26th August 2008
Brilliant from start to finish
I'm not normally one to tempt fate. After my review of Arbutus on this site, Wild Honey had a lot to live up to. Add to this the fact that the missus and I dined here an hour or so after I'd asked her to marry me, and the recipe for potential distaster was complete. Knowing my luck with this sort of thing, I probably should've known better.
Turns out we were in safe hands though, as from the moment we were greeted at the door to the moment we wandered back out of it, the experience was totally faultless, possibly even slightly superior to Arbutus in some ways.
I've got to get wordy about the food, I'm afraid, so make sure you're sitting comfortably. I kicked off with the smoked eel, presented as a chunky fillet, alongside some preserved turnip (I know!) and a splodge of citrussy apricot puree, the three working unusually but brilliantly on the palate.
The main event was a simple enough dish to get right - roast lamb - but by god was it ever a good piece of meat, cooked just enough to give its tenderness a bit of bite whilst retaining every bit of sweetness and depth of flavour. Following this were a selection of La Fromagerie cheeses, introduced to us by a well-informed (or very well-rehearsed?) waitress, and for me a light, delicate wild honey ice cream studded with crisp nuggets of honeycomb.
On the wine front, the 250ml carafe option in force there meant we could drink precisely the wines we wanted; those which went with our food throughout. So we went from Albarino to New Zealand Pinot, to red Burgundy and finally some massive Rhone beast or other with the cheese. The missus was even persuaded to try a dessert wine with her dessert, a major triumph (as I've never been able to convince her) and one that went down really well.
The service was just on the good side of frenetic. They were obviously busy, but although there was a fair bit of running about and so on, we never felt ignored or waited too long for anything. That said, I do have a tendency to actually get up and ask for something if I want it NOW, rather than sitting quietly and moaning about it later. In general I felt they were more than accommodating, with the restaurant manager coming over at the end of the meal to check everything had been ok.
And the bill. The one time I've treated the missus and not wanted to show her the bill because it was so much cheaper than expected. For world-class food, friendly, professional service, and a wine list that's as varied as it is accessible, and all of this not just in central London but in MAYFAIR of all places, I'd happily have paid more. Don't tell Anthony that though...