"d like. And like it I did. It had that raw, rural feel to it that reminded me of French boeuf mode (although not with beef!). The hare was perfectly braised, with the meat threading off the bone, and the rich sauce with its bits of carrots and onion was rustic and just right. 9/10.â¬

After being mildly disappointed so far, more with my menu selections than with the cooking itself, I was looking forward to those glorious puddings even more.

Dessert 1: Poached Plums & Spiced Ice Cream
After much heated debate, I had finally opted for the poached plums. After the success of last weekâ¬"s dessert, I was again a little let down with this course. Not that it was bad, far from it. It just didnâ¬"t deliver that punch I had been expecting. The plums were well poached and had a nice sweet and sour flavor about them. The ice cream was pleasant if a bit forgettable, and the toast was a good vessel for soaking up the juice of the plums. But the real reason for my mild state of depression was that Mrs. LF was going on about how great her dessert was. So, being me, I started to pillage and plunder, which didnâ¬"t go down too well. I would give the plums 7/10.

Dessert 2: Baked Egg Custard & Blueberries
Yes, now this was the business. This is what I had been dreaming about, another proper pudding that could hold its weight against last weekâ¬"s finale. The custard was thick, sweet and extremely more-ish. This was especially the case when you ate it in tandem with a little bit of the sweet blueberry compote. And those shortbreads were back again, there for dipping, dunking, defiling. As the little dog from the Churchill ad says, â¬SOh, yesâ¬. So we had our happy ending, the meal had been pulled back from the brink of slight disappointment. 9/10.

Parting Thoughts & Shots

Despite the fact that I didnâ¬"t particularly like some of what I ordered on our second visit, St John now holds a special place in both my, and my fair ladyâ¬"s, heart. We love the simply prepared and delicious food and the placeâ¬"s complete and utter lack of pretence. As I mentioned before, you get the best of what these often modest ingredients have to offer at St John. And if you like one of the meats or fish in particular, they are almost guaranteed to make a great dish out of it for you. I think their puddings deserve a special mention, because they are just so satisfying â¬ no tricks, gimmicks or unnecessary components, just plain good combinations.

One thing we did discuss at the end of our second meal was the fact that while most people think of St John as a thoroughly British affair, weâ¬"re not quite so sure. Of course, Henderson is a British chef, and some of the ingredients (i.e. the grouse I had) are native to the British Isles. But Mrs. LF reckons that the majority of the cooking techniques in the kitchen are, at their heart, those of good French home cooking. To wit, the flawless vinaigrette on my parsley salad, the hearty potages and the sauces. And she was also quick to point out that Britain is not the only country that utilizes a wide range of cheaper cuts of meat in its menus, as French country and bistro cooking does as well. Sure, the puddings are mostly British, but I think the woman makes a good point.

Another thing one might consider is the fact that some people reckon that St John is the 14th best restaurant in the world. While I would say it is probably a unique restaurant in my experience with London dining establishments â¬ and maybe the wider UK â¬ I think that, if true, this is a very sad fact.

Again, Mrs. LF piped up with some insightful thoughts, saying: â¬SYes, it is unique, but it shouldnâ¬"t be. There should be loads of places like St John all over the country. Itâ¬"s not rocket science after all. Not everyone wants poncy fine dining, but people should have ready access to this kind of food â¬ theyâ¬"re not cooking foie gras, caviar and truffles, are they? Every single town in England should have a place like St John â¬ I mean, why donâ¬"t British pubs, those ancient symbols of tradition, serve food like this? St John represents the things that are disappearing from our lives (not just in Britain, but in France too), where once upon a time you could eat like this every day, even at your family table. I mean, this is the kind of food youâ¬"d go to get at your best Auntieâ¬"s or Grandmaâ¬"s house.â¬

And this is unfortunately what makes St John unique; it is exactly that kind of amazing home cooked food that we should all be having much more of, both at home and when we decide to eat out.

But whatever the case, what is clear is that St John is surely worth a visit. For my money, I canâ¬"t imagine a better place to enjoy a leisurely Sunday lunch in the din of winter.

