Chino Latino

hallen

Can't get into Nobu? You won't be disappointed here 9th February 2007

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Chino Latino, a name intended to signify fusion cuisine. More than a passing similarity to Nobu and Zuma - I gather one of the founders was an ex-Nobu Chef.

First opening in the Park Plaza hotel in Nottingham and followed by a second restaurant in Leeds, Chino Latino recently opened a third instalment in the Park Plaza hotel in London... itself newly developed.

I have eaten in all three Chino restaurants nearly a hundred times. No exaggeration. The food is fantastic and the service is more than adequate. The prices are quite high, but when every single dish that arrives on your table is exceptional, you find yourself happy to pay. And next to Nobu and Zuma, the prices aren't actually that high.

Like many Japanese/fusion restaurants, the idea at Chino is to order fairly communally with your companions and to share every dish.

Edamame beans are the best I've had, lightly fried in a sauce with chillies.

The 'appetiser' size plates are delicious, my favourites usually involving scallops with lime, pork dumplings in a white sauce, raw tuna tataki, fantastic. Chino used to serve a range of kusiyaki (skewers) dishes which were very good, but for some reason they aren't on the latest menu.

The sushi is outstanding. Super fresh. Salmon and tuna are staples, with a generous fish-to-rice proportion for your nigiri, and lovely tasty chunks of sashimi. Some of the best ideas aren't on the menu (I ask for scallop and avocado maki rolls).

The main courses are exceptional, in almost every case. Chino has its own version of Nobu's famous black cod and it is exceptional - if you have never had it before, it will be a special experience for you. And may even corrupt your morals: I persuaded my best friend, a strictly non-fish-eating vegetarian of many years, to try it and she thought it was amazing and guiltily ordered it on her next visit.

Other main courses involve high-quality beef, sea bass, a delicious 'jungle curry' (why jungle?) of lobster and prawns, and several others.

Save room for dessert though, the Chocolate Fondant with homemade Ginger Ice Cream (in Nottingham) and Strawberry Ice Cream (in London) is also exceptional. I have treated more than a dozen friends to it and it scores 12/12.

My favourite place? Well they did give me one of their first loyalty cards - you can get your own online.

Highly recommended.

p.s. if you're not near the south bank (let's face it, there aren't many reasons to cross the river but Chino is compelling), try Yakitoria (qv) at Paddington Central for a solid though not overwhelming experience.