Ambassade de l’Ile

intoxicating

Vanity vs. Sanity: The Alienating Island 29th October 2008

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‘AMBASSADE DE l’Ille’ is striking, beautiful and immaculate. Picture an elegant Edwardian library façade, with a chic Italian furniture showroom behind it. An odd union, but it works. Careful, cardinal purple lighting smoothly illuminates white leather seating and panels, contrasting with amusing, tactile shag-pile and dark, urbane blinds. In the loos, fountains glow in a rainbow of colours. In the little lounge, what looks like a stainless steel seat (which I nearly sat on) is actually a low trellis of fire.

Plasma screens are a quirky, but well-intentioned aperture into the kitchen. A live feed into your food. Two shelves of battered, fading Michelin guides are the only tomes in this former place of books, and it almost goes without saying, clearly signal chef's intent. An authority on London restaurants described these as being 'like those leather bound books gentrified pubs have - apparently they are all glued together and you buy them by the yard...'

Incidentally, Morgan Meunier is another chef who used to display the Michelin bibles (before he grew out of nappies).

Jean-Christophe Ansannay Alex already has two Michelin stars for his Lyonnais restaurant, l’Auberge de l’Ile. One critic described him as one of ‘…the most under-rated two star holders…’ Come January, he may well garner a couple more in Blighty (equating to one per name).

And that would be a profound disgrace.

The reasons? -Glacial service and astonishing food, which neither my friend, nor I could engage with.

From the Lyonnais menu, a giant quenelle of (may contain) Pike was served on a slippery frond of Spinach (as if squashed to death) with tomatoey Sauce Nantua and a homeopathic trace of Crayfish. Apart from looking like a pasty administered growth enhancing George’s Marvellous Medicine, it had the texture of street soiled mattress and left a sour, almost metallic aftertaste. Filling rather than thrilling - and I am sorry to say this - what little of it I ate shot through me.

A giblet of moussed cheese which looked like a mouse made a mockery. It was saddled by chive ears and joined by a dolls house portion of St. Marcellin and weedy mesclun.

Dessert from the former world dessert champion, Pascal Molines justified his victory as being very much in the past tense. A thin triangle of gharish, jammy flan served on a greasy plate.

With coffee, patronising popcorn came dusted with raspberry sugar.
Give me strength.

Whilst I suspect they could do better, it feels as if Ansannay Alex exists in his own world. The fact that he left his insulated kitchen to tour the padded restaurant said much for the thickness of his hyde. Had he not registered the still heaving plates returning to the wash-up?

Fate requires little provocation. If Ambassade continues with this estranging tunnel vision, the credit crunch will Pacman his little, lavishly priced imported Lyonnais island unto oblivion...

Clareed

Best value set lunch in West London 9th September 2008

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This place does a fantastic value set lunch too. I have been a couple of times and would be there every day if my bank manager and personal trainer allowed! It is only £30 for three courses and for £12 more you can have two glasses of wine, mineral water and coffee. The chef is currently running a special Lyonnais menu in hommage to his father - the chef is from Lyon apparently. Last week when I was there they had a saucisson in brioche with a rich red wine sauce, and then pike quennelles on a bed of spinach with a prawn sauce, and to follow, heavenly Iles Flotantes - true French food! Not sure what they have this week - I'm trying to resist a visit till towards the end of the week!

gastro1

Serious New Arrival 9th September 2008

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This is a serious restaurant with a top kitchen brigade and polished front of house.

The service was perfect and the food outstanding.

The amuse bouche were beignets of herbs and root vegetables , raw salmon and roe on a crisp potato pancake and spoon containing quail egg in a light creamy white sauce.

The bread was homemade and perfect in terms of freshness, texture and taste.

I started with a mille feuille of Cornish crab with a sabayon sauce with a touch of wasabi.

My friend and I then had a superb Tourte (Pie) that had succulent pieces of Quail, Duck and Pigeon. The pastry was superb as was a chutney served alongside and very concentrated duck stock based sauce.

We followed with cheese which came from three separate trolleys one with soft cheeses, one with goats and the final one with hard and blue cheeses. I had Munster, St Marcelin, Crotin and Blue D'Auvergne all in excellent condition.