And one last thing. If you do believe it is the 14th best restaurant in the world, it is certainly pretty easy to get a table here compared to some of the others on that list. So go already.

Rating

Ambience: 8/10

Lizard Lounge - by FoodSlut

FoodSlut — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:00:02 +0000

Review by FoodSlut

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 8989 3991

Bang onBang on

Cafe Gallipoli - what a let down by FoodSlut

FoodSlut — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:58:36 +0000

Review by FoodSlut

Rating: 2.00

Phone: 020 7359 0630

Website: http://www.gallipolicafe.com/

Tags: turkish, lively, expensive

Could be so much better. Mezze was a joke. Meats were greasy. Service was arrogant.
Four times i was asked if i wanted bread. As it happens I didnt becuae it fills you up to much. But any turkish restaurant ive been in brings you bread immediately. This place wanted to charge.
The bill waswhat youd expect in Upper Street but the food wasnt worththe money. Why not just do it properly?
Obviously a business has to make money but when a restaurant is run by businessmen rather than caterers this is what usually happens.Could be so much better. Mezze was a joke. Meats were greasy. Service was arrogant.
Four times i was asked if i wanted bread. As it happens I didnt becuae it fills you up to much. But any turkish restaurant ive been in brings you bread immediately. This place wanted to charge.
The bill waswhat youd expect in Upper Street but the food wasnt worththe money. Why not just do it properly?
Obviously a business has to make money but when a restaurant is run by businessmen rather than caterers this is what usually happens.

Chongs - by FoodSlut

FoodSlut — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:45:50 +0000

Review by FoodSlut

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 8529 3988

oh dear indeed. Very popular with certain types.oh dear indeed. Very popular with certain types.

Sam's Express Takeaway Chingford - by FoodSlut

FoodSlut — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:42:52 +0000

Review by FoodSlut

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 85239394

I think it has new owners. They know how to cook chips. A rarity in London.I think it has new owners. They know how to cook chips. A rarity in London.

L'Artista Ristorante Italiano - by FoodSlut

FoodSlut — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:40:51 +0000

Review by FoodSlut

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 8529 0435

This is the sort of restaurant you dress up for. Food is reasonable. Service is good.This is the sort of restaurant you dress up for. Food is reasonable. Service is good.

Patpong Thai Restaurant - by FoodSlut

FoodSlut — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 08:37:07 +0000

Review by FoodSlut

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 8524 7065

Tags: thai

Patpong is excellent in all respects except for the fact is food is "westernised" ie dumbded down. Always have a good time in here. But for authentic food go to the Robin Hood pub a few miles up the road in the forest. Food is spot on - decor not so!Patpong is excellent in all respects except for the fact is food is "westernised" ie dumbded down. Always have a good time in here. But for authentic food go to the Robin Hood pub a few miles up the road in the forest. Food is spot on - decor not so!

Takari - dinner by rachel1bt

rachel1bt — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:17:09 +0000

Review by rachel1bt

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 020 7836 1628

Tags: indian, good value, family & home feel

Takari was a really good find. It has a great location at the foot of the theatre land, and a really cosy atmosphere.The service was very attentive and helpful and the food was excellent, especially the Jungle Curry. I normally prefer Vindaloo but in this case the quality and lightness of the rice made me enjoy the Jungle Curry and maki even more, and the fish was extremely fresh as I would have expected. All in all a really good place to go for quality Indian food!Takari was a really good find. It has a great location at the foot of the theatre land, and a really cosy atmosphere.The service was very attentive and helpful and the food was excellent, especially the Jungle Curry. I normally prefer Vindaloo but in this case the quality and lightness of the rice made me enjoy the Jungle Curry and maki even more, and the fish was extremely fresh as I would have expected. All in all a really good place to go for quality Indian food!

Silks & Spice - by AliZebu

AliZebu — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:07:25 +0000

Review by AliZebu

Rating: 5.00

Phone: 0871 200 0999

Website: http://www.silksandspice.com

Tags: thai, vegetarian dishes

CLOSED DOWN!

