Zafferano

intoxicating

When Lunch is an Education 5th December 2008

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I AM a fanatic of the leisurely lunch. Meals for me provide the most satisfying memories. My more decadently inclined have run for over ten hours. Whilst one particular meat marathon ended in blurred vision, and a lethargic shuffle home, the majority conclude gently - even elegantly. Plenty of H2O, a balanced, engaging menu and wine made by artisans rather than accountants generally prevent exhaustion and calamity!

Courtesy of ‘Astoria’, a market conscious north Italian producer, I was recently invited to ‘Zafferano’ (meaning saffron) a fêted Italian in Knightsbridge. Also from the north of the peninsula, chef Giorgio Locatelli landed his first Michelin star here in the mid 90’s, before moving to pastures new with the world renowned ‘Locanda Locatelli’.

About 20 wine and food writers and celebrated culinary professionals, including Alberico Penati (formerly of ‘Harry’s Bar’ and now at the helm of ‘Aspinals’) gathered around a sturdy table within the restaurant’s bottle lined, brick vaults. Our aim: to discover more about the liquid behind the sexily packaged bottles.

With bresaola, a ruddy, air-dried beef, sliced thinly with a piped fringe of goat’s cheese mousse and raucously peppery rocket, we drunk the ‘Lounge Cuvée’. Believe it or not, this surprisingly rich, but mineral tingled, green hued Prosecco intended to lure the younger generation away from big brand beer and sugary alcops, even has its own soundtrack. A tailored composition of acid jazz was put in our goodie bags for later evaluation…

With radicchio risotto from Treviso, we tasted ‘Mina’, a simple, but strident, densely aromatic blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the local speciality, ‘Incrocio Manzoni’. The rice was – in a good way - the texture of mouse droppings and the purple chicory crisp and refreshingly bitter. The wine added supple, pineapple moisture.

The highlight however was the roast rack of veal, supplied by ‘Allen’s’, Mayfair’s oldest and most revered butcher. Expertly carved at table and pink centred, it was classily complemented by the sleek, caramel, spice and cassis scented ‘Croder’, which was almost opaque. A blend of Bordeaux grapes alongside a little local, the gentle texture of the tannins melted alongside the veritable baby calf. The wine was almost sobering proof that the Prosecco region, from where all the bottles were produced, offers much more than bubbles.

After a lush mandarin sorbet with frozen mint, we sampled the house’s dark crimson coloured sweetie, made from raisened grapes. ‘Fervo’ was wholesomely rustic: grapey with notes of sweet chestnuts, walnut husks and a trace of tartness. Finally tea coloured, oak aged grappa bevelled another long lunch.

To find your local stockist of Astoria wines, please contact ‘Alivini’: 020 8220 2526.

Food_Snob

zafferano - 27 Aug 2008 8th September 2008

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Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/2008/08/27/zafferano-london-the-return/

Text-only Critique:
This is the last meal W and I shall share before she jets off home, so in a final attempt to have London impress her with its edible offerings and also simultaneously sate her all-consuming appetite for Italian food, she decides on Zafferano.

I should have paid more attention to the omens; first, W was over thirty minutes late for lunch (traffic), then once actually at the restaurant, my lunch reservation had apparently disappeared, even though I had confirmed it the evening before (I had even been assigned a window table, or so I was told); fortunately, they still managed to accommodate us. Things brightened up a little when I was greeted by the now ever-smiling Constantino who showed us to our table and took our orders. Alas, the menu had hardly changed since my previous meal, so I let W steer today’s selection.

Stuzzichino: Parmegiani e focaccia. These were the same hors d’oeuvres as on my last visit; creamy chunks of parmesan cheese and soft cherry tomato-topped focaccia. What had changed however was that I learnt (at the end of the meal though and thus too late…) that this petite platter of cheese and bread was costing me £15. Rarely do I mention prices, let alone complain about them, but I felt especially aggrieved by this. First, these items come without requesting them; secondly, at no point and by no means is one made aware of their cost; thirdly and more importantly, I am not able to eat pork, but still paying full price; and fourthly and most importantly, it is simply not worth £15 - after all, a four course lunch is £39.50. Pour l’amour du ciel!

Il Pane: Grissini, ciabatta, olive bread and brown bread. The bread selection now differed; the white bread with tomato or mushroom filling had been replaced by ciabatta and olive bread. Unfortunately, this ciabatta was more like plain white loaf in masquerade; it had neither the requisite crisp crust nor porous middle to call itself anything else. The olive bread was decent, but the olives were simply sprinkled on, rather than infused into the bread.

