8th May 2007
Brazzed off
Brazz has two faces. By day it is a staff caf for Assembly lobbyists and committee members and a pit stop for city visitors - drawn to the area by Cardiff's waterfront and award winning' architecture (the Senedd deserved its 2nd place in the 2006 Stirling Prize). By night the place resonates with the sounds of culture vultures here to feed on the latest WNO performance or West End road show and requiring food and water to sustain their expressions of approval. This duality is reflected in the dcor (wood, chrome and cloth screens with torn edges on the front and comfy sofas on the side) and the international' menu, and suggests Brazz is the offspring of an arranged marriage between a European Commission office restaurant and regional theatre caf bar.
The duck liver parfait with orange compote, Green bean and parmesan salad and Scottish smoked salmon starters are well prepared, but lack any local character. Likewise the mains that include Nioise vegetable risotto, Cod with pesto croquettes, Braised belly of pork and Calves liver with mash and onion could have been delivered that morning by any corporate caterer. The West county pork and leek sausages allude to an established and more respected older brother, based in Taunton.
Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the roasted skate wing with the capers and black butter, accompanied by a very drinkable chardonnay, and my lemon tart; although this could have been more to do with the relaxed conversation and my attractive company.
In my view the Bay has much better food to offer (at Woods, The Edge or Tides) and more personality and life at any of the shoreline bars, cafes or restaurants. Go there for the building, the views or for proximity to a show or the Assembly, but don't expect the food or place to stay long in the memory.
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