Now a good Thai restaurant called 'Boys'.CLOSED DOWN!

Now a good Thai restaurant called 'Boys'.

Budsara - This "Bud's" for YOU! by AliZebu

AliZebu — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:04:46 +0000

Review by AliZebu

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 8995 5774

Tags: thai, good value, cheap eat

'Budsara' have two branches, one in Fulham Road and one on Chiswick High Road. I have never eaten in this branch but have had food delivered a number of times.

Firstly, it is a few doors away from another good Thai restaurant called 'Boys' - which I rate slightly higher overall than 'Budsara'.
If you were going in and getting a takeaway (I am too lazy and usually just have it delivered!) the SMART option may be to get a couple of dishes from each place as they both do certain things better and have some variance in the menu.

The Fish Cakes served here are good compared to the rubbery ones at 'Boys'.
The "Phad Kra-Praow" is a nice spicy dish I usually have with Chicken.
The Green Curry is certainly good but always seems lacking in sauce and does not have the depth of flavour I crave.
The "Phad Mhee" - stir-fried egg noodles with beanspouts are done better here than in most of the chinese restaurants in the area.

Service has always been fine on the phone, from the delivery person and on the one occasion I went in for a takeaway.

RECOMMENDED!'Budsara' have two branches, one in Fulham Road and one on Chiswick High Road. I have never eaten in this branch but have had food delivered a number of times.

Firstly, it is a few doors away from another good Thai restaurant called 'Boys' - which I rate slightly higher overall than 'Budsara'.
If you were going in and getting a takeaway (I am too lazy and usually just have it delivered!) the SMART option may be to get a couple of dishes from each place as they both do certain things better and have some variance in the menu.

The Fish Cakes served here are good compared to the rubbery ones at 'Boys'.
The "Phad Kra-Praow" is a nice spicy dish I usually have with Chicken.
The Green Curry is certainly good but always seems lacking in sauce and does not have the depth of flavour I crave.
The "Phad Mhee" - stir-fried egg noodles with beanspouts are done better here than in most of the chinese restaurants in the area.

Service has always been fine on the phone, from the delivery person and on the one occasion I went in for a takeaway.

RECOMMENDED!

Boys - "Boys, Boys, Boys - are looking for a good thai!" by AliZebu

AliZebu — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:35:49 +0000

Review by AliZebu

Rating: 4.00

Phone: 020 8995 7991

Tags: thai

I had avoided 'Boys' for a while mainly due to the silly name that sadly evokes British homosexual paedofile's visiting Thailand for nefarious purposes.

When I did finally try the food I found SOME of their dishes to be of a high standard and authentically made.

The menu is not that varied, with a lot of dishes being similar to each other so I miss some foods you can get elsewhere. However, there are some excellent versions here.

The "Keng Kiew Wan" or Thai Green Curry is easily the best I have thus far had in Chiswick and is among my top 5 versions of the dish I have had anywhere, here & abroad.

"Pad Kee Mau" is another standout at 'Boys'. Spicy rice noodles fried up with a choice of meats OR two vegetarian options including Tofu. They always ask how hot I want it on a scale of 1-10.

The vegetable spring rolls are always lovely & crisp - you can tell they are fresh.
The "Tod Man Pla" or spicy fishcakes are NOT quite right, it must be said. They taste like rubber.

Service is always great, both to eat in and when I phone and have it delivered.
Overall 'Boys' is the better choice over 'Budsara' which is only a few doors away, although BOTH do certain dishes better than their competition.

RECOMMENDED!I had avoided 'Boys' for a while mainly due to the silly name that sadly evokes British homosexual paedofile's visiting Thailand for nefarious purposes.

When I did finally try the food I found SOME of their dishes to be of a high standard and authentically made.

The menu is not that varied, with a lot of dishes being similar to each other so I miss some foods you can get elsewhere. However, there are some excellent versions here.