Antipasto 1: Spiedino di scampi e zucchini con promodoro freso. I had ordered the same dish last time, but W was pretty eager to try it for herself. A char grilled skewer of five fat, courgette-wrapped langoustines came in an intense tomato and basil sauce, garnished with a wafer-thin slice of grilled bread and green leaf salad. The Scottish shellfish were juicy and tender, matching nicely their delicate courgette jackets. The salty, fresh salad provided good contrast against the sweeter skewers. This was again tasty and well-prepared with clean, full and bright flavours.

Primo Piatto 1: Tagliolini con granchio e zucchine. An ample portion of homemade tagliolini pasta came mixed with very thin julienne courgettes, big crumbs of white crab meat and snippets of sweet chilli. The pasta had been cooked well and al dente, but was thicker than I had first anticipated (it is also known as angel-hair pasta…); nevertheless it had a pleasingly unrefined texture. A light, smooth sauce bonded the tagliolini tightly with the crab and courgettes, which were good in tandem. However, it was all a little awkward; everything collectively gave the overwhelming impression that one was eating Oriental noodles rather than Italian pasta. That does not mean it tasted badly, it just tasted different to what was expected/wanted.

Primo Piatto 2: Tagliatelle con filetto di manzo e melanzane. The next course consisted of long, thick tagliatelle ribbons with tender fillets of beef, smooth aubergine and fresh tomato. The tagliatelle too had a great feel to it, having been prepared coarser and rougher; this more porous pasta also readily absorbed the blended juices from the soft beef, mushy aubergine and moist tomato. The ingredients combined deliciously offering rich meaty and earthy flavours. The addition of grated parmesan, which slowly melted into the dish, gave it a creamier, fuller depth making this hearty and satisfying.

Pesce: Coda di rospo con zucchine grigliate. The first of the main courses was char grilled monkfish with courgettes and sweet chilli. Two medallions of monkfish tail, still on the bone, were served with grilled chucks of courgette (again) in a very light dressing of olive oil, bay leaves and sweet chilli (again). Regrettably, the fish had been awfully overcooked, leaving it dry and barren of its succulent, slight sweetness, which had been instead supplanted by the consuming singed savour of charcoal. The courgettes were undercooked (in a good way) and crunchy, but by this stage we had become bored of this ubiquitous legume - some might suggest it silly to complain about this since we ordered it, but the fish choices were limited to maybe just three, one of which I had tried already.

Carne: Petto di pollo con capperi e limone. Half a corn-fed chicken, laying on a fried frittata of aubergine and bed of wilted spinach and dressed with lemons and capers, followed. The pollo had been roasted a lovely shade of amber and was accompanied by an equally appetite tempting tangerine-yellow sauce. Thankfully, its taste surpassed its appearance; the meat was moist and succulent, whilst the skin still crispy. The thin, herby gravy of chicken stock, lemon and white wine was full of flavour, but did not overpower the more delicate bird. The bitter lemon zest and mustard-like capers provided a nice punch.

Dolce 1: Frutti di bosco con yogurt. Mixed summer berries with frozen yoghurt was the first dessert and it was disappointing and shocking in its stark simplicity; blackberries, raspberries, blueberries and strawberries chopped into a coupe were served with a small scoop of iced yoghurt. The sourness of this yoghurt made a decent counterpoint for the sweetness and subtle acidity of the fresh fruit, but there just was not enough of it!

Dolce 2: Pesche con crema di amaretti e ciliegio. The second desert of caramelised peaches with fresh cherries and amaretto cream was strongly recommended by our waiter. A circular carousel of overlapping peach slices enclosed a blanket of cherry halves and amaretti biscuit crumbs smothered in amaretto-infused cream and garnished with almond flakes and a light cherry coulis drizzle. This unison of flavours, colours and odours proved rather intoxicating and almost luxurious: the peach’s rosy pink and orange hues together with the bold burgundy of the cherries contrasted against the immaculate white of the crema; and their dense, fruity aroma was warm and compelling. The sugary peach and sour-sweet cherries were balanced by the smooth, mild cream within which broken bits of spicy amaretti could be found.

Petit Fours: Cornetto alla limone. Lemon had replaced orange as the flavour in this cornet treat. The zingy, sharp sorbet was once again very good.

