Osteria Antica Bologna

Tagnelap

Shocker 27th April 2009

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I am afraid to say that this place is so far beyond its sell by date it is almost unbelievable. 10 years ago, you would suffer the poor service because the food was good.
That can't be said today.
Poor food, the same dreadful service but now with even less atmosphere.
Avoid.

AntoniaL

Rustic Italian on Northcote Road 17th December 2008

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Last night saw my third visit to this local Northcote Road Italian eatery. It has been a fixture on the road for some time. This is a good sign - it isn't easy for independent restaurants to make it in this popular spot.

Rustic is the word I'd use to describe this cosy place. The restaurant is small with tables crammed in, almost on top of each other. This makes for a sociable dining, but it is probably not the place to go if you are planning on divulging your deepest secrets to your dining partner. The interior is very much no frills. Lots of wood. Rather dark. Hasn't seen a lick of paint for years (...decades?). If you like swanky and modern then this is not the place for you.

The appeal of this neighbourhood osteria is (as it should be), the menu. Imaginative, seasonal, regional Italian dishes are the order of the day. You won't necessarily find the usual favourites (carbonara, spag bol, pasta puttanesca) and there isn't a pizza in sight. More likely you'll find papardelle with rabbit, spaghetti with sardines and tomatoes, tagliatelle with guinea foul and basil, red mullet ravioli, seabass wrapped in filo pastry. The menu changes with the season and last night was heavy to game, chestnuts and hearty vegetable dishes.

I skipped the starter but my mother had pears wrapped in wild boar 'bresaola' with walnuts and gorgonzola. A fairly classic combination which looked good on the plate and didn't disappoint. My main course was a wonderful chestnut papardelle with wild boar and juniper ragu. It was sublime. The slight sweetness of the chestnut papardelle was stunning against the deeply savoury boar and the juniper (a favourite of mine) lifted the whole dish. I just about managed to refrain from licking the plate clean. I was so wrapped up in the gorgeousness of the slow-cooked ragu that I can hardly remember what my mother ate. But it was excellent - it involved mushrooms and lots of cheese. And blueberries, I think. Or is that just a bit too far-fetched? The obligatory tiramisu to finish was wonderfully light and airy and very good.

The only slight let-down on this occasion was the service which was fine, but not brilliant. On previous visits it has been more jovial.

The wine list houses some interesting regional Italian wines, some at reasonable prices. We had a very good Aglianico del Vulture which worked well with the flavoursome dishes we'd ordered. The large glasses showed the wine off well too.

As for prices, I can't comment on the bill as I didn't pay (thanks, Mum!), but I don't imagine it was outrageous. Then again, restaurants in the area aren't particularly known for their brilliant value, so I don't reckon it is a steal either!

Osteria Antica is always busy. The food is simple and generally delicious though presentation and service are perhaps not as good as they could be. However, the whole place has a very authentic flavour - (I'm certain that there is an Italian 'Mama' doing the cooking in the kitchen). Hugely superior to the other polished, more modern Italian offerings on the Northcote Road.