For desert I had a beautifully executed tart with liquid cocoa filling topped with light Valrohna cooked Chocolate Mousse? This was perfect but maybe lacked a bit of punch.

At the end we were given two miniature liquorices ice creams that cleaned our palates.

We had a glass of white (Voigner) Cote de Rhone and a superb bottle of St Joseph (2005) from Guigal to compliment the food. The wine list is mainly French and is particularly strong on Rhone - hence our choice.

I would like to try some dishes next time that do not have hints of eastern spice here and there as after all JC does not need to go there - he has all he needs around Lyon the stomach of France for inspiration.

In my humble view fusion(with the east) is rarely something that the French have done well with the possible exception or Verge , Robuchon and Vongeritchen , this is best left to Aussies !

In summary this is a great addition to the higher echelons of London restaurants that is producing food on a par with The Square , Pied a Terre ,Tom Aitken, Le Gavroche, Hibiscus and Marcus Wareing at the Berkley. I do not think it reaches the heights attained by Nico Ladenis - Chez Nico in Battersea and Victoria, Marco Pierre White at Harvey's/Hyde Park Hotel/Oak Room Picadilly or Pierre Koffman at Tante Claire not to mention Gordon Ramsey at RHR and Aubergine. However it is early days at this talented team can reach those heights if Jean Christophe spends significant time in his London outpost.

Niamheen at 09/09/08

Great review! Everyone seems to love this place. It seems to get every detail just right. Sounds fabulous. It's on my list!

Food_Snob at 09/09/08

I am glad to hear that you enjoyed it...

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Food_Snob

Ambassade de l'Ile - 28 June 2008 28th August 2008

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Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/category/restaurant-reviews/ambassade-de-l%e2%80%99ile-ii/

Text-only Critique:

I know what you must be thinking: “Another ‘return’? Again, Food Snob? But we want to hear about different places, not the same ones over and over again.” Well, settle down readers, I agree; of course I too want to try new restaurants, but exceptions are acceptable and do sometimes seriously pay off…

The sample à la carte menu, on show though not on offer during my opening-night visit at Ambassade, had already tantalised my taste buds and a return visit was certainly on the cards. There was a wee problem however: this menu was available for a limited time only and would change in only a couple of days for July’s full opening. Hence, I would lose forever my chance to try all those lovely dishes, as well as the soft opening discount still in effect (being the stingy s(n)ob that I am, this naturally did not escape my attention)! Thus, I had my raisons de manger, which with a little weighing up of the pros and cons – teasing teaser menu, discount, deadline vs. not-dining-at-untried-restaurant opportunity cost - was excuse enough to schedule a long, lazy Saturday lunch.

Arriving at Ambassade, I was instantly recognised by the staff. I was warmly welcomed by restaurant manager, Caroline, who showed me to my table; a table certainly more convivial to solo dining than my previous one as it afforded a direct view of one of the television screens with live-feed to the kitchen. I like to think this was a considerate, intentional gesture made for my benefit. After some very friendly conversation over how the opening had gone so far, the star of my last dinner, Monsieur Remy, came over to greet me. He was to be my serveur-en-chef once again; I was delighted. So far, so good; the omens were favourable. I was eager to eat.

Amuse Bouche: Les Beignets d’Herbes Aromatiques. Mixed herb beignets (basilic, menthe, coriandre) together with sweet potato, beetroot and Lotus leaves were promptly rustled up. The herbs, in butterfly-light batter, were crunchy without, moist within and at once sweet and salty. The vegetables were distinct in taste and added sweetness, crunch and colour. These were very good on my first visit and even better this time; I see practice does make perfect.

Les Pains: The same selection of freshly baked white and brown were offered again. Just as fluffy, just as tasty as before, however, the crust was a little chewier on this occasion. Both salted and unsalted butter were now served.

As I amused myself with my amuse, Chef Jean-Christophe approached my table; he too remembered me. This was all the more impressive as we had only exchanged a few pleasantries previously as he toured the tables, greeting his guests. He was touched that I had returned so soon. We spoke about the restaurant, his cooking, London and about Lyon. The impression he left on me after our first meeting – gracious and humble, quiet yet open – was not only preserved, but deepened. He had a patent passion for cooking and was eager to please his guests, welcoming criticism and suggestions. He was curious to know what people genuinely thought, what I had genuinely thought. I was surprised and touched when he proceeded to take my order himself and together we arranged an exciting menu featuring all the dishes that had caught my eye.

