Marmalade

With its subtle lighting and shabby-chic design, Marmalade has the look and feel of a comfortable, established wine bar. The wine list isn't bad either.

Food-wise, the chef really excels in sourcing quality local ingredients and awarding due respect to each one in the preparation. The emphasis is on traditional British cuisine, with items such as pies, roasts and crumbles on the menu.

If they're offering the Victorian onion soup starter when you visit, order it at once - this rich, tangy 100-year-old recipe should really hang around for a few more centuries.

The only down side is that you may feel as though you've eaten a fantastic Sunday pub lunch, rather than indulged in the fine evening dining experience that you might expect for the prices. Plus, I know it's the trend at the moment, but I really resent paying extra for vegetables to accompany your mains - it's a personal gripe for which I make no apologies.

Still, all in all, this place is a bastion of British tradition. And - to misquote the strapline of a certain well-known pub brew - it's probably the best pub grub in the world.