Cafe Continente

DanWilkinson

Sunday morning life-saver 6th October 2008

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Hangovers are curious things. The things they require to ease the pain (coffee, fried foods, newspapers etc) are rarely directly available when you're in the grip of one, and often the energy needed to invoke a cooked breakfast yourself is simply too much to consider. A local cafe is therefore indispensable, and this one is mine.

I say cafe advisedly, and this is a crucial subtle distinction to make when choosing your hangover-curing venue. A pub is never open in time to be of any use, and is too often the scene of the crime to which you shouldn't really return. Smells of beer usually aren't advisable, either. A restaurant is usually a place where your pale green face and trembling fingers aren't generally welcome, and so best avoided until dinnertime. Cafes, particularly those like this one, exist to provide sanctuary to the hungover on weekend mornings.

One of the first proper hangovers I ever had in London was partially cured here, so I'm probably overly fond of Cafe Continente, and this review's going to smack of subjectivity. What the hell, it's *my* review.

Not in nearly eight years has this cafe let me down. I've never ventured from the breakfast menu (and why would you?), and can vouch that without exception it is highly satisfying: crisp where it should be crisp, non-greasy and freshly cooked, with good ingredients treated with respect. Ok, the bacon and the sausages aren't Borough Market standard, but they're decent enough and don't cost the earth.

Toast is hot when it comes to the table. I can't stress how important this is.

The coffee, although I have had one pretty shocking cup here about six months ago, is generally great, not too bitter and comforting to the troubled tummy. A great selection of juices, posh soft drinks and even (for the terminally bewildered) wine & beer are available. Service is brisk, non-judgemental and highly capable, and you can roll out of here for about £7.50 with a large breakfast and a coffee already beginning to work its magic.

My two criticisms are these:

1. It's always so crowded you're in no way guaranteed a seat. This bothers me a bit, as the last thing I want to do when I'm hungover is stand in the middle of a busy cafe with people bustling past me and... staring at me. That said, places do tread a fine line between 'dead' and 'mental', and I'd always prefer the latter, I suppose.

2. The seats really aren't that comfortable. I know it's a pedantic point to make, but I really don't like them. I want to lounge at breakfast, and Continente's chairs really don't allow that sort of behaviour.

Hence the dropped star. If you can get over these two niggles, you're well on your way to health again.