Entrée 1: Tendre Gelée d’Ecrivisse et Pêche Blanche, Un Lait d’Amande ‘Frappé’. My first starter featured five chubby crayfish each floating on its own white peach island surrounded by an icy-cool sea of sweet, light almond milk. The delicious condensed milk, so full of taste, was ethereally light. The peaches were perfectly ripe, soft and juicy. Each firm, sweet crayfish clung to an almond-half paddle. A bite of shellfish, peach and almond delivered sweet, delicate, nutty flavours and textures varying from firm to milky to crunch. The dish worked very well; the combination of fruit, nut and shellfish was original and well considered. From the first spoonful to the last, I was transported to a warm seaside veranda in Southern France, savouring a gentle breeze or maybe a lovely meadow in Valence, enjoying these lovely peaches just picked, peeled and plated.

Entrée 2: Délicate Gelée de Betterave, une Crème Fumée Fouettée, Caviar d’Aquitaine. Served within a cocktail glass, a pristine layer of smoky white cream rested upon a thick royal purple beetroot jelly. Caviar and a lightly-fried breadstick grissini garnished the cocktail. My first spoonful was of cream and beetroot together; the initial flavour of smooth, woody mousse slowly gave way to deep, rich, earthy beetroot that was startlingly intense and pure. The grissini was very light and betrayed not a hint of grease. The addition of caviar was inspired; those delicate, precious little pebbles were like flavour bombs. The uniquely refreshing caviar cut through the mousse and complemented the beetroot. Each flavour was simple, powerful and distinct, but none overpowered the others. It was a well thought out, well designed dish. A wow.

Plat Principal 1: Homard et Figue, Réduction d’une Vendange Tardive liée d’un Beurre de Corail. A painter’s-palette-like plate of rich, exotic colours was presented. Lush lobster morsels, wrapped in their velvet skin, bathed in opulent orange bisque of ‘late harvest’ wine reduction and coral butter. In the centre of the dish lay a large roasted black fig decorated with a pretty pink claw and garnish of lobster shell. The inclusion of powerful passion fruit gave this brilliant bisque a fruity, fiery zing and its seeds, found floating in the sauce, gave an unexpected crunch. The delicate, sweet lobster was excellently cooked, firm but bouncy and dissembled in the bouche without difficulty. The hot, smouldering fig added warmth to the whole arrangement. Passion fruit and fig, though both very rich, intense flavours, were tamed and their sweetness tempered; they blended together harmoniously and obediently and instead of overpowering the gentle lobster, complemented its natural sweetness well.

Plat Principal 2: Sur un Gros Ravioli de Tapenade et Marmelade d’Orange amère, Vapeur de St Pierre tigrée d’Algues. Succulent pristine white pieces of John Dory wrapped Zebra-esque in jade seaweed strips and a large tapenade ravioli were served swimming in a dark amber bitter orange consommé. The fish fillets were perfect; delicate, flavourful, flaky and firm. The sea-salty seaweed contrasted well with the natural sweetness of the St Pierre. The plump ravioli, bursting with black olive, remained intact until ingestion, whereupon the fragile, soft skin dissolved on the tongue, delivering a salty smack. The bitter orange consommé was gentler than its name suggested and was sprinkled with small super-sweet surprise cuts of candied orange peel. There was a lot going on in this dish – bitter orange vs. salty olive vs. delicately sweet fish vs. briny seaweed – and though the individual components were cooked well and each flavour was able to express itself, they did not generally complement or add to one another. That said, there were no clashing or unpleasant combinations and though my least favourite dish of the night, I would not describe it as bad; it just did not work for me.

Plat Principal 3: Caille farcie et laquée de Miel et Vinaigre de Cidre, Tomates « Coeur de Pigeon » en Aigre-doux. A juicy, fat French quail, skin glistening in a honey and cider vinegar, was presented table side, ready for serving. Carved straight down the middle, a rich succulent stuffing of quail meat, garlic, rosemary, thyme and more herbs was revealed; the superb surprise was a lavish liberal lobe of foie gras nestled in the middle. The bird was plated alongside caramelised ‘pigeon-heart’ tomatoes and a sprig of rosemary with a sweet and sour sauce poured over it. The little quail’s meat was moist and tender, while its skin sticky and tangy. The farci, packing a punch, stuffed with flavour and luxurious, was well balanced by the sweet and sour reduction and the tiny tomatoes that, zesty and deceivingly powerful, were like little taste grenades. Yet another wow!

