12 Temple Place Restaurant

moreteavicar

12 Temple Place 1st August 2009

1 found this helpful

Tucked away behind The Strand and just up from the Embankment, this classical building awaits its guests with a touch of modern style.
G and I met in the bar for pre-dinner drinks. The marble pillars standing proud between plush, deep purple sofas and chairs giving a "jazzy cocktail joint" feel to the place. It was a slight knock back to find that the bar bill couldn't be transferred to the restaurant. "It's a different outlet" pronounced the waiter as he trundled off to get the bill. "But it's the same hotel." I thought to myself quizzically.
The small dining room was half full when we sat down, yet seemed rather empty in a way that only hotel restaurants can. As with the bar, the classic features of the building are amusingly offset by modern pieced, such as the teapots-turned-vase on the tables, which were wrapped in colourful paper, and the floor standing candelabra wrapped in the same style. An innovative way to recycle that unwanted gift wrapping.
So to the food…
G started with the confit fillet of smoked salmon which had an odd texture akin to having been recently defrosted. The fish was bland, and combined with the accompanying grapefruit segments tasted of, well, grapefruit.
As I read the menu there was no doubting my choice of starter. Suckling pig is one of my all time favourites. Just the thought makes my mouth water… I'm dribbling over the keyboard as we speak. So when I selected a whole "Assiette" of the succulent beast, I could hardly contain myself.
The large plate looked welcoming with 3 (small) preparations spread sufficiently apart. The rillette was excellent; beautifully flavoursome and moist, and well seasoned to lift the meat's flavour. But apart from a drizzling of deliciously sweet apple sauce, the rest was bland; even the tiny morsel of crackling (which should surely be the tastiest part of the pig!).
Main course followed at a steady pace. G's Breast of Squab Pigeon with Confit Leg presented a colourful plate of interesting smells and flavours. The deep red of the beetroot interspersed with the golden brown meat. The chef's imagination shone through with this dish, using most parts of the bird in different ways. This was a tasty and very pleasing.
I opted for the vegetarian offering, which is most unusual for me. But I adore goat's cheese. The dish was a filo pastry log filled with goat's cheese, with leeks and spinach puree. The goat's cheese on its own was a bit salty, but this was offset well when combined with the sweet leeks. The puree was also salt laden and apart from a vibrant green colour added nothing to the dish; I would suggest even destroying an alright combination of goat's cheese and leeks. My taste buds were certainly awake and to attention after devouring what felt like a salt mine.
Before I discuss desert, I'll mention the wine. I was feeling particularly cruel that evening, so challenged our waiter to recommending a glass of wine for each course. This shouldn't have been too difficult as it is an option offered if you take the restaurant's tasting menu. He did indeed do very well, and all the wines were excellent, if a little pricey. Curiously out wine bill averaged £37.75 each for 4 different glasses, compared to the £27 being charge for the wine matching option offered with the 5 course tasting menu.
Deserts were a mixed bag. G had a banana and muscovado sugar cake. The banana flavour was very short lived, leaving a doughy taste behind. The accompanying ice cream was much more interesting. Homemade, rich, creamy and worthy of its own place on the menu.
Given that the Wimbledon season has only recently ended, I was still in a strawberry mood. A delicious vanilla parfait was unfortunately ruined by the waiter pouring a "strawberry consommé" around it. This I presume was the poaching liqueur from the chopped strawberries and basil mixture which topped the accompanying shortbread. There strawberries weren't sweet enough to cut through the basil resulting in a mouthful of basil flavoured mush.
We did end on a high note though. The cheese board was very diverse, with a good combination of strengths and an unexpected smoked cheddar. All British. I was pleased to hear from our waiter that the selection changed on a regular basis.
All in all this was a mediocre but expensive event. As a hotel restaurant it passes muster just fine, but it needs to realise that its guests have a huge selection of more reasonably priced and higher quality offerings just a short walk away. There is certainly some work to be done if 12 Temple Place is to become a destination in its own right and attract non-resident dinners, which I suggest would be necessary in order to stay viable.
Food 3/5 - Variable, jumping from bland to incredibly salty
Service 4/5 - Helpful, knowledgeable, not pushy or intrusive
Environment 4/5 - Relaxing and comfortable. Unique, modern style