18th August 2008
Too cool for school
Millions were spent on this place, I'm told - and what we have ended up with vaguely resembles the cantina from Star Wars. Beige, subterranean tunnels lead to candlelit hidey holes and claustrophobic snugs. Whether you like this kind of atmosphere is, of course, subjective. But I enjoyed their cocktails and the weird theme-park vibe of the whole thing, and judging by the crowds so did a number of other Londoners. Food, needless to say, was overpriced and mediocre. But people don't come here to eat - after all, nobody looks cool eating chicken satays, do they?