Regretfully I must admit that this experience was rather soured by the service. Constantino was jolly and able as ever, but we were not in ‘his section’ and, though he popped round occasionally, someone else was looking after us. This someone else however barely seemed to understand what I was saying; evident from some of the unrelated answers he gave to my questions. Furthermore, he was quite ill-informed about the food; always appeared to wait until I actually asked for more bread, before bringing it; and having asked him for another sorbet petit four and him promising to bring it, we did not see him again until we demanded the bill or the petit four ever. By the way, this is when I noticed the aforementioned stuzzichino charge.

All this could have honestly been ignored had the food dazzled, but dazzle it definitely did not. Shone? No. Glowed? Barely. Out of all the dishes, three or four were good, but the noodle pasta was just odd, the berry-yoghurt dessert something I could make myself at home and the monkfish just plain wrong - it has been a long time since I failed to finish a dish, but I had to leave the majority of this one behind.

And the worst thing about it all is that I am now constantly subject to abject earfuls from W about how the NY dining scene utterly knocks the pants off London’s. Grazie, Zafferano, grazie mille…


15 Lowndes Street, SW1 9EY
tel: 020 7235 5800
nearest tube: Knightsbridge
www.zafferanorestaurant.com

Food_Snob

zafferano - 09 July 2008 28th August 2008

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Illustrated Critique:

http://foodsnobblog.wordpress.com/category/restaurant-reviews/zafferano-restaurant-reviews/

Text-only Critique:

No prizes for guessing where I dined next. After feasting at Locanda Locatelli only days before and the River Café still closed for refurbishment, this week I was faced with a veritable Hobson’s choice of haute Italian restaurants: where else then, but Zafferano? Plus, having previously picked LL over Zafferano rather capriciously, I felt, deep down, it was only fair to give the later its chance this time round. It would be the right thing to do…

Zafferano first opened at its Belgravia home in 1995 and soon enough, Head Chef Giorgio Locatelli established it as one of the capital’s finest dining spots, earning critical success and awards, including a magical Michelin star, along the way. In 1999 however, Giorgio left, eventually settling in at the Churchill Intercontinental in Marble Arch with his independent and eponymous Locanda Locatelli. Here he recreated the success he first achieved at Zafferano, earning himself another star. So what of Zafferano? Like a ship without a rudder, a restaurant without its iconic head chef, is bound to flounder, is it not? Not at all. After Giorgio’s departure, his former number two, Andrew Needham, took the reins and not a beat was missed. Andy quickly steadied the ship, not only saving Zafferano’s star and stewarding a successful era of expansion, but also building a name for himself as an authority on cucina nuova.

Andy, who started his career aged seventeen at the Savoy prior to working at Paris’ Le Pre Catalan (3* Michelin), then Giorgio’s uncle’s La Cinzianella in Northern Italy and finally Zafferano as Giorgio’s sous chef, has a style that is more conservative than creative; his dishes are straightforward and traditional, but with occasional subtle, modern twists. The focal point of Andy’s approach is his uncompromising attitude towards raw materials: he regularly tours London’s specialist markets - Borough, Billingsgate, New Covent Garden and Notting Hill Farmers’ – himself, as well as having personal contacts abroad armed with digital cameras who email him photographs of the produce in the markets of Paris, Milan, Bologna or elsewhere, thus allowing him to personally pick only the freshest, finest supplies. The rather reasonably priced menu (note bene: watch out for all the supplements) is the embodiment of these principles; the kitchen, drawing on classic, honest Italian cooking methods, creates simple dishes crafted to showcase these superior ingredients. There is indeed a dynamic choice offered with dishes regularly changing every few weeks as food comes in and out of season, whilst specials are dictated by the market so can vary from day to day.

The restaurant itself differs from most other top end eateries, being casual and comfortable rather than slick or flashy; its solid wooden frontage with its lush shrubbery is discrete enough that one can walk past without noticing it. Exposed brickwork, soft furnishings, ceramic tiled floors and a plethora of fresh flowers engender a real rustic charm inside that is welcoming, full of character and still classy. The dining area is tranquil and serene, soothed with earthy, warm hues – scarlet and ochre upholstery, peach cream walls and terracotta tiles – and soft lightning and, though tables are surprisingly small and intimately set out, the room remains open and spacious. The atmosphere is at once buoyant, relaxing and utterly unpretentious.

