Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder

peterkawerau

We've returned - and will return again. 11th February 2009

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We're Sydneysiders and first visited the Richmond Hill Cafe and Larder while in Melbourne for the 2008 Australian Open (tennis, not golf). Even though RHCL may no longer be owned by Stephanie Alexander (a doyenne of the Australian foodie scene) I believe the menu still carries some of her influences. More importantly, the food is clearly prepared by a highly competent kitchen brigade. Our first visit was memorable, so it was natural that we'd return this year during our next tennis escape.

When we arrived for brunch at about 11am on Sunday 1 February 2009, the place was packed. It has been the same scenario last year, and it seems the usual occurrence on weekends. After registering our details with the busy but affable manager, we went for a 15-minute walk while waiting for a table.

On returning, we were promptly seated at a table by the window. Menus were brought and drink orders taken. With both the breakfast and lunch menus available, there was almost too much choice. However my partner settled for the Bagdad Eggs. He'd had them last time and was looking forward to a repeat of their garlic, lemon, mint and cumin infused flavours - and was once again delighted.

I eventually settled for the "summer pea tart baked in butternut pumpkin pastry with a Waldorf salad with grapes, walnuts, shiso cress, apple cider dressing and RHCL
Chilli Jam. It proved to be a great choice for a hot day. The pumpkin in the crust gave depth to the taste of the pastry, while its pea filling was light yet mouth-filling. The crunch of the salad ingredients offered textural contrast together with a touch of acidity that provided balance to the taste of the peas. I ordered a glass of the Italian Soave (a good selection of domestic and imported wines available by the glass), which proved to be a good accompaniment.

While the place was busy, we were impressed by the quality of the service. Our waiter, Ben, was warm, friendly and efficient. He also had no trouble smiling and our various requests (such as for more time with the menu) didn't result in feeling pressured to make a quick decision - as is often the case in Sydney restaurants and cafes. His explanation of the cheeses on offer together with his recommendations, indicated food knowledge and enthusiasm not simply plate-carrying skills.

The other thing that makes RHCL stand out is that it offers menu choices that are out of the ordinary without being bizarre. There is often such a lazy sameness about breakfast and brunch menus from one cafe to the next. Sure, there are staples that people always want, but that touch of individuality is often missing.

The RHCL menu abounds with dishes that bring to mind the words "Mediterranean" "rural" and "rustic". For example, apart from the traditional breakfast fare of eggs and whatever, Bircher muesli and fresh fruits, choices include:

- Avocado on toasted organic sour dough, Meredith soft-feta, fresh chilli & mint dressing
- Catalan-style tomato toast with prosciutto and garlic
- Grilled cheesy toast with eggplant & chilli pickle
- Buttermilk pancakes served with blueberry sauce and warm lemon curd

Similarly, the brunch menu ranges from light to substantial and mixes more traditional offerings (such as an authentic-sounding Ceasar salad) with more adventurous fare. For example:

- Prawns with gremolata breadcrumbs, sauce tartare, blood orange and watercress salad
- Smoked river trout salad with fennel, red onion, cucumber, horseradish and chive creme fraiche
- Roasted Spring Lamb with butternut pumpkin, soft goat's cheese, toasted hazelnuts, mint and pomegranate.

The menu is extensive and there are also "specials" on a board.

We finished the meal with a selection of cheeses (two French, one Swiss) and my partner’s desire for just the sorbet component of a more complex dessert dish was met without fuss

In summary, this is a busy cafe that may lack a touch in ambiance (tables are close together and on our two weekend visits the place was packed) but for me that's not an issue for a casual lunch or brunch. I'd rather be somewhere that's filled with the sound of contented diners, than to find myself in an empty cavern.

I would thoroughly recommend RHCL to anyone who enjoys good quality food that's prepared interestingly and with thought. It's not cheap, but good food isn't – and it's certainly not over-priced.

Finally, there's also the Larder component of the business, which sells a large variety of RHCL branded preserves, condiments and other goodies, together with a substantial and inviting cheese room . We haven’t tried anything from the larder, but will do so when we return to Melbourne in June.

nicolavanlaar

Bustling Cafe, Fromagerie and Deli 19th August 2007

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I have recently learned that gastronomer Stephanie Alexander is no longer involved with the RHCL, which could go some way to explaining why I was a bit disappointed with our breakfast there, and had had such high expectations in the first place.

All my interactions with RHCL prior to our Sunday breaky over the phone from Sydney were excellent, and we knew we couldn't book and to be there before 9am to grab a table. We duly arrived, after another exciting adventure with Melbourne's taxi community (an orange Maxi Taxi this time dear readers), and no queue had formed out the door yet.

Is it just me, or do the Melb wait-industry have something to justify the attitude we received all weekend (excluding Italy 1)??? Yes, I do realise that 5 is an odd number to easily seat and we didn't do it on purpose! ;)

Our over-peroxided waiter huffed about us taking up the 8-seater bench table, when a booking was due to ocme in at 10:30am, and we assured him we would be gone by then as we had lots to do and planes to catch home.

After heeding his warning, we had to wait ages to place coffee orders, which seemed an anathema to us! I ordered the rich real hot chocolate ($5) in the Nougat flavour and was told 'sorry it was not available' only after everyone else had received their coffees and juices. Again holding them up time-wise.

The meals came out quickly enough. Philippa had the Bircher Muesli (quite nice and creamy). Lisa had the pancakes with cardamon/clove spiced pears (a bit much) and blood orange curd (delish). Cassandra had the avocado, goats cheese, chilli, mint on toast with a side of bacon (excellent and easy to recreate). Tamara had the fruit toast and the coriander corn fritters (a bit doughy and not very corriandery) with smoked salmon. I had a croissant with the RHCL orange chocolate reduction and just bacon and mushrooms on toast.

Overall, really good produce, a great buzzy cafe vibe, good coffee, but let down by the service. So we didn't linger to shop in the fromagerie, deli or look at the books.

www.rhcl.com.au