2nd October 2008
Excellent private dining
We literally spent weeks trying to find somewhere to celebrate the missus' birthday. She wanted a good meal in London, price no object, for her and 11 friends who appreciated good food, but who weren't necessarily *foodies*. Not one of the places we tried would take a booking for 12 without either charging up to £3,000 extra for the pleasure or dictating that we would all have to order the same thing. Not great. London, nil points.
However, on a trip to Manchester, we stayed in the Malmaison there (where the brasserie has got a lot better over time), and noticed a cosy-looking private dining room. On the offchance, we checked the London hotel and there was indeed a well-appointed room off to one side which seated exactly 12. Perfect.
Now, let's be clear: the main point of an evening like this is the company. Primarily we'd convened to celebrate a birthday, not for some monumental gastronomic event, but we were on the whole pleasantly surprised.
Ultra-fresh, briny oysters kicked the meal off for me, with me 'n' the missus sharing 6 each of the Fines de Claire and the locals. My taste, as usual, veered towards the French ones; smaller, but with a more concentrated flavour. A pretty good start, all in all.
On the subject of the main event, I should point out that one of my food-related hobby horses is that of British veal. It's many years now since British veal production was anything but entirely humane, and as a by-product of the dairy industry thousands of male calves are slaughtered each year, regardless of the demand for their meat. Eating British veal is a terrific way to support the British farming industry, and it's something I do whenever I can. It's also really rather good.
I should also point out that when I say veal, I'm talking about decently pink meat, rather than the anaemic jelly often served in the 70s, and I'm talking about a *cut* of meat, rather than some flattened, batted out piece of mystery meat that's been cruelly breaded and shallow-fried. A sure-fire way to ruin a perfectly good piece of veal, if you ask me.
I wasn't disappointed. My veal chop was a hefty beast, juicy and flavoursome, with a good meaty bite to it. Excellent stuff, and it gave me the opportunity to inflict my little veal rant on my fellow diners. Apparently the other dishes were equally as satisfactory, judging by the dozen well-cleaned plates the waitress carried off later on.
Dessert was the only low point. My blood orange sorbet was brilliant, sweet, tangy and refreshing, but most of our companions had chosen poorly, though through no fault of their own. An otherwise well-executed chocolate truffle cake was served with what was advertised as pistachio ice cream (woo) but what can only be described as marzipan ice cream (boo). No one in their right mind likes marzipan, and it's a bit of a shocker to inflict this on the unaware. If the chef was actually working with pistachios, something somewhere had gone horribly awry.
My only other gripe, and I find this about Malmaison in general, is that the wine list, whilst well-chosen, is ludicrously overpriced. We struggled to find much under £30, and when there's 12 of you drinking pretty enthusiastically, this does matter.
That said, the food is more than reasonable, and we got away for a very friendly price indeed. I can confidently say that, following several weeks of research, we may well have found one of the best places in London to host dinner for 12 without paying in the neighbourhood of £5,000 for the privilege.
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