23rd May 2007
Graze
This is a lovely, little restaurant opened recently on the main thoroughfare between Brighton and Hove. It concept revolves around the taster menu, you get a little bit of each dish, not unlike Gordon Ramsay's Maze in Grosvenor Square. But the real clever bit is that it allows you to breakdown the menu into component parts. You can order the whole caboodle, or just individual dishes. In a way, this makes it a little like a gourmand's version of tapas, at least in style rather than culinary heritage which actually embraces the best in modern Anglo-French cooking. Anyway, the point is that you graze rather than gorge, hence the restaurant's name. My favourite is the rabbit risotto. The best wine one a well judged list is the German Villa Wolf Pinot Gris. Ah, and the owner's got a mohican.
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(3/3 found this review helpful)
