16th December 2007
Ramsay arrives in Chiswick
The Devonshire is Gordon Ramsay's latest gastropub venture, located in leafy Chiswick, and we dined there one arctic evening with friends. You enter into a cosy bar area, which has comfy looking couches and two (gas) fireplaces. The dining area runs down one side of the pub, and tightly packed tables ensure you will get to 'enjoy' the stink of your neighbours cheese plate whether you want to or not.
Smelly cheese aside, the atmosphere is buzzy but not too loud for conversation, and the décor is more restaurant than gastropub - the tables and chairs all matched for example. The Devonshire is billed as a gastropub however, which I had to keep reminding myself in relation to the service, which was amateurish and uninterested for the most part. The prices however were cheaper than many of the other gastropubs in the area.
To the food. To start we had the Leek and Potato soup with poached egg, and the Soft Herring Roes on toast. The soup was nothing special, but the poached egg was an added bonus. Sarah seemed to thoroughly enjoy her Herring Roes, which was a dish I had never seen before.
Main courses were the Game Keeper’s Venison pie with baby carrots and turnips (the creamy pastry was the highlight), Braised Gloucester pig cheeks with mashed neeps (another dish I wasn't familiar with), and the Lamb Rump with roasted rosemary parsnips and spinach (delicious, but could have done with more vegetables). We couldn't resist a side order of Chips which were very moreish.
Desserts were the Lemon posset with shortbread, the Chocolate pudding, and the Sticky Toffee Pudding. The latter was a disappointment - we had to return the first one as it was cold, the replacement was a good temperature but very average on the Sue STP scale.
** We dined at The Devonshire again in April 2008. Happy to report that the service was much improved **