29th April 2008
Best restaurant in York by some distance...
You know that indefinable thing - class, sometimes words can't describe it adequately but it's just there, a bit like charisma. Well this restaurant subtly delivers this in spades and you just know a Michelin Star is on the way.
Having eaten at Le Manoir, The Star at Harome, Fat Duck at Bray, Martin Wishart etc... I have to say that this place delivers those same sumptuous pure flavours and delicate notes that only great cooking can.
Located on what is now York's restuarant alley on Fossgate (and opposite the sublime Blue Bell for a pre or post dinner drink) it is rather symbolically is the first one you happen upon. Locally sourced produce is cooked in a simple but sophisticated way and the constantly changing menu always ensures that you are not stuck with revisiting old favourites. The grazing menu for lunch is terrific value and there is now a Chocolate Room for the indulgent.
All in all a class act that delivers panache on a plate without destroying your wallet. York is better for its presence and no longer the epicurian desert many food writers used to pronounce it to be. Those restuarants aspiring to this standard of food could do themselves a real favour and pay a visit and learn a lot.
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