The Three Horseshoes

So goes the saying - "well worth finding" and there is nothing more apposite than this when reviewing the Three Horseshoes.

London chef (ex Le Gavroche and the Connaught) Simon Crawshaw swapped the city for this pretty 18th-century pub in the Chilterns. Down narrow leafy lanes, with postcard views across rolling fields, it draws a mixed clientele of locals, hikers and foodies.

You open the latch door to find a bijou snug bar, with beams, flagstone floor and log fire. The restaurant is to the right and is simply furnished and lit leaving the real star to stand out - the food. A Bib Gourmand is always a clue that you're going to get above average tucker and this was massively above average.

Crawshaw cooks local produce in a simple way and presents you with exquisite flavours cooked with real talent. The homemade Ham Hock Terrine was tender and beautifully infused with herbs. Seared Sea Bass Fillet with Pesto Potato Puree, Confit of Aubergine and Cherry Tomatoes was cooked to perfection, just moistly flaking without falling apart, the Parmesan Rissoto with seared Tiger Prawns was a little parsimonious in serving size but faultless all the same.

The Crème Brulee was light, creamy and indulgent and the Chocolate Pudding with homemade Ginger Ice Cream positively sinful.

The beers from the local Rebellion Brewery were well kept, not an afterthought to a Gastro Pub, which was postive and the wine list was thoughtful with a wonderfully crisp Sancerre to boot.

If you're near Stokenchurch (M40 Jct 5) don't go to the usual ragbag of eateries there - drive 2 miles out into the middle of nowhere and discover something really special.

If you don't want to drive back, book a room - all four are done in Farrow & Ball colours, with plump down duvets, fluffy towels and Molton Brown toiletries in the tiled bathrooms.

Bliss...