2nd January 2008
Never coq au vin up! Perfect and true!
In London, the majority of French falls in either the category of: insipid tasting carby stuff from schlock bistros who disregard seasonality as much as Dina Lohan’s terracotta tan, or; the sometimes (or sometimes not) excellent abstractions of haute French cuisine by the hyper-chefs that are served at prices as lofty as their conception (literally reaching for the (Michelin) stars!). This shameful asymmetry of quality/value really gets to me, especially when you just want some steak and fries done in the same way they made it for you in that little place you and your significant other dined in some picturesque Parisian quarter back in March ‘06. What breaks this mould in London is the un-radical, conservative Le Boudin Blanc, which ideally rests on some point in the upper-central, slightly to the right in an imagined chart of London French food. Physically located in a genteel little enclave of Shepherd’s market between Curzon St and Piccadilly, Le Boudin Blanc is quintessentially French in appearance where woods are treated to look old, floors and walls chemically distressed, and quality virgin-white cloth is soflty blended under the low light of stalagmite candles.
I have been to LBB, I think at time of posting this review, four times. It is always very, very good in terms of food and service and they have not messed up a single thing, be it an order or a corked bottle of wine, once! The biggest testament to the kind of attitude, or rather lack of, which inhabits this restaurant which I can think of was the occasion when a co-diner asked for her meat to be cooked further and the request was completed in literally under five minutes with a gracious apology from our presentable waitress who’s visible goal was to improve our experience. The menu changes throughout the year and comprises of both classic hits and more uncommon seasonal numbers (the menu is published on their website - go see for yourself). It is very difficult to recommend any particular item on the a la carte menu when they are all extremely good (actually, dover meuniere might be the best thing on the menu?!) but my only piece of advice to potential diners is DO partake in a desert (the crème brulee… *thud*), or live a life in regret. Ambience gets a 10.
"Consistency is the last refuge of the unimaginative" said Oscar Wilde, but, thankfully, someone very imaginatively came up with a consistent restaurant: the subject of my review.
note: Sister restaurant La Bouchee is just as good.