21st October 2007
Place Jemaa El Fna
Place Jemaa El Fna is the huge open space in the middle of Marrakech Medina (old town). It has a long history of being one of the biggest markets or meeting places not only in Africa, but the whole World. It's a kind of a hub.
All the guide books will tell you what you can find there: snake charmers, tooth pullers, sooth sayers, story tellers, orange juice on tap, beggars, performers, sightseers.
It's as much a fair for Moroccans as it is for international visitors.
You will get hassled there by vendors but it's not too bad. Agree prices first (before taking whatever is on offer). For example, the night market restaurant stalls are very aggressive and will drag you to a stall and hand you a menu which seems to have set prices but the price at end will be very different!
Cafe de France is a big building on one edge of the square (sorry can't remember which) having a terrific view of the square, from the roof terrace.
I like just sitting and watching on the ground floor or the terrace... on arrival you really do feel staggered. It's like you just arrived on a magic carpet, it looks so different.
Here I want to say something about being in Morocco... Shops and restaurants and Souks are one aspect but I loved best, meeting local people. I found Moroccans very communicative - that is open about what they are thinking and feeling (both agreeable and disagreeable opinions). This feels unlike British culture which has a general tendency to constrain openness and encourage reserve. With Moroccans it is possible to enjoy a relationship which has the feel that a more established friendship would feel like in the UK, more easily and spontaneously.
So, I would say, take the opportunity to converse with people! When I went on to Essaouira, a nearby seaside town, I spent lots of time with my 'landlady'. Even though she didn't speak French or English and I don't speak Arabic or Berber! I ended up meeting her neighbours and her sister's family and it was great.