The "Keng Kiew Wan" or Thai Green Curry is easily the best I have thus far had in Chiswick and is among my top 5 versions of the dish I have had anywhere, here & abroad.

"Pad Kee Mau" is another standout at 'Boys'. Spicy rice noodles fried up with a choice of meats OR two vegetarian options including Tofu. They always ask how hot I want it on a scale of 1-10.

The vegetable spring rolls are always lovely & crisp - you can tell they are fresh.
The "Tod Man Pla" or spicy fishcakes are NOT quite right, it must be said. They taste like rubber.

Service is always great, both to eat in and when I phone and have it delivered.
Overall 'Boys' is the better choice over 'Budsara' which is only a few doors away, although BOTH do certain dishes better than their competition.

RECOMMENDED!

Ariana - by Limehouse_Larry

Limehouse_Larry — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 10:57:47 +0000

Review by Limehouse_Larry

Rating: 4.00

Tags: good value, middle eastern, cheap eat

I visited Ariana on the weekend with family and was pleasantly surprised. We had seen the menu before going and it although it seems slightly basic, try not to be put off by it, we tried a sharing platter to start, which also accommodated a vegetarian. They cook the bread on a large hot plate on the premises which is extremely tasty, and although we weren't sure exactly what we were eating, the waiter was happy to explain the dishes. The main courses are plentiful and everything seems to be handled with a a bit of care and attention. Very relaxed atmosphere, friendly staff, bring your own alcohol and a heated patio to enjoy hookah pipes. Well recommended and we'll certainly visit Ariana again.I visited Ariana on the weekend with family and was pleasantly surprised. We had seen the menu before going and it although it seems slightly basic, try not to be put off by it, we tried a sharing platter to start, which also accommodated a vegetarian. They cook the bread on a large hot plate on the premises which is extremely tasty, and although we weren't sure exactly what we were eating, the waiter was happy to explain the dishes. The main courses are plentiful and everything seems to be handled with a a bit of care and attention. Very relaxed atmosphere, friendly staff, bring your own alcohol and a heated patio to enjoy hookah pipes. Well recommended and we'll certainly visit Ariana again.

Tootsies - by AliZebu

AliZebu — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 02:28:20 +0000

Review by AliZebu

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 8747 1869

Website: http://www.tootsiesrestaurants.co.uk

Tags: american, lively, crowded

CLOSED DOWN!CLOSED DOWN!

Gourmet Burger Kitchen - GBK: Good but NOT great! by AliZebu

AliZebu — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 02:27:43 +0000

Review by AliZebu

Rating: 3.00

Phone: 020 8995 4548

Website: http://www.gbkinfo.co.uk

Tags: lively, burgers, good value

I have been to a few GBK's in London and the Chiswick one is large & lively.

The Burgers are obviously good quality but NOT the best I have ever eaten. If I point out one flaw it would be they lack the succulence of some the very best burgers I have had in London.

'Ground' on Chiswick High Road is very similar but ever so slightly better to my tastes.
GBK's chips are BIG and chunky, if you like them that way they are good.

There is a variety of sauces available to put on the burger but they mostly seem to be very COLD which is not a good mix for the hot burger. A little less chilled or preferably room temprature sauces wouls go a long way to improving my opinion of GBK's sandwiches.

Overall this a nice addition to the High Street and well worth at least one visit to check it out.I have been to a few GBK's in London and the Chiswick one is large & lively.

The Burgers are obviously good quality but NOT the best I have ever eaten. If I point out one flaw it would be they lack the succulence of some the very best burgers I have had in London.

'Ground' on Chiswick High Road is very similar but ever so slightly better to my tastes.
GBK's chips are BIG and chunky, if you like them that way they are good.

There is a variety of sauces available to put on the burger but they mostly seem to be very COLD which is not a good mix for the hot burger. A little less chilled or preferably room temprature sauces wouls go a long way to improving my opinion of GBK's sandwiches.

Overall this a nice addition to the High Street and well worth at least one visit to check it out.