Dessert 1: Soufflé chaud à la Pêche blanche. The first dessert to arrive was a warm peach soufflé within a petite silver saucepan. The ivory soufflé was crowned with a crisp, even, sugar-dusted, caramel-coloured top. This was pierced and, from a matching saucepan, a sauce of liquefied peach compote was drizzled in and over the delicacy. The aroma was warm, summery and dreamy. The mellow, fluffy alabaster soufflé was light and airy, like a whipped cloud. It was delicate in flavour and not too sweet; quite lovely indeed.

Petit Fours: These provided some breathing space in between the two dessert courses. The PF elements themselves had not changed since my previous visit - coffee sablés, macarons vanilles, macarons double-chocolats and popcorn dusted with raspberry sugar – but were all of noticeably better quality. The sablés, previously two dry, bland biscuits, were replaced by four skinnier, much tastier ones. The infusion of raspberry essence into the vanilla macarons made one nostalgic of jammy dodgers. The now double-chocolate macarons, chewy before, melted in the mouth. The popcorn was again decent.

Dessert 2: Carré Chocolat Valrhona et crémeux Noisette The last of the courses was a Valrhona chocolat pastry with creamy nuts. The adorable chocolate monument consisted of layers of sabayon, ganache, brownie and mousse, each carefully crafted and delicately, evenly shelved one upon the other. A wafer-thin chocolate feuille completed the construction and gave a mortarboard-aspect to the whole treat. A scoop of chocolate ice cream crowned the pastry and an elegant, flash comet of caramel provided the final flourish. The chocolate was rich and nourishing, whilst the contrast of textures between layers was quite pleasing. The caramel comet was filled with a sweet almond marzipan surprise.

Café:: To round off the feast was another good, strong and richly-roasted espresso.

Service was once again wonderful. The staff were ever-present, but not intrusive; whenever I required something, someone was there to provide it, but no one stood over my shoulder waiting, watching. Between courses, I was able to enjoy conversations with several of the staff, which being a solo diner was appreciated. They each came over as very friendly, very polite and were able to tell when I wanted to talk and when I wanted to occupy my mouth otherwise.

Before the meal, my expectations were high and the pervading, only-natural fear of disappointment did indeed haunt me. However, I am delighted to say Ambassade did, without a doubt, not only match those expectations, nor just exceed them, but it blew them away. The food was fantastic; each dish was at least good, with only one forgettable (the John Dory and even this had some merits) but several wow dishes (Betterave, Homard, Caille) that really stole the show.

Some investigative journalism later uncovered possible explanations behind the excellent cooking; the expertise and adventure of Chef Jean-Christophe is supplemented by the skills and energy of an ambitious, young and dynamic twelve-strong team that includes sous-chefs Armand Sablon (2007 Roux Scholar) and Sylvain Bouget-Lavinge (Midlands Young Chef 2001) and Pascal Molinès, MOF and former World Pastry Champion.

Further investigation also exposed another interesting titbit of information. Chef Jean-Christophe’s original Lyon restaurant, Auberge de l’Ille is situated on Ile Barbe in Lyon’s Saône River, which in 1977 was declared an independent sovereign state within France with the right to print its own money. Moreover, Chef Jean-Christophe was made its honorary governor. This is why his new South Kensington outpost is rather aptly titled Ambassade de l’Ile i.e. Embassy of the Island. The restaurant is quite the Lyonnais affair actually and is sponsored by some serious names, with the financing having come from City trader Marc Grosjean and Jean-Michel Aulas, president of Olympique Lyonnais.

