Hereford Road

bellaphon

Rule, Britannia! 31st August 2008

2 found this helpful

This part of W2 is strewn with B&Bs and two star hotels. One of the major advantages of calling the restaurant Hereford Road is the heavy luggage wielding tourists simply have no excuses on figuring the whereabouts of the said road.

I’ve been yearning to visit Hereford Road ever since they opened, but its over-hyped PR put off most of my dining companions. I enjoyed my past experiences at St. John but it started to get too expensive and crowded for the wrong reasons. The daily updated menu on the Hereford Road website suggested that the dishes were keenly priced and equally tempting as the ones found at St.John. A friend was thus duly or rather forcibly dragged here to accompany me on a Sunday Lunch.

For a restaurant to have an open kitchen in line with the entrance can only evoke a degree of confidence with their cooking and expertise. The main dining room was brightly lit by a large circular skylight and the overall ambience was entirely comfy without a hint of stuffiness. The service was efficient and friendly and thankfully never overbearing. That said, this place has no cover or service charge and tap H2O is served automatically, gratis. To my absolute delight, the dining room is also perfect for solo diners.

I was disappointed that Grouse was off the menu, but to my relief Snipe was offered as a starter instead. The starter choices could quite easily leave a lot of diners spoilt for choice, what with Smoked Eel and Bacon, Salt Beef, Brawn and so on. My companion’s Parsley Soup was deemed delicious especially with the superb bread that’s baked in-house. My Snipe and Damson Cheese was as clichés go, an absolute tour de force dish; the beautifully roasted bird (including the long beaked head and brain) was presented with a piece of toast that’s been spread with a pate made from its cavities and a slice of damson cheese (jelly). The result was extraordinary and the tartness of the damson complimented the gaminess of the bird. My mains of Roast Forerib, Runner Beans and Roast Shallots was equally well executed, the beef was pink, tender and rightfully beefy. The mate’s Chicken, Girolles and Lentils was also pretty much heroic, in fact as I’d observed this dish was popular with the other diners in the room. Sides were not ordered, as the portions for the mains were more than generous. The puddings were spot on and no-nonsense. I ended my meal with the decadent choice of Profiteroles and Chocolate Sauce; here the cream is replaced with a superior vanilla ice cream. My now happy companion’s Apple Jelly served with a couple of shortbread was a perfect conclusion to ensure he comes here again.

It’s very difficult to envisage Michelin inspectors visiting a restaurant like Hereford Road, especially with the lack of the following; elaboration on the presentation of its dishes, that dreaded foaming on the dishes, amuse bouches, a supposedly world class sommelier pestering you off the house red. Well not in my books, Hereford Road provides brilliant comfort food, great ingredients and uncomplicated cooking. Sundays, and for that matter Mondays will never be the same without HR. Tom Pemberton, you get all me stars.