26th October 2007
A Great Neighborhood Bistro
Fifty Six manages to pull off all the positives that come with the notion of being a bistro in a fairly effortless fashion. The place is very neighbourhood-y and politely intimate - the owner is always about chatting with people, and waitresses are smilingly efficient and warm. And the place is always busy, with a table hard to come by on the weekends if you haven't booked ahead.
As you'd want from a bistro, the menu has some standard fare, and even the list of specials is regularly rotated so there is nothing overly unexpected from your choices. But you wouldn't want the unexpected, you would want a nice roast pork or some of the best tasting (and best priced) steak and frites in London. I always resolve to get something other than the steak, in fact, but buckle each time I'm sat down; it's some of the most tender, flavorful steak I've tasted, and to get a generous cut of it for £13 feels like a bargain.
Fifty Six is hard to get to if you don't live in the area or if you're not willing to take a bit of an adventure by bus. But it's probably this out-of-the-way nature that keeps 56 being the intimate, neighbourhood place it is.