The delicious food and impeccable, hospitable service I have enjoyed during my two visits here have proven to me that dining at Ambassade is real pleasure. Chef Jean-Christophe is an uplifting breath of fresh air. His arrival in London is a long-planned, well thought out effort to establish an excellent restaurant serving excellent food in an excellent manner, unlike some compatriots who possibly see London as a cash cow and opportunity to cash in; hopefully London’s sophisticated diners and their ever-maturing palates will discern the difference. As for me, now that there is yet another menu on offer, showing off many of Chef Jean-Christophe’s signature dishes from Lyon, a further visit is surely necessary…

117/119 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3RN
tel: 020 7373 7774
nearest tube: Gloucester Road, South Kensington
www.ambassadedelile.com

gastro1 at 06/09/08

Hopefully this expansion across the channel will be more successful than Pierre Gagnaire's abysmal association with Sketch and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester.

Anyway I will find out on Monday September 8th and check out little Helene in due course.

Food_Snob at 08/09/08

It has been sometime since I went to Sketch, but I did not hate my meal there, although it was, excepting a couple of dishes, forgettable. Additionally, Ducasse was more disappointing than terrible - desserts were awful/boring, but I did enjoy an excellent fish dish.
I would say though, that Ambassade is definately maybe a more serious venture into London than these two. Re. Darroze, I plan to visit soon as well, but I have heard mixed sentiments, possibly more negative than positive, about London and Paris.

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Food_Snob

Ambassade de l'Ile - 19 June 2008 28th August 2008

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Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/category/restaurant-reviews/ambassade-de-l%e2%80%99ile/

Text-only Critique:

Some heated conversation on the chowhound boards piqued my interest: Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, the 2* Michelin chef/owner of Auberge de l’Ile, Lyon was opening a new restaurant in Knightsbridge. A little research uncovered that, from mid-June until July, there would be a soft opening on. When I discovered the 25% discount offered over this period, I immediately made reservations for what turned out to be opening night.

Upon arrival, the dining room was still being arranged, but given that it was indeed the first night, I had adjusted my expectations accordingly and was prepared to let any minor faux pas slide. Whilst waiting to be seated, I took the opportunity to scout the interior. Though split into several segments, the dining area’s tall ceilings and comfortable table layout set an open and sophisticated tone. The décor was a fusion of elegant and eccentric; dark purple walls, white leather seating, mood lighting and TV screens with a live feed to the kitchen. The tables were laid with clean, crisp white cloth and embellished with a single white lily. The setting was conducive to good dining, but with one small criticism: I was not keen on the mood lighting. Its slow revolution of colours proved a little distracting, infringed on one’s espial of the food and may be considered, dare I say it, a little déclassé.

That night the kitchen was offering one menu with two choices: 3 courses, sweets & desserts (£65) or 5 courses, sweets & desserts (£90). I selected five courses, for the sake of a fuller review of course.

Amuse Bouche 1: Les Beignets d’Herbes, de Patate Douce, de Betterave et de Feuille de Lotus. Mixed herb beignets (basilic, menthe, coriandre) were expertly executed; no hint of grease and leaves still moist and juicy. Sweet potato and lotus leaf added an exotic sweetness, whilst the beetroot provided the bite. The contrasting flavours and colours were pleasing to the eye and to the bouche.

Amuse Bouche 2: Miettes de Crabe, Pain de Gingembre, Sabayon Wasabi. An amuse of coarsely chopped crab, sandwiched between two gingerbread crackers in wasabi sabayon was gorgeous. The sweetness of the crab and sharpness of the wasabi were at once countered and matched by the spicy sweet gingerbread. The dish was a deliciously clever play on flavours as well as textures: smooth sabayon, coarse crab and granitic gingerbread. Yum!

Amuse Bouche 3: Foie Gras, Cerise, Caramel. This amuse, on the other hand, failed to amuse. The combination of foie, cherry and caramel (maybe as spread?) upon a rather brittle, dry cut-out of toast was a little cloying for my taste. The acidity of the cherry helped counter this, though insufficiently so.

Les Pains: The bread selection consisted of a choice of lightly-toasted white or brown. This Spartan array was, however, easy to forgive thanks to the bread’s rustic crust, airy texture and tangible taste of onsite baking; délicieux! The accompanying butter, whose origin, I am rather chuffed to admit, I instantly diagnosed as that buttery Basilica, St. Malo, was also superb.