In contrast to his convivial surroundings, my waiter, Constantino, at first came across distant, a little cold and possibly irritated with me and the time/questions it took me to order. However, I am glad to say this did not last and soon, the ice began to thaw; maybe realising how interested I was in the food, cooking and restaurant, he started to open up, becoming very friendly and talkative. In fact, he proved impressively well informed and we established a genuine rapport as he regaled me with many interesting anecdotes and trivia about the various dishes’ recipes and histories.

Before the food was served I was also shown around the kitchen by sous chef Justin, who was kind enough to explain to me how everything worked. It was surprisingly small given how much is done within: chefs butcher the meat themselves, 30kg of seafood are delivered each day, bread is baked fresh and eight types of pasta are made daily as are homemade ice creams and sorbets. The Zafferano delicatessen next door is also catered for, which explains the frequent sight of waiters leaving the restaurant with large trays of focaccia.

At last, la mangiare…

Stuzzichino: Parmegiani, salami e focaccia. A pastoral palate-platter was presented to fuel my perusal of the menu. The rustic rhythm was repeated with rough hand-broken bricks of fresh, nutty parmesan, thick carvings of Italian salami and a soft, fluffy focaccia topped with cucumber and cherry tomato. The cheese was good, the focaccia decent, but a bit heavy on the olive oil and, as I do not eat pork, I had to snub the salami.

Il Pane: Grissini, flavoured white (mushroom or tomato) and brown bread. Last week the bread at LL was so good, it might just have ruined me for other bakers and, inevitably and unfortunately, the granaio (breadbasket above) here was well-licked by LL on both quality and quantity. Grissini had a slightly chalky consistency and a lack of length that was somewhat embarrassing when measured against LL’s impressively long specimens – alright, alright…the LL comparisons shall cease here (FYI that was probably a lie). There was a plain brown too and also white bread with a sporadic filling of mushroom or tomato that when finally found was moist and tasty; both varieties, generally soft and light, but with a chewy crust, did improve as lunch progressed. Very light extra virgin olive oil accompanied the selection.

Antipasto 1: Carpaccio di manzo con parmigiano e balsamico. Served first was thinly sliced beef carpaccio with parmesan and balsamic vinaigrette; a gift from the kitchen. The delicate slithers of beef were surprisingly tender and when melded with the rich parmesan, each mouthful melted into a creamy mush. The 25 year old balsamic vinegar (older than me!), poured from a small vile carried by Constantino like some secret potion, gave the dish a sweet acidic buzz. This starter set out the stall for what to expect at Zafferano: simple dishes that allow superb ingredients to do the talking.

Antipasto 2: Insalata di scampi con zucchini e basilico. A langoustine salad with courgette and basil began the prearranged courses. It was picture-perfect: soft, subtle shades of pastel greens, reds and yellows blended together to create a warm, fuzzy watercolour. A juicy quintet of lovely plump langoustines, each wrapped in a char-grilled courgette blanket of golden brown and green trimming and all skewered together, swam in a shallow ichor of wonderful Italian tomato infused with basil. The dish was completed with a fresh leaf salad and perforated slice of ultra-thin bread grilled with olive oil. The strong, sea-sweet savours of the shellfish, which though firm, dissembled effortlessly in the mouth, were highlighted by the sweet and salty salad and complemented by the delicate courgette. The crunchy toast and crispy roots contrasted well with the succulent scampi and zucchini. There was a somewhat sour aftertaste however from the £15 supplement attached, which single-handedly obliterated the saving from the lunch/dinner differential.

Primo Piatto 1: Linguine con aragosta. Linguine with lobster and tomato was next. Lovely lissom lobster bites, nestled amongst golden chords of al dente pasta, were bathed in a persimmon-coloured tomato sauce that, suffused with chilli, imparted gentle warmth to the whole dish. So far, this was pretty much a carbon-copy – even down to the decorative specks of parsley garnish – of the linguine all’astice at LL – I knew I was lying earlier when I said I would not mention LL again, but, having ordered the same dish at both restaurants, some sort of contrast is just unavoidable. The USP of Zafferano’s version however, is the addition of thick fillets of steak-like tomato; these were luscious and mushy and added depth to the seafood pasta. This traditional dish was wholesome and satisfying …(and better than LL’s!).