Eat 17 - perfect image for local food, but snobby serivce by shecanta

shecanta — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:41:52 +0000

Review by shecanta

Rating: 2.00

Phone: 020 8521 5279

Website: http://www.eat17.co.uk/

Tags: lively, british, good value

I would have to agree with comments on he arrogance of the staff, very unfriendly unless you like you have Â£Â£Â£ to spare.

I found the food fair and relatively good for the area, but then I pay for a meal as a whole package, and I have to say some staff members + even shockling managers were far too snobby + judgmental for my taste.I would have to agree with comments on he arrogance of the staff, very unfriendly unless you like you have Â£Â£Â£ to spare.

I found the food fair and relatively good for the area, but then I pay for a meal as a whole package, and I have to say some staff members + even shockling managers were far too snobby + judgmental for my taste.

Taste Of India - JJ - Taste of India Covent Garden by Jacquij

Jacquij — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 01:35:04 +0000

Review by Jacquij

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7836 6591

Tags: indian, vegetarian dishes

This restaurant is a rip off! They advertise a 3 course meal and the third course is tea or coffee! Chicken wings starter came as 4 miniscule pieces of what was no bigger than a quails wing, then to add insult to injury they tried to charge Â£5.99 instead of Â£3.95 which was still a rip off what I was given. All portions are tiny and not worth the money. The staff are abrupt and rush you through the meal. This place is a tourist trap and not for the seasoned diner. I would not recommend this place. An after theatre dinner which then wiped out the joy of the theatre with it's shoddy food and terrible service. This was the worst dinning experience I have encountered.This restaurant is a rip off! They advertise a 3 course meal and the third course is tea or coffee! Chicken wings starter came as 4 miniscule pieces of what was no bigger than a quails wing, then to add insult to injury they tried to charge Â£5.99 instead of Â£3.95 which was still a rip off what I was given. All portions are tiny and not worth the money. The staff are abrupt and rush you through the meal. This place is a tourist trap and not for the seasoned diner. I would not recommend this place. An after theatre dinner which then wiped out the joy of the theatre with it's shoddy food and terrible service. This was the worst dinning experience I have encountered.

Sariyer Balik - by gecko

gecko — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:27:05 +0000

Review by gecko

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7275 7681

Tags: turkish, takeaway, family & home feel

VERY BADDDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!VERY BADDDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Franco's Ristorante Pizzeria - Frozen pizza's and sleazy waiters by tomaplaw

tomaplaw — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:18:41 +0000

Review by tomaplaw

Rating: 1.00

Phone: 020 7734 9415

Tags: italian, expensive, crowded

My girlfriend and I first went to 'Franco's Ristorante' about 8 months ago when it was called 'Biagio's'. The food was at an OK standard, which made us not worry too much about the waiters bad service.
Since the restaurant under the name of 'Biagio's' received so many bad reviews they decided to change the name. We thought we'd try the place again, and what a mistake that was. The pizza's were not fresh, and were nearly cold when they came to our plate. The waiters kept touching my girlfriend, and make sleazy remarks. At the end of the meal I told the waiter we were not happy with the meal, and he was rude, and decided to ignore us. It took up 15 minutes to get the bill.
This truly is a horrid restaurant, and I warn you not to eat here, there are plenty of other great Italian restaurants in the area!My girlfriend and I first went to 'Franco's Ristorante' about 8 months ago when it was called 'Biagio's'. The food was at an OK standard, which made us not worry too much about the waiters bad service.
Since the restaurant under the name of 'Biagio's' received so many bad reviews they decided to change the name. We thought we'd try the place again, and what a mistake that was. The pizza's were not fresh, and were nearly cold when they came to our plate. The waiters kept touching my girlfriend, and make sleazy remarks. At the end of the meal I told the waiter we were not happy with the meal, and he was rude, and decided to ignore us. It took up 15 minutes to get the bill.
This truly is a horrid restaurant, and I warn you not to eat here, there are plenty of other great Italian restaurants in the area!

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