2nd August 2007
Never mind the view...
Like most people, I'm a big fan of the Tate Modern. I wander in whenever I'm around, just to be generally in awe of the place and to swing by some favourite pieces, but I'd never visited the 7th floor restaurant until today. Have to be honest, wouldn't normally have chosen a gallery restaurant, but it came recommended so I took a chance.
It's a chance well taking. Firstly, the view is one of the best in London, taking in the panorama from Southwark Bridge all the way round more or less to Blackfriars. This gets you St Paul's, the gherkin (although that might put you off) and basically a massive wodge of old London, which is somewhat distracting in the best possible way. The room itself is very sparely done out, which helps balance the experience, I guess.
Man cannot eat on views alone though, and I'm happy to say the food is more than a match, with interesting takes on familiar bits and pieces and good staples done extremely well. A cricket bat-sized piece of battered cod on a mountain of golden chips sailed past which looked mighty tempting, but being in my unforgiving work trousers (twas lunch), I opted for a salad.
Said salad was excellent from start to finish, translating the traditional Italian vitello tonnato into a salad of poached veal with a light tuna mayonnaise, nonpareil capers and cherry tomatoes. Amazingly, the veal was absolutely perfectly cooked, tender and still bearing a faint rose tint. From what I could see from my companions' plates, everything else on the menu bore the same deft touch.
Service, ambience and so on were all about par for a Thursday lunch in that part of town, efficient, bustling and canteen-y, and with some non-alcoholic drinks and coffees came to about 20 a head, which I reckon is tremendous value. I'm giving this one three stars as I'm feeling stingy, but I'm keen to go back of an evening to really put it through its paces.
A similarly shiny performance might even garner another shiny star, who knows. Recommended for impressing out-of-towners during the day and (so I'm told) dates in the evening.