Pesce: Salmone con spinaci e balsamico. A fish course of pan-fried organic salmon with spinach and balsamic vinaigrette followed. A fillet of rusty-pink salmon, on a bed of deep green spinach which lay in a shallow olive oil and vinegar lake, was dressed in a black olive tapenade overcoat and adorned with translucent snips of radish. Not normally do I order salmon, but I was in the mood for something different. I should have stayed with the familiar: the fish was cooked quite well with a crispy skin contrasting against soft, flaky flesh but, though the best time of year for salmon-eating, the fish was dull and lacked that oily omega-3 richness one expects from this fish. The spinach, rather lifeless and drowning in an acid bath, was maybe overdone. The tapenade had good flavour, but was not always detectable. The various, strong flavours – salty salmon, bitter olive, sour vinegar – had to fight it out for the limelight; I felt sorry for the sorry spinach. I did like the intense olive oil-vinegar combination though; it reminded me of when, as a child, I would be given hot, oven-fresh bread and the same mixture to dip it into.

At this stage, I was just starting to sense those sensations of satiety that serve as sensible stop signs for sensible people, so I was glad desserts were due; it was going to be a sweet change not to have to eat through the fullness barrier this time. But it was not meant to be: lo and behold, out came Constantino with another bowl of pasta! ‘You must-a try this, its just-a small portion’, insisted he and with his eyes all lit up and a smile perched on his lips, could I, would I, did I refuse this man?

Primo Piatto 2: Strozzapretti con cipolle di Tropea. Obviously not. He had brought me a plate of steaming strozzapretti, twisty twirls of tubular pasta, perfectly prepared and paired simply with fresh tomatoes and onions. However, these were no ordinary tomatoes and onions, but the thick, meaty aforesaid juicy Italian tomatoes and sweet, red Calabrian Tropea onions, with which I had only recently found and fallen in love with. Together, they formed a moist, mushy webbing for the wholesome carby curls of pasta that, surprisingly soft and creamy in consistency, with each mouthful melted away to leave just the subtle crunch of the tropeas. This classic example of hearty Italian comfort food was delizioso. Grazie mille, Constantino.

Dolce 1: Tiramisù. Zafferano’s legendary rendering of the most Italian of dolci did not disappoint; finally an indulgent, decadent dessert! The smoothest, freshest, thick mousse came cocoa-covered and shelled in a light, delicate tuile basket. My taste buds, slapped awake by bitter cocoa, were then immediately soothed by the sweet whipped mascarpone, whose richness was in turn gently cut through by the soft Marsala-soaked sponge. The last lingering taste was of the confectionary casing whose sugary crunch contrasted superbly with its creamy content. Each deep spoonful of this oozing, messy marvel was cherished. Wow.

Dolce 2: Pannacotta alla vaniglia con fragole e basilico. Next up was a vanilla pannacotta with strawberry and basil sugar served in a coupe. Refreshingly cool, smooth and silken, this is ideal for summer. The ‘cooked cream’ was richly flavoured with actual vanilla seeds instead of essence, discernable later by their clustering at the glass’ base. Diced strawberries allied with whole raspberries, both very much in season, provided a touch of acidity to counterpoint the fruity sweetness and creaminess of the mousse and sugariness of the even sweeter basil. The precious garnish of crystallised herb névé, whose sparkle had misled me into mistaking it for gratings of green emerald, was most memorable. With its strong, garden aroma, deliciously sweet, earthy tones and sandy-fine texture, it was a surprising, but effective twist on an age-old recipe. After the pannacotta’s consumption, the bucolic basil lingered on both my breath and between my teeth, pleasantly effervescing.

Dolce 3: Mousse di cioccolata con frutti di bosco e gelato di pistacchio. Lastly a chocolate mousse with summer berries and pistachio ice cream was brought out. The thick, milky mousse concealed a dense, crunchy caramel toffee biscuit base; a customary textural play on the classic combination of cream and crunch. Homemade ice cream, which really tasted like what it was meant to (pistachio being a difficult flavour to instil) and topped the hexagonal chocolate treat, was served at melting point, on purpose I assume; the melted ice cream i.e. cream that flowed off the mousse, flowed onto the plate and mixed with waves of rich dark chocolate sauce that the dessert rested on. More seasonal fresh fruits – raspberries again, but blueberries too – dotted the plate like tiny islands in a sea of creamy chocolate.

