7th August 2006
London's first gastropub
People say this was London's first gastropub. It's still one of the best examples I know - it combines the informality and comfortable feel of a pub (it has that scrubbed wooden floor, newspapers and mismatched wooden furniture look that all the chains are now trying to copy), with simple yet gourmet food very skillfully cooked. You can't reserve so it's a good plan to get there early and bagsy one of the tables by the window. There is an excellent choice of wines by the glass, and some nice beers on tap. Then you just look at the chalk boards to make your choice, and order at the bar. The food is modern European and based on good quality ingredients in imaginative combinations. Every meal I've had here was excellent: last time it was roast pheasant with polenta, but I've also had excellent grilled and roast fish, steaks, risottos and main course salads. Main courses usually come in at around a tenner.
This is definitely one of the types of eating England does best. A good place to take those cynical foreign visitors who think all British food is crap. Bring them here and watch them eat their words, hah.
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