6th February 2007
The Church of St Illy and the Blessed Cheesecake
If you're in Hereford and in need of a cup of tea and some peace and quiet, pop into All Saints Church. Yes, really. A million miles away from the mental image you're probably conjuring with right now - plastic chairs, Rich Tea biscuits, tea urn, right? - Cafe @ All Saints is actually a very modern take on an old idea: while the beautiful old church still holds services for the tiny congregation in the lady chapel, the rest of the arching, ancient space bustles with activity as an organic cafe, serving locally sourced products and main meals cooked on the premises. All the food is vegetarian, though meat-eaters won't really notice the lack, such is the variety and quality of the cooking: typical lunch time fare would be roast pumpkin, spinach and little Hereford (cheese) quiche or Field mushroom and Ale pie, with cheddar mash, all served with salad, potatoes or their famous 'health bowl' mixture of lentils, vegetables and herbs - much more delicious than the name would suggest and a light lunch on its own. Snacks, cakes and scones are also available, and after 4pm, prices drop to bargain levels. Until 11am, the best hot buttered toast in the area is only 40p a slice.
The vaulting overhead space has been sensitively exploited by installing a floating mezzanine, which makes a peaceful upper level in which to read or work, while enjoying the Illy coffee and a slice of homemade cake. Getting such an unusual perspective on church architecture along with your latte is a real bonus! Regular art exhibitions are also held in the church, and the kitchen holds more formal ticketed dinners, where three or four courses are offered, often to the accompaniment of music. The cafe is closed on Sunday, to allow full services to take place, but opens at 8.30am - 5.30pm weekdays and Saturdays.
It's not a place to go if you're in a rush - service can be idiosyncratic and somewhat slow, and queues often snake back into the street - but the atmosphere is restful and the surroundings are, naturally, beautiful. Staff know regulars by name, and there's a much more community feel to proceedings than in a faceless chain. Prices are reasonable, if not bargain basement: a large cappuccino is 1.85, brownies 1.60, a main course around the 6 mark. When so many churches are falling into disrepair, it's good to see one being kept alive in a sympathetic, yet practical manner.
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