Petit Fours: Cornetto all’arancie. PFs consisted of a single cornet of orange sorbet. Though straightforward, the treat was flawless. The perfect sorbet was smooth and devoid of crystals; the fruity flavour was zesty, clear and distinct – like a real orange; and the cornet itself was sweet and crisp. I filched three…

Well, it seems that Giorgio has trained Andy very well, maybe even a little too well! The food was direct with flavours fresh, clear and distinct and the cooking assured and authentic. Andy’s uncompromising attitude towards produce was evident today: from the abundance of seasonal foods – salmon, courgettes, strawberries, raspberries – to the sourcing of local, traditional ingredients – fresh Italian tomatoes, Tropea onions. The focus on these raw materials, much highlighted by the chef himself, distracts the spotlight from his own culinary skills and expertise. It takes precision, good judgment and an innate insight into Italian culinary ideals to produce such simple, balanced and delicious dishes as Zafferano does daily. Actually, it is hard to believe Andy Needham is not himself Italian; although explicitly English, a Yorkshire man no less, I am convinced that water from the Tiber or maybe Arno runs through those veins.

Service is friendly yet formal, refined without being cold. I felt very well looked after by my principal waiter, but besides with him, there was little active interaction with any of the other staff; they kept a respectable distance, carrying out their duties efficiently, well and with smiles on their faces, but without establishing any real personal connection.

The obvious way to conclude this critique would be to judge whether Locanda Locatelli or Zafferano is the better restaurant. But, at the risk of disappointing everyone, I really do not want (cannot) do that. I will state the obvious though, that each has its strengths, such as LL’s bread and Zafferano’s desserts, and I would definitely return to both.

In conclusion, I was delighted that my recent run of very enjoyable dining experiences continued at Zafferano. My meal here left me deeply satisfied and very content, which is just how I want to feel after eating Italian food.


15 Lowndes Street, SW1 9EY
tel: 020 7235 5800
nearest tube: Knightsbridge
www.zafferanorestaurant.com

chrisp

Luxurious 13th August 2008

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In his new book, The Man Who Ate The World, Jay Rayner makes the observation that no matter how lavish or exclusive, high-end restaurants operate a kind of twisted democracy that allows any schmuck to be A-list for a few hours, it just takes some of us longer to save up for the experience than others. While I think there's an element of truth in this (although to be fair, most of us could save up for any kind of luxury treat given enough time), the idea that London restaurants are some sort of level playing field is in my experience pretty far from the truth. For captains of industry, "it" girls and soap stars, getting a reservation at a certain infamous handful of fashionable eateries (The Ivy, Scott's and the Cipriani amongst others) is little more than a matter of asking your PR agent or waving your AMEX Centurion card. The rest of us have to make do with 6:30pm sittings and a table for two in the cloakroom. Of course, that's even if we're lucky enough to get in at all, some restaurants I'm sure being just a front for some sort of money laundering scheme (yes, I'm talking to you, Fat Duck - how can your phonelines be engaged constantly for 7 hours every Saturday for the last 4 months!?).

But it's not just about reservations. Even once seated, the heirarchy plays out in a number of other more subtle ways which became obvious during a recent trip to Zafferano in Belgravia. Rated highly by better people than me, it is also a celeb favourite so I was surprised to have the choice of any time I liked for Sunday lunch. This apparent flexibility made more sense when we arrived for our table only to be ushered through the glamourous main dining room to a pokey annexe with a decidedly non-A-list ratio of covers to floorspace. However we fared better than many other unlucky diners in the room and service was so good it soon made up for the relatively cramped corner table.

Amuse of little squares of risotto with some sort of vegetable paste were only OK but as we weren't expecting any 'extras' like this came as a nice surprise. However I couldn't help noticing that some other tables - even in the B-list annexe - occasionally received further snacks such as bowls of olives and breadsticks, which weren't offered to us and weren't on the menu. Perhaps I should have slipped the waiter a fiver, or maybe they'd sussed us out from the moment we said we weren't having wine and ordered tap water. Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get me.

My starter of Passamonti ham with "gnocchi fritti", was literally just that - an oblong plate with little salty pillows of gnocchi at one end and some sliced ham at the other. Very good, certainly, but not really cooking as such - more like tapas than traditional Italian.

The main course was, however, delicious. Polenta and guinea fowl ravioli with "peverada" was silky smooth ravioli in a fantastic stock, coated in rosemary-infused chunks of (I think) chicken livers. A rich and satisfying plate of food, and exactly the kind of thing I had in mind in my quest for the finest Italian food in London.