First course: Délicat Mollet de Foie Gras, Emulsion de Morille, Grosse Asperge Verte. The slow-cooked royale of foie gras, veiled beneath cappuccino-esque foam, natant in morel emulsion and decorated with a stem of asparagus was devilishly delicious. The rich, ethereal foie melted like butter on the tongue. The morels, plump, bursting with flavour and drowning in thick bisque (laden with cream and butter no doubt) only added to the dish’s luxury. The asparagus, besides, as something green and healthy, fulfilling a makeshift lightening rod role to attract and digest any lingering gras-induced guilt, added little.

Second course: Sur un Melon rôti au Poivre, Langoustines Bretonnes (et exceptionnel Jambon Ibérique). Served in an open sardine can (nice touch), three langoustines, bedecked with slices of orange-pink Iberian ham, rested on a warm slice of peppered cantaloupe. One problem here: I do not eat pork, a fact mentioned whilst ordering. Once notified, my serveur apologetically and swiftly replaced this dish with another (or the same) serving, minus interloping ham. I was disappointed; last week at Bacchus, Chef Nuno had replaced the set pork dish with an almost entirely new creation, here the ham was merely removed and dish re-served thus.

Refocusing on the food…The bright carrot hews were attractive and appetising; the langoustines, whilst sweet and plump, were also deficient in number and size; and the melon, though described as rôti, was delivered tiède. That said, the cantaloupe’s fruitiness tied in well with the sweetness of the shellfish and the pepper offered a delicate, fresh contrast.

As a side note, I am a big fan of peppered fruit, a combination I chanced upon long ago and indulge in daily (usual lunch = frozen yoghurt, berries, black pepper).

Third course: Nage tiède d’Huître et St-Jacques, Chantilly d’Herbes au Caviar. A creamy, plump scallop and portly ‘princess diamond’ oyster sat swimming in a warm lush potage of Chantilly cream and herbs with a small speckle of caviar stippling the mix. The amber coat of this insincere scallop deceived me: it looked better than it tasted. Though of obvious good quality, the cooking let it down; crispier on the outside, creamier within is what it should have been. However, the oyster, bursting with fresh, salty zest animated the dish and, together with the caviar, provided a sharp counter to the sweeter scallop and cream.

Fourth course: Omble Chevalier à la Peau Croustillante, Un Beurre de Mousserons. A delicate, flaky fillet of Arctic char was decorated with a petite tranche of crispy skin and rested atop a plinth of Mousseron mushrooms soaked in velvety mousseline. The pastel shades of ecru, beige and chestnut echoed the soft and mellow tastes of the ingredients. The char, prized (no less) for its sweetness and tenderness, was semblable to a dulled salmon in flavour (same fish family) and did not enthuse; the de rigueur sauce was naturally delicious; and the skin provided a pleasant and new crunchy texture to the dish. The magnific mushrooms were the meridian of this course; these earthy, meaty champignons added depth and intensity.

Fifth course: Grillade de Noix de Veau de Lait au Vinaigre de Jerez, Purée de Pomme de Terre Nouvelle à l’Huile d’Olive. The meat course consisted of a cut of grilled milk-fed veal tenderloin on a bed of mashed potato, drizzled in Jerez sherry vinegar and olive oil and garnished with confit cherry tomato and rocket.
‘Hmmmm’ was my first impression. For those yet unable to decode my groans and grunts, this meant surprise. I was surprised by the very unsurprising-ness of the dish; it whispered brasserie, whilst the price tag yelled restaurant-shooting-for-Michelin-stardom. It was just a little too ordinary, too mundane to be the meal’s summital dish. This obviously did not stop me eating it. The veal, grilled well-done on top and rosy underneath, lacked both force in taste and submissiveness in texture. In contrast, the mash, smooth and flavourful, was good and the piquant vinegar was a splendid touch, giving the dish the kick it deserved.
Gingerly, however, my initial criticism of the plate’s simplicity began to evolve into sceptical admiration. The ingredients - veal, vinegar, potato, tomato, rocket - each contributed a clear, confidant and precise flavour; could it be that there was a certain refinedness, an elegant purpose hidden in this dish? I was torn.
Thinking retrospectively, I concluded that had the veal been better prepared, I would class this as good comfort food but, in the context of the whole meal, it was simply itself uncomfortable.

Pre-dessert: Cornet de réglisse et vanille. A mini cornet of liquorice and vanilla ice cream was presented in a bucket of sugar and decorated with star anise, symbolic of a summer beach scene (bucket of sand, starfish…). Unfortunately, the ice cream had already begun to melt before reaching the table, but even ignoring this, it was rather forgettable.

