Paris Commune

nedg

Christmas in May 21st May 2007

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The first thing on the menu at Paris Commune is an unlikely sight on a spring afternoon in May: gingerbread – which usually goes hand-in-hand with Kris Kringle come December. The gingerbread can be whisked straight from the oven to your table as a starter – or swathed with fresh whipped cream and presented as the finale to your meal.

This was just one of the quirky touches I found at this West Village bistro, which handsomely frames a quiet, leafy corner in between the low-key (but pricey) boutiques on Bleecker Street (Carrie Bradshaw most definitely shopped there) and the ivy- covered townhouses leading over to the Hudson river. Cool 1950's chandeliers help give the white room an unexpected twist, and the menu is filled with whimsical asides about the food – perhaps designed to lower your blood pressure if you've endured a long wait (I had the good fortune to snag the last available table). The eclectic crowd at brunch was buzzy and fashionable without being oppressively so. I spotted John Kerry's older daughter (maybe you remember her? The babe who gave a speech about her pet hamster at the Democratic Convention?) getting cozy with a filmmaker type.

Despite Paris Commune's name, there's wasn't anything especially Left Bank about the menu, which is heavy on frittatas and omelets – but which my fellow diners found uniformly excellent, especially when accompanied by perfectly crisp English muffins and frites. Three very American mixed drinks are available: screwdrivers, mimosas, and my choice – a very peppery Bloody Mary that felt appropriate given the cherry red accents of the room. The shortcomings of the menu become evident with the lack of desserts – it was gingerbread or bust. But with the Magnolia Bakery right around the corner (you'd recognize their cupcakes made famous on Sex and the City), just stroll down the block and queue up for a perfect frosted end to a quintessential New York brunch. So, maybe Christmas in May is even better – after all, there wasn't a tourist in sight.