6th February 2007
All style, some substance
To wade in on the Wolseley debate...
yes, it's a bit pretentious. You do get the feeling, when you're being eyeballed by the black-clad section heads, that they'd really rather give your table to someone with a more expensive handbag. Service is not of the 'what can we do for you?' variety: to keep that busy-busy-busy vibe going, the staff run around constantly, seemingly attending to everyone but you. And maybe there's some management rule about not smiling at the clientele.
HOWEVER, that said... I've been here for tea and breakfast, several times, and couldn't fault the food. Tea comes on a traditional stand, with plenty of sandwiches and delectable little cakes, good tea in large silver pots and warm scones. Breakfast is similarly excellent, particularly the eggs. It's FAR from cheap, but not as ruinous as you'd expect, making it nice for a post-shopping treat, or a cheaper-than-springing-for-lunch meal out. (With the tea, at least, you won't want to eat again for days.)
And the setting is glorious: it was a spectacularly lovely car showroom. Somehow I doubt we'll be seeing The Hyundai any time soon, but then again, I bet there'd be a bit more friendliness.