Sixth course: Sur un Sablé Breton, une Poêlée d’Abricots au Romarin. Instead of a cheese course, I went for two desserts. The first was fried apricots with rosemary on a Breton sablé with pistachio sorbet. The apricots were molten within, but not crispy without (I assume, given it was fried, this was the ambition) and the rosemary garnished the dish, but did not add flavour. The sablé was decent; sweet and crumbly. The sorbet, punctuated with chopped pistachio, tasted good, but, again, had almost melted into a puddle before reaching me (freezer problems?).

Seventh course: Clafoutis aux Cerises, Jus de Cerise. The second dessert was cherry clafoutis, topped with crumble and laced with a cherry jus. This was another homely, unassuming offering, like the veal, but more satisfying; I can picture the grannies françaises baking these sweet treats in their petites cottages rustiques right now. This pudding was warm, soft, just a little gooey and fully loaded with fresh, zingy cherries; I liked it. The sweet sour combination was refreshing and had the crumble topping been better, it was a little soggy and devoid of crunch, it would have contrasted nicely to the batter’s very subtle runniness.

PF: I declined coffee, but welcomed the petit fours. I should not have bothered though as they paled miserably in quality and quantity to the cornucopia of mignardises I have gotten into the hoggish habit of expecting after fine French dining. I received two coffee sablés, a macaron vanille, a macaron chocolat and popcorn dusted with raspberry sugar. The biscuits were dry and bland; the vanilla macaroon was OK, the chocolate chewy (but then, after Pierre Hermé, one can never really enjoy another man’s macarons); and the popcorn was, well, popcorn.

Overall, the food was a diminuendo of satisfaction for me; having started off very well, successive courses proved less successful. I see hope, however. Throughout the meal there were some flashes of real creativity and very fine cooking - the beignets, crab amuse, foie gras royale were rather excellent - and I do believe, given a little time and practice, the kitchen will tighten up and iron out the little imperfections - forgettable scallop and veal, melted ice cream.

In contrast, the service left me very impressed. A full legion of staff, the sine qua non of French restaurants, was indeed present and though not yet running like a well-(olive)-oiled Gordon-Ramsay-drilled machine, they were efficient and capable. During the entire meal there was just one minor blip (aforementioned pork episode) and considering it was opening night, this can be duly disregarded. The staff who looked after me were each friendly, attentive and courteous, however, special mention was earned by my principal serveur, Remy (formerly of GR@RHR), who was charming, knowledgeable and considerate. Towards the end of dinner, Chef Jean-Christophe himself came out to say hello; while reserved and quiet, he seemed amiable and gracious. Although really an inconsequential gesture, it leaves a big impression and I, for one, always appreciate it.

The bill, which included the five course menu; desserts; bottled water and service, totalled £101. Factoring in the soft opening discount, I paid £75 and considered this good value. Nevertheless, full prices are high and suggestive of an ambition to compete with London’s finest (rather than milk les Anglais, I hope).

When I first arrived, I was provided with a sample à la carte menu to whet my appetite for what was to come. I cannot deny that dishes such as Tendre Gelée d’Ecrivisse et Pêche Blanche, Un Lait d’Amande ‘Frappé’ (tender crayfish jelly with white peach, almond milk frappé) and Caille farcie et laquée de Miel et Vinaigre de Cidre, Tomates « Coeur de Pigeon » en Aigre-doux (quail stuffed & varnished with honey & cider vinegar, sweet & sour ‘pigeon-heart’ tomatoes) had not only my mouth watering, but at these prices - entrées ≈ £23, plats principals ≈ £30; and desserts ≈ £17 - left my eyes watering too.


117/119 Old Brompton Road, SW7 3RN
tel: 020 7373 7774
nearest tube: Gloucester Road, South Kensington
www.ambassadedelile.com

gastro1 at 06/09/08

Are you a shareholder ?

I am going on Monday and your very thorough reviews have certainly raised my expectations !

Food_Snob at 08/09/08

Let me know how you get on.
I really want to return myself, but it just has not worked out yet!
Whatever criticisms I have heard of the restaurant, the food is never one and is always praised...
Fingers crossed.

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