The superb food came at a price suitable for the address - £34.50 for two courses - but as we largely avoided alcohol and bottled water we just about managed to get away with £40 a head including service. It was, to be fair, a perfectly pleasant lunch and I would go again to try and sample more of the menu. But these fashionable places react badly with me. Don't get me wrong - the service was smiling and superb from top to bottom, the food well worth the money and most other important factors well above the London average. But there's that niggling thought always at the back of your mind in places like this, that your paying the same money for the same food as everyone else, but some people are getting that little bit extra just because their appearance means the restaurant features in the next edition of Heat magazine. So before I venture any further into the dangerous world of restaurant politics, I'll leave you with a quote from one of my favourite movies:

Carol Connelly: OK, we all have these terrible stories to get over, and you-...
Melvin Udall: It's not true. Some have great stories, pretty stories that take place at lakes with boats and friends and noodle salad. Just no one in this car. But, a lot of people, that's their story. Good times, noodle salad. What makes it so hard is not that you had it bad, but that you're that pissed that so many others had it good.
As Good As It Gets, 1997

gastro1

Si manga benne 14th June 2008

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One of the best Italian Restaurants in London even after the departure of Mr Locatelli.

However just like Locanda Locatelli the starters be it risotti or pasta are miniscule.

MartyDiBergi

Top Notch 11th January 2008

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Absolutely top drawer Italian food. Quality is pretty much unsurpassed in London although The River Cafe is definitely its equal.

Beware some of the additional charge dishes - costs can escalate rapidly! Staff are always helpful and attentive without being on your shoulder and pushy. Great italian cooking and the venue is as fitting for special occasions as it is for business.

(Recent years have seen a notable rise in wealthy european clientele - on one visit a pair of thick set Russian gents sat next to our table were eating chocolates whilst they still had their main course on the table... They then left most of their food when they got up to go, along with half a £100+ bottle of wine.)

ProfMagellan

Superlative Italian 24th October 2007

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I took Mrs Magellan here for her birthday. London restuarant uber-critic Andy Haylor says that it is the best Italian in London and he is right.I began with prosciutto, folowed by Tagliatelle in a beef source and apple tart with caramel ice cream. Mrs M enjoyed her puratta (an a aubergine concoction), suckling pig and fig and almond tart.
Washed down with a bottle of San Leonardo, a delicious red from the Alto Adige. Service impeccable, professional and cheerful. Pricey (just under £200 for two but this is Knightsbridge) anda bit noisy. But the other punters were having fun - and at least there was no canned music. A nice crowd too of every age group and nationality. Far better than Locando Locatelli which seems to cater for footballers, hedge fund managers and Russian oligarchs.
A great place for a treat.

jo104

Fabulous Italian restaurant 19th September 2007

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I was fortunate enough to be on our company's exclusive invitation list to dine at Zafferano, a michelin star restaurant, in their private dining area.

The Private dining area is downstairs in the cellar & the big oak table seating at least 16 people the low lighting adds to the rustic feel of the room. I believe that during the week this room hosts sophisticated dinner parties, and on the weekend it transforms into a childrens heaven distinctive of a Italian family run restaurant feel.

Starters were platters of decadent cured meats, buffalo mozzerella with cherry tomatoes, seared tuna, selection of medittaranean vegetables with cuttlefish were among the dishes. I do not eat seafood or fish as a rule but was tempted to try the tuna and it was wonderful so perhaps I am cured of my fear of fish.

Next we enjoyed 2 types of pasta, a ravioli and a rissotto both equally good. Main course I had to select the veal which was cooked to medium perfection. Dessert had to be the classic Tiramisu which was different to how I have had it before but surely this is how Tiramisu should taste absolutely heavenly.

The staff are attentive, the wine list extensive and all in all I feel we had an excellent night which was also good value.

wyahaw

Best Italian in London 29th March 2007

2 found this helpful

I have been coming to Zafferano on a monthly basis for a decade now, and although the chef has changed once the standard has not. Pasta dishes are superb, while salads benefit from top quality ingredients. The restaurant has a Michelin star and deservedly so; few restaurants in Italy are better. The only problem is getting a reservation. Vintage Tunina is my suggestion from the wine list. For more about Zafferano see www.andyhayler.com

jo104 at 03/08/07

Hi Andy, I will be dining here mid August can't wait to sample some excellent Italian fare & your seal of approval makes it that much more of an exciting prospect

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