The French House Dining Room
49 Dean Street, London, W1D 5BG
Reviews for The French House Dining Room
From outside it looks very mundane but the steaks at French House are a must!
www.gilka.co.uk
I'm a bit of a Francophile, if I'm honest. I'm generally appreciative of things Italian, Spanish and so on, but it's earthy, rustic French cooking that does it for me every time. The sort of cuisine that says zinc bar, forthright vin de pays, brasserie, noncommittal shrugs, Gauloises. I'm happy to languish in a cliche like this.
I like the way aspects of Frenchness have remained stoically untouched by the modern world - the continuing love affair with rollnecks, the sanctity of lunch and the merry disregard for personal safety once behind the wheel of an automobile.
The French House is like this impression of Frenchness made brick and mortar. Whilst the rest of Soho either went uber-exclusive and expensive, or touristy and expensive, the French House has carried on being friendly, knocking out lager in half pints, and serving great, simple food in a tiny room upstairs, accompanied by an excellent wine list.
The food is generally excellent, robust fare. Think things like salades tiedes to kick off, and carefully grilled beasts to follow, with hearty accompaniments and desserts to excite the child in you. The wine list is predictably Gallic, but unusually diverse for it and exceptionally well-priced. You'll get out of here for about £40-50 a head, I reckon. In fact everything, down to the gently self-deprecating telephone system, is so pleasant at this place it's a wonder I'm not there every week.
I should also note that booking ahead is pretty much essential on most nights, and although there's a bit of room between tables, you'll be reasonably well-known to your neighbours by the end of the night. Weirdly though, whilst in some places this is Really Irritating, here it's sort of part of the charm.
I tried this place on the recommendation of Time Out magazine. The first thing to be said of this place is - how small and intimate it is. It's like dining in Dickens time - a real weird feeling. Second this place isn't cheap about £45 per head (starter, main meal and a shared bottle of house red). However, they do serve up quality food and the wine's start off at about £12- 14 a bottle.
Again if you like French classic cooking you'll like this. I had a soup for starters and lamb and vegetables for my main course. I was impressed by the tenderness and the quantity I received, with as always a superb sauce. However, if you like plenty of potatoes or a side order of chips may be this isn't the place for you. I say this because I have a family friend who in France always asks if his meal comes with frites, and gets upset when it doesn't.
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