17th May 2008
Conran Surprised Me
I have never really been very interested in the idea of eating at a Conran restaurant because the quote of his saying "if you want good food then eat at home" just sticks in my mind - not sure when and where he said it though. The impression I had was one of form over function, with irritating trendy-ness winning out over any substance.
I was a bit non-plussed therefore when I heard that I was heading to Le Pont De La Tour for dinner, imagining I was going to get a serious grump on. However, I was pleasantly surprised.
I couldn't quite figure out the staff, at first I thought they were being masters of not being intrusive but by the end of the meal i felt it may have just been a noticeable shade of inefficiency. It almost spoilt the meal, especially when deserts seem to linger in the kitchen for a suspiciously long period of time. It was around 11pm and I suspect the chefs were on a cigarette break or something by that time.
Anyhow, back to the food, which was the sole reason that I have gone for 4 stars. I began with a simply delicious lobster bisque - it was far better than I was expecting. A small but frothy soupson of a dish that hit all the right spots. I can feel bad withdrawal pangs already and worry that I will have cravings for it. Then I had an excellent Monk fish dish with aubergine paste and ratatouille (see photo). The fish was perfectly cooked, moist, tender and quite delicious.
I was surprised by the decor, it was traditional, with table cloths and a piano playing in the bar. Quite pleasant and not at all trendy. I guess I had misconceptions.
The food was expensive but I think it was just about worth it, especially for the dishes that I had (I may have been lucky, looking around the table). Deserts looked ok, but for c.£14 I would have expected something a little more dazzling, maybe my fellow diners didn't see the best ones or the chef was peeved at our noticeable irritation at their slowness.